A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Paint Pro's

Easy to touch-up, easy to find the right color, not hard to remove any excess paint, easier to re-paint, easier to clean, better result if done right.

Paint Con's

Scratches easier, has to have a clear coat (which can fade & flake), can be applied too thick if not sprayed right.

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Powder-coating Pro's

Re-sale value increases, durable coating, good finish, popular.

Powder-coat Con's

Hard to touch-up, hard to remove any excess, never seen a perfect color match, more preparation to insure the powder-coating stays where it should.

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The money spent is about the same, maybe a little cheaper for paint.

Maybe I have forgotten to add a few pro's & con's but that's my two cents.

If you do not want to read more you don't have to, just thought that this may help others?

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First of all I don't claim to be a pro but have sprayed many cars & bikes & think I achieve good if not professional results (or at least I think so)

This is for my TT-R 250 but it will be the same color as yours if blue.

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Barra's 1999-2012 Motorcycle Paint Reference Chart

TT-R250 5GFD / 5GFE Team Yamaha Blue/ Frame N1* Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C 0564 (DPBMC)

TT-R250R/C White FRAME N2* Deep Purplish Blue Solid E 0583 (DPBSE)

Engine* Universal aluminum (High temp) SP127

Swing arm/Forks* Machine Silver Ford 2QTC (CR)

Wheels* Sunlight Silver Mazda 22V

Components* Gloss Black GB400

Clear coat additive* Vibrance Prizmatique pigment DX78

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If you have trouble finding the paint or want to get it a little cheaper you should be able to go to a GOOD automotive paint shop & quote these codes below.

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DUPO5000600 DUPONT 6000 BASECOAT DP 500 ML

OW PURPLE 1

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DUPO5000600 DUPONT 6000 MS BASECOAT DP 500 ML

OW PURPLE

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You will need at least a 1L - 1L 1/2 of clear coat & a liter of primer.

Last thing, if you use a spray gun the right size nozzle it helps to save on paint. I used a cheap one from eBay & it works good (did need a few spare o-rings for the nozzle). I have a bigger pro gun but it would have wasted too much paint & also too much paint fumes.

TYPE OF FEED：GRAVITY

NOZZLE 0.8Ml -1mm

Metal pot

CUP SIZE :125ML

OPERATING PRESSURE:2.0-3.5BAR

PATTERN WIDTH:110-160MM

AIR CONSUMPTION：3.5-5.0CFM

CARS/////BOATS////WOOD WORK////BEST GUN AND LOW PRESSURE

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If your in the US see the colorite.com website for paint.

This is the color.

Bit of dust on it by this stage...

Of course it would be up to you if you want to powder-coat or paint.

If you do want to paint it though remember....First primer,make sure you give it a light sand then metallic blue base coat, 20 Min's later the solid over the top & finally clear coat after  30 Min's depending on temp.

I would recommend using a high temp paint for the motor. I used the paint in the chart. It works but may blemish like most paint with heat applied. Maybe an extractor/muffler paint would be best if wanting lasting results.

This was my motor with the clear coat additive* Vibrance Prizmatique pigment

I kinda changed it a little though BTW NO I didn't spray the spark plug cap it was like that when I bought it lol (It's since been removed).

The frame was not too bad (pic below) so all that was needed was a good sand back. The two pack primer I used sticks like glue & is so good for all those imperfections. If painting try to get everything right first. If you get all your edges nicely feather-edged first it makes a whole lot of difference.

Painting preparation:

600-800 grit sandpaper

Mineral turps or wax & grease remover for oily surfaces.

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This was it after sanding back & primer coating..

I thought I would upload the different coats because when I did this I thought for sure that the color was wrong.

The reason is that the first coat of * Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C 0564 (DPBMC) 5815 looks too blue & also too metallic....

As you can see it looks wrong but wait.....

This is the Deep Purplish Blue Solid E 0583 (DPBSE) 5829 coat that makes it look nearly right.

Then finally the UPOL clear coat which did a good job. Just to be clear, my favorite clear coat is Dee Beer but this was harder to get hold of & more $$$$ .

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The motor I used a dentist drill (like a Dremel but better) with sanding disc's but if your fussy or don't want to spend a lot of time,get it bead/soda blasted. Just remember to get ALL oil off the surface & take your time. Maybe best not to use clear coat for the engine unless it's a high temp clear. Even then it will blemish but that's always the story no matter what you do.

Make sure you don't blast your magneto wires or this will cause trouble. A bit of water won't hurt as long as there is no muck in it & you give it a good oil change afterward.

I would none the less be making sure that it's sealed well enough so no paint etc gets in. & put a blocked pipe on your oil breather (at the head cover from reading posts on here)

I put a piece of garden hose around my magneto wires after cutting it in the center. Then wrapped with electrical tape. I also plugged the intake & exhaust ports...

The rotor cap you see removed was so I could spray it black but it was there when cleaning/sanding etc. It also has packing foam in it ''just to be sure''.

When painting it pays to start with all those corners & hard to get to places first. This ensures a good coat on the edges & no missed spots.

Be sure to put a light ''tack'' coat on first,then Min's or so later give a good coat (longer for cold climates 30-40 Min's). You can use three coats but I like to do it in two. I would recommend three thin coats for anyone that is not used to spray painting.

When sanding make sure you use a sanding block for flat surfaces & a soft pad for contours etc.

Never try to get a full coat in the first coat. Always build it up slowly until it goes nice & glossy. If it's not as glossy as you want.....don't worry the clear coat will sort that out.

Note:It will not be ''super'' clear or glossy until dry.

With clear coat be VERY careful not to put too much on at once. Especially on UN-level surfaces or it will run or sag! Because it is hard to see without really good light it is best to apply a light ''tack'' coat & do another 1-2 coats in Min's or so.

The two-pack primer I describe (IE. UPOL) on the other hand you can afford to be a little more generous but don't go overboard or it will run or sag also. Always sand primer lightly before painting so as not to leave a rough surface. If your primer is going on dry & doesn't feel smooth use more thinners.

Any runs that you may encounter can be carefully sanded with medium-fine sandpaper & buffed out. Search YouTube for ideas.

Always stick to the recommended hardener Vs paint/clear & results should speak for themselves .

Good luck all

Thanks Brian

To be fair, the only frame that I have seen even come close to matching is Brian's frame that he got powder-coated recently.

On the rust issue, the frame shown above was bought from Vic,Australia, so it was vertually rust-free. I do however, like to use Galmet Ironize. It is a rust convertor that turns the rust into a stable base coat for painting, also turns the rust black. Great stuff

Hi Steve

I've been through this one! Couldn't find a colour that matched so went for black.

If anyone else has found a good match then please share 

Make sure all your rear subframe tail light tabs and the exhaust mounting are good as now is the chance to get any frame repairs done. Also check the footpeg mountings are good and that, in particular, the LH mount isn't cracked - difficult to see sometimes.

Brian

I think SKU is Stock Keeping Unit.

I got a RAL colour chart but can't find anything near the purple frame colour in it and it's the RAL number the powder coaters need.

Brian

I restored an OE and had the frame powder coated in gloss black and it looked real good - see resto thread here.

However, I updated the TTR using blue panels but I reckon it would have looked as good, if not better, with the white tank and panels.

I am sure I saw some pics of one somewheres but just can't recall where - may have been on eBay a while back 

Brian

Powder coating the wheels is expensive as you have to sacrifice the bearings and seals before they go in for treatment as it gets hot in the powder coating process and the grease melts and can spoil the finish - I know from experience - see below:

However, the process can transform an otherwise tatty pair of wheels. The last pair I had done cost me £96 

If you decide to do it. make sure the spokes are 100% before the process.

Brian

Hi Simon

Putting a spot of weld on the stand lug is an excellent idea!

If you take your frame to ICS at Cullompton for powder coating then (a) they know to mask the frame number, (b) they put special collars in the headstock so the steering head races don't get sand blasted and damaged, and (c) they put silicone plugs in all the threaded holes to protect them. 

Before I take the frame for powder coating, I pressure wash it to within an inch of its life and check thoroughly for any cracks in the usual places such as LH footpeg mount and the welds were the rear subframe meets the main frame.

If you have any worries about rust in the rear subframe upper loop then ask ICS to give you a bell after blasting and before coating so that you can inspect the frame and check any suspect areas with a toffee hammer or similar.

The only place I mask is the rear suspension linkage mounting. 

If you decide to go ahead then I have a frame here that has just been done so that you can see the colour plus I can lend you the bolt and collar to mask the suspension mount.

Brian

Yes

I have just stripped an old OE with the intention of blasting & then powder coating.

Over the last 2 weeks I have been tormented with colour choice as I see that the "purple" is so very hard to match, either powder or regular paint.

I see Brian has put a lot of research & work into this (and many other topics!)- I'm off to see the powder coater early next week, but came across this link

http://www.powder-coatings.co.uk/powder-coating-colours/bs4800-colour-chart/

Brian/anyone- has anyone got near the original colour when powder coating?

If not- I am considering going a different colour..but this raises a new set of challenges- the wheels (from Purple>Silver)..which I can organise, BUT...if I change the seat colour & gaiters...STEVE- can you help..I need Red Gaitors & a Red seat..similar set up to this one...which I think is rather sexy!...did anyone own up to owning this bike?

Sorry I can't resist putting up Mossproofs work of art!(but I fear the rebuild would be over my budget)

SO the questions are:

1. Has anyone successfully powdercoated an old OE the purple colour (Brian I suspect will know)

2. Are there any colours that would suit?- I love the jps look!!!- but don't want to paint the plastics

3. Can Steve get Red Seat/Gators...if not, where can I get a red seat cover/gators from

Brian- again that choice of colour looks soooo cool & retro- yet with the reliability of the TTR! & a RAID...I hadn't seen that on my search of this font of knowledge. you are teasing me!!
..this has to be the best site for specific bike information..WITHOUT A DOUBT.

I will visit the powder coaters & see what colours they have- the nearest (based on my PC screen) was 22 D 45 under the BS4800 Colour Chart; while under the RAL selection I spotted RAL 5019- but that is subject to my screen & whether they have got it.

I too love the black; but feel this is better suited to the Raid with the turquoise tank & gold rims...unless I do a "mossproof"...God that is a sexy bike!

I know a seat coverer..I will ask him costs- it has to have the Yamaha logo on it though

so...Gaiters sorted
does anyone know about
1.a red seat(cover)- standard, before I price up custom please?
2...oh & decals...the Yamaha chequeres, but not for the tank...more like the RAID
3.any other colours or has anyone got a good match with powder coating please?

Stop drooling over my bike Rod, you'll short out your keyboard

Red/white was my other option, but I agree the black bike does look "sick" as I believe the young people say!

How about gold frame with gold rims and turquoise tank? I like the black frame with white/gold too though. Decisions decisions!

David Lambeth might provide a red seat cover, although the OE TTR is the only one he doesn't list. Just found this:

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tailored-Seat-Cover-to-fit-Yamaha-TTR-250-TTR-500-1993-to1999-Choice-of-Colours-/302400234657?hash=item46687564a1:g:6mgAAOSwz-5Zf1VL

David Alexander has stopped his anodizing service unfortunately, but his number is still in use so he might respond to begging if your rims want doing. He's just laced a pair of SM Pro gold rims up for me which look real nice too, but 95 quid each plus building might be over budget? 

This was my ttr with the red seat cover

TTRfan wrote:

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You are dead right Jarrah. It all depends on what condition your frame is in. If it's clean and relatively rust free as yours was then spray painting is a good option.

However, if your frame looks like the one in my pic then I reckon shot blasting is the sensible option. The rust is worse than it looks in the pic I promise.

I wasn't able to find a match for the Yamaha purple at the powder coaters so chose black for my OE project bike and I think it looks good against the chrome, stainless and ally bling

Black is an acceptable alternative for the metallic blue on later TTRs as Mr Yamaha used black frames on the later Australasian TTRs - see below. 

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 That black frame looks great Brian, the exhaust is very nice, on the black frame / blue tank was Australia the last to get this  version ?  Mine is plated 2011 & I bought it in 2013

TTRfan wrote:

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Yes Terry - I think Yamaha kept selling new models such as the TTR in Australia long after they became unavaialble in other countries.

It does make you wonder why they changed the colour of the frame. Did they run out of blue paint??????

Brian

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 Can still buy new WRR's here, same with DRZ400E's got to be lucky sometimes

Terry