A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

domski1 wrote

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Where exactly do you drill and tap to fit the grease nipples and do you use them on your bikes Brian? These sound like a very good idea!

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 You would Drill them in the centre of the bolt head. Although i replaced mine from my old 1994 model. It seems only the older models were fitted with them.

They are a great idea as you can grease them without having to take it apart.

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Jarrah.

domski1 wrote:

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Cool thanks for that, what size grease nipples? M6?

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 Thread measured at 6mm so i'd say M6

The bent one (pictured below) would be M6 (at elbow bend) & M6 in bolt head. This is so you can grease it in the tight spot that it sits.

  All threads are tapped into the shafts that go through the bearings not in the fastening bolts

Jarrah.

Just checked my bolts again, they are both solid, maybe on the earlier ones they are different? ?

domski1 wrote:

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Mine is a 1995 model. There must be holes in the bearing rollar shafts too? Brian might be along shortly to clear up the confusion! Sorry to hi jack your thread with my rusty bolts!

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 To clear up the confusion..

I checked the 1999 model shafts and they don't have holes see (pic below). It must be just the older models that have the holes & grease nipples.

The frame shaft collar already has a hole in it (left side in pic below) That is why i thought it was the shafts that had holes

The other two would need to be drilled in the middle of the shaft (and shaft heads for nipples) as there is is no collar to stop it reaching the bearings.

I can measure how far up the shaft the holes have to be if you like but you can use the collar (pictured left)as a template for the frame mounting shaft (first bolt on left).

They may need slight machining to put a grove in the two short bolts see pic below.

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That should make it clear but ask me if your still not sure.

I don't mind you hi-jacking my thread,it's all good. This thread is open to all questions.

Jarrah.

TTRfan wrote:

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barra8 wrote:

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I checked the 1999 model shafts and they don't have holes see (pic below). It must be just the older models that have the holes & grease nipples.

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 Having looked at the fiche for the last of the white TTRs and compared the linkage arm bolts to those on the early blue models, the white TTRs have "bolts" with grease nipples and the blue TTRs don't. Different part numbers are given for all three bolts.

Compare white fiche here with blue fiche here.

That has also been my experience in working with the different TTRs. I can only reference UK models or imports. Might be different in other continents 

I tend to retrofit the old link bolts with grease nipples to my own TTRs 

Brian

 

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          Just checked my bolts again, they are both solid, maybe on the earlier ones they are different? ?


 

domski1 wrote:

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Mine is a 1995 model. There must be holes in the bearing rollar shafts too? Brian might be along shortly to clear up the confusion! Sorry to hi jack your thread with my rusty bolts!

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Hey brian,

               Domski metioned his didn't have the grease nipples so i think maybe it's only early models eg. 1993-1994 that have them but?? Yet to be detemined

Those are the two different bolts in my pic 1994&1999 so you can cross reference them from the pics above.

Well gotta go now

 

Jarrah.

TTRfan wrote:

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Great stuff Jarrah - look forward to Episode 2 

The difference on the linkage is that you now have grease nipples fitted 

Brian

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barra8 wrote:

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I checked the 1999 model shafts and they don't have holes see (pic below). It must be just the older models that have the holes & grease nipples.

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 Having looked at the fiche for the last of the white TTRs and compared the linkage arm bolts to those on the early blue models, the white TTRs have "bolts" with grease nipples and the blue TTRs don't. Different part numbers are given for all three bolts.

Compare white fiche here with blue fiche here.

That has also been my experience in working with the different TTRs. I can only reference UK models or imports. Might be different in other continents 

I tend to retrofit the old link bolts with grease nipples to my own TTRs 

Brian

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Adam may be unlucky and have had his linkage bolts replaced at some stage in the TTR's life with the later linkage bolts. The fiche don't lie

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The only problem with that  is now more than 3 people have their swingarm linkage replaced.?? And without retaining the old bolts. Maybe just a coincedence but i'm not so sure.

I might add from the look of the bolts they don't look like they have ever been replaced & one is pitted.

Looks like a few old battle scars from loosening too  Especially the lower one,by a guess it looks like someone has tried turning the bolt rather than the nut ''or'' it is just the battle scars of old age suggesting even more that it is the original shafts.

Another point although maybe not so much of a point

My 1999 bolts are the colour silver on the end of the bolt.

The ones below look white or whats left of the paint.

Jarrah.

Won't have time to upload any more pics as i'll be busy working as i have been today. Bloody trucks i'd rather work on my bike any day :)

When i have the time i will upload more though.

Enjoy,

         Jarrah.

I have been doing a little more on my bike but have'nt had much time lately with work ect. It will all come together within the next few weeks though.This is my carby i cleaned & polished. (below)

Before:

After:

Thought i'd update this even though it is only a small change. I have'nt got much of a bike to work on atm so i have just been doing small jobs.

This is after a clean up & i polished the alloy mounts with Turtle wax...

Still have to paint the mounts with Black sparkle paint yet.

Well till next update...Stay tuned.

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Jarrah.

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Jarrah.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

END OF CLEANING SECTION

Thanks Doomski, 

                      The polished parts will probably fade after awhile but will atleast still look good. Hopefully some protectant should sort it out for awhile but may just give them a light clear coat for lasting shine. List of polished parts = swingarm linkage + carby(not much of a list:)

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With the sound of that rain today i don't think i will get much paiting done

Oh well still waiting on a decent camera to take pics with. (in the mail)...

I have been using my laptop as it is the only thing that can upload pics atm. It can take up to ten shots just to get one good one lol  Let me tell you though those ten shots sometimes i am laying on the floor curled up,trying to take a pic without getting any part of my body in the pic. It can be difficult at times 

Jarrah.

Wahooeeeeeee  

                           I have finally ordered & payed for all my parts (apart from a few less important items). Now i will just have to be patient & wait for them to arrive (the hard part:). Also got my Contour + camera & bought a new Samsung Galaxy Ace to go with it,most impressed

I have deliberately left out a few items so it will be a suprize at the end

Won't be long now so....Stay tuned

Hey all,

           Just doing an update for anyone that's curious about how far my 1999 re-build has come. Some of you by now may have thought i'd given up but the battle to get it on the road is nearly at an end & i seem to be on top of it . At the moment (atm) it does'nt feel like that though as i'm back to having not much of a bike to show  

My frame,swingarm,peice of motor is in the paint shop waiting to be color matched perfectly

Just got my barrel back bored to 74mm to fit the 74mm wizeco (I thought about going bigger but just to be safe i went 74mm. Atleast i'll have a few goes at resizing this way).

The head is still in the shop getting the casting imperfections honed/ported & exhaust port polished (polishing the intake side can have the oppisite effect & make fuel puddle instead of atomizing properly & why most high perfomance engine have a bead finish in the intake).I was going to do it myself but for AU $ 88.00 it's hardy worth buying the tools needed to do it properly.

My fuel tank & old gaurds are in the Graphics place still & will be until i get the new front headlight shroud in the mail & take it to him to finish it off.

 So you can see why it seems as though i don't have a bike again

It's looking like a few more weeks before it will all come together but steady steady wins the race (not that i'm racing :). I also updated the first post a little as there was a few slight changes & extra added. Well thanks for reading....Stay tuned

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Jarrah.

Hey all,

           This post has been moved to the top of the page...It was about the cost of re-building.

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Jarrah.

Thanks for the feedback Brian,

                                              Doing the job right takes time i guess but will be worth it in the end. I did get my new camera, it's my new Contour +. Takes great pics & really happy with the quality. ''Galaxy Ace''phone also takes awesome pics so there will be some good pics getting uploaded when i start the rebuild.. Stay tuned

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Jarrah.

The devorse papers were out long ago.. I traded them for all these paper receipts i have here  Looks like i have spent less on the bike too

It should be good,do as it's told & should last me if i give it a bit of loving up now & again. (Can't say the same for women :)

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Jarrah.

There are some expensive bits in the list Jarrah. It is surprising how it all adds up if you are building a project from bought-in parts rather than starting off with a complete bike (working or not).

I am still spending on my project TTR280 and I am up to about £2,300 at the moment. This includes the original cost of the bikes (I got a spare bike to break for parts with the one I restored) plus all the parts at trade prices where possible. I daren't think about costing in my labour!

Brian

 Section 3: Preparing engine

Hey all,

Just doing an update for anyone that's curious about how far my 1999 re-build has come. Some of you by now may have thought i'd given up but the battle to get it on the road is nearly at an end & i seem to be on top of it . At the moment (atm) it does'nt feel like that though as i'm back to having not much of a bike to show

My frame,swingarm,peice of motor is in the paint shop waiting to be color matched perfectly

Just got my barrel back bored to 74mm to fit the 74mm wizeco (I thought about going bigger but just to be safe i went 74mm. Atleast i'll have a few goes at resizing this way).

The head is still in the shop getting the casting imperfections honed/ported & exhaust port polished (polishing the intake side can have the oppisite effect & make fuel puddle instead of atomizing properly & why most high perfomance engine have a bead finish in the intake).I was going to do it myself but for AU $ 88.00 it's hardy worth buying the tools needed to do it properly.

My fuel tank & old gaurds are in the Graphics place still & will be until i get the new front headlight shroud in the mail & take it to him to finish it off.

So you can see why it seems as though i don't have a bike again

It's looking like a few more weeks before it will all come together but steady steady wins the race (not that i'm racing :). I also updated the first post a little as there was a few slight changes & extra added. Well thanks for reading....Stay tuned

.............................................

Got my barrel back awhile ago,bored to 74mm. Looks like there is heaps to go....

I also picked up my head today (no it did'nt drop off :). Had new valves,springs,valve stem seals. Also ported & polished on the exhaust side &  slightly ported (not polished) on the intake..

I will upload more of the ports when i have better light

Until next update....Stay Tuned

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Next update:

I can finally take some decent pics of my ports. I did'nt go to extremeties on the intake ports for a good reason...I did'nt want to be wasting fuel with no go power gain..

First the intake side...

Now the exhaust side ported & slightly polished. May finish off the polishing if i have time...

Until next update...Stay tuned

.................

Jarrah.

End of preparing engine

Next day....

I was quite busy today doing other things but did find a few hours spare to finished the top end engine re-build.

Continuing from my last post.....

• Important info: All drive sprockets & moving parts,clutch plates ,bearings,ect. are oiled with engine oil or assembly lube.

After fitting the pre-oiled cam chain ,oil pump,oil pump drive gear (fitted with new circlip) & (cam chain guide-with loctite) this is what it looked like...

Now it was ready to oil & fit the clutch basket. My clutch holding tool came in handy for tightening the clutch boss nut. This is it fitted with clutch plates after oiling the plates...

• Don't forget to bend the locking tab over when clutch boss nut is tight.
• Never re-use a locking tab that has been bent.

Now to adjust the clutch..(i forgot to take a pic of this so i had to take a pic later on :).

First push the actuator lever in & align it on the mark as shown in the pic below...

To align use the adjuster seen in the next pic until correct.

Now tighten the locking nut adjuster...

To do this screw it all the way in until it lightly seats.

Then back it out roughly a little less than 1/4 of a turn until there is ''standard'' play & tighten locking nut.

The manual says to fit the clutch cover now but i like to be able to see the cam chain.

Time to install piston pin. First a plastic bag was used to stop anything falling into the motor. It was quite easy to install the pin & did'nt need to freeze it but i did put it in the freezer for a little. It was a nice fit & squeezed right on in with the help of some oil. Fitting the piston pin cirlips can be tricky & requires patience.

I also put a smear of gasket goo around the dowels.

Check ring gaps....

• Note: If you are only going 1mm oversize piston filing the ring gaps should not be needed.

Install cylinder barrel.

This is the 74mm Wizeco piston fitted with ring marks up,arrow to the front & ring gaps checked & oiled before fitting...

Install cam chain guide.

At this stage it is ready to install the head but just to be sure i put a little gasket goo around the dowels again.

I also applied some to the head retaining bolts for a nice seal.

Head went on & in with the white packing foam. This was to prevent anything from falling into the motor. I also installed the spark plug to stop anything getting into the cylinder. A peice of wire was used to hold the cam chain from getting caught & the camshafts removed...

When removing camshaft caps special care is needed. The handle end of a screwdriver tapping either side loosens them up. Then a rag is used over a screwdiver so as not to scratch the mating surface...

The head bolts & retaining nuts were oiled & torqued to spec. Something interesting i found is that when the main head bolts are at spec the motor starts to move on stand so it is easy to judge the spec

Oil camshaft journals & install caps.

Now time to check & align the the rotor to TDC... (use a 14mm socket on the rotor bolt to turn motor).

Edited: Special care is needed to insure that the chain does not get caught while lining top dead centre up. To do this pull upwards on the chain keeping the tension on the chain while turning motor to TDC (top dead centre)

Install cam shaft sprockets & cam chain begining with the right side (exhaust) making sure that the camshaft lobes are facing away from each other like the pic below..

Line it up as shown in pic below install one camshaft sprocket bolt finger tight to hold in place. Now do the same with the other until it looks like this..

IMPORTANT: Take note of how the E on the camshafts sit & all marks shown below

• The manual is not very helpfull for this part so line all marks as shown below...

I relized by looking at this thread properly that i had missed a detail out for tightening cam sprocket bolts. This is to stop it putting too much pressure on the chain when tightening.

The drawing on the picture represents a screwdriver ( a little :)

Note: If using this method be carefull not to damage anything!

It looks as though it is wrong but i can assure you this has been double checked. The discrepency is the fact the the rotor outer case is a little out of line from the inside case. This is not a problem but weird it would be made like this??

Anyway time to install the manual cam chain adjuster. This is a bit tricky & i had to double checked it (ten times :). When you set the tension you screw it in finger tight & measure how much play is in the chain when pushed down. The play has to be roughly 2-5mm. Do not overtighten or wear & damage will be the result.

It says in the manual to now fit the head cover . Wonder how many of Mr Yamaha's engines went down the gurgler because they did'nt remember to tighten the Cam shaft sprocket to spec (an unknown spec). I used loctite on the cam sprocket bolts as i don't want them working their way loose.

You are suppose to do the oil filter in all of that but i can't yet as my cover is at the paint shop.

Edited: This was fitting the oil filter...

This was when i installed the K&N oil filter...

Quite easy just unbolt the three 5mm allen keys making sure the three o-rings don't get lost.

Take out the old filter & end rubbers. Install new filter (with the rubbers).

Then install the cover making sure the o-rings are installed properly.

Now i fitted the head cover & clutch cover .... I like to use a high temp silicone on the half moon shapes. (only the bottom surface of the gasket)

Job done.

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I have acquired just about everything now (see first post) Just waiting on the paint & have to take my swingarm & headlight shroud to the graphics place. N1. gaurd is still to arrive in the mail but i'm sure it won't be long. I am unwrapping all the parts for my engine as i write this so i will be uploading the engine top end rebuild soon. Stay tuned

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Jarrah.

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A week or so later....

Okay... now that the boring stuff is over here is a pic of my engine caught sun baking in last light...

Can't wait until the paint cures

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Jarrah.

To Brian

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Thanks for the feedback,great to see

It does seem to be a race to the end with Lin I'm afraid i cannot make my thread any quicker

The rings are just like any other rings. This should help.....

Edited: If you are only going 1mm oversize filing the ring gap should not be needed.

It is just the same as an OEM piston ''kit''.

Hope that helps?? Basically you just put them in a cross as pictured above.

The manual tensioner is an easy fitment but takes a bit of checking. It's not hard i just am a little concerned at getting it spot on. (plus i always double check my work. It's a habit :)

The pics from about half way down my thread are all taken from my Galaxy Ace phone & i'm impressed with the quality. 5 Mp apparently but seems better than 5.

Edited : I'm pretty sure you should be able to see in this thread where i changed from my laptop to my Galaxy Ace phone.

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To Steve,

              Glad to see my re-build thread is of some interest to people. It takes a lot of extra time to document it all but worth it in the end when you get feedback like this.

If you ever need a re-build i would be glad to help...aslong as your shouting the trip down & back lolz  It may be cheaper to hire a local mechanic  $$$$

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Jarrah.

Hey Barra, I've been watching your rebuild with interest, If I ever kill my engine you interested in A rebuild project     

I hope I never have to find out !

Cheers