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Post Info TOPIC: 2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild nearly finished''


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2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild nearly finished''
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Hello to all you TTR fans out there,
                                                  I have been doing a little on my bike lately now that i have one again lol. I thought i would do a preview of bulding my 1999 model TTR250LC.This will be just to show how far i have got & what methods i used. It will be my article (preview) until i am ready to build it (about a mth). I still don't have all the parts required as it is a slow and expensive process but i think it is worth every cent i pay. I thought that this may get in the way of my next article & also that i have time ''now & again'' to do it. I will add more to this as i go . If you have any questions be sure to reply.


First i would like to take this opportunity to formerly introduce myself. My name is Jarrah as some of you might already know from some of my other posts.I work as a general maintenance handyman so do a wide range of jobs. I like working on engines ect. and it has been a part of my life since a young age.This will be my 4th time i have rebuild a motorbike of my own so i'm hoping all goes as smoothly as the other three previous rebuilds.
 
I originaly bought an old 1994 TTR250 but it had seen better days. It had burnt out wiring and a mess (rats nest) where the wiring harness should have been. It took me some time (and a bit of trial & error) but finally progress was made. I made up a temporary wiring harness which i later replaced.
It still had a few problems like eg.,broken choke,flat spot in carby,welded kickstart,no starter motor but had that all sorted in no time (except the welded kickstarter).
The comfort and riding position along with it's smooth engine and 6-speed gearbox soon had me adoring it . It went for some time with no drama's except a broken carby needle it was a reliable bike. When the engine seized from the oil plug being stripped and rattling loose (low oil-not tight enough) i thought maybe it was'nt that bad and i would only have to replace minor components.
 
 I then dissasembled the engine only to find a broken piston,cracked barrel,broken crankshaft balancer,broken gearbox,worn crankshaft gear
 It was time for a complete rebuild so i thought i would scrap that bike and build a new(er) one. Most of the parts and components on the old one were rendered useless (or not worth fixing/too old looking) so i pretty much started from scratch.
 I do not want to mod it too much yet as i'm not sure about the laws  and i have to get it registered soon.
 
UPDATED :pic of MY OLD bike i dug out from an old ph
 
 
 


And the FAQ

..............................................................................................................................................

 
 
Thanks for reading,
Cheers.
 
..............................................................................................................................................................................................
 Section 1: Parts & paint
 
Below is the list of parts acquired or acquiring for the job. There still is more to come but i'll update this when i think of them :)
As you can see from below it's going to be a bitza bike but i don't mind because i'm ''wrapped'' with the parts i acquired
...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Parts:
...................................... 
Engine
......................................
2003 TTr bottom end  Acquired
Wizeco 74mm piston kit  Acquired
1994 cylinder barrel    Acquired
2005 Cylinder head    Acquired
New OEM valves & springs   Acquired
New OEM Timing chain & components   Acquired
Manual Cam Chain Tensioner  Acquired 
GTYR Kickstarter kit  Acquired   Does'nt fit lol no Now a mates christmas present :)
1 x NGK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUG CR9EIX CR9E-IX    Acquired
 
 
......................................
 
 Braking:
.....................................
04 master cylinder (back)   Acquired 
04 front & back calipers     Acquired
High volume oil capacity master cylinder (front) Acquired 
Caltric Sintered Brake pads  Acquired 
......................................
Gearing
......................................
13T front    Acquired
Rental 52t rear sprocket (blue)  Opting for TALON ALLOY RADIALITE  YZ 125 250 80-98 51T Acquired
110 link O-ring chain (blue)       Acquired
 .........................................
Frame & components
..........................................
1999 model frame (blue)                Acquired
2004 front forks                            Acquired
New black gaiters (from Brian)       Acquired
2004 swing-arm                            Acquired
1999 swing-arm linkage                 Acquired
02 Chain block                               Acquired
New chain roller                            Acquired
04 seat  Acquired                  
O4 fuel tank  Acquired
Renthal handlebars (blue)  Acquired 
Longer cables & 6mm spacers (from Brian)  Acquired
All balls Steering Stem Bearing Seals  Acquired
New Speedometer Speedo Cable for Yamaha IT175 IT200 IT250 TT600 WR250 WR400  Acquired
New OEM headlamp/components & bulb  Acquired
...........................................
 
Plastics
...........................................
New OEM front fender    Acquired 
New OEM rear fender  Acquired 
New OEM side covers (N1. from Brian) Acquired
New OEM fork gaurd  Acquired 
New OEM US headlight shroud  Acquired 
CYCRA MX HANDGUARDS STEALTH  (blue) Acquired
.........................................
 
 Carburettor & exhaust
...........................................
Stage 1-3 Jet Kit 6 Sigma   Acquired
 
FMF 4Q muffler FMF 4Q muffler  Acquired
GYT-R Two-Stage Foam Air Filter  Acquired 
Standard header pipe (unrestricted)  Acquired
........................................................................................                            
I have tried hard to find a cheaper place to buy a suitable paint but came up empty. No longer can you ship paint without a hazardous substance container.cry
I'm now using Dupont in the colours below...
 
Paint colours:

 

I thought i would update this incase anyone is interested.

 

 

                                                                                                     Barra's  1999-2012 Motorcycle Paint Reference Chart

                                                                                                                                  

MODEL                  MODEL CODE                     COLOR NAME                       COMPONENT                    COLOR NAME                             PAINT CODE                PAINT CODE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   YAMAHA                    COLOR-RITE

TT-R250                5GFD / 5GFE                        Team Yamaha Blue/              FrameN1*        Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C                              0564 (DPBMC)               5815

TT-R250R/C                                                     White                                    FRAME N2*      Deep Purplish Blue Solid E                                 0583 (DPBSE)                5829

                                                                                                                         Engine*     Universal aluminium  (High temp)                      SP127

                                                                                                           Swing arm/Forks*     Machine Silver                                                 Ford 2QTC  (CR)

                                                                                                                          Wheels*    Sunlight Silver                                                 Mazda  22V

                                                                                                                   Components*    Gloss Black                                                     GB400 

                                                                                                          Clear coat additive*    Vibrance Prizmatique pigment                           DX78

                                                                                                                                                                                                

...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

                                                                    

 

 

.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

 

If you want to check out more Yamaha colours & codes you can use the helpfull pdf files below.

Note: It can be hard to to to find Yamaha paint codes & my nearest paint store had to mix it for me (after weeks of matching it to my frame).

http://pure-2-stroke-spirit.info/download/yamaha_color_codes.pdf

 
 
..............................................................................................
 
 
....................................................................................................................
 
 


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TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

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Thanks Brian,

                    Good spotting , also it is the wrong way around smile I will have to sort that when i install it smile

.................................................................................................................................................................

Thought i'd use this post to update the cost of things...

.................................................................................................................................................................................................................

Hey all,

Just thought i'd update this thread for anyone interested in how much it has costed so far. The prices are below...

..........................................................

Spark plug $13.07.

Handgaurds $44.95

All balls Steering kit $39.23

Pro taper hand grips $22.45

Cosmetic top end gaskets $34.06

Renthal enduro handlebars $92.55

New aftermarket speedo cable $19.47

Engine mounts $38.98

Sigma Jet kit $51.08

Inline fuel filter 6-8mm $12.00

Manual cam chain tensioner $53.87

Blue fuel line 5-6 mm $14.83

Blue billet fuel breather $5.45

Caltic sintered brake pads (front & back) $62.49

Front wheel $199.78

Volar 0-ring chain 520 110L $84.76

Talon 51T ultralight sprocket $57.85

GYT-R two stage air filter $40.83

Chain roller $14.87

Cylinder head $552.67

Rubber frame mount $14.87

Brake components $235.10

Chain guide $34.01

Swingarm $178.14

Front forks $300.00

Linkage $61.39

Bottom end $519.32

Wizeco piston kit $156.72

Cylinder barrel $206.05

K&N oil filter $15.00

Cylinder rebore $130.00

Ported & polished head,valves reseated ect. $90.00

Frame $690.00

Speedometer ass. $140.00

Gaiters & sump plug $61.11

AB Upper Chain Roller Yamaha TTR250 1999-2006 $31.17

Suzuki DRZ400 Yamaha TTR250 Dry Cell Battery AGM 12V Motorcycle YT7BBS MB7U $55.00

2000 yamaha ttr250 ttr 250 tt250r stock OEM head pipe exhaust muffler system $99.77

MBK OVETTO BLUE 5-6 MM PETROL FUEL LINE PIPE HOSE $21.00

Motorcycle Horn ''For Road Registration'' $26.90

YAMAHA PARTS TTR250 ENDURO AIR BOX - TT250R TTR 250 R 4GY 1993 94 $39.90

Aluminium Handlebar Bar Mirrors suitable for Yamaha TTR TT600R TTR600 TTR250 $46.90

 

.....................................................................................

Optional items

Nos kit $26.00

10 MicroBurst NOS Pressurized Nitrous Oxide Injection Refill Large 20cc Bottles $36.37

 

 

............................................

Powersportsplus.com orders

 

 

Boats.net order

$71.73

...............................................................................................................

Sticker kit $70 cheap cheap biggrin but good quality perforated graphics.

B&B bashplate & seat rack $300.00

B&B frame gaurds $125.00

FMF 4Q $310.00

Back rim $310.00

Front rim $210.00

2008 model shocky $AU $140.00

Rear pegs $35.00

 
Ttr250 Side Stand Switch $27.00
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

............................................................................

Paint:

TT-R250 5GFD / 5GFE Team Yamaha Blue/ FrameN1* Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C 0564 (DPBMC) 5815   $77.00      

TT-R250R/C White FRAME N2* Deep Purplish Blue Solid E 0583 (DPBSE) 5829  $70.00

Engine* Universal aluminium (High temp) SP127 $17.00

Swing arm/Forks* Machine Silver Ford 2QTC (CR) $64.00

Wheels* Sunlight Silver Mazda22V $66.00

Components* Gloss Black GB400 $70

Clear coat* De Beer  $115.00

Clear coat additive* Vibrance Prizmatique pigment DX78 $170.00 (mates rates)

Thinners $180.00

.................................................................................

 ALL PRICES ARE WITH SHIPPING INCLUDED (..well most anyway )

I still have quite a few things i have missed & would take alot of going through my reciepts to update in full.

Well thanks for reading & until next update.....Stay tuned

................

Jarrah.



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



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1999 model TTR250LC Build ''Preview''
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domski1 wrote

 


 

Where exactly do you drill and tap to fit the grease nipples and do you use them on your bikes Brian? These sound like a very good idea!


 You would Drill them in the centre of the bolt head. Although i replaced mine from my old 1994 model. It seems only the older models were fitted with them.

They are a great idea as you can grease them without having to take it apart.

.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 13th of September 2012 05:11:08 PM

__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Preview''
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domski1 wrote:

I thought you drilled in the actual linkage so the grease goes straight into the bearings like on the lowering links?


 You could do either method for the swingarm connecting bolt (pictured above)  but the other two would have to be drilled in the centre of the bolt head.

.........................................................................................................................................................................................................

Jarrah.



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Rebuild started''
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domski1 wrote:

Cool thanks for that, what size grease nipples? M6?


 Thread measured at 6mm so i'd say M6

The bent one (pictured below) would be M6 (at elbow bend) & M6 in bolt head. This is so you can grease it in the tight spot that it sits.

  All threads are tapped into the shafts that go through the bearings not in the fastening bolts

Jarrah.

 



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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1999 model TTR250LC Build ''Preview''
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domski1 wrote:

Still a bit confused, you will need to drill into the bolt then half way to so along the bolt drill down to meet the first hole so there is a way through for the grease, then the grease will still have to get past the roller to the bearing?


 No,you would only have to do as mentioned above eg.You would Drill them in the centre of the bolt head.

The shafts that you tap the threads into have holes in the middle of the shaft for the grease to push through. Even the ones without the grease nipples already installed.

.......................................................................................................................................................................................................

Jarrah.

 

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 13th of September 2012 06:49:23 PM

__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Senior Member

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1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Preview''
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Just checked my bolts again, they are both solid, maybe on the earlier ones they are different? ?


CB2C1BAD-4A0A-47F6-9F57-FBC15ED20770-10333-00000839B48AF482.jpg



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domski1 wrote:

Just checked my bolts again, they are both solid, maybe on the earlier ones they are different? ?


 Funny that the 1999 swingarm link that i bought had the holes already?? I did buy it from the usa so maybe why?? Could be just year models?

What model is yours??

In that case you would have to drill (about a mm or so) a hole in the middle of the shaft aswell as tap the thread in the shaft head.

................................................................................................................................................................................................

Jarrah.



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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Date:
1999 model TTR250LC Build ''Preview''
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domski1 wrote:

Mine is a 1995 model. There must be holes in the bearing rollar shafts too? Brian might be along shortly to clear up the confusion! Sorry to hi jack your thread with my rusty bolts!


 To clear up the confusion..

I checked the 1999 model shafts and they don't have holes see (pic below). It must be just the older models that have the holes & grease nipples.

The frame shaft collar already has a hole in it (left side in pic below) That is why i thought it was the shafts that had holes cry

The other two would need to be drilled in the middle of the shaft (and shaft heads for nipples) as there is is no collar to stop it reaching the bearings.

I can measure how far up the shaft the holes have to be if you like but you can use the collar (pictured left)as a template for the frame mounting shaft (first bolt on left).

 

They may need slight machining to put a grove in the two short bolts see pic below.

.................................................................................................................................................................

That should make it clear but ask me if your still not sure.

I don't mind you hi-jacking my thread,it's all good. This thread is open to all questions.

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 13th of September 2012 09:32:40 PM

__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Preview''
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Well im off to fix & service a truck today so hope yaz all have a good day. I'm sure it will be better than mine biggrin

.............................................................................................................................................................

Laterz,

         Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 13th of September 2012 10:03:19 PM

__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild nearly finished''
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TTRfan wrote:
barra8 wrote:
I checked the 1999 model shafts and they don't have holes see (pic below). It must be just the older models that have the holes & grease nipples.

 Having looked at the fiche for the last of the white TTRs and compared the linkage arm bolts to those on the early blue models, the white TTRs have "bolts" with grease nipples and the blue TTRs don't. Different part numbers are given for all three bolts.

Compare white fiche here with blue fiche here.

That has also been my experience in working with the different TTRs. I can only reference UK models or imports. Might be different in other continents biggrin

I tend to retrofit the old link bolts with grease nipples to my own TTRs wink

Brian

 


 
          Just checked my bolts again, they are both solid, maybe on the earlier ones they are different? ?


 

domski1 wrote:

Mine is a 1995 model. There must be holes in the bearing rollar shafts too? Brian might be along shortly to clear up the confusion! Sorry to hi jack your thread with my rusty bolts!

......................................................................................................................................................

Hey brian,

               Domski metioned his didn't have the grease nipples so i think maybe it's only early models eg. 1993-1994 that have them but?? Yet to be deteminedconfuse

Those are the two different bolts in my pic 1994&1999 so you can cross reference them from the pics above.

Well gotta go now

 

Jarrah.

 



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Super Guru

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RE: 1999 model TTR250LC Build ''Preview''
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Great stuff Jarrah - look forward to Episode 2 wink

The difference on the linkage is that you now have grease nipples fitted biggrin

Brian



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TTRfan wrote:

Great stuff Jarrah - look forward to Episode 2 wink

The difference on the linkage is that you now have grease nipples fitted biggrin

Brian


Where exactly do you drill and tap to fit the grease nipples and do you use them on your bikes Brian? These sound like a very good idea!

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I thought you drilled in the actual linkage so the grease goes straight into the bearings like on the lowering links?




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Cool thanks for that, what size grease nipples? M6?

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Still a bit confused, you will need to drill into the bolt then half way to so along the bolt drill down to meet the first hole so there is a way through for the grease, then the grease will still have to get past the roller to the bearing?

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Mine is a 1995 model. There must be holes in the bearing rollar shafts too? Brian might be along shortly to clear up the confusion! Sorry to hi jack your thread with my rusty bolts!

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RE: 1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Preview''
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Thanks for making that clear jarrah, I may keep a look out for some bolts that already have the nipples in as like you say it looks like there is a bit of machining involved and I bet the bolts are made out of hard stuff! Thanks again and have a good day!

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barra8 wrote:
I checked the 1999 model shafts and they don't have holes see (pic below). It must be just the older models that have the holes & grease nipples.

 Having looked at the fiche for the last of the white TTRs and compared the linkage arm bolts to those on the early blue models, the white TTRs have "bolts" with grease nipples and the blue TTRs don't. Different part numbers are given for all three bolts.

Compare white fiche here with blue fiche here.

That has also been my experience in working with the different TTRs. I can only reference UK models or imports. Might be different in other continents biggrin

I tend to retrofit the old link bolts with grease nipples to my own TTRs wink

Brian



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Adam may be unlucky and have had his linkage bolts replaced at some stage in the TTR's life with the later linkage bolts. The fiche don't lie wink



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........................................................................................................................................................................

Adam may be unlucky and have had his linkage bolts replaced at some stage in the TTR's life with the later linkage bolts. The fiche don't lie wink

.............................................................................................................................................................

The only problem with that  is now more than 3 people have their swingarm linkage replaced.?? And without retaining the old bolts. Maybe just a coincedence but i'm not so sure.

I might add from the look of the bolts they don't look like they have ever been replaced & one is pitted.

Looks like a few old battle scars from loosening too smile Especially the lower one,by a guess it looks like someone has tried turning the bolt rather than the nut ''or'' it is just the battle scars of old age suggesting even more that it is the original shafts.

Another point although maybe not so much of a point

My 1999 bolts are the colour silver on the end of the bolt.

The ones below look white or whats left of the paint.

 

 

CB2C1BAD-4A0A-47F6-9F57-FBC15ED20770-10333-00000839B48AF482.jpg

Jarrah.



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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Posts: 932
Date:
2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild nearly finished''
Permalink  
 


domski1 wrote:

Thanks for making that clear jarrah, I may keep a look out for some bolts that already have the nipples in as like you say it looks like there is a bit of machining involved and I bet the bolts are made out of hard stuff! Thanks again and have a good day!


 No problems,good to see people showing interest in my thread. If you have any other questions along the way feel free to post (reply). Same goes for everyone.

Enjoy,

        Jarrah.



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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Posts: 932
Date:
RE: 1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Preview''
Permalink  
 


Won't have time to upload any more pics as i'll be busy working as i have been today. Bloody trucks i'd rather work on my bike any day :)

When i have the time i will upload more though.

Enjoy,

         Jarrah.



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



Guru

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Posts: 932
Date:
1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Rebuild started''
Permalink  
 


Section 2: Cleaning components
 
Since i have already cleaned most of my components i thought i would add my tricks on cleaning and protecting components. Quite simple really but some people may want to know. I am a little old fashioned when it comes to this so most of you may have easier ways. This is just the most simple & and cheapest way i have found while still getting it done properly.
 
Cleaning:
..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Aluminium surface
........................................................................................................
Kero & household Washing powder (degreasing)
''Copper'' wire brush Mineral turp
Metal polish or Cut & polish
........................................................................................................
......................................................................................................................................................
 
Plastic & rubber surface
..................................................................................................................................
Pure soap & warm water
For fuel tanks or plastic gaurds i use Turtle wax & buff with an old towel
Rubber grease applied when clean for that new look & protection
..................................................................................................................................
........................................................................................................................................................
 
Gasket surface
....................................................................
''Copper'' wire brush & kero
Razorblade
....................................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
 
Painting preporation
..............................................................................
600-800 grit sandpaper
Mineral turps or wax & grease remover for oily surfaces
.................................................................................
.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
 
I don't have pictured for all the items before i cleaned them. Either i did'nt have time to photogragh them or i was too keen to get it done but i wil discribe the methods used & condition it was in before i started. Sorry about the bad pics i will be getting a better camera soon.
Okay now let start with the more exciting part..
 
This is is a picture of the 1999 swing-arm linkage before i buffed it with cut & polish & Turtle wax
Edited: Pic got deleted from ebay & forgot to save it cry
 
 
Can you spot the differences between the above pic & below?? (Not the fact it looks better below :)
 
 
564351_466496346717175_1360287987_n.jpg
 
.........................................................................................................................................................................................................
This is pics of my fuel tank after buffing with Turtle wax.
Before i did this it had no shine,minor scratching & had yellowish brown stains from fuel ect.
It looks better than this but it's the best pics i could take.
557394_466506076716202_1840349998_n.jpg
381215_466502353383241_663382191_n.jpg
318357_466509736715836_1474216477_n.jpg393353_466509666715843_1188353132_n.jpg
.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................
This is my air box after cleaning & applying Rubber grease (below)
Before i did this it looked old & greyish (like an old man :)
423924_466546506712159_25845028_n.jpg
251011_466546853378791_1973009954_n.jpg

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This is the most complete it will be until i start on it.
 
 
 
 
 
..................................................................................................................................................................................
Jarrah.


 

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 25th of December 2012 05:40:48 AM

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I have been doing a little more on my bike but have'nt had much time lately with work ect. It will all come together within the next few weeks though.This is my carby i cleaned & polished. (below)

Before:

 

After:

 

 


 

Thought i'd update this even though it is only a small change. I have'nt got much of a bike to work on atm so i have just been doing small jobs.

This is after a clean up & i polished the alloy mounts with Turtle wax...

 

Still have to paint the mounts with Black sparkle paint yet.

Well till next update...Stay tuned.

..................

Jarrah.

 

 

.................................................................................................................................

Jarrah.


 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

END OF CLEANING SECTION

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 25th of December 2012 05:42:25 AM

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RE: 1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Preview''
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It may seem as if i am getting nowhere (fast;) but i am actually starting to make good progress. Still waiting on parts to arrive before i can go any futher but here is a few things i have done while waiting (impatiently :)

Just been cleaning up my wiring harness ect. Soon to be spraying the frame ect. (if the weather holds out).

I updated the parts list a little so not far now....Stay tuned

................

Jarrah.



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Thanks Doomski, 

                      The polished parts will probably fade after awhile but will atleast still look good. Hopefully some protectant should sort it out for awhile but may just give them a light clear coat for lasting shine. List of polished parts = swingarm linkage + carby(not much of a list:)

..............

With the sound of that rain today i don't think i will get much paiting done cry

Oh well still waiting on a decent camera to take pics with. (in the mail)...

I have been using my laptop as it is the only thing that can upload pics atm. It can take up to ten shots just to get one good one lol smile Let me tell you though those ten shots sometimes i am laying on the floor curled up,trying to take a pic without getting any part of my body in the pic. It can be difficult at times biggrin

Jarrah.

                        


 



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 2nd of October 2012 09:39:33 PM

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Cheers Brian & yeah takes a bit of dedication (& practice at being a contortionist) but i seem to manage to get just acceptable pics smile

Can't wait until my new contour camera & video recorder,gps ect. ect.gets here biggrin

..............

Jarrah.


 



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 2nd of October 2012 11:27:12 PM

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Looking good jarrah, you will have your work cut out when you get the bike finished keeping in top of all the polished parts!

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barra8 wrote:

I have been using my laptop as it is the only thing that can upload pics atm. It can take up to ten shots just to get one good one lol smile Let me tell you though those ten shots sometimes i am laying on the floor curled up,trying to take a pic without getting any part of my body in the pic. It can be difficult at times biggrin


 I admire your dedication Jarrah wink



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Wahooeeeeeee biggrin 

                           I have finally ordered & payed for all my parts (apart from a few less important items). Now i will just have to be patient & wait for them to arrive (the hard part:). Also got my Contour + camera & bought a new Samsung Galaxy Ace to go with it,most impressed

I have deliberately left out a few items so it will be a suprize at the end biggrin

Won't be long now so....Stay tuned biggrin


 



-- Edited by barra8 on Friday 5th of October 2012 11:56:44 PM

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Oh i forgot to add that i took a plunge into buying a kickstarter kit from a different model

If it fits i'll let yaz all know the replacement part number ect. biggrin

If it does'nt i'll be feeling very sorry for myself cry

I have checked parts numbers & decoded it,also called my local dealer to verify but he was about as sure as i am confuse

Wish me luck biggrin



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Hey all,

           Just doing an update for anyone that's curious about how far my 1999 re-build has come. Some of you by now may have thought i'd given up but the battle to get it on the road is nearly at an end & i seem to be on top of it biggrin. At the moment (atm) it does'nt feel like that though as i'm back to having not much of a bike to show blankstare 

My frame,swingarm,peice of motor is in the paint shop waiting to be color matched perfectly aww

Just got my barrel back bored to 74mm to fit the 74mm wizeco (I thought about going bigger but just to be safe i went 74mm. Atleast i'll have a few goes at resizing this way).

The head is still in the shop getting the casting imperfections honed/ported & exhaust port polished (polishing the intake side can have the oppisite effect & make fuel puddle instead of atomizing properly & why most high perfomance engine have a bead finish in the intake).I was going to do it myself but for AU $ 88.00 it's hardy worth buying the tools needed to do it properly.

My fuel tank & old gaurds are in the Graphics place still & will be until i get the new front headlight shroud in the mail & take it to him to finish it off.

 So you can see why it seems as though i don't have a bike againbleh

It's looking like a few more weeks before it will all come together but steady steady wins the race (not that i'm racing :). I also updated the first post a little as there was a few slight changes & extra added. Well thanks for reading....Stay tuned biggrin

.............................................

Jarrah.



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Thanks Adam,

                     It's cost me about AU $5011.00 so far. I will update how much it costs all up in the end. It should be well worth it as i will have a new bike (or as close as possible) that is upgraded slightly. It should look better than new (in my opinion) & will be doing more mods once i find out more about the laws ect. Don't want a bike thats illegal to ride on the road so yeah. Well until the next update....Stay tuned.

.........................

Jarrah.

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Wednesday 17th of October 2012 01:33:24 PM

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Hey all,

           This post has been moved to the top of the page...It was about the cost of re-building.

....................................

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 4th of December 2012 11:33:11 AM

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Thanks for the update Jarrah. I think it took nearly 2 months to get my project bile's engine back from blasting and spraying and it is easy to lose momentum on the rebuild.

Looking forward to the next update. wink

Did you get your new camera?

Brian



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Thanks for the feedback Brian,

                                              Doing the job right takes time i guess but will be worth it in the end. I did get my new camera, it's my new Contour +. Takes great pics & really happy with the quality. ''Galaxy Ace''phone also takes awesome pics so there will be some good pics getting uploaded when i start the rebuild.. Stay tuned biggrin

...............................

Jarrah.



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Keep up the good work jarrah, you are putting a lot of time and money into the bike so I am expecting a fantastic result!


Adam.

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The devorse papers were out long ago.. I traded them for all these paper receipts i have here smile Looks like i have spent less on the bike too biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

It should be good,do as it's told & should last me if i give it a bit of loving up now & again. (Can't say the same for women :)biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

...................................

Jarrah.

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Wednesday 17th of October 2012 06:30:20 PM

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So that's £3731.43 in English money, my mrs would have had the divorce papers out! You will end up with a seriously good bike at the end of it though jarrah!

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There are some expensive bits in the list Jarrah. It is surprising how it all adds up if you are building a project from bought-in parts rather than starting off with a complete bike (working or not).

I am still spending on my project TTR280 and I am up to about £2,300 at the moment. This includes the original cost of the bikes (I got a spare bike to break for parts with the one I restored) plus all the parts at trade prices where possible. I daren't think about costing in my labour!

Brian



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1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Rebuild started''
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This thread may not read right but all info is in sections now as i'm making it more managable & readable.

Thanks all for your contribution.

.................

Jarrah.


 


 

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 25th of December 2012 05:39:13 AM

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 Section 3: Preparing engine

Hey all,

Just doing an update for anyone that's curious about how far my 1999 re-build has come. Some of you by now may have thought i'd given up but the battle to get it on the road is nearly at an end & i seem to be on top of it biggrin. At the moment (atm) it does'nt feel like that though as i'm back to having not much of a bike to show blankstare

My frame,swingarm,peice of motor is in the paint shop waiting to be color matched perfectly aww

Just got my barrel back bored to 74mm to fit the 74mm wizeco (I thought about going bigger but just to be safe i went 74mm. Atleast i'll have a few goes at resizing this way).

The head is still in the shop getting the casting imperfections honed/ported & exhaust port polished (polishing the intake side can have the oppisite effect & make fuel puddle instead of atomizing properly & why most high perfomance engine have a bead finish in the intake).I was going to do it myself but for AU $ 88.00 it's hardy worth buying the tools needed to do it properly.

My fuel tank & old gaurds are in the Graphics place still & will be until i get the new front headlight shroud in the mail & take it to him to finish it off.

So you can see why it seems as though i don't have a bike againbleh

It's looking like a few more weeks before it will all come together but steady steady wins the race (not that i'm racing :). I also updated the first post a little as there was a few slight changes & extra added. Well thanks for reading....Stay tuned biggrin

.............................................

Got my barrel back awhile ago,bored to 74mm. Looks like there is heaps to go....

 

 

I also picked up my head today (no it did'nt drop off :). Had new valves,springs,valve stem seals. Also ported & polished on the exhaust side &  slightly ported (not polished) on the intake..

 

I will upload more of the ports when i have better light

 

Until next update....Stay Tuned biggrin

...................

Next update:


 

I can finally take some decent pics of my ports. I did'nt go to extremeties on the intake ports for a good reason...I did'nt want to be wasting fuel with no go power gain..

First the intake side...

 

Now the exhaust side ported & slightly polished. May finish off the polishing if i have time...

 

Until next update...Stay tuned wink

.................

Jarrah.

 

 

End of preparing engine



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 25th of December 2012 05:49:59 AM

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2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild nearly finished''
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Section 4: Re-building engine

I thought i would move this post down for the Top end engine re-build tommorrow. That way the engine stuff will be together.wink

 

Anyway i thought i would start on the top end rebuild without the kickstarter as i can add that later once i sort it out. This is my bottom end complete..

Now with the cover removed with a 5mm allen key on a ratchet with extention bar with a 3/16 socket over the allen key...

 

Next stage..take the clutch plates out making sure they come out evenly...

Note: Do not take the bolts out one at a time or the springs may need replacing afterwards.

 

Now on with my ''special'' clutch holding tool...(looks pretty damn good with the engine stand smile ).

I made this tool so i could hold the motor from turning while removing the clutch boss nut (pictured centre of clutch boss)...

Note : Anyone interested in seeing more on the ''special'' tools & how i made them click here... Homemade ''Special'' tools

First job is flaten the locking washer the nut . (I did this with a medium screwdriver,starting off with a small one) I then removed the clutch boss nut with a 27mm socket & breaker bar.

I like to use the shock treatment (hammer onto breaker bar) myself to crack the nut as this can be a little tricky to remove.

 

Once the nut was removed it was time for my other ''special'' tool for removing the clutch boss.

Very simple just M6 bolts,an old holden radiator fan cut down & a rear ford diff bolt with the nut welded to the old fan....

 

 

It makes short work of removing the clutch boss & only needed to re-screw the M6 bolts once to get it all the way off.

Now that the clutch boss is off the clutch basket just slides off....

 

It is now time to remove the oil pump gear & old cam chain guide............

 

& out with the old cam chain (timing). Notice the camera getting foggy from oil by this stage smile

 

I also lined it up to top dead centre at this point while the chain was free.

Now that i have room i took the opportunity to clean the oil pump. (not that this was needed)

 

Four big philips head screws hold it on (as seen above).. On this occasion one was tight so i used & pair of vice grips over the screwdriver to loosen it. (it worked a treat)

To re-assemble the oil pump is a little tricky...

First coat the inside with fresh oil after cleaning...

You line up the little pin (in the shaft) sideways evenly (as shown in pic below) & then line up the marks on the oil pump (as shown in pic below)...

 

It was at this stage that i relized i need a light duty torque wrench lol. I rang a mate & it will be here soon.

I will keep going if i can get decent pics (it's nearly night here). Otherwize i will just call it a day & start tommorrow.

Thanks for reading...Stay tuned...smile

.......................

Jarrah.

 



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Next day....


 

I was quite busy today doing other things but did find a few hours spare to finished the top end engine re-build.

Continuing from my last post.....

  • Important info: All drive sprockets & moving parts,clutch plates ,bearings,ect. are oiled with engine oil or assembly lube.

After fitting the pre-oiled cam chain ,oil pump,oil pump drive gear (fitted with new circlip) & (cam chain guide-with loctite) this is what it looked like...

Now it was ready to oil & fit the clutch basket. My clutch holding tool came in handy for tightening the clutch boss nut. This is it fitted with clutch plates after oiling the plates...

  • Don't forget to bend the locking tab over when clutch boss nut is tight.
  • Never re-use a locking tab that has been bent.

 

 

Now to adjust the clutch..(i forgot to take a pic of this so i had to take a pic later on :).

First push the actuator lever in & align it on the mark as shown in the pic below...

To align use the adjuster seen in the next pic until correct.

 

Now tighten the locking nut adjuster...

To do this screw it all the way in until it lightly seats.

Then back it out roughly a little less than 1/4 of a turn until there is ''standard'' play & tighten locking nut.

 

The manual says to fit the clutch cover now but i like to be able to see the cam chain.

Time to install piston pin. First a plastic bag was used to stop anything falling into the motor. It was quite easy to install the pin & did'nt need to freeze it but i did put it in the freezer for a little. It was a nice fit & squeezed right on in with the help of some oil. Fitting the piston pin cirlips can be tricky & requires patience.

I also put a smear of gasket goo around the dowels.

Check ring gaps....

  • Note: If you are only going 1mm oversize piston filing the ring gaps should not be needed.

 

Install cylinder barrel.

This is the 74mm Wizeco piston fitted with ring marks up,arrow to the front & ring gaps checked & oiled before fitting...

Install cam chain guide.

At this stage it is ready to install the head but just to be sure i put a little gasket goo around the dowels again.

I also applied some to the head retaining bolts for a nice seal.

 

Head went on & in with the white packing foam. This was to prevent anything from falling into the motor. I also installed the spark plug to stop anything getting into the cylinder. A peice of wire was used to hold the cam chain from getting caught & the camshafts removed...

When removing camshaft caps special care is needed. The handle end of a screwdriver tapping either side loosens them up. Then a rag is used over a screwdiver so as not to scratch the mating surface...

 

The head bolts & retaining nuts were oiled & torqued to spec. Something interesting i found is that when the main head bolts are at spec the motor starts to move on stand so it is easy to judge the spec wink

Oil camshaft journals & install caps.

Now time to check & align the the rotor to TDC... (use a 14mm socket on the rotor bolt to turn motor).

Edited: Special care is needed to insure that the chain does not get caught while lining top dead centre up. To do this pull upwards on the chain keeping the tension on the chain while turning motor to TDC (top dead centre)

 

Install cam shaft sprockets & cam chain begining with the right side (exhaust) making sure that the camshaft lobes are facing away from each other like the pic below..

Line it up as shown in pic below install one camshaft sprocket bolt finger tight to hold in place. Now do the same with the other until it looks like this..

IMPORTANT: Take note of how the E on the camshafts sit & all marks shown below

  • The manual is not very helpfull for this part so line all marks as shown below...

I relized by looking at this thread properly that i had missed a detail out for tightening cam sprocket bolts. This is to stop it putting too much pressure on the chain when tightening.

The drawing on the picture represents a screwdriver ( a little :)

Note: If using this method be carefull not to damage anything!

 

It looks as though it is wrong but i can assure you this has been double checked. The discrepency is the fact the the rotor outer case is a little out of line from the inside case. This is not a problem but weird it would be made like this??confuse

Anyway time to install the manual cam chain adjuster. This is a bit tricky & i had to double checked it (ten times :). When you set the tension you screw it in finger tight & measure how much play is in the chain when pushed down. The play has to be roughly 2-5mm. Do not overtighten or wear & damage will be the result.

 

It says in the manual to now fit the head cover rip.gifno. Wonder how many of Mr Yamaha's engines went down the gurgler because they did'nt remember to tighten the Cam shaft sprocket to spec (an unknown spec). I used loctite on the cam sprocket bolts as i don't want them working their way loose.

You are suppose to do the oil filter in all of that but i can't yet as my cover is at the paint shop.

Edited: This was fitting the oil filter...


 

This was when i installed the K&N oil filter...

Quite easy just unbolt the three 5mm allen keys making sure the three o-rings don't get lost.

Take out the old filter & end rubbers. Install new filter (with the rubbers).

Then install the cover making sure the o-rings are installed properly.

 

 

Now i fitted the head cover & clutch cover .... I like to use a high temp silicone on the half moon shapes. (only the bottom surface of the gasket)

Job done. party.gif

...............

I have acquired just about everything now (see first post) Just waiting on the paint & have to take my swingarm & headlight shroud to the graphics place. N1. gaurd is still to arrive in the mail but i'm sure it won't be long. I am unwrapping all the parts for my engine as i write this so i will be uploading the engine top end rebuild soon. Stay tuned smile

..................

Jarrah.

.........................

A week or so later....

Okay... now that the boring stuff is over here is a pic of my engine caught sun baking in last light...

Can't wait until the paint cures bleh

.....................

Jarrah.

 



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Section 5: Converting an AU style headlight into a US style
 

Dispite my worry my FMF 4Q muffler has turned up with the GTYR Kickstarter kit. The only problem with the GTYR Kickstarter kit is that it is off a TTR230 & does not fit crycrycrycry

Back to the magic button i guess smile

I gave the motor a break for today (doing it tommorrow?). I have been working on the 1999 US OEM headlight that i have acquired.

I am very happy with the result as it a hell of a lot lighter at the front. I'm not sure what the 2000 models have for a headlight bracket but if it's anything like the 1994 one it aint going on my bike wink.

I had to improvise as i did not have the correct brackets & unsure if the US ones would fit as they don't seem to have a place for indicators at the front.

This is the 1999 US OEM headlight... (looks much better than the AU version in my opinion)

 

I had to put thick rubbers under the speedometer bracket (bolts onto tripple tree clamp) to lower the speedometer & under the speedo assembly (bolts speedo to bracket) to further lower it so the top of the gaurd protects it & looks right.

I also gave the speedo bracket a little bent up until it was to my likings....

For the top bracket i used the motor support bracket (it holds the brake line in place). This is what it looked like before i modified it...

Note: This is merely to show fitment & i have ordered new motor support brackets ect.for the job.

Now after improvisation...

 

When fitted to bike....

 

For the bottom bracket i had to bend an old stainless steel clamp into shape to fit the bottom mounting point...

Edited: I ended up buying the original OEM bracket but the below ''would'' have worked.

This is the back of it & all that is needed to assemble (below)..

Finished version...

 

So you can see how much difference it made i no longer need this...

The AU light is very heavy & weighs more than my whole assembly in just it's weight alone. These pics show the difference...

Note: Any speedo bracket from 1993-2012 should fit but i used a 1994 one as it was lighter. You can see this in the pic below...

I am most impressed as it is highly adjustable as you can see from the lower mounting spring in the pic above. Also very light,has the holes to fit blinkers,easy fitment & bulb replacement & looks great. (i think)

Well until tommorrow...Stay tuned smile

...............

Jarrah.

 


End of headlight section

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 



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To Brian

...................................................................................................................

Thanks for the feedback,great to see wink

It does seem to be a race to the end with Lin wink I'm afraid i cannot make my thread any quicker smile

The rings are just like any other rings. This should help.....

Edited: If you are only going 1mm oversize filing the ring gap should not be needed.

 

It is just the same as an OEM piston ''kit''.

 

Hope that helps?? Basically you just put them in a cross as pictured above.

The manual tensioner is an easy fitment but takes a bit of checking. It's not hard i just am a little concerned at getting it spot on. (plus i always double check my work. It's a habit :)

The pics from about half way down my thread are all taken from my Galaxy Ace phone & i'm impressed with the quality. 5 Mp apparently but seems better than 5.

Edited : I'm pretty sure you should be able to see in this thread where i changed from my laptop to my Galaxy Ace phone.

......................................................................................................................................................................................

To Steve,

              Glad to see my re-build thread is of some interest to people. It takes a lot of extra time to document it all but worth it in the end when you get feedback like this.

If you ever need a re-build i would be glad to help...aslong as your shouting the trip down & back lolz biggrin It may be cheaper to hire a local mechanic  $$$$ wink

.....................

Jarrah.

 



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YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



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RE: 1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Preview''
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Good progress Jarrah. I wonder who will get their engine in and running first - you or Lin wink

Just a question on the Wiseco piston, how did you position the ring gaps? I just opened a new box and there are no instructions in it confuse

Also, regarding the manual timing chain tensioner, if you struggled to get it right then I wonder if its suitable for the rest of us. Have you had problems with the standard tensioner? They are usually pretty robust and reliable.

The pics with your new camera are excellent! I bust my Fuji FinePix F40d whilst on our Spanish trail riding holiday and am looking for a replacement disbelief

Cheers

Brian



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Hey Barra, I've been watching your rebuild with interest, If I ever kill my engine you interested in A rebuild project  biggrin  biggrin  biggrin

I hope I never have to find out !

Cheers



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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Thought i would update a pic of my engine re-built still have to wait to get my oil filter cover back from the paint shop as i'm touching up the minor scratches...

............................

Jarrah.



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)

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