I took my TTR to the mechanic because there was a loud ticking coming from the engine when under moderate load....
Mechanic's Comments: "Big end worn, little end on rod elongated. Bore & piston scored, cam chain has wear."
This is the big end (5MB MOV) slapping around. He said it would be around two grand+ for him to fix (including a rebore). I don't have the skill to fix it myself (or the space to learn). Since I've got 94,268km on it already (commuting) and mostly original parts, my concern is this is where the endless money pit begins and decided to pull the plug. He delivered the leftovers to my house, including a box of bits.
So, I have a 2001 TTR with the top end removed that I don't see much option left but to try sell for parts/project to someone that has a clue.
It was rebored and had the clutch plates and CDI replaced (at no small expense ) at 65,238km. The swingarm bearings need doing, the tyres are almost worn out, the plastics are scuffed/scratched in places (the worst being on the right side panel), mirror stems have some corrosion, seat is ok except for a small nick (5mm). I've also got two new gaskets (opened) for the head/base as the mechanic had already started reassembling the it when he discovered the big end was gone. Until the noise it still ran fine and rode it to work every day.
Offers, advice, options??
-- Edited by scott on Sunday 6th of July 2014 10:43:44 PM
My advice would be to look around for a complete bottom-end that is in good shape or a compete motor. I found a complete bottom-end for around $300.00 USD + $200.00 USD shipping. Engines can be found for under a grand from time to time, some as cheap as $400.00 (but rare).
Or sell the parts at a reasonable price and make enough to buy a going TTR250.
I'll leave you to decide.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
AGman: Yes, only owner. I have the manual, service book and a wad of service receipts (possibly all of them) if you want to see what's ever been done to it.
You got nearly 100000 kms out of this thing. What did you save commuting on this bike rather than driving a car? My advice? Rebuild the engine...give some love back. :) It's probably only worth $500 as it sits and it looks reasonably clean...give it a birthday.
You got nearly 100000 kms out of this thing. What did you save commuting on this bike rather than driving a car? My advice? Rebuild the engine...give some love back. :) It's probably only worth $500 as it sits and it looks reasonably clean...give it a birthday.
The bike looks to have not seen much off-road riding and seem to be in good shape. Depending on the condition the parts are in, it is worth a lot more than that if sold in parts. This is just an example, even if sold for a little less than the lowest figures below it is still a good profit..
Bottom end, needs repairing, comes complete with kick-starter clutch pack, stator, flywheel etc- $200.00~ $300.00 AUD
Frame $400.00- $550.00 AUD ONO (I payed the higher price for mine).
Swingarm- needs bearings $70.00~$90.00
Fuel tank, quite a rare item $150.00~$200.00.
Seat $50.00~ $90.00
Complete plastic set (without headlight surround)- $60.00~ $100.00.
Cylinder barrel- $70. 00 $100.00
Complete exhaust- $250.00~$400.00.
Cylinder head $150.00~ $300.00.
Wheel's and tyre's- $200.00~$400.00.
Airbox $50.00~ $70.00
Numberplate holder $30.00.
Starter motor- $50.00 ~ $60.00.
Complete headlight surround $70.00~ $100.00.
Mirrors $15~ $30.00.
Complete front brake system $100.00~ $150.00.
Complete rear brake system $100.00 $150.00.
Cdi unit $100.00 ~$150.00.
Rear shock` $70~ $150.00.
Front forks with triple grips $100.00 ~ $250.00.
Frame guard $15.00~ $30.00
Regulator $30.00 ~$45.00
That still leaves wiring harness, switches, the hardware, the stand, helmet holder, indicators, grab rails etc..
If Scott was mechanically minded I would say rebuild the engine, but not really worth it in this case IMO for $2000.00. You can pick up a going one for about that price on eBay just about any day of the week.
I am not trying to persuade you Scott to wreck the bike, I hate to see a good bike go to waste, but in this case it may not be worth fixing.
If you do decide to wreck the bike Scott, I need a few things myself, please keep in mind that I want first look at the grab handles, start switch and complete kick-starter kit (if possible).
Of course, it is totally up to Scott as to what he wants to do.
Cheers,
Jarrah
Spoiler
I recall advising a member to rebuild his bike instead of wrecking it (can't recall what userid but in the UK). He ended up wrecking the bike and seem to have enough to pay for a nice new looking blue one and is still on here somewhere *looks around for him* .
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
The problem with parting it up is that I'll potentially have half a bike sitting around for years (depending on how much of a market there is I guess), so I would prefer to sell it whole (and preferably to someone that can collect it from western Sydney ).
Also, selling off bits of the ol' girl would just be depressing
It'll be a last resort I think - still better than letting a bike wrecker have it for next to nothing.
Probably best to get rid of it complete if you need the room. Although, as Jim (Agman) says it's not worth much more than $500.00 when complete (ironically enough).
I myself have half a TTR250 sitting around just in case and a lot of spares, you just never know when you need them as parts are becoming harder to source.
IMO- You would be better off spending the $2000.00 that the mechanic quoted on another TTR250 with a good engine, and then keeping most of the parts for spares and selling anything you don't need. Not sure if you want another TTR250, are into them that much, or have the room but if you do or are, it sounds the best option to me.
Can't tell you how much of a market there is in AU, guess it depends how cheap you are willing to let the parts go for. However, I can say I have been ''on the watch-out'' on eBay Australia for some time and any good parts don't seem to last long. Even on this site not much has not sold within weeks (lowering links are only bought occasionally), but this is mainly a UK site (although I see guests from AU quite regularly and we have quite a few AU members).
I understand your point though, and if you feel that way I respect your decision. Just keep me in mind if you decide to wreck the bike.
Cheers,
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
There are some valid points bought up by Jarrah but I still stand by my advice, except I will add something else that I should of said in my first post - what are you going to buy for $2K to replace it? You can get TTRs for that money, no doubt about it, but they will be rougher cosmetics than yours and I find that bikes at the cheaper end need work - something you say you are not capable of. And buying another TTR is just the beginning, there is rego transfers and all that sort of thing. (is yours still regoed?)
Its a tough one and hard to decipher with the info we have. Do you still need transport or do you have other options while the bike is off the road? Are you going to get another bike to replace it? Can you finance a new one? Its all hard to say.
Transport options are sucky without my TTR so I went and bought a YZF-R15 (cheap little Indian 150cc thing, basically a scooter with delusions of grandeur ). Should be delivered today...
I'd love to have a go at fixing my TTR (I'm a nerd, just not an petrol nerd, but playing with things is always fun), especially if there's plenty of pictorial/youtube guides but The Women's epic junkpile presently occupies the entire double garage, minus barely enough for me to squeeze one bike in. Without a good indoor workspace it would just be painful.
600 is the best offer so far. It's only been two days though...
I'm not working Sunday, so if there's no offers between now and then and v8r can pick it up before lunch, he wins.
Another night shifter here, unfortunatly im sunday to friday every week but even with the 6hr turn around i could probably swing sunday, tho sat. would work even better ;)
Moments after delivery. I haven't actually seen the thing in daylight yet since I've been working nights
It came with a free "sports exhaust" so (FWIW) that's what's on there.. might use the stock one for wall art or something.
My TTR was stock for 13 years, but I think this thing needs a few mods. Mirrors are too narrow to see directly behind (not that being followed by cops is going to be a huge problem on this ) and the headlights are stupid (manual explicitly points out that only the left one comes on in low-beam, which is retarded; I reckon they wired it wrong and rather than fix thousands of bikes they reprinted the manual to say, yeah we totally meant to do it like that).
-- Edited by scott on Saturday 28th of June 2014 09:05:19 AM
The end part of the muffler is definitely fake CF. Main part.. kind of hard to tell, but I'm going to say fake - the molding/finishing marks are going in the wrong direction but it doesn't sound plasticy (glued to something heavy and heat resistant I suppose). CF bits on the bike itself are also definitely fake.
Can't expect much from a bike under four grand AU$ ;)
The single headlight is also nowhere near as bright as the TTR's - stealth bike is pretty accurate, I'm completely invisible to cagers. Been riding with the high beams on for the last couple of days ;)
-- Edited by scott on Saturday 28th of June 2014 10:01:03 AM
Headlight thing is not unusual, both of my bros bikes and my kle500 are the same. I hotwired mine so low stays on when high is changed over. Looks like a tidy ride :)