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Post Info TOPIC: No start on the button.


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No start on the button.
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The alarm on my TTR drains the battery so I wired in a permanent plug to connect a Ni-Cad jump starter.  It never fails to boost the battery enough to get it started even when the battery is below 12v.

This morning when I tried to start, the starter button didn't make a sound, no click, nothing. The lights were bright so I bump started the bike down a hill and carried on to work.

This evening exactly the same thing. It was like pressing the starter with the bike in gear. As there were no handy hills to roll down I put the bike in first gear, pushed it back and forwards a few inches, and tried the starter again. Brrrum, brrum, and she starts?

Is this a known fault? Starter brushes? Sticky solenoid? Or something more expensive?

 



-- Edited by Dan-in-a-Van on Wednesday 11th of December 2019 07:05:44 PM

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Before I read all your post it sounded like the starter inhibitor circuit to me: Clutch switch, sidestand switch, neutral switch, or have you bought an old Husky or Guzzi recently and the cut out switch operates back to front

But shocking the starter by rocking backwards in gear suggests a sticky starter motor, except you would still hear the solenoid click. No click = no solenoid activating.

Puzzling. I wonder if it's an intermittent neutral switch issue that knocking into gear sorted? When you did the "in gear rocking" thing, did you then press the starter while still in gear with the clutch in?

The clunks and bangs from the insides related to the starter sprag clutch are the expensive ones! Your issue sounds more emotionally costly as you work through all the possibilities and your findings seem contradictory!

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Aren't TTR's intriguing? Out of the garage this morning. Battery only showing 12.2v she starts on the button without the jumper pack plugged in. Two miles later at the petrol station, she starts again first time on the button.

Roll on to 4 o'clock after being parked in the cold and rain all day. No start, but a click from the solenoid this time. I plugged in the never fail jumper pack and still only a click. A quick roll back and forth in gear and she starts on the button. Three miles later and short stop on the way home, she starts on the button again.

So, is it time to strip and clean the solenoid and starter?


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If you have a test light when it fails if there is power at the starter terminal .its likely to be brushes if no power the solenoid contacts 



-- Edited by ttboof on Friday 13th of December 2019 07:09:08 AM

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Yup. I have the same problem. Just started this week. Intermittent clicks on start up. Figured something was starting to go. Sigh. More work todo... My indicator relay is on the fritz too! However, at 25 years old she is holding together pretty well.

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Plenty of indicator relays scalable cheap fix 

The good part is if it clicks and doesn't completely dim the lights the wiring is probably OK 

Then it's just the solenoid and starter to check 



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Well today both starts had to be bump starts down a hill. The solenoid has just been clicking or nothing at all.

 

When I got home I did some quick checks. The battery was showing 12.6v after the run home, but dropped to 12.0v when the starter button was pressed and only clicked the solenoid. I unscrewed the starter idler cover and took out the gear. Pressing the starter button even with no drive cog in place still didn't spin the starter. So tomorrow's job will be to strip and clean the  solenoid first to see if I can get it going until I can source some spares.

 

Taking off the idler gear cover did give me a few other little jobs to do tomorrow. Now before you judge me after seeing the photos I like to say that most of my bikes have been two strokes. When I got the TTR it was already smoking on start up and burning oil in two stroke volumes.  My two-stroke mentality meant I was happy to live with this and topping up the oil every week just meant I didn't need to worry about regular oil changes. Yes I know. I'm a bad person. I still think mileage-wise I'm well under the distance for an oil and filter change, but I didn't take into account the previous owner's lack of servicing.

Sorry engine. :(

IMG_20191213_141637.jpg

IMG_20191213_134530.jpg

IMG_20191213_134348.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 



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Yep - I reckon an oil and filter change is probably due wink

Check that you have drained the emulsifier (the tube at the bottom of the black plastic cone-shaped device just in front of the airbox that takes the engine breather pipe) as it is probably full with the amount of water that seems to have mixed with your oil cry

The solenoid isn't really built to be serviced (see here ) or repaired. The easiest way to check it is to short out the terminals to bypass it. If the starter doesn't engage then your problem is almost certainly starter brushes.  If the starter can be operated repeatedly then your solenoid is likely top be faulty but check all the connectors before engaging your wallet wink

Brian



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That seems like a lot of water has mixed with your oilcry



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Good call on the emulsifier Brian. It was full of oily water. The oil I drained out of the sump look as black as normal so I guess the water is getting in from the top somewhere. I think hylomar is going to be used everywhere on the rebuild.

I found the cause of the non-start. :)

IMG_20191214_104224.jpg

 



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It lives!

The bike is back together. Starting first time, every time. I did find a crack in the casing along one of the timing cover bolt holes though :( How long do you think the Araldite will stay put?

 



-- Edited by Dan-in-a-Van on Sunday 22nd of December 2019 06:38:48 PM

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Araldite can last for ever or can come away sometimes.  it's good stuff.   Just keep an eye on it 

 



-- Edited by ttboof on Monday 23rd of December 2019 11:56:11 AM

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