just looking at my speedo when i switch ignition on it says 188 then goes to 0 i press reset & a/b nothing happens nor does the speed do anything when riding it i have 2 magnets & 2 senders if the speedo head is no good i will purchase something like a vapour & sell the other parts what do you guys think is it the head might have to dig deep into my pocket or has anyone got a cheap digi speedo driven off front wheel
The Post Office will sort it out for you but Pete is right I think. Just make sure you get proof of posting in case you the parcel gets lost. Pretty rare occurrence unless its really really important like my sworn oath getting lost between Topsham Post Office and the Brighton Probate Office - grrrrrr
And put sufficient stamps in for me to return the gear after testing please
I don't have any intentions of charging you John - just trying to help a fellow TTR owner
brian is there any point you testing it for me when buttons a/b & reset do not respond i will send to you if this is not so i appreciate your goodself for helping me many thanks once again
hi brian made up my mind to buy a new trailtec bit expensive thou so i will be putting on the forum my old bits 3 speedo magnets 2 speedo heads untested & possible 3 senders how much do i ask for these or possible sell the lot as one lump thanks john
Ordered speedo tab washer and plain washer and speedo working first time in 3 years .
Thanks to Totally TTrs Steve and Lisa for advice great to have the parts so readily available .
Once the magnet has broken, there's no long term fix other than replacing it. Glues last about 25 miles! Totally TTRs exchange is a quick and easy solution.
I never found the answer to the back light question
Anyways up, this morning I have mostly been testing some digital speedos.
One was completely dead which turned out to be a reasonably common fault which is a corroded terminal.
Easy enough to repair if you have a prong of the right shape and a replacement female terminal. You can improvise on the prong but need to have the correct terminal.
Depress the tang on the duff terminal and push it out with a small screwdriver or similar tool.
Attach the red wire to the new terminal and put it back in the connector block making sure the tang clicks into place to hold it in place.
Curiosity got the better of me and I am pretty sure I have identified the source of back light!
Sadly the speedo I experimented on will never work again as my dismantlement was a little clumsy not knowing what held the assembly together
I am pretty sure that the back ligt is provided by a full panel the same size as the LED screen. Sadly it has a 4GY number so is almost certainly unobtainable separately.
Easy fit with a bit of interpretation required for the instructions.
Once on the bike I used a GPS speed app to calibrate it and calibrated at 30 mph it tracks the GPS within 5% from 10 to 65 mph ( haven't been faster yet).
Right now that I have a proper keyboard to hand I'll write a better reply.
The ebay listing above is who I bought from and it arrived within 3 days of purchase.
The unit comes with a single sheet of a4 instructions with wiring inputs and outputs on one side and the wheel diameter setting on the other.
As my TTR has no indicators I only needed to use 6 wires on the unit.
permanent 0V and 12V from the battery, switched 12v from the ignition this gives the unit its memory capability and display on and off on key switch.
I then also used the +12v signal from the high beam to activate the high beam idiot light and the negative feed from the neutral switch to activate the neutral light.
The rpm scale was simply a case of popping the wire from the digi speedo into the in feed of the ignition coil.
I tested all this using a spare bike battery first to confirm which wires were required and how I was going to wire them to the bike.
Further research on the speedo that was on the bike when I bought it shows its from a Honda from the late 1970s to early 1990s so the 20k miles it has on it is probably way out and as I only have the last 2 mot's I suspect I'll never know the actual mileage the bike has done.
once attached to the bike by modifying the brackets a previous owner had made to fit the vintage Honda unit I attached the rather large sensor to the fork leg with a bracket I knocked up and used a large magnet in a plastic case I've had liying about in the garage for about 10 years to trigger it as the magnets supplied were a little small and I couldn't work out how to mount them.
I will have an attempt at remounting the unit a bit neater but as a soak test this should be fine.
once I got the unit reading the wheel rotations I did a walk test and got roughly 4mph shown walking the bike up and down the road.
I then attached my ram mount and android phone and used a gps speed app to do further calibration.
It is a cheap unit and only time and a few trail rides will tell if its robust enough for a trail bike, I will let it get wet I wont however be jet washing it as I suspect a direct blast of high pressure water will probably kill it
Can you upload a video showing the rev counter working? id love to have one on my TTR, ive an Open Enduro digital speedo im looking to replace as the front sprocket cover catches a load of dirt, i also have a speedo healer that has never read the correct speed, even though the online calculator has given me the codes to use, its never been good, clocks show 6mph out at 30mph!
The instruction sheet states 8 to 98 ohms, I have currently go this linked to the 0v line and it gives a full tank indication and seems to have sorted the issue I had where the trip would read miles but the odometer would remain at zero.
The clock however is now periodicly resetting itself so I'm going to source a few 10 ohm resistors and see which resistance to 0v line gives an empty but not flashing fuel level allong with a working odometer and a non resetting clock.
Settings:
on the setting screen you have 3 changable digits then a gap then 2 changeable digits.
From my fiddiling about the first 3 digits need to be 0,0,8 and the last two 1,4 this seems to give a speedo reading of about 5% higher than gps ( shows 30 gps says 28).
I will update further once I have played with the resistors
-- Edited by Mobile chicane on Sunday 2nd of October 2016 06:17:04 PM
I have yet to try the resistors however I had a light off road crash at 6 ish mph where I low sided the bike and the speedo survived the fairly heavy impact.
I also jet washed the bike and blasted the top of the speedo with the jet wash by mistake again it survived with no issues.
Looks like a worthwhile buy.
I wonder of the original speedo sender can be used to drive this unit rather than having to mount a magnet on the front wheel and the sender on the fork ?
Replaced the magnet with a repaired unit from Steve, its all fitted and spins when the sprocket turns, but the clocks still reads Zero. Im a bit baffled as the sensor still worked periodically even with the broken magnet.. So over the course of me replacing the magnet, the sensor now doesnt work?
Is there any way to test the sensor too see if it does work? Or are there any common wires i should be checking are plugged in? I've had a dig around behind the lights just cant find anything loose..
It just all starts to add up buying new/replacement bits :(
1994 TT250R Open Enduro. My electronic speedometer occasionally reads zero while moving. The other day commuting home it read 0 the entire time. Today upon start up the speedo ran fine. I'm guessing either a loose or corroded wire or sensor starting to go bad. Thoughts?
Usually it's the speedo sensor magnet that runs on the front sprocket breaking up or coming loose. Take off the sprocket cover and see if the magnet is held firm or is loose/starting to break up. If not, start looking at the connections along the loom. Unfortunately the sensor next to the magnet can give up too. Only way to check this is to try another known sensor in it's place.
Good luck,
Simon.
I opened the cover over and the innards look good and clean. . Double checked some connections in the wiring that I could easily access to the speedometer display and everything looked good.
-- Edited by vacommuter on Sunday 7th of May 2017 05:50:51 AM
Looks can be deceiving That shiny round bit is the magnet, but if the actual magnetic bit (the grey bit between the shiny washers) is able to spin freely, that could still be your problem. If it is nice and tight in there, the problem lies elsewhere.