Any ideas? I get cramp in my fore-finger after just a few minutes of technical clutching around, such as hopping logs, curbs, wheeling down from ledges, that sort of thing, I.e. when I'm practising my trials-y skills. I know I could use two fingers on the clutch but one feels more natural, due to when I ride at the track, enduro or motocross, or just general trail riding, I rarely need the clutch, just for a brief second, so one finger to slip it a bit is acceptable. I also use one finger on my mountain bikes.
I know I could move the perch inboard a bit, but the switchgear prevents it from moving far enough, so I'd then need to move that somewhere else to get the extra cm or so of bar left to move the clutch perch to.
Any suggestions on lightening it up?
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
The starting point to having a "trials" clutch is having a good lever and perch, a free running well-lubricated cable with the smoothest possible run and standard clutch springs rather than the HD ones.
Assuming all of that, what else can be done?
To reduce the pull would mean increasing the leverage at one or both ends. This would mean the longest possible lever and increasing the length of the actuating arm. Neither of which would be difficult.
Another possibility is to somehow reduce the strength of the clutch springs although that might not be so good in the longer term
Yes, lighter springs combined with lots of trials type riding would surely lead to a slipping clutch in no time. The cable is good, I regularly clean and oil them, I try to keep the clutch lever lubricated and the spring clean and lubed at the arm end. I was thinking about possibly constructing an adjustable length actuating arm. So if I made it and it was too light, i.e. not enough feel, I could move it back a hole or something. But not really sure how to start designing that yet and how to stop it being floppy and making everything worse.
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
Looks like we are agreed Adam! You need to modify the actuating arm.
It's welded to the shaft so might be difficult to work on in situ.
Looks like you will need to remove the clutch cover to release the rod inside the clutch that presses against the actuating arm shaft being careful not to lose the ball bearing!
It is then a case of disconnecting the cable and removing the locating screw before you can pull the arm out.
Not sure if you can get the shaft up far enough to remove it with the engine in situ.
If you need a spare arm to experiment on then I am sure I have one here.
Another thing you can try for minimal cost is lube your clutch cable with silicon spray. Use a cable oiler and blow all the old lubricant out thoroughly the first time. It always seems to work smoother for me. The only downside is that to keep it that way you have to lube it more often.
Will also try the lubing of the cable differently as suggested. I normally just stick 3-in-one oil down the cable. It was a new cable not long ago and have been doing it regularly so not sure if it would get too mucky down there, but worth another go.
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
Right, cleaned the cable out with brake cleaner, pinch it from work so it's fine, allowed to dry, relubed with fresh oil, just 3 in one again, fitted the clutch thing that turned up this morning. The only issue I had was that the extra long clutch cable fitted to accommodate the higher bars and bar risers is too long with that extra bit thrown in, so I rerouted the cable from going up the inside of the speedo to round the outside of the speedo but still behind the headlight shroud. An original length clutch cable would work better, but I couldn't find my original.
I then took it for a quick test spin after adjusting the freeplay at the lever, pulled away and the clutch started slipping once I got onto the main road. I nursed it home without revving it too hard and had a think. I came to the conclusion that now that there are two cables each one needs to be adjusted individually of the other. I still haven't got it quite right but I was in a rush to hand in a form to allow me to compete in a trial so couldn't be bothered to keep messing about with it. The deadline was today and I just got my confirmation that I joined the club today a well, giving me my number, so I went a and got lost in Solihull for a few hours but next Sunday, I'll have a better evaluation of what's going on then.
But for now, even on the hardest setting it is much easier to pull, which is unusual, because I didn't notice a difference at all just testing it without riding.
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
Although, Brian, if the arm were going free... I would like to have a go at modifying it anyway. Or if it's cheap, maybe throw it in when I put together a shopping list for the bike?
I would be happy to throw one in free with your next order