Thanks for your suggestions, but I'm still at a loss. Checked the clutch/side stand switches by bridging the connectors with no effect. Also looked at the main starter switch which looks okay. with the ignition on and a multimeter across the terminals of each switch circuit there is no voltage at all. Any further suggestions most welcome Nigel
Thanks everyone. I will store all this for the future. I think the problem is solved: fitted a new side stand switch and it now starts! The weird thing is occasionally I have to press the starter switch a couple of times before anything happens, but I am now much happier.
Intermittent activity from my TTR starter button was the the beginning of the end for the starter motor brushes. When at work, we use the starter often, up to a couple of dozen times a day. It wasn't long before there was no activity from the starter motor.
I have been doing a lot of maintenance on my bike lately, and have spent quite a few pounds. Now my starter motor has packed up, shredded gears, done the sprag and large idler gear, then turned my attention to the starter. A new starter from Yamaha is over £300 +, pattern part from china £120, as I have spent so much and am on a budget, I done some research and found this....http://www.dirtybiking.co.uk/features/tech_stuff_2005_starter_rebuild.htm
I found a starter on ebay for £20 with free postage, when the part was delivered I put both on the bench and reflected on Adrian's article. I really found it hard to get myself motivated to do that much work, and started to look at them closely, what I noticed was that they were very similar. I spent the next hour trying to think of ideas, then had a eureka moment.
The only difference of the starters was that the fazer one was 12mm longer and the mounting bracket and spigot for the electric were different and in the wrong place (would hit the cylinder head), what I came up with is this. I took the back part of the ttr starter off, and swapped it with the fazer one, drilled out holes 12mm from the centres of the original ones, so that the starter could move back 12mm. Then I cut of the old holes, took a file to the raised bit's and replaced them later with washers, to make the correct position. I had to file a bit of the back of the starter to get the bolts to fit properly, this is obvious if you have a go at this. Then I bolted the modified ttr one onto the back of the fazer starter and fitted it to the bike!
Once I had worked out what to do, the actual work took 30mins
I have nearly got the rest of the bike back together and will let you know what happens next, ie if it STARTS!!!!
Here are the photo's of the work.
g
If you are going to do this, PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE STARTER GEAR COVER OFF AND INSPECT THAT THE STARTER PINION GEAR IS WORKING ON THE WHOLE SURFACE OF THE IDLER GEAR. If it isn't, you will have to adjust the fixing holes and move the starter motor inwards a bit!
Anyway if this starts the bike, it is a very cheap way of fixing a starter and does not take too long..
Hope that you at least enjoy my report, if nothing else.
I had read that article before but it says that the Fazer shaft is longer and it needs to be machined shorter. This was something I didn't really want to do (if needed). I'm glad someone came up with a solution, lets hope it works.
It took me awhile to get my head around it all (it's the morning haha) but now that I have, it's an awesome idea!
Cheers!
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
love posts like this! Good job steve, very resourceful of you.
done some digging and that starter motor assembly part number is identical on all the bikes listed below... hope that adds to the great information already posted.
-- Edited by Andy_C on Thursday 21st of November 2013 06:50:39 PM
love posts like this! Good job steve, very resourceful of you.
done some digging and that starter motor assembly part number is identical on all the bikes listed below... hope that adds to the great information already posted.
Here is some more info to fill in the gaps-
1989 FZR600W STARTING MOTOR
1990 FZR600RA STARTING MOTOR
1991 FZR600RB STARTING MOTOR
1992 FZR - FZR600RD STARTING MOTOR
1993 FZR600RE STARTING MOTOR
1997 YZF600 - YZF600RJ STARTING MOTOR
1997 YZF600 - YZF600RJC STARTING MOTOR
1998 FZR600RK (YAMAHA BLACK) STARTING MOTOR
1998 FZR600RKC (YAMAHA BLACK) STARTING MOTOR
1998 YZF600RK STARTING MOTOR
1998 YZF600RKC STARTING MOTOR
1999 FZR600RL (YAMAHA BLACK) STARTING MOTOR
1999 FZR600RLC (YAMAHA BLACK) (CA ED.) STARTING MOTOR
1999 YZF600RL STARTING MOTOR
1999 YZF600RLC (CA ED.) STARTING MOTOR
Enjoy!
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Had a problem just today with the start switch and thought I would share my solution with others. The starter motor would not start no matter how much I tried pressing the switch. At the start I was not getting anything, no noise, nothing. The fuse was not blown and the battery terminals seemed tight. After awhile of pressing the switch to try to get a contact I would occasionally get a clicking noise coming from the starter relay.
So I took the fuel tank off to access the switch connector block. It is a four pin connector block with AC wires in one side (blue wires) and DC in the other (brown and a red with black stripe). I set my multimeter to the AC (alternating current) setting in the 200-V range and turned the ignition switch to the On position. I first tested the wire with a white stripe to see if I had a power feed from the battery. To do this I used the red multimeter probe to ''probe'' the back of the connector block (while it was still connected) and grounded the other negative multimeter probe to the engine bolt (that holds the decompression lever in, if fitted). The result was 26.9-VAC so I knew I was getting power from the battery. I then tested the other side of the switch (receiving side). To do this I probed the blue wire from the back of the connector block and pressed the starter button. Just as I thought I was getting a very low reading of 0.1-0.3 VAC. I knew it was the switch from this test and thought it may need resoldering as I had fixed it once before. It turns out all I had to do was take the switch apart and clean it. Very easy!
Problem solved.
Jarrah
-- Edited by TT-R250M on Wednesday 8th of January 2014 05:27:34 PM
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
for a while now ive had a problem where I press the start button and nothing happens. I turn the red switch to off and back on and the bike starts so I thought it was just the switch.
but today switching the switch off and back on didn't work and I noticed a click when pressing the start button so after a few presses it clearly wasn't working so I put the bike in gear and rocked it back and forth pressed the start button and it started. I have had this problem all day and coupled with a cutting out in water problem its not been much fun.
just removed the starter motor and one of the brushes has completely worn down so it needs new brushes. does anyone know can buy these separate from the plate or
does it all come as one piece?? also are they a standard thing used across many models or are they specific to the ttr?
I have had a problem with my starter, shredded the pinion and damaged the idler gear Post-mortem report is this............ When I measured and drilled the holes, for the new position of the starter mounting bracket I thought that was ok, I found out that the starter motor wasn't in far enough and was only engaged half way on the idler gear. If you are going to do this, PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE COVER OF AND INSPECT THAT THE STARTER PINION GEAR IS WORKING ON THE WHOLE SURFACE OF THE IDLER GEAR. You may have to move it forward a bit!
I dont think the honda starter will be a straight forward fitment or replacement i think you would find info on the net if was case. I would recommend you replace with correct starter motor as it seems it is specific to the ttr and you risk further damage by trying alternatives it is crucial all engages correct .As jarrah has given you links to the info on using alternative yamaha starters this is also not a straightforward operation as the armatures need machining i would go with the correct fitment which is available from brian at totally ttrs ones on ebay ect are usually availiable from china in my expeirience you get what you pay for you will not find a better price I know as I have recently replaced mine.
yeah. its fitted on TTR, its %100 same, i have also checked brush kit and armature... all is same. paid only 50$ and job done. its 3rd day and no problem, working good, not noisy
yeah. its fitted on TTR, its %100 same, i have also checked brush kit and armature... all is same. paid only 50$ and job done. its 3rd day and no problem, working good, not noisy
cesar
Nice work!
Thanks for posting the results!
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
its with 9teeth on the pinion and its working on large idler gear as perfect. armature is samee size but there in no any shim or bearing on it. if you want to replace some parts, the
brush kit fitting but armature is a bit fat, and bit more forceful... cant fit that armature into ttr one. thats why, there is a roller over top of the magnets.
KNjonjo;
am no sure but its fit all year cbf250 and cbx250 twister
by the way also fitted suzuki gn250 airjet carburetor and stator on ttr250 after a easy modification, just get an 18 coiled stator which one is fitting on rotor than replace to bolt holes
well done ceasar glad to hear it all worked nice find.I got to admit I was a bit sceptical it was going to fit ok but obviously it does nice work
ttr steve wrote:
Excellent, have you checked the starter pinion is working on the whole of the large idler gear? Result if it bolts on with no extra work well done.
no any extra work, just take and tightening bolts. its all, remove exhaust pipe, oil hoses and chain tensioner... 10 min job than get start and run away!
so, my 94 ttr is still eating starters up. im just about to fit its 3rd one in under 100hrs use. last one i changed, i also put in a good large idler and starter clutch (thanks brian and trish!) but it seems another one is eaten up with a chewed up pinion and buggered brushes. idlers are ok with no marks on them, but i do note that compared with schematics i seem to be missing some thrust washers from the small idler. are these a requirement, if so where could i get some or get some specs to have them made?
I don't think the missing washers are causing the problem but they should be fitted. The part number is 296-13147-00 and you should be able to get them mail order from MotoWard or Fowlers - or save postage by buying them from your local Yamaha dealer.
Something is preventing the starter pinion meshing properly with the starter gear. The bush that supports the bearing that the large starter gear sits on runs directly in the crankcase and cover housings. Is the bush a good fit or could some of the swarf from the damaged pinions have got in and damaged the housings - or possibly the needle roller bearing itself?
Is the generator cover OK and not cracked which would allow the gear to go out of alignment under load?
ok long shot but could your starter gear be running a 72/20 tooth pattern as mine was mine being same year as yours .brian would have supplied you with a 16/14 idler which would r un a 72/19 hence giving meshing problem.my idler was 16/15 origiinally .im not sure from your post if brian supplied your starter gear or you used original so im probably wrong but worth a mention
Thanks Brian.....my TTR missing that assembly. I pulled the tank today and saw an unused female two pin plug. I thought that may have what is was for, I made up a short jumper and joined the terminals but it made no difference at all. It's really only an issue if the engine 'flames out' as four stroke singles are wont to do at times! Bugger :-/
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Cheers William '94 TTR250 Raid Jap import '05 R1150 GSA
Does anyone know if the clutch switch operates to ground when the lever is pulled in? I've had two 'flame outs' while moving very slowly in traffic, and the starter won't operate on my TTR unless the gearbox is in neutral. I found a wiring diagram here during a search, but the pic is low res and I'm not sure if the clutch switch opens and closed the ground or not? I'm not bothered if the bike can be started while in gear and clutch engaged. Bike electrics give me the hebejeebees :-/
Thanks!
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Cheers William '94 TTR250 Raid Jap import '05 R1150 GSA
If you find the above problem with the relay clicking but nothing else then you more than likely have a faulty brush.
Rather than forking out for a new motor, you can strip the old one down in situ without having to go through the lengthy and difficult process of removing it from the bike.
First remove the starter motor gear cover and gear, gear lever, then the magneto cover to reveal the starter motor. Unscrew the two bolts and pull the front casing from the starter motor, slide the shaft out to reveal the brush plate at the back. Unscrew the connector and remove the plate.
Mine had been leaking water through the seal and had seized the upper brush. I freed up the brush and put everything back together.
The whole job took about 3 hours and saved me £120 for a Chinese starter motor and a lot more for a Yamaha one.
-- Edited by roger200 on Sunday 3rd of August 2014 10:30:48 PM
I wheeled one of the TTRs out of the garage to take it to the MOT station and when trying to start it, the solenoid just went click and the starter didn't turn.
It's not jammed, I did a voltage check on the starter motor terminal and the volts don't drops right off like they would if the motor was stalled.
I took a quick look (bearing in mind I need to have it together in 1 hour to take to the test station) and it appears that the positive connection post at the starter motor is loose - not the cable eyelet being loose on the post, but the post itself is loose and wobbling about a bit. Looking at some schematics this threaded post connects to the brushes so I assume there is some sort of connection not taking place as a result of this loose terminal/post, so I'm hoping it'll be a simple fix once I get it back and apart.
Does anyone have a decent picture of the brush holder at the back of the starter so that I have an idea of what I should be looking for when I get inside it later.
For the trip to the MOT station, I'll have to rely on the old right leg!
Do you have any photos of the procedure, particularly the brush plate at the back - I just posted a thread for a similar problem that I think it due to the post being loose a the back - I'd like to see what the brush plate looks like and how the post stub is attached as I think mine's come loose.
See here for the standard way of removing a starter from the TTR without removing the cam chain tensioner which saves a lot of work!
That said, I watched noeyedear (Adrian) use the generator cover removal procedure to change a starter motor and it's very tempting The first part of the sprag clutch replacement procedure will gave the access required - see here
Thanks for the pics Brian - I can see what I need from those.
I'll get the motor out on Sunday probably (might use the generator cover method as I think that'll be a touch easier) and see what I find, hopefully it'll be a quick fix.
Tengo colocado un motor de honda tornado/ twister 250cc en mi ttr; solo que la salida del + no esta para arriba asi que puse la parte trasera vieja del motor de arranque del ttr y SOLUCIONADO.
Translated
I have placed a motor tornado / twister 250cc honda in my ttr; only that the output is not up so i put the old rear of the engine starter and ttr SOLVED.
Didn't someone put on the forum a better way of doing this thought it was something to do with a Honda starter motor Am I dreaming it or where has it gone
Modifying a CBR starter motor to fit a TTR250. I found this little gem in my archive. A bit of a twist on the Fazer motor adaption
Not posted on here before but the Yamaha YBR250 starter motor is 100% identical to the TTR's. The YBR isn't the most common bike but might broaden the search a little! I recently fitted one from a 2009 YBR to my 2002 TTR. I've attached a couple of pics. The YBR starter is the one with the less knackered pinion! Cost me £65 + p&p on ebay from a bike breaker after a little light haggling (easier when you're not face to face!) Mentioned this to Brian while buying some other stuff and he asked me to post it here.
a little while ago i had probs starting my bike I would press the button and it would click but nothing else until I kicked it over and then pressed the button at same time then it would turn over, as I say that was quite a while ago because of the kickstart i did not worry about it, now after giving my poor ttr some tlc at last thought I'd have a look, on pressing button no click tried a wire from battery to top of starter lot of sparks nothing else, took starter off and pulled it apart think it looked ok so sat it back on bike with wires on again and took a wire from battery to top again and just had a load of sparks any thoughts? Is it brushes and solinoid ?
The starter needs a lot of current to turn it so touching a wire to the terminal would spark a lot. If your solenoid is not working properly (ie contacts burnt out or windings weak) it might not supply the necessary current to spin the motor (but could provide enough to turn it with help from the kicker) As it is no longer clicking when you operate it, I would look at this first. Also check the battery cable ends that connect to the battery and solenoid as the eyes can corrode/fracture which will not allow enough juice through. Also check the earth lead connections (battery to starter earth point) and the wire that fires the solenoid (thin one from the switch - if it's broken/corroded through somewhere it might not even provide enough current to fire the solenoid)
Replacement solenoids are cheaper than starters - I'd begin there!
Good luck,
Simon.