Few bikes in between form TE610,KX500,FE650(still)
Found all the horse power I will ever need and then some in the Australian bush with injuries to prove it........
2019 got old and just wanted a simple e start 6spd air cooled armchair that was very forgiving with a little more grunt than the TTR250 I once had
Mid 2019 started thinking TTR250 but it was still down on the power so started looking for mods.
Then previously read about the 325cc kit on another forum, wasn’t convinced about reliability
Later 2019 found this post amongst others (petenz but more on this later.......) and hunted down a mint 2011 TTR250 snapped it up.(20hr round trip)
So basically from this very post and from the efforts I have seen from you fellas you have sparked an interest from me in this faithful old steed I once took for granted many moons ago.
I am quite picky when it comes to my mechanicals and it seems that you guys have covered your bases and have put together a quality product. The only issue I could find is the surface finish you speak of from sand casting and for me that is purely aesthetic which has no bearing on reliability. (certainly beats other alternatives that I have read about)
With further success stories hopefully to come I definitely will be in the market for one of these kits as I believe it will tick all my boxes for what I need in a bike that has a good balance between power, simplicity and reliability.
Some quick questions if I may?
Your thoughts on your 350cc kit coupled with the Rekluse Radius X that petenz has installed in his TTR250?
How is the efficiency on the cooling cycles with the fins on your barrels compared to stock with the extra power?
petenz would the Rekluse Radius X hold up to this kit In the format you have in your TTR250 with the lockup and engagement ability with those heavy duty springs?
Cheers and thanks in advance, love your work!
-- Edited by Dlight10 on Sunday 26th of January 2020 11:43:12 AM
I am quite picky when it comes to my mechanicals and it seems that you guys have covered your bases and have put together a quality product. The only issue I could find is the surface finish you speak of from sand casting and for me that is purely aesthetic which has no bearing on reliability. (certainly beats other alternatives that I have read about)
You talk about the finishes, and on the first couple of batches, they could have been a little better, but once fitted to the engine/ bike it was not at all noticeable at all.
Now the new ones are a different thing altogether, the finishes are pretty amazing, yes there are very small casting marks and bits, but fantastic looking things that anyone would be really pleased to fit to their bike, especially as they will be getting 100 more cc and torque that is off the radar!
hope I did not offend anyone, I was only quoting mossproof...
” Please note that the limitations of sand casting, as opposed to the Yamaha die casting, mean the fins are slightly fatter than oem, and the surface texture is not as smooth.”
....and to that comment I reiterated that this would not be an issue for me even though I am picky across these kind of things normally. The outcome is a far greater gain than the surface texture issue stated.
But thanks for your post, great news on the new finish and thanks for letting me know that, like I needed my arm twisted hehehe.
Picked up my 350 kit from Steve today. Very pleased with it! Not seen a red piston before though
If anyone else is interested in buying a kit then don't wait until Steve's stock is sold as it takes a long time to get a new batch made up as anyone watching this thread will know.... See here
The barrels are spray greased to avoid corrosion, and I haven't cleaned them thoroughly because of this and because dirt-in-transit will contaminate them as well. Please make sure they are thoroughly clean (hot soapy water or something like brake cleaner) to get rid of any residue from the machining and all the oil/grease. Smear the bore with clean engine oil afterwards to prevent corrosion. VERY important the bore is washed clean of honing debris.
Please check there is clearance for the starter motor by doing a dry-run build. I have reduced the fins at the back as they were a bit long - should be enough, but if I haven't taken enough off it's easier to do before the final build.
Make sure whoever machines the cases bores into the case deep enough for clearance of the barrel - there is a bulge that needs skimming lower down. (See the pic a few pages back in the thread)
If I think of anything else I'll add it here, and maybe Steve could put a note in each kit?
Looking good Brian. Is the rest of the bike ready to receive?
I am going to replace the 325 (Thumper Racing kit fitted) engine in my current trail TTR with the 350 engine once built so, yes, I have a bike ready to accept it
I have a few jobs to finish off in the workshop first but then I can drag out the bottom end I have stashed away waiting for this moment and send the cases off for boring. I might use Barum Engineering in Barnstaple who did a good job on Steve's cases.
The barrels are spray greased to avoid corrosion, and I haven't cleaned them thoroughly because of this and because dirt-in-transit will contaminate them as well. Please make sure they are thoroughly clean (hot soapy water or something like brake cleaner) to get rid of any residue from the machining and all the oil/grease. Smear the bore with clean engine oil afterwards to prevent corrosion. VERY important the bore is washed clean of honing debris.
Please check there is clearance for the starter motor by doing a dry-run build. I have reduced the fins at the back as they were a bit long - should be enough, but if I haven't taken enough off it's easier to do before the final build.
Make sure whoever machines the cases bores into the case deep enough for clearance of the barrel - there is a bulge that needs skimming lower down. (See the pic a few pages back in the thread)
If I think of anything else I'll add it here, and maybe Steve could put a note in each kit?
Looking good Brian. Is the rest of the bike ready to receive?
Good Idea
Michael you read this post? Your order will be on it's way soon I messed up the label and will get it sorted tomorrow
If you have a manual and/or Brians how-to guides, take your time and be clean and meticulous, fitting is straightforward.
Jetting the carb might be a fiddle, as Dan is finding out with #3, but we're here to help!
When you are splitting the engine cases to get them bored out for the bigger barrel, what are you guys doing with the cases?. Do the cases need to be stripped right out of bearings etc, or just covered up somehow to protect from swarf from the milling process etc???
When you are splitting the engine cases to get them bored out for the bigger barrel, what are you guys doing with the cases?. Do the cases need to be stripped right out of bearings etc, or just covered up somehow to protect from swarf from the milling process etc???
Hi Steve - are you thinking of going big bore?
I think it depends on how well you know the history of the engine, its mileage and how well (or not) its been treated in its lifetime, as to how far you go.
It is relatively easy to get the old bearings out undamaged by heating the cases. I found that most of them just dropped out after heating them in the oven. They can then be re-used if OK.
I would however suggest to at least replace the main bearings as they aren't stupidly expensive - see here
I recall that Simon Chance masked off his bearings and then left the cases in the parts cleaner with the pump running for a long time to be sure of getting any swarf out.
I ordered mine a little while ago, but had to get Steve to hold off on the delivery until I knew that I'd be at my new delivery address.... Now that is all sorted, there should be one coming to Australia very soon.
Just so happens I bought a Yamaha TT-350 last week for $200 AU, from a mate that bought it from another mate that rode around a good part of Australia. 30,000Km on the speedo now. Hadn't be started for a while and the carbi was very dirty and needs a service kit. As the Wiring needs a tidy up and it will be a good bike on the mates farm out Cobar for my son, A step up from a DT-175
Ok... This weekend the first TTR350 build in Australia is about to get under way.
I've had the cases split on my 96 TTR for several months- but I really wanted a kick start back-up. I ended up finding a reasonably low km 2005 which will be the donor. A few weeks ago I had the new blue on the dyno as a baseline; I didn't care about AFR etc for this one, I was just looking for peak HP. I can't recall what torque they said that the stock motor put out, but it was just on 20.6hp.
I'll be getting my suspension tuner/mechanic to do the work for me as he is an absolute perfectionist. I'm predicting that the motor will basically be new when I get my hands on it (he once worked on my 20,000km DRZ400... It had one original gear left in it when I got it back, everything else was new. His comment at the time was "There's no point putting a 30000km top end on a bottom end that will last 10000km) He'll also be flowing the head a little for me.
@ Rossyboys: If only Yamaha had put an electric leg on that motor it would have saved me a lot of heartache!
@ Forgorin: I admire your tenacity in getting virtually the whole bike to your apartment in the lift, although I'm watching your progress through my fingers just a little It's not your usual workshop environment! (What happened to the rear subframe by the way?)
@ Gadget964: Glad you've started with a dyno run. I'll be interested to hear the results with the gasflowing. Any idea what pipes you'll use yet?
Gadget well done getting the baseline dyno done. Mine did 23hp with a 2mm overbore headwork shorty header. I suspect the 350 will show great gains in torque so should be a great ride.
Mossproof- I'm planning on a Lectron carb and custom, slightly oversized, shorty stainless header... most likely matched to a DominatoR muffler, but I'll see what's available at the time.
TTR350 number 4 rode out of the garage this morning with all 6 gears! It rode out yesterday with only 1 - misaligned selector, oops!
Now for some illicit lockdown running in. Back roads only ha, they'll never take me alive...
Well: I managed to get my motor to my mechanic for its rebuild just before the beer bug shut us down. So even if he manages to get it all milled and rebuilt, I can't get near the bloody thing (450km away) due to travel restrictions (I did hear talk of May 11 over here today)… so I've been working on getting the frame ready to receive its new heart.
TTR600 headstem fits in nicely. I just have to weld in a new steering stopper, which I fabricated today. Hopefully I'll be ready to prep and paint the frame within a week. And have it all sitting here waiting. I've decided against fitting the oil cooler just yet as the motor may end up in one of our other bikes for some reason. Once it's all dialled in I'll make a decision about the cooler.
Frustrating! I would definitely fit a cooler, whichever bike it goes into, considering the extra performance mods you're going for, and your climate. More oil capacity and cooler oil gotta help, but certainly not essential for initial setup. Here's the cooler I've built for #4. Slightly bigger than ideal for the gap it fits in (damn that Acerbis is huge!) but it holds a lot of extra oil. (85ml)
One thing that I am considering with the oil cooler, is how much riding am I actually going to be doing on it. Due to injury (from 6 years ago), combined with supporting my sons Desert Racing, I've only been able to get in about 500-1000km per year. So regular oil changes will be easy.
I'm hoping that in the not too distant future I will be able to increase my ride time... If it turns out that I can get back to doing multi day & long trips, the oil cooler is likely to go on.
-- Edited by Gadget964 on Monday 13th of April 2020 11:24:48 AM