It's a ignition only loom... Theres no starter curcuit.. No plug in the loom to power the starter relay up.. Theres also no power feed to the battrey for the charge current.. the only wires to/from the battrey are earth to the motor & positive to the starter relay.. the positive wire with the 15A fuse has no wire in the loom to plug it into.. Pretty sure it won't charge the battrey... There is NO connection from the battrey to the loom.. either pos or neg Even thow it has a few of the other componts there they don't do anything..
it dose spark with or with out the battrey..
EDIT.........
Going by the wireing dia you posted...
to get charge current to the batt... looks as if I have to run a wire from the red wire
on the reg/rec to the red wire from the batt with the fuse in it...
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 13th of October 2013 06:47:54 AM
It's not to bad once opened up.... add a couple wires & remove the crimp joiners... Ignition is all there , charge curcuit only requires one wire to the batt...
theres no start curcuit at all even though the diode is there..
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 13th of October 2013 09:07:47 AM
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 13th of October 2013 09:16:30 AM
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 13th of October 2013 09:18:54 AM
The area circled in the pic below is your starting circuit, all it needs is to be plugged into the starter relay somehow. The plug shown in circles could be this plug but I'm unsure how it is wired from the pic??
the plug in the circle is the diode according to the wireing dia colour codeing & plug shape....
blue/white wire AC current / red/black wire DC current & 2 pins at 90* to each other..
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 13th of October 2013 10:09:14 AM
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 13th of October 2013 10:10:16 AM
With the wireing dia you posted...
I think I will have to strip the new loom out
and go over it....
Remove all the messy crimp conectors in side it & soilder every thing up..
The charging circuit is easy- AC current comes from the stator (three white, the red one is for DC current) then goes through the Rectifier/Resistor, through a 15a fuse and to the battery. It also joins to the ignition circuit to power the coil.
Without the Rectifier/Resistor you will not be able to run the bike without a battery. It needs DC (direct current) current which it receives after going through the Rectifier/Resistor, before this it is AC current (alternating current) and will NOT run the ignition.
The starting circuit uses AC and DC current, the DC needed to run the starter motor and the AC to trigger it. The AC needs to join to the DC circuit via a Diode or it will burn the wiring out and blow fuses. AC current cannot touch DC! The red battery lead joins to the positive side of the starter relay and has a small wire leading to the fuse, the black battery lead earths to the motor and has one small black wire that joins to the main earth at the harness. The starter relay also has a plug that plugs into the starter diode. One side of this plug will be AC power leading from the start switch and the other is DC current leading from the On/Off switch.
Hope that helps?
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
With the wireing dia you posted... I think I will have to strip the new loom out and go over it.... Remove all the messy crimp conectors in side it & soilder every thing up..
Good idea and good luck!
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
The area circled in the pic below is your starting circuit, all it needs is to be plugged into the starter relay somehow. The plug shown in circles could be this plug but I'm unsure how it is wired from the pic??
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Run two wires from the starter diode (as pictured above), the blue with a white stripe is AC current and goes to the starter relay low voltage wire plug, the red with a black stripe is DC current, this needs to go to the other low voltage wire at the starter relay. The high voltage cables do the rest as pictured below..
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
This is more detailed but it may be harder to understand??? The high voltage wires I have made larger than the low voltage so it is easy to define between the low voltage wires. Also, the black earth wire circled in green needs to be longer so it reaches from the battery to the main earth at the regulator..
Hope that helps?
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
This is more detailed but it may be harder to understand??? The high voltage wires I have made larger than the low voltage so it is easy to define between the low voltage wires. Also, the black earth wire circled in green needs to be longer so it reaches from the battery to the main earth at the regulator..
Hope that helps?
Jarrah
kool... we are thinking along the same lines.... must work...
According to the wiring diagram the wiring job you did is correct but if you have any problems let me know.
The diode with the ''?'' (part 1 of the starter diode) on it should have a blue wire, a light blue wire and a blue wire with a white stripe attached to each pin though and the diode should be a three way connector.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
the one with the qustion mark on it... dose have a 3 way connector one of the wires has been
cut off.... I can't find it on the wireing diagram.. so I asume its for the full road legal version with
flashers / horn etc... I have no real idea what it dose... It was in there so I left it in...
the one with the qustion mark on it... dose have a 3 way connector one of the wires has been cut off.... I can't find it on the wireing diagram.. so I asume its for the full road legal version with flashers / horn etc... I have no real idea what it dose... It was in there so I left it in...
If it is the light blue wire that is missing, don't worry about it, it doesn't need it.
That diode is part 1 of the starter diode. Without it you will not have a Neutral light so you will not be able to use your starter motor (contrary to the wiring diagram). The other diode is just there to stop it blowing fuses or burning the wiring out (like a resistor).
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Yes it the light blue or sky blue ones that has been cut off... There is no neutral light...
Okay, good to go!
I only mentioned the Neutral light because the diode is before the Neutral light. It will make no difference whether you have a Neutral light or not, it will NOT electric start without the Diode marked with a ''?''.
Let me know how you go please.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
The loom works... Have ignition & starter... Charge? guess I will find out if I get a flat battery.....
Was bit of a worry for a couple minutes..No spark... just a bad connection into the CDI plug..
If you want to test the charging circuit, disconnect the positive battery lead (red) and kick-start it while testing the red wire leading from the R/R. This voltage should be around 12.8VDC.
The other method that works is to test without disconnecting the battery but this will interfere with the reading. It should be from 12-15VDC using this method.
If you don't have a multimeter, just disconnect the red battery terminal and kick-start or roll-start. If it starts and runs well, it must be charging.
Thanks for all the help (sarcastically) lol
Glad you got it sorted!
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +