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Post Info TOPIC: brake and clutch levers


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brake and clutch levers
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Hi everyone. Was out off-roading today and of course broke another brake lever - not a problem as I have some spares. BUT, a mate of mine has these fancy levers for clutch and brake that sort of flex so they don;t break off so easily. Does anyone now of how to get hold of these for a 2005 TTR250 ? I have had a look on here and also on the web - are these what are now as pivot levers ? Sorry for ignorance on this one.



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Not tried any sort of flexi lever but, for trail riding, I use handguards and a tip from an old enduro rider which is to never fully tighten the clutch and brake perches. Leave them so that a fall would turn them rather than brake a lever.



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pug


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With you on that Brian very old wise tip never fully tighten the clutch and brake perches it can save you a leaver but hand guards as well belt and bracers chaps


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I have used flex levers years ago, also used to leave the lever perch loose & used to carry spare levers, but for the last 15yrs I have used Barkbuster handguards & have not broken a single lever & even when I dropped the bike in rocks twice during our trip to the Flinders.

I use short adjustable levers as they work better with the Barkbusters, also gives extra protection for your fingers from rocks or trees.

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The handguards with an aluminium frame are stronger but I have had issues in the past where a heavy drop (or three if in Wales!) can result in them bending in far enought to catch the lever and they are impossible to straighten out on the trail.

So I prefer to use the all plastic ones that Steve sells here. They take the knocks but are flexible enough to allow you to keep riding.

You are right that the OEM levers are quite long and vulnerable. Again, I use the ones that Steve sells as they are shorter and cheap enough to replace if they ever do get broken wink

Brian



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TTRfan wrote:

The handguards with an aluminium frame are stronger but I have had issues in the past where a heavy drop (or three if in Wales!) can result in them bending in far enought to catch the lever and they are impossible to straighten out on the trail.

So I prefer to use the all plastic ones that Steve sells here. They take the knocks but are flexible enough to allow you to keep riding.

You are right that the OEM levers are quite long and vulnerable. Again, I use the ones that Steve sells as they are shorter and cheap enough to replace if they ever do get broken wink

Brian


 I used to have a set of plastic ones which worked with standard levers ok, the Barkbusters are a little tighter so I use the shorter levers, I have seen the handguard move on the bars if not tight enough. I also use alloy handlebars that have a thicker wall, when the barkbusters are tightened up they don't move & the frame is thick enough I can't see it bending.

Either plastic or alloy frame handguards will protect the levers & save your fingers from damage.

Terry



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I've always just cut the stock levers down to 2 finger length and filed the ends. And barkbusters of course. I like the look of Terry's.

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PlumasDude wrote:

I've always just cut the stock levers down to 2 finger length and filed the ends. And barkbusters of course. I like the look of Terry's.


 They are adjustable for reach & only cheap on ebay, $25-29 au delivered

Terry



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