A rebore might add a few cc and a fraction of a bhp but basically brings the engine back to new condition if done in association with doing the valves.
Just need to put some miles on it which won't be a hardship if the weather improves!
I have been reading your re-build/refurbish thread and think you have done a great job! Rebuilding bikes can be much more rewarding than buying a new bike because you can be proud of the finished product (and brag a little;).
I am in the process of rebuilding a WR400 and so far so good. Waiting for parts is the worst bit of the whole job, it all takes time but worth it in the end.
Thank you for sharing this with us Brian
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Not done much to the TTR recently other than trying to put some miles on it running in. Not a lot of fun being a mobile roadblock travelling at 35-40mph max
At last our bashplates and tail tidies are back in stock so have fitted them. A very straightforward job so I haven't taken any fitting pics. However, I decided to fit one of our LED number plate lights to the tail tidy and thought it might be worth showing how. It's not going to impress the old hands but might help someone doing a job like this for the first time.
The LED light draws very little power so I could have used very thin wire but that would have caused problems in fitting the Japanese (important to use these as "normal" UK ones won't connect properly) bullet connectors where the wire goes into the loom just behind the airbox. So, the first job was to find a length of twin wire of similar thickness to the standard wires and feed it through the correct route from front to back and then fit the bullet connectors. I hope the pic is big enough scale to show how the connectors and insulators fit.
Next, overlap the wires from the LED and the new feed line and chop to length and strip off insulation ready for soldering.
Cut two lengths of heat shrink to go over the soldered joints and a length of bigger section to protect it all. Feed them back down the LED wires out of the way so they don't get accidentally shrunk in the wrong place by the soldering!
Next, solder the wires together.
Fix the two small heatshrink sections with a hot air gun or similar.
Nearly there.
Then slip the larger section of heat shrink up and fix in place with the hot air gun.
Job done!
Just need to replace the rear mudguard, seat and number plate.