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Lin


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Help cannot remove front sprocket nut !
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If the sprocket is rotating against brake friction you can wedge a piece of timber between the tyre and the swing arm, this will lock the sprocket. If the sprocket is locked and the nut won't undo then use a longer lever to apply more torque (assuming you are using a socket and lever bar as you should be) Slip a pipe over the bar. Lastly, when facing the sprocket you should be turning the nut anti (counter) clockwise.

If the socket tilts off the nut, with the bike upright and someone sitting on it, use an extension on the socket and stack some wood blocks up to support the extension near the lever bar, with a pipe slipped over the lever bar the nut will undo.



-- Edited by Lin on Saturday 8th of September 2012 08:28:28 PM

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Remember to flatten out the lock washer and do the above

If that does'nt work...

Use some more elbow grease :)

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 9th of September 2012 01:09:28 AM

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Hi can anyone help me with advise on how to remove the front gearbox sprocket. I have done the usual i.e. somebody on the bike, frt and rear brakes on but still the nut will not budge. Any advise would be gratefully appreciated.

Derek.



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Difficulty removing front sprocket with nut off....
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Hi all.......just wondering if anyone has any tips for removing the front sprocket on a 1998 OE ?  I'm in the process of changing the existing 14 tooth front sprocket for one with 13 teeth. The sprocket retaining nut came off with no fuss at all (almost too easily!) but the sprocket seems reluctant to pull off the splines. (Chain removed of course) There is a little in/out movement but as the level of the face of the sprocket reaches the end of the splines there is no further movement possible. I've sprayed the splines with penetrating fluid and tooth-brushed the area but have had no joy. As with other sprockets I have removed on other bikes I expected the sprocket to pull off with little fuss. It feels almost as if a 'puller' is needed. I am wary of applying force from behind to lever it off lest I damage something. I can only imagine that when the sprocket was fitted some anti seize compound was omitted and/or for some reason there has been some sort of 'flaring' of the spline ends or deformation/ridging of the splines having taken place perhaps due to insufficient torquing down of the retaining nut. Any advice/observations would be very welcome! Thank you.....



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1998 TTR 250 OE Custom Paint Job/Stainless Steel Footpegs, Polisport Hand Guards, Custom Seat, 13 T front sprocket, Wavy F/R Discs,  KIWAV short compact mirrors,YUASA battery,Michelin T63 On/Off Enduro Tyres, Twin Air Filter, FMF Powercore 2 muffler



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Not sure why you are having trouble, it should come off easy(ish). If I have trouble removing levers or sprockets I use a hammer and rag (to save any damage) and carefully pry it out with the claws.

When you removed the nut did you remember to flatten the lock washer out first?

It is not a press fit so you can take that from your mind. wink

Jarrah



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Thanks Jarrah.

Yep, I would be very surprised if it was a press fit on such an item.

I think I am going to make a puller myself from a couple of suitable hex headed bolts slipped through and behind the teeth with a flat piece of metal with a central bolt to push on the spline end......

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1998 TTR 250 OE Custom Paint Job/Stainless Steel Footpegs, Polisport Hand Guards, Custom Seat, 13 T front sprocket, Wavy F/R Discs,  KIWAV short compact mirrors,YUASA battery,Michelin T63 On/Off Enduro Tyres, Twin Air Filter, FMF Powercore 2 muffler



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Maniot wrote:

Thanks Jarrah.

Yep, I would be very surprised if it was a press fit on such an item.


 Yeah, and I would be a monkey's uncle. biggrin

I made a video of how easy it should come off- 

Jarrah



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Yep, the ease of removal as shown in your video is what I was expecting having removed the retaining nut. Alas, the splined shaft is in situ in my case so I will have to apply force by other means!

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1998 TTR 250 OE Custom Paint Job/Stainless Steel Footpegs, Polisport Hand Guards, Custom Seat, 13 T front sprocket, Wavy F/R Discs,  KIWAV short compact mirrors,YUASA battery,Michelin T63 On/Off Enduro Tyres, Twin Air Filter, FMF Powercore 2 muffler



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It's quite common if the nut has been slightly lose... the sprocket moves on the shaft..& the splines change there shape..
so when you pull it it gets to the end of the spline that has no ware... & the spline in the sprocket no longer matchs it
perfectly...


GEAR PULLER.....



-- Edited by petenz on Monday 10th of February 2014 04:42:21 AM

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petenz wrote:

It's quite common if the nut has been slightly lose... the sprocket moves on the shaft..& the splines change there shape..
so when you pull it it gets to the end of the spline that has no ware... & the spline in the sprocket no longer matchs it
perfectly...


GEAR PULLER.....



-- Edited by petenz on Monday 10th of February 2014 04:42:21 AM

 

Spot on especially if the bike has had mainly sealed road use , as the ttr doesn't have a Cush drive  and really hammers the sprocket against the splines , I've seen a couple of shafts worn beyond repair (rare but does happen )


 



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Thanks for the help and useful comments above!

Yep petenz, I was wondering about some change in spline profile as I suspect the nut was slack. This TTR has seen little off-road use so far and the previous owner had it running on Sirac tyres. Thats a useful observation about the increased stress on the splines from road use.

I had measured up to knock up a makeshift puller but thought I'd just have another try at removing with other tools before I went to all this trouble. After another good soak with WD40 I used a narrowish cold chisel popped up from underneath adjacent to the footrest hanger and lightly hammered the base of the chisel to apply some outward force on the rear of the sprocket. By constantly rotating the sprocket (in neutral) and hammering I started to get some movement. This went on for half an hour at least but finally had success when the sprocket popped off much to my relief! Wiping the splines with a clean rag I noticed that there was a significant amount of light corrosion evident. It had formed in the splines thus causing the difficulty in removal along with some deformation perhaps as a result of road use as per TTboofs comment above.

The new 13 tooth sprocket slipped on like a dream of course but before tightening down I applied a coat of 'Magnalube' Teflon Grease to the splines in the hope I won't experience the above hassle in the future! The bike will also be used now mainly off road so this might limit future probs as well.

Thanks again for the assistance!



-- Edited by Maniot on Monday 10th of February 2014 02:44:15 PM

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1998 TTR 250 OE Custom Paint Job/Stainless Steel Footpegs, Polisport Hand Guards, Custom Seat, 13 T front sprocket, Wavy F/R Discs,  KIWAV short compact mirrors,YUASA battery,Michelin T63 On/Off Enduro Tyres, Twin Air Filter, FMF Powercore 2 muffler



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goo to hear you got there in the end .sounds like your ready to go .



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Sure am....quick re-adjust of the chain first thing and with weather forecast good going to go for a blast I reckon!....am looking forward to seeing how the new Michelin T63s perform!

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1998 TTR 250 OE Custom Paint Job/Stainless Steel Footpegs, Polisport Hand Guards, Custom Seat, 13 T front sprocket, Wavy F/R Discs,  KIWAV short compact mirrors,YUASA battery,Michelin T63 On/Off Enduro Tyres, Twin Air Filter, FMF Powercore 2 muffler



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Be careful on the new tyres until you have scrubbed them in a bit wink



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Thanks Brian.....yep,was very ginger today with new tyres and discs/pads! Its early days yet but can report the following:

13 tooth front sprocket (with standard 44 rear)......a great improvement! SO much easier on the trail gradients here than the 14 tooth and so much more tractable in the lower gears ....thanks again for the advice.....I doubt I'll be going for a 46/48 rear.

T63s......rumbling on surfaced road of course but good dry grip at speed however rear locks easily especially as unscrubbed as yet. Wet road was negotiated carefully but no nasty surprises! Running 1-1.2 bar pressure. Off road....deep gravel/rocks/debris.......very controllable and confidence inspiring........wet deep grass/soft soil awesome......deep mud as yet to come....

FMF Powercore produced nice sound and with TwinCore airfilter was breathing very well with no hesitation.....a great improvement! Will do a full bore engine cut out check and plug chop to see whether I need to fit larger jets/change needle position. Tickover steady as a rock. Altitude 350m to 700m on standard jetting.

More good weather forecast so am looking forward to venturing further!

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1998 TTR 250 OE Custom Paint Job/Stainless Steel Footpegs, Polisport Hand Guards, Custom Seat, 13 T front sprocket, Wavy F/R Discs,  KIWAV short compact mirrors,YUASA battery,Michelin T63 On/Off Enduro Tyres, Twin Air Filter, FMF Powercore 2 muffler

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