Anyone know why my ignition button wires are gettin hot when I press the button .....killswitch Is workin fine and the lights are on....I've tried goin directly from the battery to the blue wires that connect the grey button and when I touch one of the wires(blue/white) it gets hot...when I touch the black nothin happens...
Also can anyone tell me if it makes a difference which post i plug I use on the starter realat to plug the the starter motor up to??
i currently am gettin
killswitch : 12v & 35v
Ignition button : 12v & 0v (ground)
for starters how does the ignition button work ?? By introducing ground to the 12v wire?
-- Edited by dj9ten on Wednesday 27th of July 2016 05:44:05 PM
Also can how do I bypass the neutral and clutch switches? Do I just ground out the neutral switch ?? Wbu the cultch ?? Can I just twist those 2 wires together ?
Have been playing with the wiring ? you can NOT run power from the battrey though the starter button....
Don't push the start button again....you will end up turning it into a crispy critter
you now have DC current going though it the button is to small to handle those amps...
you should have AC current that is picked up from the recifier with a diode in the system to stop the DC & AC current coming in contact with each other...
-- Edited by petenz on Wednesday 27th of July 2016 06:46:44 AM
I'm stuck here....i can get the bike running by sending power directly to the post on the starter relay.....im just not sure how to set up my ignition wire or why mine isn't working
my original killswitch blew out the diode (s3h-02) ....since I bought a new harness and switch ...(2 switches one a on and off 3 prong switch for the killswitch and a 2 prong push button switch for the star button)
everything worked for a day correctly the killswitch worked and the ignition button worked .....then the dioide in the new loom burnt out ....(not sure why ....I believe it had something to do with the 3 prong (ground,earth,lead) switch. I'm not 100% sure but the diode blew when I flipped the killswitch from on to off .....
i replaced the just the diode this time and my killswitch started working but my ignition button doesn't work ....I can get the bike to crank by bridging power directly to the post on the starter relay but nothin happens when I press the button ....I tried touching a wire from the battery to the blue wire on the ignition button ....this worked in the past in cranking the bike .....now I get nothing ....i wonder if I've shorted something out in the cdi
There is an explanation of the starter circuit in this thread which may help - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t48824180/starter-motor-problems-and-solutions-megathread/?sort=oldestFirst&page=2
I can't fathom out what has happened to your circuits as I can't follow the wiring. It is always best to try and match the original wiring colours to help diagnose problems.
On the original starter switch I have in front of me there are 4 wires. A pair of red/white, a blue/white and a black. The pair of red/white wires go to the red cutout button and the others to the grey starter switch.
Starter switches rarely go bad. The only problem I have had is with the contacts on the grey switch getting dirty and a quick clean has always got it working again.
In circumstances like yours I would just go back to the standard fittings - switches and connections - and hope that solved the issue.
@ttrfan that is exactly how I have it wired....I tried cleaning the contacts on the original switch and that didn't work .....I also have it wired up exactly how it was originally ....the 2 reds together on a button and the blue and black wired to a button .....(the black wire turns blue after the connector) .......
In the first picture the blue and yellow connectors are the 2 red wires (one turns brown after the connector) and the other blue wire runs to a ground (in order to turn the light on in the button)
in the second picture the button is attached the blue and black wires (black wire becomes blue wire after the connector)
If you still have the starter switch, can you check the resistance across the black and blue/white wires when the button is pressed to see if it makes a circuit. If it does then the issue was present before you replaced the original switch.
On the original switch it did not ...when I pressed the button it did not make a circuit .... Now on my bike the 2 wires blue/white & black do not make a circuit ...one has 12 volts and the other Is ground ....the new switch I have is good and when I press the button it makes a circuit ....but the 2 wires it plugs into don't
Lol yea it does ....luckily the wires are still in tact except one ....I'm gonna reattach the wires and cover them with heat shrink tubing .....I'm trying to figure out what caused them to rub tho
Difficult to say but either the stator wires weren't installed properly hence they rubbed on the flywheel or something fell in and stuck to the flywheel. Is there any evidence of a foreign body anywhere on the flywheel or around the stator?