Ok, so vice grips, torch, and every other technique did not work. Here is a pic of the aftermath, now the bottom stud hole broke on the bottom side is there any way to have this welded, drilled and tapped?
I have seen someone recovering from such a situation. What they did was put a washer over the broken stud and then MIG weld through the washer onto the stud. Having built up some weld, they then welded a bolt on the top to screw out the broken stud.
The heat going into the broken stud from the welding helped free it up.
NB - disconnect the CDi and battery before doing the welding - just in case!
It seems like every that could go wrong is going wrong lol, I think it's because the devil is on my back about spending money on it. Oh wait, that's just the wife ;) lol
If you haven't already got the broken studs out then have a look here
My friend Rik said he learnt the technique on a Honda 4 he owned where every one of the exhaust studs had sheared off tight to the head. He got them all out without any damage to the head which is good enough for me
The problem with the broken easy out is they are so hard. I have a mate who did a similar thing on a 1914 Singer. he ended up getting it removed by spark erosion. worked very well with no damage to the thread.
Ok guys, got it fixed bought a drill press and just went a little deeper into the head, re tapped and voila. I'll post pics when I get home. The only thing to fix now would be the leaky intake boot, it's leaking air and stumbling/idling high do to a suspected lean condition. Other than that with my port and polish and re jet she runs like a dream. Way more power from a air cooled motor than I expected.