Im thinking of trying to replace the bulbs only. Placing them in my origanal indictors. Some LED bulbs have 100 plus tiny lights in them. i will also get the LED indicator relay As i read they wont work properly without the LED relay. Its only a thought as yet. If i go ahead i will make a report. PS: the length of the bulb maybe a problem.
-- Edited by Markvan on Monday 9th of December 2013 06:15:34 AM
-- Edited by Markvan on Tuesday 28th of March 2017 02:16:55 AM
-- Edited by Markvan on Tuesday 20th of February 2018 04:40:15 AM
-- Edited by Markvan on Tuesday 20th of February 2018 04:42:08 AM
My original set work fine in a dimly lit garage or on a dull overcast day. Theres alot of bright blue sky days here and when ridding into the sun approching round abouts i like to think that the other vehicals can see my indication as easily as possible. The old hand signals work great, but as half way through a corner , braking , useing the clutch , motor cars all aroung you , i like to keep both hands on the handle bars. Its dog eat dog on roundabouts , if they dont see your indication they will shoot out when you have the right of way. its abit of customising my bike i guess. But my main concern is saftey...... Thanks Jarrah , i wil look into that relay.
Simply question, how do I completely remove the rear indicators on my bike (2004 TTR-250)
I don't want to ruin any of the electrics so I have to be sure. I removed the brackets and the indicators are now dangling from the wire. What do I do next?
Thanks, sounds simple enough, I will have a go at it in the morning.
The luggage rack I have just installed is restricting the indicators so I'm forced to remove them. I'm going to have to upgrade to some aftermarkets ones... something I've been wanting to do anyway.
I've found rubber tubes that you suggested where the connectors it looks like this http://i.imgur.com/WT8nhPg.jpg kind of. So I just pull from one end to disconnect them?
As for the the other ones I am kind of confused, do I need to take the headlight out? Sorry I'm not the most mechanically minded person, I'm trying to learn though.
See here wires running along the frame of the bike http://i.imgur.com/b5h9oFa.jpg
I have had a search through my photos and these are the best that I can find to show where the bullet connectors are and what the look like. The pics show the RH connectors but it will be easy enough to look the other side for the LH ones
If you follow the wiring from the indicators they will be the first connectors you find.
I found them! Yes! Thank you so much, you're a legend my friend.
While looking for them I've discovered more of the wire coiled and zip tied out of the way. This extra length of wire is enough to let my original indicators sit where I need them to be with the rack mounted. I ordered LED indicators last night before I went to bed so now that I know how to remove the old ones we'll be in business.
I have a suspicion that the coiled up wire is probably for a number plate light so won't help you with the indicators. What colour are the wires on it?
On a WR250R I bought, the indicators flashed too quickly as the LEDs in the Zeta handguards don't have sufficient resistance. I ordered up a pair of resistors from eBay and they arrived in time (from China) for me to fit them whilst I was finishing off sorting out fitting some Dakar handlebars.
Fitting the resistors was very hit and miss until I was informed that LEDs are polarity conscious which explained a lot. Up until that point, I just couldn't understand why the LEDs would work one minute and not the next - wasted ages on that
The pic below shows one of the resistors wired in.
The instructions with the resistors said they needed to be fitted to a metal backing to help dissipate heat. I am a bit sceptical about that as they already have a big heat sink but I have zip tied them to the fork leg just in case!
There are a lot of wires involved but I think the installation looks fairly tidy.
Job done!
I would imagine that the work would be almost identical on the TTR so I hope that helps.
Suitable for L.E.D indicator lamps. Operates at ultra low current of 1mA (0.02 watts) or higher currents to a maximum of 2.5 amps per side (30 watts) where a mix of L.E.D and incandescent globes might be used
NB: Use in L.E.D lamp applications as a direct replacement for P/No. 68213BL
Not to step on your toes Brian but if you use the Halogen 3-pin relay pictured in your post above, you will either need to cut the original wiring and fit connectors, or make a special 2 pin plug with two female spade connectors and fit it to the wiring loom and relay. When you try to plug the relay into the wiring harness you will see what I mean as it will not plug in. One of the 3-pins would not be used (unless fitting additional indicators) so it seems pointless to use a 3-pin relay anyway.
If using the 2-pin relay mentioned in the link I left (pictured below), it is plug-and-play. All you would need to do is plug it in and fit the rubber holder to the relay (as fitted standard).
With something like this (pictured below), the only problem would be that the rubber will not fit around the relay to hold it. A bolt or a few cable ties would sort that though-
As you can see from the picture below, the TTR250 uses the same connector block as above, unlike the WR that uses a three pin relay with male spade connectors (as pictured in Brian's post above).
Your not stepping on my toes Jarrah. As I said in my post, the information was from another owner's thread and I did point out that I hadn't investigated it myself.
It's great that you have done the research and that you are able to recommend appropriate relays. Much easier than buying and fitting the resistors as I did
Is it best I delete all reference to the 68251BL? That would seem sensible.
Brian
Yes and no Brian. It does work if you have a spare connector block lying around but the wiring schematics is not as per the diagram. As mentioned, one of the 3-pins would not be used (unless fitting additional indicators). In other words, the ''pilot'' pin in the diagram would not be used.
In theory the Yamaha R1 relay will work Brian, the only problem that I can see is that the power feed from the battery may be on the wrong side of the Yamaha R1 plug (not likely). This would be easily overcome by taking the connectors out from the connector block and switching the wires around. To do this- the connector has a release tab down one side of it. Release the tab with the small screwdriver by pushing it down the one side of connector and push the connector out gently. Sometimes all that is needed is just to release the release tab and it comes out without gentle persuasion.
Just a side note for owners with the older 1993~1999 Open Enduro models- these bikes are brought out with a 3-pin relay that needs an earth/ground. They still use the same connector block but have an extra connector that goes to ground. However, by rights you wont have any trouble as the newer 1999~2013 2-pin relay does not need a ground/earth, therefore it will work.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Got the LED bulbs. Think there is 102 tiny LED bulbs in them , (they arnt any brighter ) but i guess i wont have a blown bulb for ten years and the power usage is alot less. Also got a cheap LED flasher on ebay From China. 3 bucks. Bulbs 8 bucks a pair. With the Led Flasher i had to cut and change the connecter plug to fit. Bulbs only just fit into original yamaha indicators , the two phillips head screws had to be removed so i could angle the new Led bulb in.
Also got a LED pilot light bulb Which isnt as bright as the orginal bulb. tottal cost was $20. All from china. Not much really but i wouldnt do it again as no real improvement.
Interesting thread this, so thought I might add my 3 penneth to it
I couldn't find the relay in Jarrah's poat apart from on the Aussie ebay site, but I did find a 2 pin relay that purported to be a replacement for the Yam relay but suitable for LED operation. It didn't work at all
Plus, it turns out that my relay has 3 PINS so Brian's would have been a good idea to start with.
Having missed Brian's post for some reason though, I bought a 3 pin "flasher relay" with the correct fitting, but which had an extra wire connected with a connector on theend designed to be screwed on somewhere, but I couldn't get that to work either
So I then bought a 3 pin "flasher" relay similar to the one in Brian's post, but that didn't work either !!!!!
Total cost so far, about £15
Finally, I bought some resistors. They say you might need one per lamp, so I bought 4, total cost £6.38. fitting one to each side at the rear sorted the job out, and I have a couple of spare's
It has 3 pins but the one does nothing, the earth wire needs connecting and it fits to the original mounting rubber. A led instrument panel bulb is also needed
Hi Guys, I am currently unable to get a warrant of fitness for my bike to ride it on the road as they say the signals flash too fast. The bike (2006 TTR250) has original indicators on the front and LED retro fitted ones on the rear.
I am being told that the addition of the Led's has caused the flasher to respond in this manner.
Ok, so I buy an IC Flasher relay. it has 3 wires , ground (black) , yellow (battery) red (to signals). There are only 2 wires that plug into the original relay a brown and a brown with white strip. So I connect the ground connect the battery and plug the red into the brown with the red strip and wa la it bloody worked and slowed the indicator speed down however it also made the green indicator light on the dash stay illuminated. Tried it on the other wire and it made my head light and tail light flash so obviously not that one.
Before I had the chance to try to connect it in conjunction with the original flasher unit I accidentally touched the red to the body of the bike and she sparked and fried my $35 relay before I had a chance to try it in conjunction with the original relay. Before I rush out and buy another IC flasher relay.......
This is the question - Do you need to run it in conjunction with the original one? I am going to guess yes but was wondering if anyone can confirm it for me.
I have used the simpler solution of adding resistors as shown in the thread and they work fine. It took me a while to realise that LED bulbs are polarity conscious
Thanks for your help guys. This relay purchased from my local Yamaha shop did the trick. Removed the stock flasher and connected this one up the RIGHT way this time. Was easy Yellow to Brown, (battery) Red to Brown/white (signals), Black ground.
Sorted.
-- Edited by TTRfan on Wednesday 6th of May 2015 08:55:10 AM
its me again the not so bright guy from montana. I bought some led flush mount turn lights for the back of my 2006 us model. i have power from my aftermarket turn switch/horn/hi /low beam on my handle bar. so my front light works. my tail lights light up when i flip the switch either right or left. but i cant make them blink. i bought a led flasher unit, round unit with two leads on it. i wired it inbetween connections and it wont flash, and barely lights up. is there a way to make a bike without stock turn lights work? i have researched online, but to no avail.
Hey team, just resurrecting the dead thread here - neither of the plug and play relay links above work. Anyone have a link to one that doesn't require rewiring? I've got some spare led bulbs in the shed so I thought why not? ;)
There are obviously others you can get for cheaper, but i have a set of these on my TTR to control my micro led indicators. Just need to tuck them away with some cable ties.
Replaced my two front bulbs with 10w led chips off eBay
super bright - solder the wires on and silicon in there - the brightest flashers I’ve ever seen possibly even annoying
will need resistors or a new flasher can before I do the back ones my only concern is they may be too bright at night but I don’t go out at night. prob why I’m happy with my 12w led super bright headlight
received my resistors today i plugged them into the front indicators and they now flash ok , good result and close to original and no need for rear resistors as well the dash indicator works as normal .
the resistors were pretty cheap and i had to solder the terminal connections as they were only just on , maybe a more expensive set would be better quality but im happy with them
I have this idea that resistors are tiny and that it should be possible to make your own for the LED indicators - its knowing what the value of the resistor needs to be I guess.
We must throw away quite a few resistors with any defunct electronic gear.....
Found this https://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/resistor_color_code.php
The Yamaha R6 led flasher unit finally arrived it’s a straight pug in and works well still needs the two resistors on the front (a bit slower than the original with leds/resistors close to spot on )
would also be a good plug and play repacment for the original not bad for $3.00 on eBay
-- Edited by ttboof on Wednesday 27th of December 2017 07:14:26 AM
Just fitted some flush mount rear LED indicators today and noticed the fast flash issue (the fronts are still original). I take it the inline resistors discussed solved the issue? What resistance is required?
Just fitted some flush mount rear LED indicators today and noticed the fast flash issue (the fronts are still original). I take it the inline resistors discussed solved the issue? What resistance is required?
Cheers
Cam.
I fitted these on top of the headlight bracket (bluey) one end of the resistor to indicator positive and other end of resistor to earth one for each side (my phone puts pictures in upside down sorry ) heads up the headlight bracket isn’t earthed it’s rubber mounted
50 watt 8 ohm are spot on main thing is 8ohm resistor no Lower than 20watt or the resistor gets a bit hot
-- Edited by ttboof on Tuesday 20th of February 2018 08:40:09 AM