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Brian's 350 build
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My 350 kit 2.jpg

I have a 350 kit in my sticky mitts now and am really grateful to Simon (mossproof) who did all the hard work on getting the barrels cast and machined, the special pistons and gaskets made and building and testing the very first TTR350 in the world - cheers mate!  See here.

I have a good starting point for the build. I bought a set of empty cases from a respected member of the TTR community back in 2012 and squirrelled them away for a project and their time has now come! The engine is from a TTR that lived in Jersey and has only done 4,000 miles so the cases are in great condition and I am thinking that I will be able to re-use the bearings.

20200204_100222.jpg

I have split the cases and carefully stored the Allen bolts using a piece of card marked with their positions as shown on the right of the following photo.

20200204_101821.jpg

20200204_102936.jpg

A bit of bad luck occurred trying to remove the cross-headed bolt used to hold in the clutch actuating lever with an impact driver. The bit broke off in the bolt head no  I am pretty sure that it isn't possible to buy individual replacement bits - unless anyone knows of a source?  (EDIT - the impact driver was a kit from Halfords on a life-time guarantee and, bless their cotton socks, they replaced the broken bit for me FOC smile)

20200204_102119.jpg 

Next up is to clean up the cases and thoroughly de-greasing them. Trish is out all day tomorrow so I will have unsupervised access to the oven biggrin 

My intention is to heat the cases up in the oven, as I have done in the past, and hope most of the bearings fall out.

I just hope that I don't leave the oven smelling of burnt oil as happened the last time! disbelief

Brian



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They just don't understand, like when I clean my air cleaners in the sink !!!!!

How will the TTR350 stack up against the WR250R & or the White & red TT350, always liked the 350, I even wanted a red & black XL350 at one stage, later when I had a XR250RC my mate had a XR350 disc on the front & drum rear.

Used to be a few 350's on the market, I had a XR400 before the TTR & great engine & plenty of power but a handful.

Good luck with the build & will be interested in the ride report when it hits the road

Rds Terry

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4th Feb 2020 5.jpg

Darn it - broke the bit in my spare impact driver as well no I think the actuating lever is just going to have to stay where it is!

I have removed the transmission and gear change oil seals and will fit new in due course.

Terry - you sowed a seed there talking about cleaning parts in the sink! Despite a thorough clean in TFR, the casings still felt greasy and, to make sure I don't stink the oven out tomorrow, I have put the casings in the dishwasher on "extreme" cycle whilst TRish is out collecting the grandson from school smile

4th Feb 2020 6.jpg

I decided to use a trusted m/c engineer to bore my cases and his workshop isn't too far away. I called him this morning and, following a heart attack, he is now only working three days a week so I am not confident I am going to get my cases done any time soon. 

Brian



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Trish is out visiting today so am taking full advantage! 

I am preparing engine casings to take to Dave Massam for boring out for the 350 barrel.

So as not to stink the oven up (as happened last time I did it which got me into a bit of trouble), the cases have been through the dishwasher with extra tablets on an extreme cycle and came out a treat!

They then went in the oven at 200C for 20 minutes.  5 out of the 8 bearings dropped out easily, a couple needed a tap with a punch and one needed treatment with the internal bearing puller with slide hammer (didn't need much effort as the casing was still stinking hot!).

5th Feb 2020 1.jpg 

5th Feb 2020 2.jpg 5th Feb 2020 3.jpg

 

The trouble is that, despite looking squeaky clean, there was oil hiding in the bearing housings and the oven and kitchen now stink of burning oil no  I have left the oven and kitchen doors open and hope it goes away before Trish gets home!

So, the crankcases have been cleaned and screwed back together ready for boring. I managed to get the stubborn clutch actuating shaft retaining screw out by persuading it loose with a hammer and sharp cold chisel biggrin

 5th Feb 2020 4.jpg

Anyways up, now to get my pile of filthy oily gloves and put them through the washing machine. What could possibly go wrong?  confusebiggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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Whilst the cases are away being bored, I thought it just as well to organise the bearings and seals I would need for the rebuild. I am sure that I don't really need to replace all the bearings but, as this may be the last TTR engine I build, I am going overboard just a bit smile

The following information shouldn't be used for your own ordering purposes without checking as I cannot be held responsible for anyone ordering the wrong parts.

As I said, I may not have got this 100% correct but if Dan, Steve or Simon (who recently built their 350s) could possibly have a check through it would be greatly appreciated! smile

This first table shows the cost of the bearings and seals from your friendly Yamaha parts supplier - or Totally TTRs:

Bearings    NumberInc. VAT
Balancer bearings93306-30211was 93306-302102£50.92
Transmission output93306-20529  1£22.08
Transmission inside brg93306-20332  1£24.23
Layshaft inside brg93306-20447was 93306-204271£32.51
Layshaft o/s brg93306-00320  1£28.12
Main bearings93306-37807was 93306-378022£124.54
     Total£282.40
Seals      
Gear change oil seal93102-14209  1£6.32
Transmission shaft oil seal93102-25218was93102-252261£11.53
     Total£17.85

 

This is what the equivalent Koyo bearings would cost from Simply Bearings:

BearingsNumber      inc VAT
Balancer bearings2KOYO 6302 Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 15x42x13mm  £11.52
Transmission output1KOYO 6205 Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 25x52x15mm  £6.76
Transmission inside brg1KOYO 62032RS Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm £6.42
Layshaft inside brg1KOYO 62/22-KOY Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 22x50x14mm £18.55
Layshaft o/s brg1KOYO 60032RS Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x35x10mm £6.28
Main bearings2All Balls kit - 63/28 C3     £36.00
       Total£85.52
Seals        
Gear change oil seal 14x26x6mm Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R21 / SC£2.27
Transmission shaft oil seal 25x40x6mm Nitrile Rubber Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring R23 / TC£2.27
       Total£4.54

 

When looking up the bearing equivalents on the Simply Bearings website, I was offered the equivalent sized bearings with a "C3" reference at the same price. I rang them to ask what this meant and was told that if a bearing was going to run extremely fast and hot then these bearings were built with more clearances so could expand and not seize. I explained the application and he didn't give an opinion on whether C3 bearings would be needed and said to check the old bearing references. Having done that I can't find any with a C3 designation.

BUT, having checked my parts bin, I found a Yamaha dealer supplied bearing 93306-20427 with the Koyo reference 62/22-9C3 on (see below) so I am now a bit stumped. Also, the original main bearings are referenced 63/28-3 so does the "3" on the end mean they are C3?

So, do we need C3 bearings or not? If we do, is it all the gearbox bearings or just some of them? Anyone know please?

62-22-9C3 bearing.jpg

Brian

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

After doing some more research, I found much better prices for the well known brand of SKF bearings from BearingsRUs. They didn't stock an SKF 62/22 but had a Koyo one available so I included that:

Number      inc VAT
2SKF 6302 Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 15x42x13mm  £6.60
1SKF 6205 Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 25x52x15mm  £3.88
1SKF 62032RS Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x40x12mm £3.68
1KOYO 62/22-KOY Open Deep Groove Ball Bearing 22x50x14mm  £7.80
1SKF 60032RS Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 17x35x10mm £3.60
      Total£25.56

 

 



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I have just got back from dropping the cases and barrel off to Dave Massam for boring. He said definitely use C3 on main and camshaft bearings. He uses C3 bearings in all his engine builds but standard ones in gearboxes. Of course, on the TTR the engine and gearbox share their oil so not sure that helped! He says the C3 only gives microns more clearance.

Dave is an old school motorcycle engine and refuses to touch anything Chinese, preferring old Brit bikes - the older the better. Fortunately, he is happy to do work for me on TTRs such as rebores. However, I don't think my case boring is going to be quick and simple as he wants to true everything up perfectly before boring so I need to visit again taking my engine stand and a pair of old main bearings. He is going to put a shaft through the old bearings to get things perpendicular and use the stand to level the cases up. I was also asked what "fit" I wanted for the barrel in the cases, a drop down fit, a snug fit, or a tight fit that might mean using some "persuasion" biggrin 

I don't think mine is going to be the £30 job that Steve, Simon and Dan had done no

Brian

PS The good news is that the All Balls main bearing kit that Steve sells here includes two Koyo C3 bearings - and its cheaper - result! biggrinbiggrin

All Balls main bearing.jpg

PPS C3 explained!

C3 explained.JPG



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Checked my local bearing guy.  Said straight up c3 for the crank/engine  gearbox OK with standard 

Best bet if the original is c3 replace with c3

 

He said some older bike engines run a c4  due to clearances changing with temp 

 

 



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Thanks Les. That agrees with my guy's opinion - C3 bearings for engine and standard bearings OK for gearbox wink

That means for the TTR, only the main bearings need to be C3 (as supplied in the All Balls kit).

With regard to non-OEM bearings, I think we have had a discussion about different makes of bearings before but it would be good to update.

I have priced KOYO bearings from Simply Bearings in my chart in my earlier post but am aware that there are many other options available such as SKF, FAG, NSK, etc. The same non-Koyo bearings can be obtained from elsewhere, such as Bearingsrus.co.uk, for half the price - about £40, which is a lot of difference! 

Anyone have any thoughts on that? I haven't placed my order yet wink 

PS My mate who had a Huskagiva-DT said his C4 bearings were horrendously expensive! Good that we don't have any of those in our TTRs biggrin



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I picked up my crankcases earlier today from Dave Massam after they have been bored to take the 350 barrel/sleeve.

He took great care to make sure that the bore was perpendicular to the centre line of the crankshaft. He did this by re-fitting the old pair of main bearings and turning down some rod to fit through them from which he could set up his his boring bar. It means that anyone else needing this done can take advantage of this as the bar is now ready to be used again biggrin

He also wasn't happy with the finish on Mr Yamaha's casings as there was a lip where the cases join. This is common on TTRs as the cases seem to be machined where the barrel sits without being bolted together. The base gasket takes this up but my guy wasn't happy with that so faced them off giving the base gasket the best possible chance of sealing wink

I was charged £60 because Dave had to make up the bar which took a bit of time.

Also, I think it took him longer to set the cases up as it was the first time doing it on a TTR.

He said any further case borings would be cheaper now he had the bar made and knew the best way to set the cases up wink

Dave is Rolls Royce trained and is a master of his craft. He pretty much chooses what work he does and he is never short of it with a row of engines there waiting on his attentions. I was happy with the charge and honestly thought it would be a lot more.  £60 because he had to make up the bar which took a bit of time.

Also, I think it took him longer to set the cases up as it was the first time doing it on a TTR.

He said any further case borings would be cheaper now he had the bar made and knew the best way to set the cases up wink

Dave is Rolls Royce trained and is a master of his craft. He pretty much chooses what work he does and he is never short of it with a row of engines there waiting on his attentions. I was happy with the charge and honestly thought it would be a lot more. He was working on an Ariel Square Four engine today

The crankcases will have to be thoroughly cleaned to clear any remaining swarf from the boring.

I have all the new bearings for inside, a rebuilt crankshaft (with new big-end bearing and conrod) and a new sprag ready to fit. I now need to take the guts out of a spare engine to get the gearbox parts etc wink

Progress!

 

Crankcases bored out.jpg



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Sounds complicated! Should have cost a bit more I suspect, but he sounds like the sort of guy who wouldn't be able to do a half assed job if his life depended on it, so he's not penalising you for his OCD
Got Tiddler's cases back today too. The race is on...

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Looking good Brian nice job on them cases keep the build stuff coming

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Ouch

hope your back gets better soon.

My cases cost £40, but done in the darkest depths of North Devon, nothing like your man Bri, sounds like he knows his stuff  and charges accordingly.



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Forty quid at Nametab Engineering in Redditch

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I have made a small amount of progress today until my back told me to give up cry

I have cleaned the remaining swarf out of cases and removed the main bearings that had been re-fitted to assist the boring process.

I also dug out the cylinder head that I had put back for the project many moons ago and stripped it down. Cams and journals look fine but I need to clean up the valves and valve seats before I know if they need anything more than lapping in.

I try to be methodical and like to put valves, springs and cam buckets back in their original homes hence the use of my little foam cutout tray on the right of the photo below. The green milk bottle top holds the collets.

For anyone new to stripping down a head, it is likely that you will only be able to remove the two cylinder head bolts that are on the RH (inside) of the head. The LH (outside) washers tend to stick stubbornly in place - and I usually let them stay there!

Checking and rebuilding the head can be a tad time consuming but its where the important work of the engine is done so it's worth taking your time. And I quite enjoy the job wink

I wouldn't normally bother but I think for the 350 I may make sure the inlet stub blends into the head and the ridge on the exhaust port is ground out. My slight concern is that, talking to my engineer who has decades of experience (in mostly Brit bikes it has to be said), he recalls Gold Star owners doing the inlet blending and mucking up the carburation as the step was built in by the BSA factory to encourage turbulence and a better fuel/air mixture! confuse

Cylinder head stripdown.jpg



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I suspect that was BSA's excuse for not having designed the inlet tract properly in the first place. Times have changed! I would definitely match the ports to the stub and header, but wouldn't do any polishing unless you're going to do a bit of gas flowing.

"Drop down" or easy sliding fit is fine for the barrel/cases fit. It's just a hole after all, and the dowels locate it. Never noticed the step in the base gasket surface before, but Tiddler's engine has it too.

I have to admit I don't understand all the bearing and centralizing bar malarkey. The base gasket surface should be a good enough datum - if not, Yamaha made a huge ****up (bigger than BSA's!!), and as I say, it's just a hole. Bolt the cases to the tilt bed of the mill, level it up using the base gasket surface as a datum, centralize the hole, and mill away. The head bolt dowels are what line everything up, not the sleeve. Still, I'm glad it's back on your bench.

Hope the back improves soon,

Simon

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There is a saying that "The first step is always the hardest" and I reckon that's very true.

So I pulled out the TTR this morning and started to strip out the engine ready to fit the 350 (when I have built itdisbelief) - so that's the hardest part done eh? biggrinbiggrin

Very muggy here in SW UK this morning so am not rushing. The existing 325cc engine has a new home lined up for it which is good!

Whilst the TTR is immobile, I will take the opportunity to drain the tank and let it breathe for a while before fitting new decals. Note to self - check you still have some decals to fit!

The powder coated frame is as good as when it was done and I would certainly recommend it as a finish if anyone is doing a frame up resto.

I am sure there will be lots of other little jobs to do as the strip down and rebuild progresses wink

Engine out1.jpeg



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Many years ago (if not more!), TTR Steve and I removed and replaced his TTR engine and got the bike running in just over an hour.

Today it took me from about 10am (with a break for lunch) until now just to get an engine out evileye

I am definitely slowing down disbelief

Now the slightly easier, but still time consuming, job of cleaning the bike and the engine unit up smile

Engine out 2.jpg



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I managed to clear a big enough space in the shed to start on the build. I even hoovered the carpet biggrin

Firstly I wanted to make sure I got everything.

Bored crankcases - check, barrel & piston - check, gasket set - check, rebuilt crankshaft - check, donor gearbox/side cases/stator/etc - check, cylinder head on bench (work in progress) - check.

I just have this feeling that I am missing something confuse  Ah yes, the set of gearbox bearings - now where did I safely store them away!

Ready to go.jpg



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Clean floor is important - so you can find the tiny bits when they go ping!
Good luck Brian. Make a preparatory cuppa and set-to!

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Quite right Simon! Also, it is much nicer working in a clean and tidy environment smile

Having tidied the bench, I cracked on with the head. I recall starting to match the inner walls of the inlet stub and cylinder head so set about that job first. 

Easy enough to do. Bolt up the inlet stub and use a marker pen on any protruding surface on the head.

I then used my Dremel with a straight burr to take off the metal. There was also a casting ridge on the inlet stub which I removed. 

The set of small burrs I bought from eBay (China I think?) are amazing and I have to be careful not to take off to much metal as they are so sharp!

Matching inlet stub 1.jpg  Matching inlet stub 3.jpg

Matching inlet stub 2.jpg

Finally, I bolted up the inlet stub again and made sure all the inner walls now "matched" biggrin

The exhaust valves were a little more pitted than I liked but I was lucky to have two spares lurking around that I had gotten recut several years ago so I now have 4 good straight valves to grind in. Some friends dropped by and stopped work so that'll be my first job tomorrow. 

I have got a new set of valve stem oil seals from Steve and I need to check the valve springs are within specification before putting it all back together.

Brian



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I have finished cleaning and rebuilding the cylinder head. New valve stem oil seals fitted and valves lapped in. Valve clearances also set although they will be checked again when the head is on the engine - just in case. With various interruprions and an MOT issue on the car to sort out it has, as always, taken much longer than expected. The head is in my spray booth (cardboard box on a swivel chair biggrin) awaiting a final coat of aerosol spray. But it's a relatively time consuming job nearly out the way.

So, I  got the bored-out crankcases on the bench and checked that I have all the correct new bearings and oil seals - and I have - phew! I am lucky to have a spare pair of cases with bearings still fitted so I could compare. I must remember to take a seal out of one side of the layshaft bearing!

Spare crankcases showing bearing without seal:

Old gearbox bearings.jpg

 

Crankcases with new bearings ready to fit. They are still in their wrappers as they will be going in the freezer now.

New gearbox bearings.jpg

 

I spent quite a bit of time inspecting and thoroughly cleaning the crankcases inc the bearing housings and putting a thread cleaner down all the casing threads. It may be worth mentioning that it is important to check that the head bolt threads are clean and, particularly the front outside one. I have had an issue before where I blew a couple of head gaskets before I realised the bolt was binding in the hole before fully tightening down. I have indicated the culprit in the photo below.

Head bolt issue.jpg

 

I am thinking that, rather than tick off Trish by using "her" oven, I might use the gas BBQ to heat the crankcases before fitting the bearings a la Allen Millyard.

So far so good!

 



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I dug out the donor engine from which I am going to use the gearbox internals, stator, flywheel assembly and clutch/generator covers - a bit of displacement activity before fitting the gearbox bearings!

Donor engine.jpg

I won't bore you with the dismantling as I have shown it many times before but, learning from previous errors/omissions, here are a couple of top tips!

Tie the washers on the clutch change mechanism and Gear 3 as in the following photos! Long-standing members will recall me finding a washer after buttoning up an engine which, after careful research, turned out to have been left out from under the clutch change mechanism cry Retro fitting it involved quite a bit of preventable work!

Gear change washer.jpg Gear 3 washer.jpg

 

Another top tip is to use a bit of cardboard and punch holes in it to keep the case bolts safe and in their correct positions thus making refitting so much easier wink

Case bolts.jpg

 

Crankcases split on the donor engine ready to transfer the gearbox to the 350 once I have fitted the new bearings. I will leave removing the crankshaft until I have moved the gears over as I have a rebuilt one to use in the 350 and turning over the casing to push it out will disturb the placement of the gears which I don't want to happen. I want to make the job as easy as possible!

Donor gearbox internals.jpg



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Looking good Brian. You're on a roll now.

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Looking good Brian, I guess no one is telling the rego that it's increased to 350cc, higher rego & possible inspection required.

Back in the 80's it was common to fit a 305cc kit to the XL250S & XR250's but were still on the books as a 250cc

Terry

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Of course I will tell the DVLA and my insurance company Terry smile

Trish was happy for me to use her oven to heat the crankcases so, after retrieving the bearings from the freezer, the bearings were soon fitted and the crankcases ready to receive the crankshaft and gear cluster. 

Bearings fitted.jpg

 

I was lucky to be able to transfer the gear cluster and shift mechanism across as a unit so that saved a lot of fiddling about with the shift forks!

Gears and crank fitted.jpg

It's been a long time since I built an engine from the bottom up and I admit to making a couple of schoolboy errors this time (e.g. starting to build the gearbox etc in the RH case which means it's difficult to line up the balancer gear dots etc) so have stopped for a cuppa and am doing a spot of revision by reading my own guide thumbsup.gifthumbsup.gif

The cases went together easily and its all buttoned up ready to hang the rest of the parts on. It's now the fun starts wink 

I realised that I had broken my low range torque wrench a way back so have just used Amazon to buy a 1/4 drive bicycle one which I hope will be accurate as it has a 5-25Nm range. 10Nm is the most used setting on the TTR. I have a 1/2 drive one for the bigger nuts and bolts.

Buttoned up.jpg

 Clutch side parts fitted but can't finish until I have fitted the clutch actuating arm, rod and ball bearing but that'll have to wait until tomorrow wink

Clutch side nearly complete.jpg



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Plenty of progress Brian, not sure my wife would let use the oven or the dishwasher for bike parts....only joking about the rego !!!! common practice here to turn a KLR250 to a 300cc with a different barrel...I know at least 4 that have been done by the dealers but still got 250cc rego.

Cheers Terry

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Spot the deliberate mistake!

Mistake.jpg



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Where is the other timing chain guide that needs to be in place before assembly?? 



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Jeff B wrote:

Where is the other timing chain guide that needs to be in place before assembly?? 


Nope! I forgot to put the stator lead in its slot necessitating taking the cover off again to reposition it disbelief 

It was soon sorted smile

PS The other guide goes in after the barrel is fitted wink

Sorted.jpg



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Didn't get to spend a lot of time in the workshop today but made some progress.

The first job was to prepare the barrel and piston.

The barrel had been cast very well and I only had to file off a couple of small nibs before giving it a wash in warm soapy water prior to spraying. Washing the bore was something I was advised many years ago - who by I can't remember - and it is to remove the last traces of carbide or tungsten particles left by the honeing process else they will carry on honeing as you run the engine.

Similarly Wossner says their pistons "should be cleaned with warm soapy water and dried before installation". Not done that before with any piston but as I had warm soapy water already in the workshop sink, it would have been rude not to. biggrin  Every day is a school day!

So, piston rings were fitted and spaced on the piston, the small end and the gudgeon pin suitably oiled and fitted - not forgetting to cover the crankcase in case a circlip tried to escape downward.

I must have a grumble at the design of the circlip which I accept are the same as the standard Yamaha ones but I find them quite difficult to fit. Is there a trick I don't know about? Some are made with "ears" that you can grip with a set of long-nosed pliers.

Piston fitted.jpg 

Compressing the rings to fit the barrel can be dangerous I found evileye I rubbed one of my fingers along a ring to push it inward and was rewarded with quite a deep cut and loads of blood disbelief

Dangerous work.jpg

Anyways up, the barrel and head are now fitted and torqued down so I think I am on the homeward straight and might finish up tomorrow. I have had to order some parts from Steve - a special long blanking bolt for the oil feed inside the clutch cover coz I am fitting an oil cooler, a Gold Plug to replace the standard sump plug and an oil filter. 

So this is what the engine looks like tonight:

Head on.jpg 



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Ouch

Now I have copied this from earlier post for carb reference ( though I have a shorty header)

My Bike is running 147 / 54 and needle on the bottom clip.

One-off exhaust (free flowing) (ran perfect on standard jetting))

Standard header pipe.

No Air box mods, with Twin Air filter.

Bike runs between 10.9 and 12.5 on the air fuel meter, between tick over and full running. 

More importantly it feels bang on, no flat spots, no over run bangs or popping, just pulls perfect all over the rev range.

Hope that helps.

Steve

 



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Brian, spot on with cleaning the barrel after being machined, wash & spray or oil straight up as rust will form pretty quick

Terry

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My parts arrived from Steve on Saturday morning - brilliant service as usual - thanks Steve!

So, in addition to many other new parts, my 350 now has a new Gold Plug magnetic sump plugoil cooler blanking plug and mesh oil filter

Anyone who has fitted a TTR engine into a frame only to find the clutch arm wedged the wrong side of the frame rail will realise why I have wired it up biggrin 

Anyways up, I think I have done all I need to before the engine goes back in. Just got to remember to put oil in! I haven't done so far as I want to keep the weight down as best I can as I know I am going to struggle as it is. I might try and rope in a second pair of hands to fit it confuse

LH side engine built.jpg RH side engine built.jpg

I now know that I won't need the left over parts so they will be heading to Steve to put in the shop soon. There will be a good pair of 4PX crankcases along with lots of other bits biggrin

I guess I had better get the new decals on the tank and clean the frame ready to take the engine - what else would I be doing eh?  wink



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So, I power washed the tank and found the pair of decals I got from Steve - see here. They look a lot nicer in real life than in the photo on Steve's advert.

Decals to fit.jpg 

I took the opportunity of a dry spell to blow the cobwebs off the TTR and get it out in the fresh air to power wash the engine bay. Note to self, make sure you take off any loose bolts and stuff before power washing evileye

Engine bay clean.jpg

Had to do a few gardening chores etc so that's it for another day. Nice to have the extra hour of daylight in the UK as our clocks went back today.

I still have to go through engine bolts etc to make sure they are all clean and ready to use, then find a strong friend and fit the engine biggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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when i am fitting a engine with a nice frame i wrap rags round the frame & tape up i cut rags into 3 inch strips wrap all round the frame to save scratching a nicely painted or powder coated like yours brian just a thought you probably do the same john



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Yep John, I put duct tape on the down tube and rags over the bottom frame rails smile

Not a good start to the day. Got up for a call of nature at about 4am and, as my head hit the pillow again, a thought popped into my head that I might not have torqued up the two bolts on the cam slipper on the 350 - what!!😳😳😳  The doubt increased to the point that I was then not sure I had torqued up the flywheel bolt 🥴😟  So where did those ideas come from at that time of the morning and, more importantly, what do I do about it if anything? Trouble is if the doubts are correct and the slipper falls off then the resultng damage to the valves etc would be a tad expensive so I guess I gotta scratch the itch and off with the clutch cover to check 🙄 At least I hadn't filled with oil....  What's the betting its all 100% eh?

You guessed it. I had the clutch cover off and the bolts were tight. I took the plug off to access the flywheel bolt and that was torqued correctly. So what was all that about eh? A good way to waste time. I should trust my work and not my nightmares disbelief

After that initial excitement, I got the engine back in the frame and got Trish to help line up the bolt holes using one of my favourite tools - a podger biggrin

There is quite a lot of ancilliaries etc to put back on (and I didn't rush) so I am not quite ready for a trial start. Just the carb and airbox to go back on and the decals to be fitted to the tank. Oh yes, and the chain needs to go back on if I am to go for a test ride - assuming the engine starts and runs OK biggrin

I had stupidly let the battery go flat so I had to use the kickstart to check for oil pressure. After a while oil started spurting out nicely from the check bolt hole so that made me happy. It takes a lot longer using the kickstart rather than the e-start but at least I got a work out wink

I took the opportunity to grind off the high spots from the weld inside the exhaust header before putting it back on but am nervous that I might take off too much. What have others done?

Engine back in 1.jpg Engine back in 2.jpg



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ttr steve wrote:

Ouch

Now I have copied this from earlier post for carb reference ( though I have a shorty header)

My Bike is running 147 / 54 and needle on the bottom clip.

One-off exhaust (free flowing) (ran perfect on standard jetting))

Standard header pipe.

No Air box mods, with Twin Air filter.

Bike runs between 10.9 and 12.5 on the air fuel meter, between tick over and full running. 

More importantly it feels bang on, no flat spots, no over run bangs or popping, just pulls perfect all over the rev range.

Hope that helps.

Steve

 


This is going to be interesting! I have just looked at my carb which ran really well on the 325 engine (albeit a tad rich) and the jets are very different, 137 main, 48 pilot, with needle in middle notch. Same setup as yours with TwinAir filter, no airbox mods and a free-flowing Totally TTRs exhaust.  I would have guessed yours would be running really rich Steve but we will see wink



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Will take my plug out and check the colour tomorrow,  the afr  reading was a bit on the rich side,  but not way offconfuse



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An early morning start saw the carb and airbox fitted.

The decals were still to be fitted to the tank but I was keen to start her up so I rigged up a temporary fuel supply, switched on and hit the starter. She fired a couple of times and then had a couple of backfires and then nothing. The backfires made me think maybe the valve timing was wrong so I put the engine to TDC and checked the cams - all perfect. Checked petrol was getting through to the carb by opening the drain valve - perfect.  Took spark plug out and checked for spark - perfect. BUT the plug was dry and didn't smell of petrol confuse

So it had to be a fuelling problem. By this time my brother-in-law Keith had arrived to help for the day. Whilst I took the carb to the bench to investigate, Keith said to come back to the bike and pointed at the inlet stub. I immediately realised that I had forgotten to take out the paper towel I had put in to stop debris falling into the engine as I built it disbelief

The first photo shows it before I fitted the engine. The second shows how far it had got sucked in to the valves and the third what we managed to pull back out!

LH side engine built.jpg  Tissue1.jpg Tissue2.jpg

So, the carb and airbox were refitted and I hit the starter button again. This time absolutely nothing. No backfiring or anything cry  Keith again spotted the issue - a novice error - in my eagerness to start the TTR, I had forgotten to plug back in the CDi disbelief

With CDi plugged in and Keith on camera, I was feeling confident. This time it started and ran nicely - phew!  Talk about relieved biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

I was then keen to take it for a spin to check the clutch and gearbox. This required fitting the tank decals. This did not take long. They had to be the easiset tank decals I have ever fitted and look very good! The tank was put back on along with the seat, the chain fitted and all the bolts etc checked. I wheeled it outside for a couple of photos of the decals:

Decals 2.jpg  Decals 1.jpg 

 

The initial short run showed everything worked as it should do. The TTR was now properly warmed through so I parked it back inside to cool over some newspaper. I will check tomorrow to see if there are any tell-tale signs of oil leaks on the newspaper. Hopefully not!  I now need to curb my impatience and wait unitil 1st November when I will re-tax the TTR and take it for a proper run biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

I will now start to go through my spares that I will give to Steve to sell in the shop starting with this very nice flywheel from my donor engine wink

TTR-0681 - crankshaft 1.jpg   TTR-0681 - crankshaft 2.jpg

 



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Looks good, I have a ride with the lads Friday, will take the WRR as it runs out of rego Sat. Will put rego on the TTR to keep the kms off the WRR (WRR has more kms that the TTR) so will be riding the TTR for a bit

Terry

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You would only be losing about £3.90 getting it taxed now, so come on bri get out on it.



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hi brian i did that on a honda c90 engine it sucked a paper towel in but it propped the valves open so i had to take the head off again its a aged thing my pal thats my excuse anyway john

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ttr steve wrote:

You would only be losing about £3.90 getting it taxed now, so come on bri get out on it.


Just tried to tax it and find its MOT had expired disbelief Booked in for a test next Wednesday smile



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Too hasty. You never gets nowhere if you're too hasty!

Lucky it was paper towel not rag - would have clogged things up much worse. This Keith sounds a useful chap to have around

Congratulations Brian, you now have your dream trail bike! Well done (finally). Looks lovely too.

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TTRfan wrote:
ttr steve wrote:

You would only be losing about £3.90 getting it taxed now, so come on bri get out on it.


Just tried to tax it and find its MOT had expired disbelief Booked in for a test next Wednesday smile


 Hi Brian, is the MOT every year / 12 months ?   Here is SA we don't have to get the bike inspected unless they come from interstate but the rego has 3rd party body injury included in the cost, so my 250cc bike is $88 for 3 months but because the TTR ran out 16 days ago they want $21 to change the date or backdate the rego 16 days...bloody rip off.

I really wish I could have rego to cover all 4 bikes, perhaps at a higher rate & have a common plate for all four, I can only ride one at a time, even if the two Triumph's were on one plate & the two Yamaha's on another. The Minster For W&F would have a fit if all four had rego ATM

So unsure if to re rego the WRR or the TTR, might do the TTR but the Minster for W&F said yesterday perhaps it's time to sell the TTR...she does not understand !!!!



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MOT needed every year on bikes that are over 3 years old - cost just shy of £30. They also need to be taxed at £44 pa for a 250cc. And then insurance on top of that. Not too bad really.



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Hi Brian,
In New Zealand a Warrant of Fitness (Your MOT) is once a year for vehicles “first on the road” after the year 2000 and six monthly prior to that. The Check/Test costs $50 (£25).
Our version of your Tax is called Registration and is abit of a killer for motorbikes as it includes a Government injury insurance so is about $500 (£250) for a year so I only “Rego” for 7 months (Spring and Summer).
In comparison a car’s “Rego” is about $90 (£45) per year and the MOT/WOF is still the $50.
Motorbikes over 30 year’s old get a big “discount” on their Registration Fee.
Another 11 years to wait for my TTR - hell, I’ll be 79 by then - arr it’s worth the wait 🤪
Then there is Insurance on top of all this.

Still, it’s way more fun than Bowls or Golf !
Cheers
Jeff


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I really wish I could have rego to cover all 4 bikes, perhaps at a higher rate & have a common plate for all four, I can only ride one at a time, even if the two Triumph's were on one plate & the two Yamaha's on another. The Minster For W&F would have a fit if all four had rego ATM

So unsure if to re rego the WRR or the TTR, might do the TTR but the Minster for W&F said yesterday perhaps it's time to sell the TTR...she does not understand !!!!


 

Sell the WR. Use the money to build a 350 and do a YZ usd fork conversion if you're really keen



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Took the TTR for a little ride this morning - on private roads of course!  Ran very nicely - loads of torque but got to be careful not to lug it whilst running it in.

Heck of a job to start it and then I remembered I had a problem with the choke not working on the 325 and so I will need to have the carb off to investigate. I have looked at it before and could find nothing wrong. I wonder if it is possible to test the choke with the carb off the bike confuse

The starting difficulty highlighted that the used sprag I chose to install is not in good shape so my job this morning is to fit a new one. I found this new one after I had built the engine - doh evileye

Got Cerys Matthews (BBC Radio 6) on in the background, the shed is dry and warm. How better to spend a Sunday morning? biggrin

Fitting new sprag.jpeg



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TTRfan wrote:
How better to spend a Sunday morning? biggrin

 It's much better to be riding the bike, especially a SPECIAL one, on private ground, on a Sunday morning. biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

At least you're enjoying yourself and can try it out later. confuse  

Martyn



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