A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

I would also advise downloading the workshop manual all the info and torque settings you need sorry can't do a clicky thing .I'm sure cubber can point you in the right direction he's good like that 

-- Edited by hanzo on Friday 28th of November 2014 05:29:01 PM

 Here you are Andy

CLICKY LINKY THINGY to the downloadable details referred to by Hanzo.

Enjoy them - but don't rush.

Martyn

I used to try wire brushing and touching up the rusty parts of TTR frames by spraying with aerosols but it is very difficult to get into all the corners to get off the rust. Wire brushing and emery cloth aren't particularly effective at getting off all the rust. I never fancied the idea of using chemicals on the rust being afraid of some residual corrosive action but perhaps that is an unnecessary worry.

Once I found that I could match or improve on the factory frame blue by powder coating then that was my choice for all future rebuilds. And it is so nice putting parts back on a lovely frame 

Before I found a powder coater that could do the blue, my first powder coated frame was done in gloss black and very good it looked too - see the resto thread here. I stole the idea from the new Australasian TTRs where Yamaha started to use black frames so I had an idea what the finished TTR would look like.

It is possible to strip a TTR and box the parts in about an hour. Unless the bike is already very clean, take the tank, seat and panels off first and give it a thorough wash before stripping down. It will make the strip down a whole lot nicer and make the rebuild a lot quicker.

If you are not going for a full nut and bolt rebuild then you can keep some of the big assemblies together e.g. leave the front wheel in the forks and the forks in the yokes. After disconnecting the switch connectors blocks and throttle/clutch cables you can actually leave the handlebars fairly intact to keep with the fork assembly.

Also, you can take off the chain and remove the rear swing arm complete with wheel, shock absorber and rear brake assembly all still in place.

There are a few bolts that may prove a bit tricky to undo and can be helped off with an overnight soak in easing oil and maybe a bit of heat. If you haven't got an impact driver then its worth the investment. My recollection is that the tricky bolts are the two that hold the RH footpeg support in place and the bolts that hold on the rear mudguard and number plate holder as they get all the crud thrown up at them. 

To keep the parts safe, I use the big sturdy tray-style boxes from the supermarket lined with newspaper. Have some spare 6mm nuts so that you can securely fix bolts to the parts they belong such as the chain guard, rear brake master cylinder, rear brake switch, etc where the bolts are unique to that fitting.

For cleaning individual parts, I use a sink top parts washer which had covered the initial investment a hundred fold 

That's all I can think of off the top of my head!

Suffice it to say, I find it very satisfying the end up with a TTR in near showroom condition and it has been what drives me through some of the tedious parts of a restoration.

Brian