I went to start my bike the other day and it would not start. It wasn't sparking.....arghhhhhhh
So I'm not experienced with diagnosing electrics but I think I've followed all the testing in the TTR250L service manual, at least I have tried to.
So I have got to the stage where i'm looking at the CDI and the manual is telling me thats the thing to change...of course thats the worst possible outcome.... so I would like some advice.
At the CDI connection plug
- I can trace power to the CDI 12V (red/black)
- I have an AC voltage at the CDI across white/blue (W/L) and white/red (W/R) from the stator and also a resistance that looked within spec, 204 ohms if ive remember at the CDI connection plug
Q1 -> Is there any way to put the multimeter across some of the pins of the CDI to get any readings like say resistance across the pins. I have nothing but I haven't a clue if this is even a sensible thing to do?
Q2 -> Can you skim the list of things I have checked below just to see if Ive missed anything and maybe advice?
1-Battery (okay)
2- Fuse (okay)
3 Coil primary and secondary --> I bought a new plug boot as my orig has 9.55 Kohms of resistance but I now understand thats okay. The new plug boot didn't make a difference. primary and secondary where giving me all sorts of readings so after heavy cleaning of the laminated mountings and careful pressing of the multimeter pins I think my readings settled into primary 0.6 Ohms and secondar 6.7 Kohms (without plug boot) , plug book another 9.55 KOhms
4- Main switch , has continuity when I press the starter (okay)
5- engine cut off switch --I removed this and cleaned it as was getting OL-- and when set for engine to run it now gives continuity across the two red/black wires.
6- I couldnt get a resistance reading off the two pinned diode so I ordered a new one of these (not sure thats going to cause no spark) ...S3H-02 that one.
7 - Stator pickup seems okay, I disconnected the connector and I have blue and yellow wires that connect into the W/L W/R that i checked at the CDI connector. (Not W/L W/R as stated in the manual). Anyway the resistance across the Blue and Yellow was 250 Ohms. (a little high??). Also put the multimeter onto AC voltage and cranked the bike and got voltage across these two and I cranked. So I am assuming the pick up coil is working okay.
8- I cleaned the laminated core thingies that you bolt the coil onto the frame through. I put the W/L connector on the top mouting (I forgot where this went) but if it was put on the bottom mounting the bike wouldnt crank. So it does go on the top one doesnt it? just to check. I also bought a new multimeter because I was getting odd readings for the primary and secondary coils mentioned above, I suspected the meter had been dropped one to many times. I do get about 0.6 Ohm for the primary and 6.7 for the secondary without the boot on the new m-meter.
So thats were I am atm, hopefully someone can give me some pointers or tell me if I have FUBARED. Is anything a man can check on the CDI before spending hundreds. Also I have noticed some cheap new CDI's on the interwebs but I am thinking thats probably a bad idea and I should fork out for genuine. Its a lot of dough so i'd appreciate some opinions.
Clutch switch and sidestand switch are 2 more to look at before you go for the cdi.
If they have been removed/bypassed, check the bypass connections.
It would be unusual for the cdi to fail, but not unheard of. When did the bike last run?
Good luck!
with mine it was the ign pick up , it should read 4oo ohms across the leads, the plug is under the back of the tank next to the stator plug.
when mine failed there was no spark at all, to fix it i bought a pickup off ebay and fitted as per the post i put on here some where ( yamahs only sells it as part of the complete stator assembly if you can get one )
