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Resurrection of a scrapheap '02 TTR
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If I didn't take it, it was off to the tip.

Far too good to just throw it away, so I took it and got it out of the weather.

IMGA0261.JPG

 

Wasps had taken over as the top of this insect motel's food chain.

IMGA0272.JPG

 

I removed all of the plastics, what remained of the seat (I think it may have been sheep food), and the engine came out.  Those bits all went under the verandah or in the garage.  The rolling chassis sat outside my living room, under cover.

Maybe two years passed, while I was working on / repairing a couple of my other bikes.

Start of this year, I found I had a few dollars free, so the engine went down to a mechanic.  Phil had told me the bike just stopped.  No further info, other than to say he just left it in a paddock.  I then went overseas for a few months.

Been home a week now, I've spoken with the mechanic who reckons the most likely reason it wouldn't run was because the valves were carboned up and there was no compression.  He's given it a thorough inspection/measure, new oem size piston and rings, cleaned up the head, done the valves, guides and seals.

He's only waiting for an O ring to arrive so it can go back toghether.

That was sufficient reason to have a go at stripping the rolling chassis.  Took me a couple of hours yestarday arvo. IMGA0311.JPG

 

I ended up with a pile of bits, all needing a thorough clean.

All I intend to do is replacement of bearings, seals and fluids and other consumables to get it running.

It's too far gone in the plastics to be really worried about that.  Maybe an Acerbis, IMS or Safari tank will come up.

I picked up a seat from a mate who was wrecking one.

I don't have a problem with removing a replacing bearings and seals.  If I did, I couldn't afford to have so many bikes, let alone old bikes.  Can't imagine how much a shop would charge to replace some bearings, the parts are expensive enough as they are.

Do you reckon I could stick these back in???confuse

IMGA0319.JPG

 

No, you don't need to tell me, with alarm, that the are past their use by date.

 

So, I've had one bit of success from this forum.  There was a post about colour matching the frame - Color Rite (colorrite.com) - Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C SKU # 5815.

I'll slip down to the auto paint shop and see if they can mix a can or two.  Fingers crossed.

 

Good thing is that, apart from wherethe paint is removed and there is surface rust, everything looks like it's probably never been apart.  Typical farm bike.  Ride it around - if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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it will come up great.... 

bearing are cheap if you don't go to a motorbike shop for them...

I find it hard to turn down a free motorbike aswell...

I was given a 80 Kawasaki KL250 a few weeks ago
like yours it is now in bits...



..



-- Edited by petenz on Monday 17th of September 2018 07:10:36 AM



-- Edited by petenz on Monday 17th of September 2018 07:12:55 AM

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Looks like it will come up pretty well seeing how far you have gone with yours doing the motor in mine isn't a big job biggrin



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I started to have a go at the wheels. Managed to get the front tyre off, as normal but - I reckon my technique with the rear, fitted with a rim lock, must be wrong. I've thought about it and reckon that starting with the levers at the rim lock, so that the bead comes away, may produce a better result. As it is, the tyre is stuck to the rim lock, so it wont fall into the rim valley and, following on from that, I can't stretch the opposite side over the rim. Not feeling terribly well, so I didn't persist with it. Have another go at it 'ron.

I also have had trouble getting a drift onto the inner wheel bearing race, as the bearing spacer doesn't want to move far enough out of the way. Things that make you go hmmmm.
May force me to buy a proper bearing removal tool, which I could justify having, I suppose.

The front seals were chocka block full of nice clean grease and they turn very smoothly. Reckon I may just leave the bearings undisturbed.


I succeeded down at the local auto paint supplier in getting a couple of aerosol cans of deep purplish blue metallic. I hope the match is okay, as I've done a bit more frame cleaning and there is quite a lot of paint off at lots of parts of the frame.

Heading off soon to see if the engine is finished. Les hasn't rung and he wasn't at our Classic Club meeting on Monday.

Now I'm wondering if I can enlist my younger son to get interested in this resurrection. He said he want's his rider licence but, yet to see him bother doing anything about it. Maybe I can get him to pay for the parts.


Slowly slowly, catch-ee monkey.


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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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Sorry to hear of the problems Ray.

I haven't come across the rim lock sticking to the tyre before. Is it free from the rim itself and moving with the tyre?

Whether it's stuck in the rim and/or the tyre, put the nut back on, stand the wheel upright with the rim lock section on the ground and give it a few whacks to free it up. An ordinary hammer may not fit between the spokes but a weighty tyre lever would do it - just make sure you don't miss the nut and damage the rim - maybe pack some rag around the stem of the rim lock before attacking it.

Otherwise can you get the tyre in the vice and squeeze it up to see if that separates the rim lock?

If you aren't going to re-use the tyre then you can get creative with a hacksawwink

Regarding removing the wheel bearing, do you have a MIG or arc welder? If so, maybe can you blob some weld on the inside bearing race to give you something to hammer against.

If the spacer is that tight up against the inner races then it suggests that there is very little play in them in which case maybe just re-grease and leave alone biggrin

I think I was lucky with my lads. The eldest, Matt, in particular was so keen to ride that he started to do his own dirt bike repairs and maintenance as he wasn't always top of my priority list with so many other things to do. He is in his 30s now with a young family but still has a trail bike which he gets out on occasionally - family pressures permitting. His teenage son is not the least bit interested in oily things though no An old picture of my lads below, Tom on the left and Matt on the right. CRF90 and KX100 - I think.... Plus one of Matt getting some air at the old Patchquick MX track.

Brian

PS I hope you feel better soon!

Patchquick fun (2).JPG

Matt on KX100 at Patchquick.JPG



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Feeling a bit over the cold now so,   out to the garage!

First job was to fit new tyres to the RD.  I had stainless spokes fitted while I was away, I also cleaned up the rusty bits, treated them with a bit of rust converter (Hammerite Kurust) and then some cold gal paint over the lot. Dunlop TT100 GP for the little old girl.  They look period correct and stick well.  Only problem, the normal 90/90 front is now, for unknown reasons, a 3.00   - by my reckoning that makes is a 75/90.  It is narrower but, given the use that bike gets, not a drama.

 

Then I turned attention to the TTR frame, swinging arm and later, the tank.

I was over playing with tyre levers.  The rear tyre isn't going anywhere.

I pulled the swinging arm links off without noting which way it went (hope I've got some photos of it elsewhere...) and gave it a bit of a wash with detergent.  I noted that there are some needle rollers in there.  To be replaced.  I didn't notice any grease nipples.  Am I blind?

Same with the frame.  Removed the only broken stud at the rear and cleared a lot of the remaining dirt and oil and grease that remains.

I'll re-do it all with some degreaser and then pressure wash it before I progress to prepping for some paint.

Then I had a go at the tank.

 

IMGA0330.JPG

 

I put some heat onto the less sun affected left side, for a few minutes.  Got a bit bored so I changed to wet & dry.

Wet sanding took the majority of the white discolouration off.

Then I had another go with some more heat.  As I was going I could see the colour of the surface change as it got hot, moving the heat gun according to what I was seeing.

 

IMGA0336.JPG

 

It took about an hour or so to get it to this point.  It's never going to be attractive, is it.  Unfortunately, I did get a little carried away on the concave section and burnt the plastic.  Looks like I may have to burn the corresponding portion of the other side.

 

Lastly, I did what I've done with the filler neck of the tank on my 900 Tiger.  Hot metal rod through the plastic to let it breathe whilst filling, and to fill it with the last 1/2 litre.

IMGA0338.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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Wheel bearings used to be a bugger until I went to 

Putting a Dyna bolt (concrete anchor bolt )into the bearing tightening it up then a bit of heat on the the hub then punch it out from the other side as the Dyna bolt gives something to hit. 9 times out if ten an easy fix 



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Might do the hot rod MOD on my tank it's always annoying getting that last bit of fuel in 



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ttboof wrote:

Wheel bearings used to be a bugger until I went to 

Putting a Dyna bolt (concrete anchor bolt )into the bearing tightening it up then a bit of heat on the the hub then punch it out from the other side as the Dyna bolt gives something to hit. 9 times out if ten an easy fix 


 dyna bolt..... why didn't i think of that....

i used a exspanding mandle for holding stuff in a lathe...

my set now has one that don't work anymore..

did get the bearing out though...

 

 

..



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Tripod - have you thought about possibly dying your tank? Instructions here - www.youtube.com/watch

I've got the stuff to do this (ordered dye from america, a spare tank, and a tea urn) but am yet to find the time to do it..

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Geez dyna bolt!  - I forgot about that!  Heat it, freeze & release then hitting it with a drift is usually effective.  Dyna bolt has only worked for me once before, but it did work..

thanks.

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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I'm progressing.  I managed to get a first etch prime on the frame before it started to rain last night (rain? rain? geez, what's that?).  Nice and clear this morning, so back out to the clothes line, another coat of primer, a couple of coats of base colour and clear over the top.

 

IMGA0387.JPG

 

It's cheap and nasty result, because I didn't spend the money on blasting the frame.  Point is, it's a trail bike.  I'm going to fall off, ride it in sand,mud and rocks.  It ain't that important.

Thanks for the video link, Robs.  Not within the parameters of this particular project.  If it was an IT 250 or something of greater historic value, certainly.  Let's see what happens if I still have it in 15 years time.  Just goes to prove, if you can think of something, someone has probably already done it.  If they haven't, best pull your finger out and get in quick.

 

I did manage to get the rear tyre off.  Is it normal for the rim tape to go over the rim lock?  It turned out that the tube was stuck to the tyre too.  I couldn't get a lever in at the rim lock, so I went 1/4 way around (90 deg) to start.  That was easy.

Got a classic bike rally this weekend, so I will resume next week.  Maybe I may have an engine by then but, doesn't matter as I reckon I'd be best served installing that after it's back on it's wheels.

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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Good to get the update and see progress is being made!

I always put the rim tape over the rim lock as it helps manoeuvre it when putting on the tyre. Steve stocks some handy rim lock washer/bolt sets that help the nut seat properly and help keep water out of the insides - see here

Its a lot easier to put the engine back in when the TTR is back on its wheels. You maybe will want to put some tape over the frame to stop scratching up your new paint wink

Brian 



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Neither my 950 nor 690 had rim locks. In contrast, my '80 XS11 has them for the rear - I've not used them since the first tyre change after I bought that bike nearly 30 years ago.
Maybe I'm just a woose with a limp right wrist?

In any event, I wasn't going to bother, as the rear will basically stay above 19 psi.

I have to make some sort of start on my parts list, beyond just some idea of what I need. First will be steering head bearings. Finges crossed I can save the lower bearing seal and get replacements from the local bearing shop. Save some dollars when possible.



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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The frame is painted.  It's presentable.

What would by Irish mate call it?  'Bodgit & Scarper' on the job.  My wife and I have only been back from Europe for a month, spent the last 5 weeks of 3 month trip, in Ireland.  Based at McGoo's home in Killinchy, visited the north & north west coast, and then down south to Cork and Ring of Kerry area.  Also went to the Ulster GP, Classic TT & Manx GP and our last day was at the road racing in Killilane, near Dublin.  What a fabulous place, with fabulous people.  Sorry, off track for a moment.

IMGA0392.JPG

 

And the steering head bearing came off the lower stem, with some 'dremel & impact' encouragement.  I've got myself the install drifts now & I can visit the local bearing shop to see if they are available.  The seals are integral with the bearing, so no saving them.

 

IMGA0397.JPG

 

A bit of work on the swinging arm. The only thing I need to replace will be the oil seals for the end caps.  When I pulled it apart, there was plenty of grease in there and the bearings are really smooth to roll.  All good, eh!

 

IMGA0398.JPG

Yet to decide whether to give the swing arm a quick coat of aluminium paint or just leave it.  Probably the latter.

IMGA0399.JPG

 

And I've started my parts list, it's quite long with many relatively small consumable parts that all need replacing.  Buy locally at twice the price?  Send a big order to the boss on here or pick from a hundred different suppliers on ebay?  Ebay is always a risk, IMHO.  Only advantage is that I could spread the purchases out over a period of time, but pay lots in freight.  And I like my local Yamaha dealer (only 140km away).

I've also been doing a bit on my 350LC race bike, just breaking things as I check them - just normal stuff.  Still waiting on info whether I can swap a TZ750A barrel set (2 cylinders, 347cc) for a later set (373cc) for my other LC race bike.  And waiting on conrods & pistons from Fondseca for the hybrid TZ/LC too - at least that's already paid.

It's all happening!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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And I got this, yesterday.

 

 

 

IMGA0406.JPG

 

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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Ready to rock'n roll!

Spray the swing arm - only take a short time. You will regret it if you don't wink

Should have said earlier but to resurrect a tank (or any panels) with that much dead plastic, I have found the only real answer is to scrape ti off with a sharp Stanley (or craft) blade. Then use wet & dry paper and then make it shiny with a heat gun.

It looks like one of your swing arm bearing covers has been attacked by the chain so make sure that your chain slider is in good order. I tend to run a slightly bigger front sprocket these days to help keep the chain from biting the swingarm.

Good luck with your final efforts - you are so nearly there biggrinbiggrin

Brian

 

 



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If it wasn't for eBay my gearbox rebuild wouldn't have been worth doing 

I got the complete gearbox internals on eBay and bits and pieces from a couple of Yamaha dealers I pass driving for work 

Full top to bottom  rebuild with new piston ect just a little over $500 we are lucky in Australia  parts are avalable and a good price 

 

 



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Actually, not that close.  My list is quite long.  Chain slider was one of the first parts on the list.  So you reckon a 15T countershaft is the g.o.?   Just did that arithmatic.  Phil's farm gearing was 14:48.  Need to go 15:51 to get it similar.  May go 15:50 to start with, just slightly taller.  I've seen there is a gearing sticky to tell me the number of links I will need.  Cool, someone's done the work!

 

And I got my TZ bits this morning, from Fondseca. Woo Hoo!  That means a trip to Wodonga today, and the Yamaha dealer is in the adjacent town, enroute!  Egg sell ant!

 

Slowly slowly, otherwise I may just break the bank.

 

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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tripodtiger wrote:

 

 

And I got my TZ bits this morning, 

 

 


 A real TZ ?.... what year....

I raced a 77 TZ350D for a couple seasons...

but went back to the 410cc production class on a 80 RD400G "last of the air cooled 400"

 

 

.

 



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See the 'RD373LC' mentioned in the bottom line?

A couple of years ago I wanted a second bike to go with the 350LC.  I'd been watching this fellow riding an LC with TZ750 top end, TZ wire wheels, FZR forks, 34mm carbs ride around.  He was keeping up with the mega dollar Ducati 500 Pantahs that win the major events.  Anyway, the bike became available and, when the price dropped down to where I could afford it, I bought it.

Unfortunately, the first thing to go was the water -  the remodelling of the inlet tracks left the metal so thin that it perforated and pump the water through the cylinder.

When I pulled it down, I discovered the left hand crank was separating.  That ended up costing me a new crank etc.

Last thing, 18 months ago, at Phillip Island, I broke both engines, big time.  Suffice to say we have no real reason but speculate that, for various reasons, both became hydra-locked whilst trying to get each of them running.

It's been a case of juggling the interests.  I did the 350 first and the 373 has sat and waited.

So, my TZ bits are a pair of rod kits and piston kits.  The bottom end can go back together via my mechanic.  I haven't had the cylinders repaired - can send them to New Zealand for that.  I know a bloke who's a bit well known regarding Yamahas and, I may be a set of barrels through him.  Waiting to hear back from him.

 

So, that's my TZ bits.  That bike was on the back burner until the parts arrived.



-- Edited by tripodtiger on Thursday 11th of October 2018 09:14:28 AM

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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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Making very slow progress with the TTR as I've been racing a couple of times on the LC.  Good news for me about that is that, aside from a leaking seal that I caused by being a muckanic, it's been running well.  Not as fast as others but, ce la vie.  Did the National championship & finished 7th of 20 million in the Period 5 350 class and 11th or so in the Period 5 500 class.  Had a club day after that and won the 350 class, 2nd in the 500.  It's getting a braced swingarm, with needle rollers, before I go to Mt Gambier at the end of the year.

Anyway, that's just a sideline.

I've got the engine sitting in the frame.   I've given the mounting plates and bolts a blast and painted them with engine enamel.  An old frying pan does the job of baking the paint.

 

IMGA0467.JPG

 

I also painted the swingarm and a heap of other small components, waiting for new parts.

IMGA0459.JPG

 

Now it's the forks.  I'm stuck without a damper rod holding tool.  Using the search function while I have some lunch.

 

 

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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I need a nut that is 27mm ATF. Weld it to a suitable tube and then add a 1/2" socket drive at the top.

Or take a drive down the road, see if the local bike shop have a tool.

Still waiting on my nearest Yamaha dealer to reply to my parts request email. They don't want the business?



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250



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Could you be creative with a disc cutter/grinder/hacksaw perhaps?

This is what TTR Steve made for me - works well but could do with a socket adding to the top rather than me using ViseGrips on it biggrin

Fork tool.jpg



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Thanks for that.  I bought the stuff I needed yesterday - 18M nut (27mm across the flats), a length of mild steel tube 25mm od and a 16M that I found that I bought in case I couldn't find the 18M.  And some welding rods for my inherited, ancient arc welder.

I ground the bevel off of the nut and welded the other side to the tube.  Checked that it fit - yes.  Cut the tube to get a usable length and then welded the 16M nut to the other end.

IMGA0473.JPG

I wonder if I'll ever find a damper rod that has a 26mm hex inside it - I could use my double ended tool.

So that worked a treat.  Pulled them apart - it is quite difficult to remove the fork tube from the slider.  Needs a fair bit of force and it drags both seals out with it.

Then the sliders were cleaned and, I've painted them.  Now hanging in the sunshine.

I rang the Yamaha shop.  They said 'oops'.  Forgot my email.  I am waiting for another week or so, I expect.  It would be best if they just had an on-line parts quoting & ordering system, particularly since they are a country dealer.  It would be good if they could send them direct, rather than double handling.

 

Waiting, waiting.

 

 



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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD350LC, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 Tiger 955, '02 TTR250

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