My advise would be not to take much out of the seat at once. I swapped bikes TTR,once on a ride to one that had a lowering link fitted and also foam cut out. I could flat foot both feet but it felt awful and I was glad to get back on my TTR even if I am on tip toes.
My advise would be not to take much out of the seat at once. I swapped bikes TTR,once on a ride to one that had a lowering link fitted and also foam cut out. I could flat foot both feet but it felt awful and I was glad to get back on my TTR even if I am on tip toes.
This is why I would never cut the TTR250 seat. It is so comfortable, I call it the ''lounge chair'' and would not touch it in a million years.
Although, at 5 foot 11 (just off 6 foot) I hardly need to.
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
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Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Ive had my trimmer take a little of it, so it should still remain fairly comfy. ill post up the results.
I bought a second hand seat to modify, so i still have the "lounge chair" if needed.
What brand frame gaurds have you guys found fit the best
Unless you have risers fitted, or have reversed the handlebar mountings, you will be limited as the fork legs will only drop through as far as the mounts.
I reckon about an inch is a sensible amount but try riding with the forks at different heights to check how it affects the steering and only go as far as is comfortable for you.
Wow. Thats a fair way thru.
Is that on standard cables
It thought I read somewhere u could bottom the wheel on the front gaurd if u went to far.
How much extra is gained by flip the clamp.
Thanks for your help Brian
If you check its routing is as good as it can get then the clutch cable is usually OK unless you are using wider than standard bars.
The throttle cables are usually a bit tighter and, if they are overstretched on full lock after fitting the spacers, disconnect the throttle cable housing from the brake master cylinder and flip it through 180 degrees so that the cables exit underneath the bars. This gives quite a bit of extra cable length.
If you flip the clamps then there is no obstruction to dropping the forks up through by however much you need but check the TTR still steers safely and comfortably!
I usually fit new longer cables when fitting Dakar bars and/or spacers so don't have much more data on what is or isn't possible.
I guess its too late now but the only way to replicate the "balance" reasonably accurately would be to sit on the TTR before mods and measure height of rear mudguard and bars off the ground. Fit lowering link and see what the difference is in height and then drop the forks through to match the reduction?
If someone has a lowering link that they haven't fitted yet, could they do the measurements for us please?
I cut mine down a tiny bit at the back but quite a lot at the front. This brings c of g down and forward, similarly legs, which all makes for much easier and better low speed sharp turns. All other turns I'm stood up anyway and on Tarmac it's still quite comfortable. It came with a lowering link which I took out and it was miles better without it. My main solution is push forward, left foot on left peg and vault right leg over, plan where you're going to stop and if getting off learn to jump off beside the bike as you come to a halt. After a little practice this becomes really easy and you retain a properly handling bike!
The standard exhaust weighs a ton so replacing that and junking the huge indicators and steel grab handles makes the bike quite noticeably easier to turn.
The standard exhaust is a mighty thing! I have just been to my shorty header supplier and he is getting me a quote for making a stainless aftermarket one for me.