I managed to pull the switch end of the clutch / ignition lockout switch out of the lever assembly. And it wont go back in. Nah, she's stuffed, mate.
Is there any method of disabling the clutch lockout?
Otherwise, I'll just try & wire in something to hold the pin inside the cable in. Meaning the micro switch at the other end will be open, or closed, permanently.
I suppose the cable goes into the ignition somewhere. But it's actuation is mechanical.
__________________
In the Riverina.
'73 RD250, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race eventually.
Just join the wires at the clutch perch end to bypass the clutch inhibitor part of the starter circuit. This comes with the same caveat as bypassing the sidestand switch of course - they're there to protect the numpties
Just join the wires at the clutch perch end to bypass the clutch inhibitor part of the starter circuit. This comes with the same caveat as bypassing the sidestand switch of course - they're there to protect the numpties
So there are two wires in the sheath. I didn't look very closely. I expect I could've felt two wires if I'd tried. I was thinking there may be one and it closed the circuit through the clutch lever. Then I figured that would be pretty unreliable because of poor contact at the clutch pivot. I've not gone back to it yet. Been having a crack at the RD.
Thanks.
Ever seen numbties on scooters? Or Harleys? Or in the backyard on trail bikes? Funny as sometimes. As long as it's not me, or mine, that they crash into.
Disengaging the clutch has now become so habitual that I do it even if I know it's in neutral.
It's like holding the front brake when starting a bike on rollers. I watched Troy Corser a few weeks back, starting the RC30 from his Australian superbike days. No drama. The owner of his YZF750 (maybe it was an FZR?) however, he started it without the front brake. Rear tyre snuck up on the front edge of the starter and he nearly lost control of it. Nicer bloke, just not Troy Corser. He is super quiet. Maybe he's over the fan type situation. Same questions, same answers. The sidecar people almost got him out on an F1 sidecar. Not quite. That would've been something to see.
Bugger, I can never remember how to rotate landscape photos.
'73 RD250, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race eventually.
Did it today. You are correct, Mossproof. Active and neutral wires together. It was clearly so, all I had to do was have a proper look.
I just cut the plug off, and joined the two wires with bullet connectors. I even fitted clear covers.
I resisted the muckanic in me to just twist them together and wrap in insulating tape. Some time in the future, some one may wish to re-connect it.
__________________
In the Riverina.
'73 RD250, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race eventually.
Cut the end off. There are two wires. Test reveals that the circuit needs to be closed to work.
Close the circuit. I did push it together properly.
You can buy a new switch & lead, including the two pin plug at the other end. Someone on facebook reckoned about $30. I don't know whether that was AU or EU or US or UK.
I wont be doing any unforseen wheelstands on the TTR. I'm at the injury point where I'm giving up any form of trail riding. Gravel roads etc on the sidecar, that has to be my limit.
'73 RD250, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race eventually.
