Anyone know how to disconnect the front brake light connector from the master cylinder mount? I've pulled back the rubber to reveal some kind of plastic that looks like it encapsulates the spade connectors.. was getting dark so didn't get a chance to faff about trying to get it off but there didn't look like an obvious way to disconnect it.
under the lever housing you will have a hole push a screwdriver or something in the hole and it will push back a tang and the switch will pull out..
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Is it possible to buy a socket of the same type as the front brake so I can create a tail for my other brake lever? I'm not sure what the connection type is called so not having much luck searching..
-- Edited by robs on Wednesday 10th of October 2018 10:11:52 AM
I have two brake-lever - brake line - front caliper sets, one for the supermoto wheels and one for dirt. This saves having to replace washers and do bleeds etc when switching wheels.
The one of the master cylinder front brake lever unit I have is the original TTR one that has the plug/socket style connection to the rear brake light. The other is generic one which just has standard spade connectors. I wanted to get a socket that I can plug the brake circuit into to adapt it to spade connectors so it'll fit on my generic brake lever housing.
OK - now I understand. When you swap wheels you also swap master cylinders, levers, lines and calipers as a whole.
Rather than trying to find an adapter (which I am pretty sure doesn't exist) why not take a simpler route?
Cut the brake switch lead close to the master cylinder end and fit a simple double female connector. Then fit a male connector to the cut end for use with the TTR master cylinder and do the same for the other maser cylinder but with spade terminals.
Thank you for the detailed reply, that is exactly what I was thinking of doing as a plan B! Fortunately I already have a load of automotive connectors so what you've described is what I'll do.
After riding about a bit I was wondering why the front brake felt "wooden" and apparently this can be caused by the incorrect bore on the master cylinder.
There doesn't appear to be any in the shop, anyone know what bore the TTR requires and/or any after market ones which will work?