I just got some wheel bearing today, I went to change them after work. I started it and all was going smoothly until I realised that the wheel spacer on the sprocket side has corroded to the inner bearing race. I can't remove the spacer and I can't progress any further until it is gone. How can I remove the spacer?
Thanks Adam. PS. I don't have a blow torch or else I would have got that on it.
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
Big hammer and a socket of suitable size with long extension and hit from other side ,if its seized the bearing may come with it ,if the spacer cant be removed later you may need new spacers
If you are more atatched to your sockets than me you try a big rawl bolt tightened in the hole to give some purchase for a long drift
A smear of grease on the mating sufaces may help next time
-- Edited by chrisstdt on Monday 12th of May 2014 08:05:45 PM
Try and lever the internal spacer as far to one side as you can so that the drift has a good purchase on the inner bearing race - and then give it some welly
I got her out. Stuck some diesel in the hub, left her while I had some food and came back with a mean temper and a lump hammer
I applied some heat with a paint stripper, which in hindsight was a dozy thing to do with diesel everywhere. But it wasn't compressed.
I smashed the bearing on the spacer to bits, leaving the inner race on there. I then attacked it with an angle grinder to get the race off. I think I may have knackered the spacer.
When installing the bearings, would you just clean everything up, grease it all, then find an appropriate socket a block of wood and just tap the new one in? It's what I do replacing, crank/headset bearings on my push-bikes. Or, like I did for my linkage bearing, press them in, I used a vice and socket, but don't have one big enough at home for the hub, but could bring the wheel into work and use theirs.
Thanks, Adam.
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
When installing the bearings, would you just clean everything up, grease it all, then find an appropriate socket a block of wood and just tap the new one in? It's what I do replacing, crank/headset bearings on my push-bikes.
Yep - that's the way to do it Adam!
Remember to only use force on the outer races and make sure you don't side load the bearings by only putting them in far enough to "nearly" nip on the internal spacer.
To be honest, your rear spacer in the pic was toast anyways. If you had used it again, the seal wouldn't have been sitting on a flat surface. The lip(s) of the seal would more than likely have found their way into the grooves therefore offering very little resistance to the ingress of water and mud
Sadly the rear spacers are expensive. All Balls no longer sell kits so its really just the genuine Yamaha items that are available - see here if you get stuck.
Can't be bothered dealing with the Stealership. I think I will send an e-mail your way for a new rear spacer. I always get it faster than ringing up Yamaha, anyway.
Adam
-- Edited by Fladdem on Monday 12th of May 2014 09:29:55 PM
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)