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Post Info TOPIC: My Raid 350 rebuild
Nev


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My Raid 350 rebuild
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Hello! I'm Nev and I'm a fairly recent convert to riding. I bought my TTR last year from Wales having only ever really ridden a classic C50 moped. Bought knowing not a lot about them, I've since come to love trail riding and have become very much attached to my little Raid!

CTPooEF.jpg

 

Me and a few mates are going trail riding over to the Isle of Man in a few weeks from now, which is my first big trip on the TTR. Now, it has always burnt a little bit of oil, and friends have told me "it f*cking stinks", however I thought I would just be able to ignore it until the end of this year. The bike, unfortunately had other plans, and had begun burning so much oil and losing so much compression I had to do something! 350 kit it is!

With only a month and a bit, and with lots of real life work trips away in the middle of it, I had to get cracking!

eWlTVT5.jpg

D6E9bc9.jpg

RabVxrE.jpg

Yup, it was definitely burning a bit!

 Rv0X02b.jpg

Everything nicely organised into ziplock bags and into relevant cardboard boxes depending on which part of the engine they live.

Stripdown took me Saturday and Sunday, then it was off to Oldham Engines for the casings to be machined and the head to be decoked & new valve stem seals fitted:

 Arg9H0a.jpeg?1

Rather incredibly, I got the casing and head back a week later, with all the work costing the STAGGERING SUM of FORTY QUID!! The quality of the work at Oldham Engines is always top class, proper old school engineering shop.

Anyway- with work and life out the way I began the rebuild in earnest this last Wednesday:

9gY9G0b.jpg

Q8tvdxB.jpg

Back in on Saturday lunch time, and by Saturday afternoon...

PjrnUOL.jpg

 

View first start video on imgur.com

IT'S ALIVE! Seems to tick over nicely, too.

A very very quick test ride revealed that A) its a LOT quicker than it was before (compression helps) and B) the swingarm or linkage has somehow seized up whilst being sat at full extension for a week. I can't really get my head round WHY it happened, but its given me the kick i needed to change all the bearings on the rear end and install the open-enduro swingarm I've had kicking around for months.

Unfortunately, real life gets in the way again this week and i'm away and unable to give it a proper ride for another couple of weeks, so until then, i'll just have to imagine how good it is.

Sorry for all the waffle. Will update when finally screwed back together!

 



-- Edited by Nev on Monday 10th of April 2023 10:31:54 PM

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Great work! Well done, and well done to Oldham Engines for speed and value.

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Blimey Nev

You don't hang around muchsmile

Let us know how you get on with jetting please. Always interested in that stuff.

 

 



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Nev


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Cheers Lads. I do not hang about no, I want to be out riding asap!

I'm tempted to weld a bung in the manifold so i can run an accurate wideband to set it up properly on the road, then just bung it up when not needed. Easy enough to do, and will be a better reading than the clip on the end of your can type.

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LONG OVERDUE UPDATE (And parts request )

After running it in for a few miles with the new piston and barrel, it seemed to be much more ticky than it was pre rebuild. Checked the valve clearances and they were out of spec, so new shims ordered, hoping that would solve the problem. As I took off the timing chain tensioner, it fell to pieces in my hand, which may go some way to explaining the ticking!

 bG5aC2e.jpg

After fitting a new manual adjustment tensioner and getting the valve clearances in spec, it purred like a kitten operating a sewing machine, very satisfying. Next job on the snag list was to plumb in a wideband lambda sensor, so I could have a go at accurately tuning the carb for the bigger piston. Bung welded in the exhaust and gauge cable tied to the dash, it proved a massive help in getting the idle mix in the range, and making sure it wasn't running dangerously lean at any point.

K6qHYHG.jpg

uqDl69x.jpg

As suggested earlier, i moved the needle clip one spot and this proved to be the best overall compromise. I haven't got it stoichiometric at WOT, but its pretty good everywhere else. Smaller main jet is probably in order, but it runs safe and pulls well with no flat spots- result. One issue I did create, though, was that at times the idle hangs high, as if the slide isn't closing properly. I took the carb apart several times and wasn't able to resolve it. Being only 3 days before departure for the trip and unlikely to be able to remedy anything if the carb rebuild didn't work, i opted to live with it for the time being. Annoying, but i could live with it.

Final job before the voyage to the Isle of Man was fitting the alloy swingarm and a shiny new Shock from Hagon suspension products as my old shock had mysteriously seized up on me. The new shock is awesome, so well worth the investment.

pCY8ZPL.jpg

All jobs completed and oil changed again, it was finally time to get on the road!

rUAP9KE.jpg

If you've never been to the IOM TT, you should go, but the Isle of Man is also home to some of the most incredible trail riding Ive ever seen- almost all the byways are open to bikes, and the locals are more than happy for you to use them as intended! Out of TT season, ferry tickets are reasonably cheap and the island is very quiet, so absolutely worth getting over there if you haven't done it.

skW4ljr.jpg

KRP1Lp4.jpg

I8HDtI9.jpg

For the next 4 days we rode over 250 miles of mostly off road trails, some of which was waaaay beyond what the little TTR was supposed to be doing, but it did everything the newer KTM Enduro bikes were doing and stood up to everything like a champ, including a 20mph spill on a rutted lane after losing my way in the dust from other bikes. Lesson learned there.

Day 5 rolled round and I noticed a small oil leak that looked to be coming from the cylinder base gasket. No bother, i'll sort it when i get home, doesn't look too bad. Plenty of spare oil in my bag, no problem. Later that day it was getting worse and worse, and becoming of more of a concern...

dgpogUL.jpg

I jumped on to ride back to camp to assess the issue further. Shortly after, as i restarted my bike after going through a gate, I heard a big crunch and noticed that the starter motor was lifting away from the engine, with quite a lot of the LHS case attached. Oh dear.

V5TvHZE.jpg

About 10 miles away from camp and with a decent amount of tools stored in the side pocket on the bike, I set about a roadside JB weld repair to get me back. I have to say, there are worse places to be broken down!

5i6QU46.jpg

Cover off, It was immediately obvious what the issue was.

bKZtYGP.jpg

I split it in two so i could get a decent smear of JB weld around it, enough to get it back in one piece and bolted to the bike. I also removed all the starter gubbins so I wouldn't accidentally split it again!

VrrOXze.jpg

4Vm0ycS.jpg

Bodged back together and bump start later, all seemed well apart from a tiny drip every 30/40 secs.

nQs1cdd.jpg

Having happened at the end of the final day of riding, all that was left to do was the 70 mile ride back from the ferry. After a couple of interesting bump starts and one precautionary oil top up, the TTR made it home mostly intact, which is more than can be said for a couple of the newer bikes I was riding with. no

aMolOhO.jpg

The post mortem hasn't begun yet, but i know for a fact i need:

  • Starter/new shaft
  • The small intermediate gear pictured above
  • POSSIBLY a sprag clutch, will check that when i take it apart
  • Gaskets
  • Replacement LHS Engine cover


Looks like new engine covers are possible to get from Japan, but if anyone has one in the UK, or even a full engine for spares, please let me know! Overall, very pleased with how it held up given all the battering it received. Apart from the starter issue, not even a sniff of another issue all week. The 350 pulls really strong from all revs, and I really learnt a lot. Sorry for the long post!



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The casing looks pretty far gone to be honest but have you thought about bolting the case back on and getting the casing tig welded in a few spots, taken off the a proper job done on it? Not sure if you have any mates handy with one, seems the cheapest solution and saves another casing?

I'm sure if that had broken in a lesser developed country they wouldn't think twice about repairing it, they'd probably be successful too 😅

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Nev


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dlee22 wrote:

The casing looks pretty far gone to be honest but have you thought about bolting the case back on and getting the casing tig welded in a few spots, taken off the a proper job done on it? Not sure if you have any mates handy with one, seems the cheapest solution and saves another casing?

I'm sure if that had broken in a lesser developed country they wouldn't think twice about repairing it, they'd probably be successful too 😅


 It's entirely possible to repair, no doubt, and definitely worth looking at. One of the friends I was with in IOM is handy with a TIG, but reckons its a magnesium alloy as a lot of them are. He tried welding a DRZ cover recently and it was just horrible. Is he wrong? Are they actually just regular cast ally? If so, i'd definitely consider having it welded up to save a casing and a bit of cash.



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yes its possible magnesium

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No harm in trying, I have a repaired casing in storage that look to have been welded. I purchased it cheaply on eBay as a spare but can't get to it for a year or so at a guess. Sorry I can't be any more help!

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IF you do need any parts from Japan, just let me know. I can find some and send them to you.

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Nev


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And we're back! Big thanks to everyone for help and parts. Picked up a full engine from Jamie_w which seems to be fully complete along with a load of other nice-to-have bits.

 rPiYZVH.jpg

New generator cover and starter fitted, even managed retrieve the errant tooth from the sump!

f0o6yCc.jpgpdi4907.jpg

Also fully rebuilt the carb for good measure to finally solve my idle hanging issues. Fired up first crack and now runs like an absolute dream- super quiet and more feels much tighter and responsive through the rev range.

QEJZPqb.jpg

I've also swapped the 13/52 combo for a 14/48. I felt the super short gearing was way overkill on the 350 and I was constantly reaching for the next gear. I think this works out about 13.5% difference in overall gearing, so hopefully it'll be a positive change overall. I'm sure i'll find out when it stops absolutely bucketing down! Overall, really really pleased and can't wait to get back out on it! biggrin



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Nev


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Also in relation to carb jetting- i'm still running rich at about 12.5 at WOT, so could absolutely stand to go for a smaller jet than the 137 i'm currently running, but its absolutely fine throughout most of the range. Needle clip is one spot up from OE.

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I think 12.5 at WOT is perfect. Check the chart in this link:

www.safrtool.com/SAFR-AFR-values.asp

Although stoich is the ideal, in real life you need to be richer in all conditions to avoid lean burn in transitions, and over heating at WOT (for eg thrashing through sand)

14/48 is a good choice I think, and your swing arm chain slider will thank you I use 14/47, mainly 'cause I'm superstitious of the even numbers combo, but for an upcoming Portugal TET I'm even considering going back to stock 14/44 because of the roadwork. She pulls it fine, will just be a bit of clutch work if the going gets technical.

Nice view from your workshop btw!

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I was going to say the same thing, about the workshop view smile

Good report as well biggrin



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Nev


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That's perfect then! Cheers for the wise words - I'm far from a carb whisperer, so I'm feeling my way round it. Certainly easy to feel when it's right and when it's not, it's nice up have that backed up by the gauge.

Went out on a few tame lanes on Sunday with a fair bit of road, the gearing is a much better compromise, especially with the extra oomph on the 350. Can comfortably do 50 now on big roads without absolutely screaming it's nuts off, and still perfectly acceptable on the technical stuff. Have to be a little more careful on great selection on the slow trails, but overall a good move I feel. I'd be more than happy doing a decent length trip like this.

I think I had a GPS confirmed 75 before it was starting to rev hard, could probably do 80 if you were less sympathetic!

And yeah, the view could definitely be worse. I'm sure all the walkers that say hello to me in the workshop must think I never ride it 😅

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Nev


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Oh, and also to note that I tipped over 500 miles on the 350 swap this weekend, seems to be happy as can be. Really really happy with it!

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Good to hear that Nev! Shame Yamaha never made a TTR350 eh?

Brian



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Nice work Nev, that gearing works well!

I bet it won't take long for you to double the miles :)

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Nev


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TTRfan wrote:

Good to hear that Nev! Shame Yamaha never made a TTR350 eh?

Brian


 Ah but if they did, would we be building TTR450s? Probably! 😂



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Nev


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dlee22 wrote:

Nice work Nev, that gearing works well!

I bet it won't take long for you to double the miles :)


 No, looking forward to getting out on it! Fresh ticket today for another 12 months of legality too! Just need a new rear tyre now...



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Nev


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Small update: went out at the weekend to get the last out of my current tyres before changing and the front end felt awful over the rough stuff, no compliance, almost felt like I had a flat tyre. After checking tyre pressures were okay, I figured it may be down to the forks, so when I got back I thought I'd have a look at the stanchions to see how they looked under the boots.

 

Unclipped the RHS boot and...

wzSq41X.jpg

sStEGLq.jpg 

All over the front brake too! Well, at least that points a fairly obvious finger to what the problem is! I actually have a set of spare OE fork legs, so I'll rebuild those and swap them on, whilst doing steering bearings too.

Before sorting the steering bearings and forks, in the last year I have;

  • Front and rear wheel bearings
  • New rear shock
  • OE Swingarm
  • Swingarm bearings
  • Linkage bearings
  • New chain and sprocket
  • New bars & grips
  • Rebuilt front and rear callipers
  • Brake pads
  • Rebuilt front brake master cyl
  • Rebuilt carb
  • 350 rebuild
  • New starter
  • New engine cover
  • New clutch plates

At least I know it'll be sorted soon! confuse

Oh, and I went Pirelli MT43 rear and Michelin Tracker front, so will see how it goes!

HdAKTvi.jpg



-- Edited by Nev on Tuesday 1st of August 2023 04:00:50 PM



-- Edited by Nev on Tuesday 1st of August 2023 04:01:55 PM

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Great build, looks mega, you mention a hagon shock, do you have a part number for that?

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Nev


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Hey Tim. No part number on that- I just called up and explained what I needed and the man from Del Monte said yes. They set it up to my weight (no pies allowed) and riding style- it seems like a great thing. It's had nearly a full year of hard riding and I've had no problems at all.

 

One advantage to the hagon shock is that it leaves a nice little gap behind the head for some kind of storage solution:

7hwoN3H.jpg

 

x1 Ali Express finest insulated flasks and one hose clamp, complete with the knob off an old pot and voila- one tool storage receptacle. The only modification required was a little retaining slot at the bottom for the standard bracket to slot into and it works a treat! Plenty room for a 1/4 socket set, a few cable ties and a small multi tool.

fGC7p7G.jpg

 Kk2UtFG.jpg 

Oh, and an appropriate sticker because i'd painted it yellow and it should be a shock chamber...

5e0sk56.jpg



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Nev


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Another week, another weekend of maintenance! This time it was finally replacing the unknown sprag clutch and gear before it smashed the engine cover to bits again, along with some uprated clutch springs. Ever since I did the 350 upgrade i've sometimes been able to slip the clutch at full beans. Its got the early 6-plate clutch (and new plates) but still slipped.

xO7XkDD.jpg

Uprated springs are clearly heavier duty, and felt as such when reassembled. Also managed to pull out a thread on the RHS casing, so a very very carefully fitted M6 helicoil to the rescue! (And don't worry- I did have everything covered up for drilling and tapping!)

SAVWS19.jpg

Fresh oil and cleaned filters, quick blast on the road reveals the clutch is now sharp as anything and not a hint of slippage. Sprag seems nice and quiet too at switch on/off. Even went out for a 150 mile jaunt on the TET towards the peak district to celebrate.

mrGJPis.jpg
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The only casualty from the day was my adhesive mount on the back of my spare phone that I use for maps!

Next item on the agenda before summer is fork rebuild and steerer bearings. I did swap on a spare set of fork legs after my raid ones jettisoned all their oil, but these OE ones are still an unknown quantity. Oh, and the little rubber boots on both callipers have disintegrated too, so i'll need to find them!



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Nice to see a bike with some attention lavished on it. I like your thinking with the storage solutions too!
How is the trials pattern rear tyre coping?

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Nev


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mossproof wrote:

Nice to see a bike with some attention lavished on it. I like your thinking with the storage solutions too!
How is the trials pattern rear tyre coping?


Well it definitely gets used and abused as intended, but I'm enjoying keeping it in good nick and making it even better as time goes on- It's quite a rewarding project.

As for the MT43 tyre, i got absolutely ribbed by my KTM450 owning friend who said it would be absolutely crap, but it's been pretty great. I wanted something a little less aggressive for the road that could take a few miles, but also handle the off road stuff. In deep mud and mushy grass its pretty awful, but on anything else it's felt good. That video linked above was much steeper more rutted than it looks and it gripped up fine. I'd also say that it feels much more progressive on the rear end now, you can feel slides as they happen where as the big enduro/mx tyres have grip for days then all of a sudden nothing. It indeed also feels much nicer on the roads as you'd expect. I'm only running 10psi in it, and it'll do all day at 50/60mph, i've also never managed to get close to feeling like i'll get a pinch puncture.

Overall, i'd say it would be better suited to summer riding where there's less sloppy mud, but I'm yet to be limited by rear grip at any point.



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MT43 rear and a knobbly on the front is definitely the way to go if you are doing a reasonable amount of road work between lanes.

It's amazing how far over you can lean the TTR with that combination biggrin

Brian



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Great pics Nev, Ive just watched the video, and that's Cheesgate Nab near Holmfirth if I'm not mistaken? Rode that many times, and even on my old Raid...in fact I have a nice loop/route that starts not far from there.

J.

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Nev


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Yes Brian, I've enjoyed the combination. It's reasonably confidence inspiring. Except in this snow we've got at the moment!

Good spot on the lane Jase- it is indeed. Great little lane, we happened upon it as it's part of the TET, but we also frequented a few more lanes round Holmfirth on the return trip that were great. I'm just over the border in Lancashire these days, but I'm from Huddersfield way so do pop round there. Any decent routes or tips appreciated!

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Ever since I got the TTR it's had a switch glued to the side of the clocks to override the headlight, so i thought i'd come up with a solution to make it a bit better, and house a couple of switches, along with a USB port for charging and a volt meter for... volts i suppose?

Before:
aRO6jGW.jpeg

As if I needed a reason to get a new 3d printer, this was the perfect use for it!
k7JQMq4.jpeg

Bit of modelling:
lx48lCi.jpeg 
8Gtoppc.jpeg

Ta da:
InwiGVT.jpeg
XES9Xie.jpeg

Fits quite nicely on the back of the clocks:
J5LA5Sz.jpeg
XwxezFj.jpeg

Few tweaks left to do on it, but it looks pretty good I think, and quite in keeping with the clocks. It did require a bit of trimming of the headlight cowl, but only a tad. 



-- Edited by Nev on Tuesday 30th of January 2024 09:07:39 PM

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More maintenance; this time it's the steering head bearings and fork seals!

nVdtzJ4.jpeg
jefKOCf.jpeg

Out with the nasty 30 year old oil of unknown volume, in with fresh 5w fork oil, new seals and bushings. Had them about a year and never got round to doing em. Thankfully i'd read somewhere on here about using a bit of PVC pipe to hold the inner of the damper in place to remove the nut on the bottom, i'd have been screwed (or not unscrewed) if I hadn't had that trick!

New steerer bearings and new fork seals... wow, what a difference! It feels incredibly plush now, and makes me realise quite how warn out the front end was!

I also removed my long broken steering lock barrel while it was all apart and replaced it with something a little more useful;
k1cXFOD.jpeg
yvKXxMe.jpeg

A grease nipple port to allow me to grease the headset bearings without needing to dismantle the whole thing. Hopefully it works.



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