A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Resurrection of a scrapheap '02 TTR

petenz · Super Guru

it will come up great....

bearing are cheap if you don't go to a motorbike shop for them...

I find it hard to turn down a free motorbike aswell...

I was given a 80 Kawasaki KL250 a few weeks ago
like yours it is now in bits...

..

-- Edited by petenz on Monday 17th of September 2018 07:10:36 AM

-- Edited by petenz on Monday 17th of September 2018 07:12:55 AM

ttboof · Super Guru

Looks like it will come up pretty well seeing how far you have gone with yours doing the motor in mine isn't a big job biggrin

tripodtiger · Senior Member

I started to have a go at the wheels. Managed to get the front tyre off, as normal but - I reckon my technique with the rear, fitted with a rim lock, must be wrong. I've thought about it and reckon that starting with the levers at the rim lock, so that the bead comes away, may produce a better result. As it is, the tyre is stuck to the rim lock, so it wont fall into the rim valley and, following on from that, I can't stretch the opposite side over the rim. Not feeling terribly well, so I didn't persist with it. Have another go at it 'ron.

I also have had trouble getting a drift onto the inner wheel bearing race, as the bearing spacer doesn't want to move far enough out of the way. Things that make you go hmmmm.
May force me to buy a proper bearing removal tool, which I could justify having, I suppose.

The front seals were chocka block full of nice clean grease and they turn very smoothly. Reckon I may just leave the bearings undisturbed.

I succeeded down at the local auto paint supplier in getting a couple of aerosol cans of deep purplish blue metallic. I hope the match is okay, as I've done a bit more frame cleaning and there is quite a lot of paint off at lots of parts of the frame.

Heading off soon to see if the engine is finished. Les hasn't rung and he wasn't at our Classic Club meeting on Monday.

Now I'm wondering if I can enlist my younger son to get interested in this resurrection. He said he want's his rider licence but, yet to see him bother doing anything about it. Maybe I can get him to pay for the parts.

Slowly slowly, catch-ee monkey.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Sorry to hear of the problems Ray.

I haven't come across the rim lock sticking to the tyre before. Is it free from the rim itself and moving with the tyre?

Whether it's stuck in the rim and/or the tyre, put the nut back on, stand the wheel upright with the rim lock section on the ground and give it a few whacks to free it up. An ordinary hammer may not fit between the spokes but a weighty tyre lever would do it - just make sure you don't miss the nut and damage the rim - maybe pack some rag around the stem of the rim lock before attacking it.

Otherwise can you get the tyre in the vice and squeeze it up to see if that separates the rim lock?

If you aren't going to re-use the tyre then you can get creative with a hacksaw wink

Regarding removing the wheel bearing, do you have a MIG or arc welder? If so, maybe can you blob some weld on the inside bearing race to give you something to hammer against.

If the spacer is that tight up against the inner races then it suggests that there is very little play in them in which case maybe just re-grease and leave alone biggrin

I think I was lucky with my lads. The eldest, Matt, in particular was so keen to ride that he started to do his own dirt bike repairs and maintenance as he wasn't always top of my priority list with so many other things to do. He is in his 30s now with a young family but still has a trail bike which he gets out on occasionally - family pressures permitting. His teenage son is not the least bit interested in oily things though An old picture of my lads below, Tom on the left and Matt on the right. CRF90 and KX100 - I think.... Plus one of Matt getting some air at the old Patchquick MX track.

Brian

PS I hope you feel better soon!

Patchquick fun (2).JPG

Matt on KX100 at Patchquick.JPG

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Feeling a bit over the cold now so, out to the garage!

First job was to fit new tyres to the RD. I had stainless spokes fitted while I was away, I also cleaned up the rusty bits, treated them with a bit of rust converter (Hammerite Kurust) and then some cold gal paint over the lot. Dunlop TT100 GP for the little old girl. They look period correct and stick well. Only problem, the normal 90/90 front is now, for unknown reasons, a 3.00 - by my reckoning that makes is a 75/90. It is narrower but, given the use that bike gets, not a drama.

Then I turned attention to the TTR frame, swinging arm and later, the tank.

I was over playing with tyre levers. The rear tyre isn't going anywhere.

I pulled the swinging arm links off without noting which way it went (hope I've got some photos of it elsewhere...) and gave it a bit of a wash with detergent. I noted that there are some needle rollers in there. To be replaced. I didn't notice any grease nipples. Am I blind?

Same with the frame. Removed the only broken stud at the rear and cleared a lot of the remaining dirt and oil and grease that remains.

I'll re-do it all with some degreaser and then pressure wash it before I progress to prepping for some paint.

Then I had a go at the tank.

I put some heat onto the less sun affected left side, for a few minutes. Got a bit bored so I changed to wet & dry.

Wet sanding took the majority of the white discolouration off.

Then I had another go with some more heat. As I was going I could see the colour of the surface change as it got hot, moving the heat gun according to what I was seeing.

It took about an hour or so to get it to this point. It's never going to be attractive, is it. Unfortunately, I did get a little carried away on the concave section and burnt the plastic. Looks like I may have to burn the corresponding portion of the other side.

Lastly, I did what I've done with the filler neck of the tank on my 900 Tiger. Hot metal rod through the plastic to let it breathe whilst filling, and to fill it with the last 1/2 litre.

ttboof · Super Guru

Wheel bearings used to be a bugger until I went to

Putting a Dyna bolt (concrete anchor bolt )into the bearing tightening it up then a bit of heat on the the hub then punch it out from the other side as the Dyna bolt gives something to hit. 9 times out if ten an easy fix

ttboof · Super Guru

Might do the hot rod MOD on my tank it's always annoying getting that last bit of fuel in

petenz · Super Guru

ttboof wrote:
Wheel bearings used to be a bugger until I went to
Putting a Dyna bolt (concrete anchor bolt )into the bearing tightening it up then a bit of heat on the the hub then punch it out from the other side as the Dyna bolt gives something to hit. 9 times out if ten an easy fix

dyna bolt..... why didn't i think of that....

i used a exspanding mandle for holding stuff in a lathe...

my set now has one that don't work anymore..

did get the bearing out though...

..

robs · Senior Member

Tripod - have you thought about possibly dying your tank? Instructions here - www.youtube.com/watch

I've got the stuff to do this (ordered dye from america, a spare tank, and a tea urn) but am yet to find the time to do it..

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Geez dyna bolt! - I forgot about that! Heat it, freeze & release then hitting it with a drift is usually effective. Dyna bolt has only worked for me once before, but it did work..

thanks.

tripodtiger · Senior Member

I'm progressing. I managed to get a first etch prime on the frame before it started to rain last night (rain? rain? geez, what's that?). Nice and clear this morning, so back out to the clothes line, another coat of primer, a couple of coats of base colour and clear over the top.

It's cheap and nasty result, because I didn't spend the money on blasting the frame. Point is, it's a trail bike. I'm going to fall off, ride it in sand,mud and rocks. It ain't that important.

Thanks for the video link, Robs. Not within the parameters of this particular project. If it was an IT 250 or something of greater historic value, certainly. Let's see what happens if I still have it in 15 years time. Just goes to prove, if you can think of something, someone has probably already done it. If they haven't, best pull your finger out and get in quick.

I did manage to get the rear tyre off. Is it normal for the rim tape to go over the rim lock? It turned out that the tube was stuck to the tyre too. I couldn't get a lever in at the rim lock, so I went 1/4 way around (90 deg) to start. That was easy.

Got a classic bike rally this weekend, so I will resume next week. Maybe I may have an engine by then but, doesn't matter as I reckon I'd be best served installing that after it's back on it's wheels.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Good to get the update and see progress is being made!

I always put the rim tape over the rim lock as it helps manoeuvre it when putting on the tyre. Steve stocks some handy rim lock washer/bolt sets that help the nut seat properly and help keep water out of the insides - see here

Its a lot easier to put the engine back in when the TTR is back on its wheels. You maybe will want to put some tape over the frame to stop scratching up your new paint wink

Brian

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Neither my 950 nor 690 had rim locks. In contrast, my '80 XS11 has them for the rear - I've not used them since the first tyre change after I bought that bike nearly 30 years ago.
Maybe I'm just a woose with a limp right wrist?

In any event, I wasn't going to bother, as the rear will basically stay above 19 psi.

I have to make some sort of start on my parts list, beyond just some idea of what I need. First will be steering head bearings. Finges crossed I can save the lower bearing seal and get replacements from the local bearing shop. Save some dollars when possible.

tripodtiger · Senior Member

The frame is painted. It's presentable.

What would by Irish mate call it? 'Bodgit & Scarper' on the job. My wife and I have only been back from Europe for a month, spent the last 5 weeks of 3 month trip, in Ireland. Based at McGoo's home in Killinchy, visited the north & north west coast, and then down south to Cork and Ring of Kerry area. Also went to the Ulster GP, Classic TT & Manx GP and our last day was at the road racing in Killilane, near Dublin. What a fabulous place, with fabulous people. Sorry, off track for a moment.

And the steering head bearing came off the lower stem, with some 'dremel & impact' encouragement. I've got myself the install drifts now & I can visit the local bearing shop to see if they are available. The seals are integral with the bearing, so no saving them.

A bit of work on the swinging arm. The only thing I need to replace will be the oil seals for the end caps. When I pulled it apart, there was plenty of grease in there and the bearings are really smooth to roll. All good, eh!

Yet to decide whether to give the swing arm a quick coat of aluminium paint or just leave it. Probably the latter.

And I've started my parts list, it's quite long with many relatively small consumable parts that all need replacing. Buy locally at twice the price? Send a big order to the boss on here or pick from a hundred different suppliers on ebay? Ebay is always a risk, IMHO. Only advantage is that I could spread the purchases out over a period of time, but pay lots in freight. And I like my local Yamaha dealer (only 140km away).

I've also been doing a bit on my 350LC race bike, just breaking things as I check them - just normal stuff. Still waiting on info whether I can swap a TZ750A barrel set (2 cylinders, 347cc) for a later set (373cc) for my other LC race bike. And waiting on conrods & pistons from Fondseca for the hybrid TZ/LC too - at least that's already paid.

It's all happening!

tripodtiger · Senior Member

And I got this, yesterday.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Ready to rock'n roll!

Spray the swing arm - only take a short time. You will regret it if you don't wink

Should have said earlier but to resurrect a tank (or any panels) with that much dead plastic, I have found the only real answer is to scrape ti off with a sharp Stanley (or craft) blade. Then use wet & dry paper and then make it shiny with a heat gun.

It looks like one of your swing arm bearing covers has been attacked by the chain so make sure that your chain slider is in good order. I tend to run a slightly bigger front sprocket these days to help keep the chain from biting the swingarm.

Good luck with your final efforts - you are so nearly there biggrin biggrin

Brian

ttboof · Super Guru

If it wasn't for eBay my gearbox rebuild wouldn't have been worth doing

I got the complete gearbox internals on eBay and bits and pieces from a couple of Yamaha dealers I pass driving for work

Full top to bottom rebuild with new piston ect just a little over $500 we are lucky in Australia parts are avalable and a good price

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Actually, not that close. My list is quite long. Chain slider was one of the first parts on the list. So you reckon a 15T countershaft is the g.o.? Just did that arithmatic. Phil's farm gearing was 14:48. Need to go 15:51 to get it similar. May go 15:50 to start with, just slightly taller. I've seen there is a gearing sticky to tell me the number of links I will need. Cool, someone's done the work!

And I got my TZ bits this morning, from Fondseca. Woo Hoo! That means a trip to Wodonga today, and the Yamaha dealer is in the adjacent town, enroute! Egg sell ant!

Slowly slowly, otherwise I may just break the bank.

petenz · Super Guru

tripodtiger wrote:

And I got my TZ bits this morning,

A real TZ ?.... what year....

I raced a 77 TZ350D for a couple seasons...

but went back to the 410cc production class on a 80 RD400G "last of the air cooled 400"

.

tripodtiger · Senior Member

See the 'RD373LC' mentioned in the bottom line?

A couple of years ago I wanted a second bike to go with the 350LC. I'd been watching this fellow riding an LC with TZ750 top end, TZ wire wheels, FZR forks, 34mm carbs ride around. He was keeping up with the mega dollar Ducati 500 Pantahs that win the major events. Anyway, the bike became available and, when the price dropped down to where I could afford it, I bought it.

Unfortunately, the first thing to go was the water - the remodelling of the inlet tracks left the metal so thin that it perforated and pump the water through the cylinder.

When I pulled it down, I discovered the left hand crank was separating. That ended up costing me a new crank etc.

Last thing, 18 months ago, at Phillip Island, I broke both engines, big time. Suffice to say we have no real reason but speculate that, for various reasons, both became hydra-locked whilst trying to get each of them running.

It's been a case of juggling the interests. I did the 350 first and the 373 has sat and waited.

So, my TZ bits are a pair of rod kits and piston kits. The bottom end can go back together via my mechanic. I haven't had the cylinders repaired - can send them to New Zealand for that. I know a bloke who's a bit well known regarding Yamahas and, I may be a set of barrels through him. Waiting to hear back from him.

So, that's my TZ bits. That bike was on the back burner until the parts arrived.

-- Edited by tripodtiger on Thursday 11th of October 2018 09:14:28 AM

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Making very slow progress with the TTR as I've been racing a couple of times on the LC. Good news for me about that is that, aside from a leaking seal that I caused by being a muckanic, it's been running well. Not as fast as others but, ce la vie. Did the National championship & finished 7th of 20 million in the Period 5 350 class and 11th or so in the Period 5 500 class. Had a club day after that and won the 350 class, 2nd in the 500. It's getting a braced swingarm, with needle rollers, before I go to Mt Gambier at the end of the year.

Anyway, that's just a sideline.

I've got the engine sitting in the frame. I've given the mounting plates and bolts a blast and painted them with engine enamel. An old frying pan does the job of baking the paint.

I also painted the swingarm and a heap of other small components, waiting for new parts.

Now it's the forks. I'm stuck without a damper rod holding tool. Using the search function while I have some lunch.

tripodtiger · Senior Member

I need a nut that is 27mm ATF. Weld it to a suitable tube and then add a 1/2" socket drive at the top.

Or take a drive down the road, see if the local bike shop have a tool.

Still waiting on my nearest Yamaha dealer to reply to my parts request email. They don't want the business?

TTRfan · Super Guru

Could you be creative with a disc cutter/grinder/hacksaw perhaps?

This is what TTR Steve made for me - works well but could do with a socket adding to the top rather than me using ViseGrips on it biggrin

Fork tool.jpg

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Thanks for that. I bought the stuff I needed yesterday - 18M nut (27mm across the flats), a length of mild steel tube 25mm od and a 16M that I found that I bought in case I couldn't find the 18M. And some welding rods for my inherited, ancient arc welder.

I ground the bevel off of the nut and welded the other side to the tube. Checked that it fit - yes. Cut the tube to get a usable length and then welded the 16M nut to the other end.

I wonder if I'll ever find a damper rod that has a 26mm hex inside it - I could use my double ended tool.

So that worked a treat. Pulled them apart - it is quite difficult to remove the fork tube from the slider. Needs a fair bit of force and it drags both seals out with it.

Then the sliders were cleaned and, I've painted them. Now hanging in the sunshine.

I rang the Yamaha shop. They said 'oops'. Forgot my email. I am waiting for another week or so, I expect. It would be best if they just had an on-line parts quoting & ordering system, particularly since they are a country dealer. It would be good if they could send them direct, rather than double handling.

Waiting, waiting.

tripodtiger · Senior Member

The problem with not taking sufficient photos. And making assumptions.

I've been laying the wiring loom into the frame. What a **** fight!
I remember when I pulled it off it seemed to be twisted onto the opposite side of the central spine twice. Well, that recollection was correct. Very strange indeed.

I also just made the assumption that Yamaha would not confuse things by having the wiring change colours at connections. I just disconnected everything, as there didn't appear to be any similar connections near to one another.

It is all coming together but it's a trial comparing what I have, dirty and horrible, in the original snaps with what I have now that I've cleaned it all up. It really doesn't look very similar.

My pile of parts has turned up at Albury. So a half day drive to pick up my Xmas presents to myself is in order.

I've also been replacing the various bolts on the frame with stainless steel cap heads, where suitable. A few more parts have been blasted, and painted ready for the frying pan. The wheels are with a friend who does wheels as a sideline and have followed his advice to just replace the wheel bearings, so I bought them as well.

It's all coming together. I wonder how far I'll get before I have to load the trailer for Mac Park after Christmas.

Cubber · Super Guru

tripodtiger wrote:

It's all coming together. I wonder how far I'll get before I have to load the trailer for Mac Park after Christmas.

Ho - ho - ho! biggrin biggrin

It looks good and by reading it sounds good.

Hope your post Christmas trip to Mac Park bears good results, but in the meantime have a good celebration. smile

Merry Christmas to you.

Martyn

TTRfan · Super Guru

Steady progress!

It is true that when you strip something down you think that it would be obvious how everything would go back together but, if the rebuild is a few weeks or months away then the memory plays tricks and everything becomes less than obvious!

Maybe these photos might help you check your routing and connections? I have laminated a couple of them and keep them in the shed for reference when doing frame up rebuilds.

Brian

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Thanks for the photos. I needed the assistance.

I got some of my presents. biggrin

Swingarm, rear shock and airbox are all in. Of course, I put the airbox in first and had to pull it out to get the shock in. Bloody new fangled monoshocks!!! wink

I went searching for the crankcase breather point. Spent ages trying to compare the manual, which shows a spigot on the right rear of the gearbox. Looking, looking, looking.(again, I am hearing Con the Fruiterer. It's constantly amazing and amusing how much of the Australian lexicon comes from TV and film). No find. It is supposed to be here, somewhere. All there is is a plug that isn't visible in the photo.

Oye!, what's this free spigot sticking out of the airbox? That'd be just exactly where the breather goes, I reckon. That would also explain the strange cone shaped thing that hangs off the airbox. An oil filter, or some sort of oil trap? Following on from that, there is a removable drain at the bottom.

It would be nice to just vent it to atmosphere with a little crankcase filter. Wonder if it would work? It makes me wonder if either of the two drains are necessary, as both were chock a block with oil and soil.

Can I dis-assemble the cone thing to check out what is going on inside? Should I? confuse

And what is the other carbuncle sitting on top of the air inlet manifold?

WTF does it do? confuse Keeps California air clean? Can I remove it too? If it was an LC, I'd wonder if it had the same function as a boost bottle. But, for a boost bottle it's in the wrong spot upstream of the carb. Must be some very useful thing that Yamaha engineers struggled to work out how they would add it.

I've repainted most of the brackets (black baked enamel, the green has gone). A couple I didn't bother with. The bolts that I could, I replaced with stainless steel cap heads. I had to cut quite a few of them down to a better length.

Now working through all the wiring connections, including the various earth rings. Think I'm got all that fully sussed.

I've just grabbed a set of fork gators, black unfortunately. I was thinking yellow could set off the blue, like the rear spring. Next time, maybe. That means I can finish the forks and install them. Maybe today.

I'll leave the carb kit in it's bag for the moment but, geez, there are all these vent hoses running all over the shop. That'll be an interesting sort out.

I dropped off the wheels for a bit of servicing of the spokes. Rod was soaking them in Penetrene to see which could be saved. I'll find out when I get back from the South Australian Historic Road Racing championships. Packing the trailer with the LC, and all the paraphernalia that goes with road racing, starts today.

Have a merry Christmas & happy New Year. I'm a child of the sixties, so don't give me that PC over reach.

-- Edited by tripodtiger on Monday 24th of December 2018 12:49:07 AM

tripodtiger · Senior Member

I had a good weekend at MacNamarra Park in South Australia. I came 3rd in the 500 class and 4th in the 350 class. So, I finally won a trophy (Sth Australian State Historic Titles) for my own riding. biggrin Beaten in the 350s by a bloke on a TZ350 and two guns on very well developed RD250LCs. I am getting closer though. In the 500 class, I did a 'Bradbury' , ie I got points in all races and the bloke that got 4th crashed out in the second heat. Not sure, but I'm only 3 or 4 seconds a lap down on the guns over there. Which means I can see them when they cross the finish rather than still heading down the back straight. I'm racing bloody hard with blokes about my speed/capability and beating them more often than not now. Maybe I am improving? Doesn't matter, just for fun and excitement.

ANYWAY, back to the desert sled.

I've got it on it's wheels! Yay for me.

Rod got all the front wheel spokes sorted & re-tensioned. Chose to re-spoke the rear when 10 of them had to be cut out.

I picked up some second hand parts, gratis, from a bloke in Sydney. Used front & rear tyres included. So, I've put them on rather than the new Dunlops. They will do until it is running and registered or, I move it on for a WRR or something else. Fitting tyres is such a chore.

Had a bit of a bugger removing the first bearing from the rear wheel. Why won't the bearing budge? Maybe because the heat gun was on 2, instead of 5? When I did get some heat into it, the bearing came out with about four or five solid whacks. As you'd expect, the remaining bearings came out no dramas.

Sometime since dis-assembly, the double bearing rear wheel spacer must coped a bang, because it was just slightly out of round. That caused an hour or so of extra work because I didn't follow the notion 'if it's not easy or smooth, you're doing it wrong/there is something wrong'. Of course I forced it, didn't I . And that moved the bearing on the other side and then one of the bearings wouldn't come off the spacer. Took about an hour of careful attention to get the bearing off and then get it round so the axle would go through. It finished ok.

BUT - While it's on it's wheels, the rear disc wasn't included in my box of parts. disbelief Give me the tom tits.

Now for the carb.

I've got it in pieces and have a repair kit. It's pretty bloody grubby, which calls for some attention.

Any idea of a technique to get the side stand on? The spring is being a bugga.

And the LC needs some attention before the Island Classic in 3 weeks time.

I'd never get any of this done if I had to work. wink

ttr steve · Super Guru

well done on the racing. by the way your inlet stub has had it, I can see it has come detached from the metal inside part.

Steve

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Steve, thanks for that.

I initially wasn't with you. Then I looked at the pic again and worked out what you were looking at.

I've already set that aside for further inspection, it didn't seem right. No need to investigate or inspect now. Saves me some time. And more parts to order, I expect.

I did spend a fair bit of time with the aluminium cleaner and carb cleaner, to the point where I'm partially re-assembled. Trouble is, even though the Kit contains a new pilot screw it didn't contain a new O ring for it. Bugga. Then there are the O rings that are too small and the screws and washers that aren't the correct dimensions.

There is also the special screw that locates a lever inside, which needed some force to remove it, stuffing the head.

More parts to order.

But it did clean up ok.

It's progressing

smile

To be continued...

ttr steve · Super Guru

I take it you was using the all balls rebuild kit? That's why I get them in and add the correct fitting parts and also add the diaphragm O rings. See https://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0767

tripodtiger · Senior Member

ttr steve wrote:
I take it you was using the all balls rebuild kit? That's why I get them in and add the correct fitting parts and also add the diaphragm O rings. See https://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0767

Yep, All Ballsed Up it would appear. The needle E clip went into the black hole. It will turn up in a few weeks time, no doubt. I re-used the old needle as I am now questioning the All Balls kit. I do hope the brake repair kits I also bought, not yet opened, are good to go.

I also see that you've got the inlet manifold in the parts list, clearly showing where mine has the rubber has separated from the alloy. Maybe that's another reason it stopped? Maybe it just separated with exposure?

Maybe it can be re-bonded? Would need a good, heat proof adhesive.

Anyway, the carb is back together, well enough to let me get it running when that time arrives.

The jet at the inlet was the only one I couldn't clearly see was clear, using cleaner and compressed air. Everything else was obviously hunky dory.

I installed the throttle mechanism about half a dozen times for half a dozen errors I made, including the nylon washer falling to the wrong side of the E clip, forgetting the nylon guard under the return spring and a couple of other reasons I just can't recall. All really frustrating because they were all my mistakes. It will have to come apart again as I reckon the E clip is past it, just don't have a spare. And that effing spring!! It co-operates better than the side stand spring. Any comment on fitting the side stand spring?

I gave the steel parts a bit of a blast and then some primer and gold paint. I don't thik the gold will be any more durable than the oem plating. Next time - yellow or blue.

Moving on to the rear caliper.

I reckon Phil got 120% value from the pads

How does it come off the carrier? Just slides off, it seems.

There it is!b I've used the 'just' word to describe something that will take several hours of cursing and persuasion. And heat to beat the corrosion.

The job requires a full clean up, repaint and re-build. No time like the present.

EDIT. That has to be a one off! The calipers do 'just' slide off the carrier. The rear one came of with hand pressure. I had to put the front one in a vice as it was a bit stiffer. No heat, no real resistance, no banging or bashing. Amazing, Grace!

-- Edited by tripodtiger on Wednesday 9th of January 2019 10:03:45 PM

-- Edited by tripodtiger on Thursday 10th of January 2019 11:02:10 PM

tripodtiger · Senior Member

It's off the lift table!

It is starting to look like a TTR.

I ended up bonding the inlet rubber and aluminium mount, using aviation sealant. Used cable ties to hold it together over night. When I fitted it, I added a utilux clamp to ensure a seal but, I reckon it will be job done.

The carb hasn't gone on yet. It's been 45 deg here for the past few days. Tends to limit the enthusiasm to work in a garage in the middle of the day.

I did get out for a couple of hundred kays yesterday though, including picking up the rear rotor and some other essential bits, from Albury (130km south - nearest Yamaha dealer)

And rode the 955 along some gravel that I wasn't familiar with. Nice views between Bellbridge to Bethanga and Old Tallangatta. Nice winding roads, mix of bitumen and gravel. This is of Lake Hume, looking upstream, east towards the Snowy Mountains. It's about 50% currently.

Old Tallangata.jpg

It is stupidly hot.

Bees are drinking from plates under pot plants in our garden. We just saved a ****atiel from our Terriers. It looks semi-tame or, maybe just desperate. Turned the hose onto mist and filled a little bowl for it to cool off and get some water. The photo comes from here http://www.birdlife.org.au/bird-profile/****atiel

****atiel-ctThumb220-220x150.jpg

Now I'm waiting for the calipers and rear master cylinder to be done. I've got a clutch cable and throttle tube on order.

I'll fix up a battery & get a new key cut.

Then, it may be time to see what happens when I kick in the guts.

Oh - maybe I should give it some oil first?

In the meantime, I'm going to see what is recorded here about installing the carb. See how close my ideas are to what you blokes have worked out.

Back 'ron.

-- Edited by tripodtiger on Thursday 17th of January 2019 12:23:56 AM

tripodtiger · Senior Member

The spelling police don't like the word '****' as part of '****atiel, eh?

It's running.

Now to work out how to attach a video that is embedded in Facebook.

Can't leave it without one updated snap. The muffler got undercoated then primed in high temp black.

I did stick it in a steel box on top of the bbq but, the opposition leader got annoyed with the smell coming inside.

-- Edited by tripodtiger on Wednesday 13th of February 2019 11:49:56 PM

ttboof · Super Guru

looking good , i have actualy left a cable tie around the inlet stub , my train of thought is it was ok but the tie might limit the rubber movement or moving away from the metal centre i do have a spare

tripodtiger · Senior Member

I've ridden it.

Just up the driveway, down the street and back to it's cave. Changed through to third, back to first and neutral, no problems.

Pretty much everything is done. It's nearly ready to register. Everything works and I've made a tail tidy, with a white number plate light and a reflector.

I had to make a few minor corrections to the wiring but, nothing that was dramatic. A pair of very cheap turn indicators went onto the rear guard - after having one globe fail after one flash. Yep, cheap.

The brakes bled up almost immediately. I did tie off the front lever and leave it over night - that worked a treat.

Only thing that would stop it passing is the splits in the vinyl seat cover. So one of those is on it's way from Blighty.

And, whomever designed a rear caliper that requires the rear wheel to be removed can go against the wall, with the idiots that designed the T300 Triumph air filter.

Other than that, I'm pretty happy with myself.

Attitude to the TTR is ending.

ttr steve · Super Guru

Good work matey.

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Short one now. Any suggestions on why the engine speed doesn't always drop back fully to idle? Where should I be looking.

It doesn't appear to be in the cables.

I suspect it is either in an internal linkage or the slide not quite settling. Maybe in some sort of air bleed from under the slide as it drops? Any known locations where they wear and hook up?

I'd rather have a look at something specific than just get in there and randomly lube this and that and be satisfied that it no longer does it.

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Found this on the subject.

ttr250.activeboard.com/t61581190/throttle-sticking-help/

which has it's own link.

Kaos · Senior Member

Mate awesome job on the resto and thanks for the good read too

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Thanks Kaos, not really a resto. More a re-commission.

For resto, see my RD & XS.

For money & time pits, see my LCs. I've just spent the last week 'fucricating' (my version of fabricating - a machinist I'm not. But I do have an angle grinder!!!) combined rear set / exhaust hangers on my LC/TZ hybrid. Everytime I jump through one hoop, there's another ahead of me.

I got this far with the brake side. Looking functional. Then I discovered that the exhaust hanger on this bike's chambers are different to the other LC.

Re-set and go again. Multiple times. Nearly got the gear change side done. 'Dry' fit up seems ok.

I'll keep at it as the seat cover hasn't arrived, so it will be next week at the earliest.

Kaos · Senior Member

Nice looking shock there, Wiburs??

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Yep. Wilbers + NK Racing riser. Braced swing arm. FZR400 Forks. TZ hubs, stainless spokes and alloy rims. Low rise clip-ons. Pete Gibson chambers. Stock body panels, except for GSX250 front guard and a re-shaped/covered seat. TZ750 top end on a stock LC engine & gearbox. 34mm Mikunis. Brembo calipers front and rear.
And, if I ever finish them, the worlds most complex rear sets/exhaust hangers.

Looking forward to riding it at Easter. First time in over two years.

tripodtiger · Senior Member

I've booked it in for an Unregistered Inspection next week!

I did the seat cover this morning. I used the second hand seat a mate gave me. I think he gave it to me, can't remember now if I paid him for it or not. Oh well.

It wasn't as difficult as I thought. Used a heat gun, centred front and rear with staples to start with and worked front to rear.

I ended up using a few, widely spaced, sacrificial staples to hold it aligned then, worked in roughly 10cm sections, left and right to get it as smooth as I could. I am happy with it.

Maybe I should have moved it further forward so the lettering isn't clipped. Maybe the lettering should've been a bit further forward, as I put it on in it's 'natural' position.

No matter.

See the nice tail tidy. It even has rear and side reflectors to cover that part of the regulations.

ttboof · Super Guru

Looking good

It's been great watching the progress

TTRfan · Super Guru

An entertaining and informative resto thread - many thanks biggrin wink

Cubber · Super Guru

That is a startling transformation.

Well done - now go and ride it. biggrin

Martyn

tripodtiger · Senior Member

Does the fact that it's NOW REGISTERED mean that this thread is at an end?

Probably not, as the project will continue for a bit yet.
I've bought some small diameter steel rod to make a rough rack / pannier frame pattern. That'll be interesting. Luckily, a mate has two sons whom are both welders. I'll get it made out of stainless, following advice from a TTR owner over here, who's on the AdvRider forum.

Meanwhile, you'll have to wait until I'm back 'ron to let you know how it goes.