A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Hey Dave, glad to hear you're happy with your new ride

To answer your questions:

(N1.) The Genuine mirrors can be still found in AU, not sure about the UK. THE LH mirror uses 10mm right hand thread and the RH uses a 10mm left hand thread. In AU it is not a legal requirement to have mirrors fitted, unsure about the UK.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NOS-GENUINE-YAMAHA-AG100-AG200-DT175-DT200-DT230-TTR250-TT250R-PAIR-MIRRORS-/271344518463?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2d64c53f

This is the list of bikes that they fit-

AG100 ALL

DT125 1977-1981

IT125 1980-1982

RX125 1978-1981

TTR125 SMALL WHEEL 2000-2004

XT125 1982-1983

AG175 1981-1992

DT175C -H 1977-2007

IT175 1981-1983

SR185 1981-1982

AG200  ALL

BW200 1986-1988

DT200L 1984-1986

DT200L GREY IMPORT

DT200R 1989-1998

IT200L 1984-1985

TW200 1987-2007

XT200 1982-1983

XT225 SERROW 1992-1994

TTR230 ADR 2007

XT250 1995-2006

DT230 1999-2004

DT250 1977-1981

IT250 1981-1984

RD250 1977-1980

TT250 SOHC 1980-1983

TT250 DOHC 1986-1993

TT250R 1996-2006

XT250 1980-1991

XT250 SERROW 1995-2006

XT250TL DOHC DRUM BRAKE 1984

XT250T DOHC DISC 1985-1987

TT350 Inc ADR 1985-2001

XT350 1992-1997

DT400 1977-1981

IT400 1977-1979

RD400 1976-1980

IT465 1981-1982

TT500 1976-1980

XT500 1976-1981

XT550 1982-1983

TT600 1983-1993

TT600E ELECTRIC START 1996

XT600Z TENERE 1983-1990

XT600L 1984-1989

XT600E 1990-1992

XS750 1977-1979 - Substitute

XT750 TENERE 1990-1991

XS1100 1978-1980

(N2.)   The general consensus is 60-70mpg (roughly 155 miles per tank). From memory I get around 21klms to the litre. There is a few threads on this that may help.

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t47529554/milage/

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t50637559/tank-range/

The fuel cap loosens counter-clockwise and is the breather hose is easy to fit. You should have a one-way valve as well to stop fuel spilling from the overflow and a clip.

 To install the breather hose- Pass it under the handle tension bar, affix the breather hose to the speedometer cable by clipping the breather hose and the speedometer cable together using the clip mentioned (part N7. in the parts diagram below), it then goes through the wire guide (underneath the ignition key).

See parts 4~7 below.

(N3.) You will be able to upgrade to the AU style headlight without changing anything. All TTR's have the charging capacity to do this.

(N4.) The original toolbox comes up now and again. I just bought one from eBay in fact. There are plenty of other models that are the same but keep in mind that the tools may not be the correct sizes, not that Yamaha got it right for the TTR250 from the start haha (it should have been 24/17mm not 22/24mm for the wheel spanner). Brian has a solution to this here http://www.totallyttrs.com/#riders_wrench_or_spanner. If you search on eBay using ''Yamaha toolbox'' you should come up with a few results.  i.e..

1998 YAMAHA SRX600

97 Yamaha v max 700sx.

This is what it looks like (pictured below). The toolkit pictured below is missing a 10/8mm open ended spanner..

This is Brian's picture of the TTR250 tool kit (hope Brian doesn't mind?). Here is the link to the ancient thread (before I even knew what they looked like or where they go haha)-  http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t50773325/ttr250-tool-kit-wanted-now-found/

 

(N5.) I sometimes fit the front tire but I just take it to the shop if a rear tyre is needed. Save yourself the drama of busting tubes and breaking beads and get the tyre shop to do it (unless you have the proper equipment).

(N6.) Not sure as I live in AU  but if you want a good pdf. version, PM me your email address and I'll send it via email.

(N7.) Brian would be the best to ask about insurance.

Enjoy!

Jarrah

 

Hi Dave and congratulations on passing your test! I hope you can get out on the TTR real soon.

Jarrah's info is good and i will try not to duplicate.

1. Mirrors aren't a legal requirement in the UK and most owners who take their TTRs off the tarmac tend to remove them. I keep a RH mirror on my trail TTR so that I can keep an eyes on what's happening behind me and run both mirrors on my road TTR. Budget mirrors with chrome stems can show rust very quickly which is why we no longer stock them. See my email.

2. See my email ref the vent hose.

3. The "Australian" headlight is the same as those on the early (2000-2003?) Euro TTRs which is why you may see them on some older UK TTRs. They have a big glass light unit and throw a very powerful beam. See http://www.totallyttrs.com/NOS/index#upgrade_headlight

4. Toolkits are like hens teeth. The WR250R/X models use the same box and fittings but I haven't compared the tools they contain.

5. Tyres. I struggle and do my own coz if I get a puncture when trail riding I want to be able to fix it myself and carry on.

6. See my email.

7. I use eBike for a multi-bike insurance as I can change bikes online without incurring admin charges. I will email you a link. Oddly enough, fully comp can be cheaper than TPF&T 

Cheers

Brian

 

Paul13 wrote:

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welcome, and enjoy your bike.

Great reply to all your questions, well done that man

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 Hi, thanks for the welcome.

 

Thanks Jarrah for taking the time to reply to my questions. I certainly didn't expect as thorough a reply as that. Not that I'm surprised.

 

I'll have a look around for the tool-kit on Ebay, It's good to know that the WR250 one is the same/similar.

The fuel breather diagram is superb thank you.

I'll have another bash at the fuel cap soon after I've had my porridge.

60/70 MPG would be great, I don't think I'll be one for thrashing the bike, but who knows!

I'm glad it's a straight swap for the headlamp, I'll definitely need the extra light on the roads around here.

Thanks, Jarrah.

 

 

chrisstdt wrote:

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Hi david Im not far from you in the scottish borders ,if you ever fancy a run out let me know ,were having a day on the lanes over hadrians wall and up into wark forest by kielder in january sometime

Some of the lanes and forestery parts are pretty muddy but thats the best way to learn !

We also go up to drumclog offroad in aryshire in spring and summer if you want some proper offroading thats the place to go ,im sure i could pick you up on the way through if you want to go to drumclog

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             Chris, I'm focusing the TTR on road work initially with an eye to taking it off-road in the future. It'll be used mostly as a commuter or buzzing about the country roads here. 

             Thanks very much for the invite to hadrians wall and drumclog. If possible I could more likely join you in the spring/summer if that's OK?

             It's good to know there's other TTR/Riders around here not just in to sport bikes!

             Much appreciated, Dave.

 

 

 

Hi Dave, I went through ebike as well as not many companies would touch an import. Hastings who I'm with for my Tuono wouldn't touch the ttr at all. I had to start with no no-claims. Drumclog isnae that far from me but not sure my body is upto hardcore riding these days

TheWizardofOdds wrote:

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I've had the bike a month now and have only been out once as I've only recently passed my test and I needed a few things like gear , insurance and mirrors etc.and the weather is biblical. So...

When I start the TTR I leave it on full choke for about five mins and then half choke. At this point it idles ok. When I push the choke fully in the engine dies in seconds.

I know there's no substitute for taking the bike out but when I did it cut out on me quite easily at low speeds. A few times due to my ham-fisted new biker ways but not always. I rode the bike with choke on for a while and gradually eased it off.

Any ideas how to sort this? The bike should still idle with the choke off no?

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 Sounds like you have a blocked idle jet. See here for carb info- http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t55374798/rebuilding-a-ttr250-teikei-y30p-carburettor/

The bike should idle almost straight away after starting. I only leave my choke on for about 20secs max as it can overheat the engine and foul the plug.

Jarrah

 

 

TheWizardofOdds wrote:

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Are idle jets and air jets the same thing?

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 No, the idle/pilot jet is labelled below but is a Sigma type (a bit longer than standard)-

This is the air jets (pictured below)-

This is the location of the pilot jet and main jet-

If you look at the picture above you will see the brass jets (main and pilot jet). The #150 main pictured above is screwed into the main nozzle (pictured left) and the pilot is the other jet pictured (pictured right).

I think it is nearly a certainty that you have a blocked pilot/idle jet, maybe even a blocked accelerator pump nozzle to go with it? 

It is easier than you think, just take my advice on removing the float pin. It only removes one way and it is possible to break the posts in the process. That is why I mention the 1.5mm drill bit to enlarge the float post holes that retains the float pin (seen above sticking out one side of the float posts). However, if you are not good with tools it may be best to leave it to someone who is. It is all too easy to strip the brass jets and screws if you are not mechanically minded.

 If I was closer I would be happy to have a look at it, but postage to-and-from Scotland to Australia may cost more than a local mechanic.

Jarrah

No problems

If you decide to go ahead with it, Brian has a great thread for removing the carb here- http://www.ttr250.com/Removing_carb/TTR_carb_removal.htm

Enjoy reading, if nothing else.

Jarrah

My TTR had the same idle issue. I'm sure it was the idle jet which was partially blocked. Petrol soaking, ultrasonic cleaner, air blast were all tried on every possible carb part and it seemed ok but still failed to idle. In frustration I "flossed" the idle jet with some fine copper wire from inside some speaker cable. Sorted.

texasT wrote:

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David,

I understand your reluctance to attempt carb rebuild. I felt the same as you until I read the rebuild posts Brian has thru this site. I have done some Holley, Rochester and Motorcraft carbs in the past and they can be a nightmare. Our little TTR has a very simple carb that is PERFECT to learn on and with the help of these guys around here and with the CORRECT parts on hand, it's pretty easy really.

Just hollar and someone is sure to respond! (That Aussie Jarrah never sleeps)

greg

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 Thanks Greg. I feel a bit better about tackling it now. I'm not normally overawed by much but I have no experience of working on bikes at all. As you say though, all the info and help is available here. 

TTRfan wrote:

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A brand new pilot jet is on its way to Dave which I hope will sort out the issue. Certainly sounds like a partially blocked pilot jet 

Brian

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 Cheers Brian, I appreciate it very much and will check out your threads and Jarrah's for reference. Along with the service manual too. What could go wrong? Heheh. 

Do I need to remove the breather hose before taking off the tank? I've got one of the short ones Brian supplied.

I would imagine it can stay on.

TT-R250M wrote:

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When I fitted a breather valve like the one above, I had problems with ventilation so be mindful of that.

Jarrah

 

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Hi Jarrah

We have sold quite a few of those breathers and nt had any adverse feedback. What problem did you encounter please?

Brian

And breathe...

-- Edited by TheWizardofOdds on Wednesday 8th of January 2014 03:18:13 PM

Excellent stuff Dave! We knew you were apprehensive at tackling the carb removal job but there it is - off 

Brian

Thanks Brian. I'm going between the two threads and it came off fine. Going back on, now that will be the test! 

Did you check the operation of the accelerator pump? Does it squirt fuel a nice stream if it is full with fuel and the throttle is applied. Watch eyes!

How bout the main jet, is it clean?

Does the pilot look partially blocked when you hold it up to the light?

Jarrah

Ok, by twisting the part that the cable is attached to. Heheh.

Either all the fuel has leaked or the pump is blocked. I can see a small amount of fuel around it but not the hole where it comes out?

Got that ok thanks.

Where does the overflow hose at the bottom of the carb rest?

I lost all the fuel somehow. It only squirted a little. I'm not sure where to place the hose? It's on ok but I don't know where to route it to keep it from the chain etc.

It only bloody idles! With the choke 'in'.

I won't get too ahead of myself though. I let it idle for about ten mins and its ok but there is definitely a hesitancy about it. The engine cut out after about ten mins idling but started back up fine.

Its an improvement though and I've certainly learned a bit about the bike in the process.

I looked at those diagrams Jarrah, in my service manual but couldn't tell if it was Wednesday or Wembley. I've still a lot to learn.

The breather hose at the side is ok but the length of hose attached to the bottom of the carb (overflow?) I've routed through the gap where the suspension spring is if you catch my drift. Its only there to keep away from the chain but I'll be damned if I can remember where it was when I removed it?

Thanks for the help through this today. Its been enjoyable and I'll need to attend to a couple of things in the morning but I'm desperate to take this thing out. I'll see how the weather is tomorrow.

TheWizardofOdds wrote:

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It only bloody idles! With the choke 'in'.

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Congratulations Dave - good to hear that particular issue has been resolved i.e. your TTR wouldn't idle without the choke on suggesting the original pilot jet was partially blocked.

The pilot jet I supplied is a pucca Yamaha 52.5 one and the main jet is a standard original #147.

Let's hope it performs OK on your test run today 

Brian

It can be confusing trying to understand me that's true.

Yes, I meant that the manual choke rod/lever/switch heheh whatever you call the damn thing, is pushed fully in and the bike idles ok. Ish.

I understand having the bike sitting around idling isn't ideal but it just didn't seem right that it died without choke almost immediately.

So its definitely an improvement I just need to route that overflow hose properly, quadruple check that I have put everything where it should be, put the chain roller on correctly and ride that thang!

I will check against all that you have mentioned about the bikes behaviour idling etc Jarrah and see if anything is apparent that might need attention.

Off to the garage now...

Good progress Dave - well done!

You may not want to hear it but you could do a bit of fine tuning using the pilot or fuel metering screw (sometimes also called the airscrew)  - instructions on Jarrah's thread here 

The screw is accessible without dismantling anything.

Start by screwing it in until it is "lightly seated" (normal thread) i.e. all the way in, when I usually put a blob of Tippex on or somehow mark the tab nearest to me so that I will know how many turns or fractions of a turn out I take it.

The sweet spot will be somewhere between one turn and two and a half turns out. The manual for the US TTR says one and a half turns out which is a good starting point.

This won't be necessary if you feel the TTR is running OK now.

Brian