If you drain it, good luck bleeding it without a bleeding kit (it is a PITA).
Totally agree Jarrah!
I had to fit a new front brake hose to the TTR I built for my brother-in-law last week and tried reverse bleeding with a syringe etc - all a waste of time - couldn't get anything at the lever.
The solution was the tried and tested method of zip tying the lever back against the grip and leaving overnight. I cut the zip tie off the following morning and had a good brake
If you drain it, good luck bleeding it without a bleeding kit (it is a PITA).
The solution was the tried and tested method of zip tying the lever back against the grip and leaving overnight. I cut the zip tie off the following morning and had a good brake
Brian
Yeah, had a problem only the other day after rebuilding my WR400F, even though I had pushed the piston all the way in it would not bleed from an air lock in the caliper.
I also had that problem when bleeding the front brakes on my TTR....
My solution- ride it on the roughest surface possible (haha) the next time I tried bleeding it, it just worked! Magic? not really, just a PITA.
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Thanks, I don't know what I mean in "technical speak"! Just have loads of travel on the lever after the bike has been sat fora ccouple of weeks ( no obvious leaks anywhere)and after a few miles of hard braking it comes back to its usual average performance. For some reason my reservoir is at a weird angle (see picture re reservoir cap wanted) so no fluid shows in the sight glass (was like it for the mot but they missed the state of the rear shock so means nothing..)! Wanted to check real level and replace as much of the existing fluid as it probably contains dinosaur DNA!