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Output of stator (AC magneto generator) and wattage used by bulbs, etc.
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So, I'm looking for more power!  I have a '94 raid.  I am hoping to add electric grips and an electric vest.  Grips run at about 60 watts.  That's almost half of what the stator produces.  

 

Are there any aftermarket stators for the bike?  Am I looking at a rebuild?  



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Hi Michael and welcome to the forum!

I run Symtec heated which draw 36W on the highest of their two settings compared to your 60W. What sort are you looking to use? Mine get quite hot on the high setting so 60W would be very toasty wink

I also run a GPS and have not had any stator or battery drain problems.

I thought we had a thread on the stator output and wattage used by various bulbs etc but couldn't find it so here is a new attempt!  I hope other, more knowledgeable, owners will check my assumptions and arithmetic!

According to the specs in the workshop manual, the TTR250 runs an AC magneto generator – a Mitsubishi FAT25071 – with a nominal output of 14V and 13.5A at 5,000 rpm.

If I remember my school physics correctly that’s an output of 189 watts.

The headlight wattage varies depending on model so you need to check your bulb. The Australian TTRs use a 55W/60W bulb, others can be 35W/36.5W but some can be as low as 35W/21W.

The tail-light bulb is 5W/21W

The binnacle warning bulbs for neutral, high beam and indicator are all 3.4W each.

Indicator bulbs are 10W so, with 2 flashing at once, there is a momentary additional load of 20W plus 3.4W for the warning light = 23.4W.

So, the total power consumed by the headlight main beam (assuming 36.5W but adjust according to your specific bulb) and hi-beam indicator (39.9W), heated grips (60W), and tail/licence plate bulb (5W) is 104.9W

if you were simultaneously braking (21W) and using the turn indicators (23.4W) that would be an extra momentary 44.4W – increasing the total load to 149.3W

It has been suggested that the CDI could use 10W at high speeds but can’t find anything in the manual to support that figure.

However, assuming that to be correct, adding it all up gives 114.9W maximum in normal operation or a maximum of 159.3W momentarily whilst simultaneously braking and indicating.

For the sake of completeness, at 12V you would normally be using 9.575A of the capacity of the 15A fuse.

Well, that got my brain juices flowing this morning and haven't even had my first cup of coffee!!!!

Brian

 



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Wow! Great answer. Thanks a bunch Brian. I had a hard time finding the information. Perhaps I didn't look hard enough!

I had considered changing the rear lights and indicators to LEDs. I'll double check what my wattage savings would be. I would love to be able to add a heated Jacket or vest as well.

I am planning to take my Raid on a trip from Japan to England in 2019. It will be a 9 month off road extravaganza! I will be arriving in Europe in winter and really need the warmth to make it to England.

Cheers,
Michael

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Hi Michael!

I was waiting for someone to challenge my numbers or logic but no replies so I may be OK wink

Beside the TTR I have a 1955 BSA A10 Golden Flash in the garage and, when I bought it, the lights were abysmal to the point they were unsafe at night. My first trip to the pub with a mate resulted in him telling me that it was like following Wee Willie Winkie disbelief

So I got the dynamo rewound and upgraded from 6V to 12V and looked at how I could get the maximum wattage for the headlight. Swapping out all the bulbs in the tail light and instruments for LEDs allowed me to run a half decent halogen headlight bulb (the jury is still out on LED headlight bulbs IMHO) so I achieved my goal.

One thing I did notice was that the LED pilot light that fits in the headlight reflector (similar to how the TTR's does) was incredibly bright and, when one of my wires came loose and I lost my headlight beam, I rode home on the pilot bulb. Not the best but it was bright enough for me to ride through town and not get pulled over by the coppers for having no headlight.

On your trip, you are likely to ride through countries where headlights need to be on during daytime. It leads me to suggest that you fit a headlight on/off switch and an LED pilot bulb so that you can give the impression of the headlight being on whilst saving enough watts to run a heated jacket or similar.

Keep us updated (maybe start a new thread?) on your modifications and planning for your adventure please smile

Brian



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HI brian

I was  an auto electrician for 14 years  (now changed to an office job )  and your figures are correct , i actualy used to rewind a few  bike stators  in my younger days

with my bike ive gone LED in all the lights  (except the idiot lights im a bit lazy  ) , there are a lot of LED head light bulbs out there and are great great for being visible in the daylight ,

my head light bulb in my bluey is a 12w led H4,  stop tail is led also 3/6 watt and I've fitted 10W led chips in the indicators which are now super bright  , saving approx 66watts (5.5amps )   , i run a set of  hand warmers ( approx 30W) as its a bit chilly when it drops under 17deg so have plenty of  out put in reserve  . 

the led head light option is great  in they they last for ever and are very visible during the day low heat , low power consumption and very  shock proof  , it pays to spend a little more and get ones that are classed as hi low beam  (not just off road , really bright but more of a flood light ) .

( drilled a couple of small holes in the handle bars and fitted the grip warmers inside the bars , so the wires are concealed and near impossible to rip them off just takes a bit longer to warm up )

one thing to consider is once the revs are up the stator  is at full output and the regulator shunts the excess back to the frame (neg) , so running no light all only  adds to the life of the bulb or frees up power for other accessories or its shunted through the regulator .



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Phew! Thanks for the affirmation Les - most appreciated - especially from someone trained in the black art of auto electrics wink

Your post showing the fitting of your LED indicator bulbs is here - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t55749352/led-indicators-how-to-remove-and-replace-original-indicators/

Gonna have to have a go myself but am not sure whether to buy an LED flasher unit or fit resistors and keep the original. Have you decided which way to go yet?

Brian

 



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To top it off I was Lucas factory trained as per the prince of darkness

i have decided to go with a led flasher unit a bit cheaper than resistors   nearly went with some inline resistors to stay closer to original but also would have had to tidy up the resistors 

waiting  for the flasher to come in the post will let you know how it works 



-- Edited by ttboof on Wednesday 29th of November 2017 10:38:55 AM

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ttboof wrote:

To top it off I was Lucas factory trained as per the prince of darkness

i have decided to go with a led flasher unit a bit cheaper than resistors   nearly went with some inline resistors to stay closer to original but also would have had to tidy up the resistors 

waiting  for the flasher to come in the post will let you know how it works 


 Any news on the flasher unit Les?



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TTRfan wrote:
ttboof wrote:

To top it off I was Lucas factory trained as per the prince of darkness

i have decided to go with a led flasher unit a bit cheaper than resistors   nearly went with some inline resistors to stay closer to original but also would have had to tidy up the resistors 

waiting  for the flasher to come in the post will let you know how it works 


 Any news on the flasher unit Les?


 HI  Brian , i actually lodged a did not arrive last night for the flasher relay . so haven't got it as yet( rather annoyed)

Ive been thinking and looking at the the resistors that just plug inline , may be the go and keep everything original , the flasher can i ordered is for the R1 and has the same connection and should just plug in .

my only concern is the idiot light on the dash will it have enough of an earth through the non flashing side to be bright enough will be a case of continue to wait for me . on the other hand with resistors the light will be as normal (cant put an LED in as the current flow has to go both ways , the only one in the bike )

 

will let you know as soon as i sort it .

 



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the Chinese seller of the flasher unit is offering bogus solutions stalling to avoid a refund .

I have ordered a couple of resistors from Sydney that should arrive in a few days will let you know how they work 



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