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The TTR250 FAQ web pages -> TTR250 -> Modifications -> God damn neutral switch
Post Info TOPIC: God damn neutral switch
Kaiser


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God damn neutral switch
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Hey guys, my name's Josh. I recently bought a (94/95?) TTR-250 Raid. This bike has been treated like crap, so I bought it as a project bike. Complete with a dodgey black spray-can paint job - yes - even on the motor.

I've stripped all the paint from the frame so it looks a bit better. At the moment I'm more concerned about the wiring and this god damn neutral & clutch switch.

Now, the bike runs and rides well. The first time I rode it, I took it up the street to see how the gears were, all good. On downshifting, the bike stalled. I later found out it was a tuning issue with the carby. The main problem was, when I (eventually) got it back into neutral, the dash neutral light wouldn't come on. I eventually gave up and tried again the next day. When i turned the bike on and kicked the gear shifter down, bingo, light came on, started up straight away. All good. Took it for a ride again, stalled, same thing happened. It seemed as if the light would only come back on if the bike was cold. I was wondering if there is any way I could get rid of the neutral switch all together? Bridge some wires or something? I've checked where the neutral switch is grounded to the motor and thats fine. Anything would help!

Have a look at how I got the bike! 


Thanks guys!



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Markvan


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Hello Josh.  Theres imfo on bypassing the clutch/ stand switch on the forum.  I disconnect mine , as alot of beach riding , switches dont like the sand/salt water..  Try typing into the search bar on the home page... 



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Kaiser


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I've already bypassed the clutch/stand switch, thats not the problem. I've searched for hours on the forum and couldn't find anything related to bypassing the neutral switch.

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TTRfan


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Hi Josh and welcome to the forum biggrinbiggrin

I can't help thinking it would be a shame to lose the neutral light. Other owners must agree which is why there isn't a thread explaining how to bypass it.

If the neutral switch is working as you say (rare for them to fail) then it has to be something like a break in the wire insider the insulation that you can't see. This matches your description of the symptoms in that the problem is intermittent.

Before ditching it, run a cable straight from the switch to the connector at the top of the frame and see if that fixes it wink

Brian



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Kaiser


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I ended up grounding the neutral wire to a different spot. The light is always on - but it never fails to start. I will give it a better look when I take everything apart.

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TTRfan


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It seems to prove the neutral lead and connections are good!!

It points to the neutral switch being faulty cry



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katana


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It should be simple to test. In neutral the switch gets grounded. Can you measure the resistance to the frame through the switch?

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mmwain


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As far as I can make out the ECU only lets the engine be started if the neutral line is connected to ground.  It signified that it is willing to do this by illuminating the green neutral light on the dash.  Once you understand that it works that way, rather the the more obvious idea that when the neutral switch is made it puts the light on and connects the starting circuit, it's easy to see that if you short it out permanently to earth the engine will always start and the light will always be on, as reported above.  From there you can easily get to the mod I have on my bike where a 3 way clamp connector on the neutral switch line (above the std connector at the top of the frame) connects in a wire which runs up to a cheap Chinese push to make switch on the left bar and from there to earth.  This means that you normally get the safety feature where it will only start in neutral, but if you press the button with your left thumb while holding the clutch in the bike will start in any gear.  This means you can get out of all sorts of difficult situations where it's impossible to move the gear lever for one reason or another much more easily than on the standard bike.  An added bonus is that if the harness connector ever loses contact or the neutral wire or switch get broken you will still be able to start the engine! Sometimes it's just easier than trying to find neutral!



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