A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Yeah sure am sure,both the 1992-1999 and 1999-2006 clutch springs are 41.4 measured on with a micrometer allowing .6 mm for wear and tear  (one was closer to 41.5 the newer looking 2003). The spec has to be the same for both eg. 42mm

You could check that with new springs but if it's that close to 42mm then i'd say 99.9% sure they are the same.

Also when i said you could upgrade to the 1999-2006 7 clutch plates i was saying that the 1999-2006 cover fits the 1992-1999 bottom end case. So if you used all the 1999-2006 stuff eg. basket,boss and cover on the 1992-1999 it would fit fine.

Another advantage as mentioned would be the higher oil capacity.
 

Also with clutch springs you can fit washers to make up for the spring height,i have done this before and it worked as good as new ones. Not sure if they would last as long but it lasted another set of plates for me. Would have lasted longer i think but i like new stuff and staying in spec 

 I was reading up on your retro-fitting a kickstarter thread,very good Brian. Hope  7mm sticking out from the casing will be ok for the kickstarter spring lug as it's already in lol

Thanks Brian for your help,maybe we should all call you Brain and give Brian a break???

Cheers mate

 

 

-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 11th of August 2012 12:16:55 AM

What is the diameter of the shaft that goes through the casing? 

I have found that the kickstarts off the later blue models will fit the earlier white TTRs no problem. I have fitted them myself to both my brother's OE and another mate's.

Could your parts be off a TT250 perhaps?

Some pictures here to compare http://ttr250.com/TTR_retrofitting_kickstart.htm

Brian

Seems to be 14mm inside the casing,hard to measure though

I'm going to take the clutch off and see if the intermediate gear  is the same

I think your right Brian,

                                  My intermitent gear fits well bit of play back and forth (wobbles when wobbled :) but i'm guessing that's normal.

My casing does seem to be 14mm but i think it's just a hard spot to measure.

The kickstarter shaft is out of spec though so it must be the problem (i'm hoping :).

A second hand shaft or mechanism will have to do for now,doesnt seem to be anything wrong with it other than the shaft though.

Was very happy looking at the clutches i might add very nice

I am going to take my chances and buy this... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1980-Yamaha-IT250-starter-gear-assembly-kick-kickstart-/190425718770?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5641dff2

It looks so similar and if it does fit hey there is so many of them online i could buy them cheap and sell them as a ttr250 assembly and make a fortune lol jks

barra8 wrote:

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I am going to take my chances and buy this... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1980-Yamaha-IT250-starter-gear-assembly-kick-kickstart-/190425718770?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5641dff2

It looks so similar and if it does fit hey there is so many of them online i could buy them cheap and sell them as a ttr250 assembly and make a fortune lol jks

---

Can you get them to measure shaft diameters front and rear plus give you the overall lengths? It would be safer before you buy...... 

hi, ive just bought a ttr250 1994, and it clunks and bangs when starting and stopping! so, after reading up on this site about all the problems with starter motors on these bikes i got thinking, why dont people do away with the starter motor and just use a kick start? i think that it is what i want to do, is there any reason why i cant do this? if i can, does anyone have a kickstart mechanism that i could buy? thanks, pete

Hey Pete,

               Of course it can be done,this thread should help ....... http://ttr250.com/TTR_retrofitting_kickstart.htm

All you have to do is unbolt the sprag clutch (bolts onto rotor) and use it without.

      

Finding a kickstart kit might be a bit hard though but if you find one cheap enough let me know. This is all i have found so far... http://yshop.yamaha-motor.com.au/products/gytr-kick-start-kit-0

 

If you remove the sprag clutch and electric start assembly there will be nothing to damage so it would be fine..

You will have to fit a plug (welch plug) 30mm into where the electric start motor went before removing it

Jarrah.

 

-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 21st of August 2012 02:25:43 PM

One of the joys of the TTR is the electric start.

After dropping or, God forbid, drowning the bike or, towards the end of a long day’s trail ride when you are tired, it is a Godsend.

Also, if you are on sidling ground, it isn’t always easy to balance to give a good kick.

A new sprag clutch costs about the same as a s/h kick start kit (which are getting increasingly hard to source) so is worth considering.

It would also make a TTR easier to sell if it has a working electric start.

Just my two pennies worth.

Brian

After all this interest in kickstart levers I decided to have a look at the one on the TTR I am currently restoring.

The ball bearing was well past its sell by date! See pic below of old alongside the new 5.5mm ball bearing.

 

The 5.5mm ball was fairly tight in the socket so I am pretty sure its the correct size.

I stretched the spring a bit to make sure it would work properly but may look at getting in a small supply of new ones although the nearest I can find to the size look expensive - see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-Helical-Compression-Spring-8mm-Long-Outside-Diameter-4-8mm-Y8-/130744671635?pt=UK_CPV_Aviation_SM&hash=item1e70fd5d93#ht_2673wt_1067

Greased it all up and put it back and it works much better now 

Brian

 

 

hey mate i live in nsw australia as well and my "ner ner" spring is only 7.9mm the same as martyns?

i measured the spring again to be sure and its confirmed to be 7.9mm.

-- Edited by yamahaTT250R on Tuesday 28th of August 2012 03:21:43 AM

Oh i read your other post. Sounds like your in the same situation as me but i only need the kickstart shaft myself. Good luck on that one mate. If you find anything please be sure to let me know. I do know where to get the whole brand new kit for roughly AU $470.00 or something ridiculas like that lol so if you want that let me know.

Cheers,

          Jarrah.

-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 28th of August 2012 09:01:47 AM

i see that there are alot of 125 ind 90 kickstarters for sale online, does anyone know if either would fit my 250? i thought that often the same bottom end is used up to 300 or so.

thanks. pete

Awesome thanks Brian,

                                 I have a loncin 250 kickstart lever here. It fits at the spline so works no problem. Although it has a different size kickstart boss. Not sure what size but bout to measure. I think its an interesting subject as there aint alot of kickstart parts for ttr anymore

Jarrah.

Sorry Brian....You were right by saying that the gears mesh. The spring pushes on the ratchet wheel which locks in & turns the kickstarter gear.

So yes.............the gears are meshed.

...............

Jarrah.

-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 30th of December 2012 01:29:46 PM

Excellent Jarrah! I have only just seen your post and had done some detective work myself in the meanwhile and you are spot on - as usual 

The gears stay meshed at all times. The ratchet wheel tucks under the ratchet stop when the kickstart returns to its rest position so that the ratchet is disengaged - simples 

I will post my pics anyways coz I done 'em!

It's comments like these that make me happy i do'nt have one. lol (last words before having to roll start :)

It reminds me of times when i skinned my shin on it when it fell down going through scrub. lol. Also when it came off completely & i had to go back along my trail to find it. Once found it was off to the welder AGAIN lol.

Good work Brian,that should hold that BAD BOY up

..............................

Jarrah.

-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 26th of January 2013 11:31:06 PM

looks great (simple+cheap+effective = good)

now all that is needed for kick-start lever perfection is a little bit of modification so the lever folds in closer to the frame.
it is kind of annoying how the lever can sometimes get in the way because its sticks out more than many other dirt bikes.
this is a separate issue from its tendency to flop about (which is solved nicely by the rubber band).

I'm not personally bothered by it enough to start bending, filing etc, but it is a minor nuisance.

If anyone is wondering if this fits still- IT DOES NOT FIT!

Been there, tried that- now fitted to my mates xt225 serow.

Jarrah.

Other than welding it there is no way to fix it that I know of. Welding the kickstarter to the shaft would be hard without blowing the seal though. You would need to cool it down with water and only weld small welds and build it up (which weakens the weld).

 The part number for the shaft is 4GY-15660-00-00 but unfortunately is not available to buy separately (that I know of)).

Jarrah

Mud, please help us.

I'm a bit insure which of your kickstart shaft is broken.

Is it the splined shaft that sticks  through the casing

OR, is it the shaft of the kickstart that fits on the splines

Nevertheless, whichever is broken won't be readily available as new.

It would perhaps be best to look around breaker's yards and collect the bits required.

Martyn

Just ought my TTR and had a new MOT done. Only had to repalce the bearings in the rear suspecnsion. On arrival home thought I'd try out the kick start which was fine except the kick starter did  not spring back to allow a second attempt.

 

Two questions what is the problem?  I'm guessing at the kick start return spring and 2 can this be replaced with the engine in the frame. Any other suggestions welcomed.

See http://ttr250.com/TTR_retrofitting_kickstart.htm

Maybe try rocking the TTR back and forth with it in gear to see if it returns?

Brian

Terrence R wrote:

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I have a friend that has had lots of problems with the notch on his crank case where the spring locks in on a couple of his old air cooled YZ490's. I'm not sure if the set up is similar, but it may be worth looking into.

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 The TTR250 is not the same. It has a locking pin that is installed into the crankcase, rather than using a lug on the crankcase. Much better idea IMO.

That said, it is not entirely impossible to snap the pin from the crankcase but is highly unlikely in normal circumstances. I think the problem will be the spring broken or is not returning as it should.

Jarrah