I always put a dab of Loctite 577 on the treads. This product IMO is one of the finest things I have on the shelf of my garage, its brilliant for sump plugs to plumbing fittings including gas, there are no problems when dissmantling. It has good shelf life to.
Despite being very careful, I can't remove the oil drain plug due to the Hexagon being "rounded", I can't understand as cleaned it all off externally and used a well fitting good quality (Facom) 12mm ring spanner. Apart from the fact that I want to change the oil, any suggestions will be much appreciated. I guess I'll be able to order a new drain plug when Brian and Trish return from their holiday, but I'll still need to get the old one out-----------------
Tap the socket on GENTLY at first until it gets a good seat and a long bar to add leverage. both my plugs came right out.
You will need to buy new plugs. A metric car plug worked from my auto store, $2 USD
Good luck
those tools look very handy, never seen one before, if you can get one all good
If you can't you could do what I did, drill a hole in a small piece of 25 x 3mm flat steel plate the size of the drain plug nut and weld it on, worked a treat for me
I even left it on there for quite a while, till I got a magnetic plug from Brian, as mypobox says, you might get one from an auto store.
Sorry No pic to show you
WOW, just had a look on Ebay, $26.00 US for 1 socket, 15mm x 3/8 drive
Stick to the welder if you can, way cheaper
-- Edited by BM Steve on Thursday 26th of March 2015 12:05:49 PM
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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.
The good news is you just need to find a buddy with a set. They dont get used often but when you need it, its priceless. My plugs were STUCK BADLY. I tried everything.
And------------------I bought a nice new 6 point, tapped it on firmly and out came the drain plug, no trouble. I'm feeling relieved and a bit foolish, the drain plug was good enough to go back in with confidence, and yes, I annealed the copper washer. When I next order goodies I'll get one of Brian's posh magnetic drain plugs. Thanks for the advice, Robin.
Yep - I helicoiled a sump plug thread for a mate a long time ago. He didn't have a garage or workshop so we did it on the pavement outside his flat with the TTR on its stand.
We should really have put the TTR on its side as I didn't quite get the hole at 90 degrees to the casing so there was a slight weep using the standard plain washer. A Dowty washer cured it though
Thanks for the replies. I have looked up the timesert and helicoil and the timesert does seem to be a strong repair so i must look into where i could get one of them done. Failing that the helicoil route i will have to go.
I didn't start the problem, but i'm in the middle of it now. previous owner left me a well rounded oil drain plug. I tried a reverse fluted bolt extractor, with me impact driver, but just finished off rounding it off. I don't have access to heat for the bolt. I tried a chisel and hammer to knock it counter clockwise prior to the bolt extractor. Divots seen in the flange are from previous owner attempts.
I had similar and cut a slot across the drain plug with a thin disc on a grinder wide enough to slot the middle bit of a spanner in. Must have added some heat as it worked a treat.
Still don't know what the middle bit of a spanner is called though.
You could use a hot air gun or use one of those electric soldering irons and hold it on the bolt head and see if that would transfer a bit of heat directly to the bolt itself, kinda of like one of those induction heaters. File a couple of flat sides to the bolt head first and try a pair of vise grips on it then. Maybe disconnect the battery first to be safe.
Worth a shot anyway
I got mine out with big vice grips after I rounded mine off. Do yourself a favour and get a totally ttrs gold magnetic sump plug as a replacement. Ducks guts
My friend used conductive heat device (?) chisel and hammer, got the damaged one out. New plug placed. Nothing fancy right now, will upgrade to magnetic one later.
If it's steel I think welding a nut to it is your best bet, as Johnnyboy says. This will also give it the heat shock treatment.
Devon Rich's slot cutting trick might work if there's enough meat left . You might end up drilling out the centre a bit until you can hammer in a torx bit.
Good luck!
Simon.
I just stripped the thread on the tank retainer bit. I didn't even tighten it that much, it must have been weak already. Luckily I can still slide the tank under it so even though it's stuck in place it doesn't really matter. I might eventually try and get the bolt out and attach a longer bolt with a nut on the other side. Stripping threads is about the most annoying thing in vehicle repair.
Petenz, that looks like a very comprehesive bit of kit. I think i paid about $30-$50 delivered (ebay buy). I remember thinking bloody lot of money to remove one stripped nut. *originally* Thankfully, it saved my bacon yesterday. Initially i could not find it in shed, and thought i had lost it. Made me think now what?, drill it out??? My skill level would have messed it right up. Honestly could not beileve how tight it was, i had sprayed with wd40 night before, couple of gentle taps with hammer to try and loosen it up. Then all hell broke loose, spanner, socket, nothing work, or would even loosen it. i think it's worth having something like this for *those* moments. :) Glad to hear i'm not the only one. Z
You know something is tight, when the bike moves when trying to unscrew something!!!
-- Edited by z1g on Saturday 12th of May 2018 10:12:50 AM
Geez, I wish I had read this before I started, over an hour ago.
"Just slip out and let the oil drain while I have lunch" so I thought.
Heat, freeze & Release, impact driver, dremel. Nothing has worked so far. What a **** design & then the metal is as soft as. And it was a new sump plug when I re-did the thing, which has only been out twice since.
Why do they keep selling something that doesn't work?
I ended up with the bash plate off. After stuffing the hex some more with vice grips that didn't, I took to the head with the cutting wheel on the dremel, cut a slot for a large screw driver. Didn't budge it.
I couldn't get a swing to use the impact driver, so it went on it's side.
Impact driver didn't work, it only opened the slot I had cut, threatening to break half the head off.
I attacked the flange with the dremel, trying to make a 16mm bolt head. That didn't work because I cut it at the wrong angle to get a spanner on properly. Very careful to touch the disc onto the bolt for a second, waiting for the copper washer to become visible and then even more carefully widening the cut until the flange came loose/fell off.
Second last tactic was the old chisel and hammer, at a tangent. Lucky I now had a nice flat face to put the chisel against.
Bastard thing turned smoothly on the third tap. I didn't even get the opportunity to get aggressive with it.
Threads are perfect.
I reckon it's just a piece of **** part that Yamaha can't be bothered changing.
There are far too many tales of woe, and 'previous owner' comments for it to be anything other than the part itself. I mean, even if you don't use a torque wrench, how many other bolts of any kind have you stuffed the head on. Not that many. None in the past decade or more that I can recall.
To be replaced with a proper bolt and crush washer. I will try and find a magnetic sump plug but couldn't be too bothered.
Changing the rear tyre is the next challenge. UHD tube and rim locks. Arrgh!!!
-- Edited by tripodtiger on Tuesday 2nd of February 2021 04:48:37 AM
'73 RD250, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race eventually.
"Second last tactic was the old chisel and hammer, at a tangent. Lucky I now had a nice flat face to put the chisel against. Bastard thing turned smoothly on the third tap. I didn't even get the opportunity to get aggressive with it."
Last resort was the drill. I hate the possible consequences of getting that wrong so, I reckon I'd pay someone to do that.
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In the Riverina.
'73 RD250, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race eventually.