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Post Info TOPIC: Left Hand Rear Brake


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Left Hand Rear Brake
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Left Hand Rear Brake. Has anybody tried fitting one of these?

Like this... 

http://www.smokn.co.uk/store/left-hand-rear-brake-kits/left-hand-rear-brake-hydraulic-kit-stage-1-yamaha0308

 



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Life long rider. Currently the CCM 450, a GSA and a Guzzi Le Mans I've had since 1981. Sold the TTR September 2016.



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Hi Paul et al,

Did you ever sort out the rear brake lever question?  I am planning to install one on my TTR250.  I ride in extremely difficult and steep terrain while carrying a chainsaw on my back in a backpack.  I often need both feet to stay upright and relying on the front brake to stop me from sliding downhill can be a real pain.  Appreciate any comments.

Noel



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Rear brake
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Hi,

  Has anyone installed a hand/lever operated rear brake on their TTR.  I am planning to install one on my TTR250.  I ride in extremely difficult and steep terrain while carrying a chainsaw on my back in a backpack.  I often need both feet to stay upright and relying on the front brake to stop me from sliding downhill can be a real pain........literally!!  i know there are several different  models out there, including one which disengages the clutch as the brake is applied.  Also one which is linked in with the foot pedal operation of the rear brake hydraulics.  I am looking for a very simple system. It would seem totallyttrs doesn't stock them.

Appreciate any comments.



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Have you seen this one

http://oxbrake.com/

 

also I did this to mine a while back

it's very handy as I don't have to move my foot to reach the brake, it's great for tricky downhills

lets you keep your weight on the pegs evenly and use the brake by just leaning your foot forward

it doesent prevent you from using the brake in the normal way

this is my first version but I'm going to mod it to be a bit longer and easier to reach

 

 

Image00001.jpg

 

Image00002.jpg

 

Image00003.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Image00005.jpg

 



-- Edited by BM Steve on Tuesday 28th of February 2017 12:58:55 PM

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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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The Clake one light clutch is the one that disengages the clutch

you have to upgrade the whole system on the TTR

a new hydraulic clutch lever, reservoir, slave cylinder etc...  it's a pretty expensive way to go

I'd love to see the setup

why don't you carry your chain saw this way to be safe

imageproxy.php.jpg



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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Hey Noel, by the way, are you really 71 ??

if you are.

 



-- Edited by BM Steve on Tuesday 28th of February 2017 01:19:16 PM

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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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A really interesting question Noel!

I recollect my late friend Olly having fitted a LHRB on his handlebars but can't recall if it was hydraulic or cable.

Looking at the different options on offer (Rekluse, Clake and Ox-Brake) the Ox-Brake might be the most viable/affordable as it uses a cable. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMV4UFU8TAw Might be possible to adopt a DIY approach to this solution.

Regarding the clutch, I think your best approach would be to use a Rekluse automatic clutch as campaigned by PeteNZ - see http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t54323204/ttr-with-a-rekluse-exp-clutch/

I hope this will start a discussion that leads to you trying out one of the suggested solutions such that we can all learn from your efforts wink

Brian



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Left Hand Rear Brake
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Steve beat me to it and posted his replies whilst I was still typing biggrin

I didn't realise how expensive the Ox Brake is - see http://www.ox-brake.com/shop/yamaha-ox-brake-lhrb/ $179.95 USD plus shipping no

Gotta be possible to build it up using random parts e,g. a decomp lever, a home made cable with solder-less nipples and make up a cable mount and pivot for the rear master cylinder.

Brian

PS I hope you don't mind me merging your thread with the existing one Noel? Nice to keep all the info in one place if possible wink



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Thanks everyone for all your input. I have already checked out the various systems mentioned.  I certainly want the option of being able to have both feet on the ground and slipping the clutch while braking the rear wheel.  I would prefer to use a lever on the RHS and not linking it up with the hydraulic clutch mechanism.  The bike is not used in any competition but simply to get me around really difficult and steep country with heavily overgrown vegetation.  The best option might be to add a T junction piece to the foot-operated rear brake hydraulics line and connect a second line to it which runs through to a second lever..............or am I missing something here?  Does anyone know if such a kit is available?  My own searches on the net have been fruitless except for one designed for people with a disability which was very expensive.  I would have thought my preference would be much cheaper than all the systems out there now!  My Yammie dealer agrees it wouldn't be hard to install one on RHS.  If necessary I could make one up myself I suppose.

Also any further input on the best way to go about this would be appreciated. There is no rush as I expect it will be several weeks or so before I can get to this job.



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And then I realised in a moment of clarity (I don't have so many nowadays!) as I was heading offf to bed, that it may be much easier just to use one of the systems already available and mentioned in your comments, for installation on the LHS of the bars. Anyway, I'm on a learning curve, as always!  I will be very interested in your views.

Cheers,

Noel



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BM Steve,  I forgot to mention how impressed I was with your chainsaw carrier - even colour-coordinated!! happy.gif. It certainly looks safer than my arrangement where I simply carry the saw with its bar protector, in a heavy duty backpack.  There is an increased chance of my overbalancing with my backpack (happened once because of a sliding rear wheel) but I am more risk conscious now and when I need to I can get off bike and have both hands free to climb over logs, go up rocky slopes etc. I also carry fuel, and tools etc in backpack.

And, yes, 70 last year!

Noel



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As much as I would like to take credit for the chainsaw mount I can't

click the link to see where they come from

http://www.trailtech.net/csm1a

 

..



-- Edited by BM Steve on Thursday 2nd of March 2017 11:53:33 AM

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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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70 and still out riding trailssmilesmilesmile Inspiring stuff.



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TTRtramp wrote:

Hi Paul et al,

Did you ever sort out the rear brake lever question?  I am planning to install one on my TTR250.  I ride in extremely difficult and steep terrain while carrying a chainsaw on my back in a backpack.  I often need both feet to stay upright and relying on the front brake to stop me from sliding downhill can be a real pain.  Appreciate any comments.

Noel


 sounds like a Rekluse clutch would suit you..... hardly if ever need to touch the clutch lever..

so yer could replace it with a rear brake lever...

 

 

..



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I run a rekluse auto clutch and LHRB on my WR250F.

Its a bit like cheating, especially on hill climbs. You can stop on the steepest hill beside someone who's stuck, ask them if they're ok and then ride straight up.
You hold the bike on the LHRB apply throttle slowly until you begin to feel drive and let the brake off. Just don't tell anyone about the rekluse, it gives the appearance that you can ride really well ;
I still run the clutch lever set the lever lower under the LHRB, beacuse I use the brake all the time.

LHRB is awesome for brake sliding around trees and tight stuff. Like a mountain bike but then you get on the throttle.
Also great for steep downhills when your body is back over the rear of the mudguard. You retain better feel and brake control with your hand and your feet aren't reaching for the lever because of the change in angle to your boots and the lever. And you can put your foot down for both right and left hand turn skids.

Note that the rekluse LHRB isn't super strong. Will lock the back wheel on turns and on loose surfaces but probably not otherwise.

I have retained (optional) my foot brake and only use it for full on Oh My God type moments.

Allow a few rides to retrain the brain and then its a great system IMO.
I cant see it working without an auto clutch though. Unless you get a Clake and they are not cheap. And Big. And complicated.

I don't know if Rekluse do a clutch for the TTR but believe a WR250F one will fit with some minor fiddling. The LHRB is generic.

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ttr250.activeboard.com/t54323204/ttr-with-a-rekluse-exp-clutch/

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left hand rear brake...
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so what do yers think....

Would a hydrulic clutch lever be ok

to oparate the rear brake ?

 

 

.



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Bikes... 06 TTR250 / 09 XT660R / 1977 Montesa Cota 348 MRR / 1979 Montesa H6 125 Enduro...

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