A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Looks good so far

Hey Martin, I'm really interested in this because at some point I'd like to take mine to pieces to get the frame powder coated.

Does anyone know if there are any tutorials or videos or anything about how to do this, or would the service/owner manuals be the best reference for a task like this?

Cheers,

See http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t63813609/powder-coating-information-preparing-frame-powder-coating-v-/

 

Just doing the wiring and I could do with some help I have put some pictures up can anyone tell me what goes where? 🤔🤔🤔

I am at the same point and have the same dilemma, got carried away on the strip down and ended up taking it back to a bare frame and staying. I a now putting it back together and realised I didn’t take enough photos to identify the routing or where everything goes!

I have loads of brackets and clips that could go anywhere, need to clean up the loom and hoping once that on it will help identify the positions better, however, some bits I took off after the engine was out, not sure on access if I put it back in beforehand?

If you find anything useful can you let me know?

This photo shows the wires, terminals and clips around the shock reservoir:

 

These photos show how I fit the loom and clips before fitting the swingarm and mill.

 

After fitting swingarm:

 

There is quite a good routing diagram in the workshop manual - see https://estore-sslserver.eu/totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0034

There might also be helpful photos if you look at some of the restoration threads on here.

If you are still stuck, let us know specifically which cable/connectors and I am sure we can help!

Brian

Happy to help matey and as you are just up the road, you are welcome to pop by for some help/ tea

Hi Martyn. That is a real downer and such a shame when your rebuild was looking so promising 

I am afraid you are going to have to split the crankcases to see what's happened down below. At the very least you should have some biggish lumps of metal to extract!

I can honestly say that it sounds more difficult and scary to do than it actually is.

You have to be methodical, take lots of photos as it's your first time so that you have a visual clue as to what goes back where, and if you are unsure of a procedure at any time then stop and ask us for help 

This guide may help you decide whether to tackle the job. 

Does the cylinder head and valve gear look OK?

Take the piston off and check the big and little ends on the crankshaft.

My guess (hope) is that the TTR would have stopped fairly abruptly when it seized and there shouldn't be too much collateral damage with metal swarf being carried around the engine. 

The big question is  - why did it seize? If it was lack of oil then the main parts to suffer are big and little ends and the camshaft assembly - particularly the camshaft journals and where they run in the head. 

At the very least you will be looking for a replacement barrel and piston and I see that Steve has a kit in the shop ready to go - see here

A cheap replacement crankshaft should you need it is also in the shop here

Don't hesitate to ask any further questions!

Brian

 

The head and valves All look ok and before stripping it was turning over freely. Here’s where I have got to now thought I may as well strip the hole lot 🙃

Ideally you would use a windy gun.

You may be able to get an adjustable on the flats of the flywheel boss to hold the flywheel whilst you undo the bolt with a socket.

I used to use a ground down pipe wrench which has a 90 degree bend - ground down to fit the flats.

Brian

 

I am pleased that you are having a go Martin - good on you 

Just a hint - watch out for thrust washers such as the one behind the wide need bearing on Gear 3. All too easy to miss them both on the dismantling and the rebuild!

Brian

I can't see any obvious internal damage from the photos. What does it look like to you?

The ball bearing is almost certainly part 28 in the diagram below    (Ignore the red arrow!)

This is a great thread Martin, I'm glad you got your problem sorted and looking forward to seeing the rest of the build.

Hi Steve that’s what I thought when I seen what had happened in side,I havent A clue what happened to it, I brought bike in pieces (kit form) with engine complete but out of the frame I got told possible valve stuck from the person I brought it off,so I stripped it down to find this mess, 😂

she will run again in future 🤔hopefully 

Great post..such a wealth of info and experience...as are all of the posts on here....nice to know .. and see ..... a picture saves much head scratching..

I was half expecting your next post to show the machined crankcase ready for the new 350 barrel....... all exciting stuff... cant wait......! it cant be that far away....? fingers crossed

The 350 is not yet available to buy, we have 2 of them that are about to be road tested.

Hi all could do with abit of advice, that ball bearing for the clutch that I was asking about in previous post I have lost 😱 can any of you guys advise size and material or a place I can buy one allso could do with o ring that goes with it. Thank martin

-- Edited by Martinm on Thursday 13th of September 2018 10:29:12 AM

Ideal Steve thanks I've dropped you an email 👍

Hi Martin, I'll measure my clutch rod ball bearing tomorrow eve. Currently going through a engine rebuild, so I have it readily available. As for the spec, who knows, but I doubt you could go too wrong with a hardened chrome BB. Should be bathed in oil in there anyway.

Martinm wrote:

---

Hi all could do with a bit of advice, that ball bearing for the clutch that I was asking about in previous post I have lost 😱 can any of you guys advise size and material or a place I can buy one also could do with o ring that goes with it. Thank martin

---

Hi Martin - I got a spare ball bearing here if you don't want a new one but what O ring do you need?

Brian 

Hi Brian that would be good that oring I'm after is the one on picture above item 11
My email is mjmetherell@gmail.com if you drop me a email of price and I'll pay you and send you my address
Many thanks Martin

I've sent you a private message Brian  and for the o ring does it sit in the recess of part 12 if it  does its probably ok as it's inside my clutch, I will check later

-- Edited by Martinm on Friday 14th of September 2018 01:11:21 PM

-- Edited by Martinm on Saturday 15th of September 2018 03:19:19 AM