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Neutral light and switch issues - also difficulty selecting neutral
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The neutral light is a bit hit and miss of late - sometimes it comes on when in neutral, other times it doesn't and sometimes it flickers.  I have cleaned and refitted the connectors to the cluster underneath the dash, but this has made no difference.

Any ideas where to head next?



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RE: Neutral Light - Intermittent Fault
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Dave wrote:

The neutral light is a bit hit and miss of late - sometimes it comes on when in neutral, other times it doesn't and sometimes it flickers.  I have cleaned and refitted the connectors to the cluster underneath the dash, but this has made no difference.

Any ideas where to head next?


 The bulb might be on its way out so maybe that is the next step to replace it. Bit awkward to get out sometimes - just don't be too forceful or the white rubber mount will just fall in half - I know this disbelief



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NEUTRAL LIGHT
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cry Hi.

The neutral light is staying on on my 1994 ttr250.  I have disconnected the cable from the switch thinking that it works on an earth return principle, but it still stays on.  I am assuming that the cable is earthing somewhere, but am yet to trace the loom.  According to the quick look i have had at the wiring diagram, it looks like it goes to the start switch, then changes colour.  Any help will be appreciated. 

thanks.

Mike



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neutral switch wire placement
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So first of all hello this is my first post so be nice ;)

So I bought this battered wreck from my mother (that bought it as a dooer upper/quick turn around) that clearly didn't inspect it propperly as the piston skirt had broken off and shattered into a million pieces that had been distributed all over the inside of the engine wahoo! And the spray clutch was sounding like it wanted to be free! I did get lucky with both these as there was no lasting damage to the engine and I managed to free off the sprag with a bit of gentle persuasion and carressing . any who, just a bit of background on the bike. So iv managed to rebuild the engine using the manual but it seems to over look a wire , iv figoured it is the neutral switch wire a bullet connection the only on I can see as a bullett , its just where the other end goes as I seem to have forgotten any help would be appreciated thanks ben



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Hi Ben and welcome to the forum!

Presuming you mean the bullet connector in the loom beside the stator connections, the other end screws into the threaded brass section of the neutral switch at the bottom of the generator cover as shown below:

neutral switch.jpg

Brian



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Thanks for the welcome and quick reply, ahhhh I see so dose a screw just go into the end of that nipple? Ben

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At one end of the standard neutral wire is the male bullet connector and at the other end is a brass horse shoe clip that you bolt onto the switch.

If you need a photo I can take one for you?

Brian



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If the TTR hasn't been started since the rebuild then leave out the spark plug, remove the oil bleed nut at the front RHS of the engine and turn her over until the oil spurts out. You then know the oil pump is working. Safe to start her up then wink



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yeah so told you id be back , so i get it all together and stick the ignition on and i go to just change the gear into first but nothing so i shifted up fine, i try find neutral but it wont seem to shift back down ... so now im in 5th or 6th ?? top gear anyway and it wont shift back down?? help!! please tell me i dont have to take it back apart :(( arrrrr
ben

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Sorry to hear that Ben.

Gear change problems such as you describe are usually caused by a problem with the gearchange spring pin having fallen out or broken from the casting. See pics below.

However, you would have noticed this in the rebuild so maybe something is binding? Did you check that the gears changed up and down OK before bolting the engine back together?

It sounds like at the very least you will have to get the clutch cover off to check.

This is the pin I mean:

Gearchange pin.jpg

 

This is a repaired casing - pretty much a permanent repair as that sucker isn't going to break out of its new housing!

Repaired gearchange spring retaining pin.jpg



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Yeah it was checked but not after it was bolted together ... What could it be with the clutch side?

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Or what would I be checking

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You would need to take the clutch cover off to check the pin is in place. If it is, then you will likely be able to see what's causing the down change problem.  

Hopefully its not anything to do with the selector mechanism as that means splitting the crankcases again cry

Brian



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Ok so took the cover off today and I think the good news is I can still change the gear using a screwdriver on the shift cam , but it looks like the gear leave is not catching on the bottom prong of the shift cam and thus not allowing to change down the gears, ?? It looks like it should be sprung ( the part that catches each prong) but isnt . I'm not 100℅ on this as I'm unaware of the exact movement of this piece .. Helllp
Ben

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Had another play around with it and it seems I have installed the shift assembly in the wrong position on the shaft even though the 2 dots were properly aligned. It feels tho there is two "stops" when turning the shaft and I had installed it "next to" one of the stops and this is why I could not change gear. Any help on the correct installation would be great.
Ben

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So iv managed to get the gears to work but only by off setting the shift assembly by 2 teeth so now the dots do not line up, why do you think this is and also do you think this will affect anything ? Ben

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Neutral lights not working
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Can anybody help me;

My neutral light on my blue 04 ttr isn't working. I've checked the bulb but cant seem to find the problem. can I run a test light to check it? Also does anybody know will it pass an MOT without a neutral light working?



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Try earthing/grounding the sky blue wire that leads to the neutral switch (probably easier to remove the chain guard to access it). If the neutral light comes on, the switch is at fault. If not, the sky blue wire may be broken/cut.

Can't advise on the MOT thingy.

Jarrah



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The MOT man shouldn't be bothered about the neutral light biggrin



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Thanks for replying.

I have already tried that, I took the switch out of my bike last night and i've tried putting a live wire to both ends to see if anything happens, cant seem to get anything to work! I know it can only be 1 of 3 things but could I have took a blue wire straight from the switch to the bulb holder? 



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iancarswell66 wrote:

Thanks for replying.

I have already tried that, I took the switch out of my bike last night and i've tried putting a live wire to both ends to see if anything happens, cant seem to get anything to work! I know it can only be 1 of 3 things but could I have took a blue wire straight from the switch to the bulb holder? 


 DO NOT run 12VDC current through the sky blue wire! It is a ground wire that earths when in neutral. The neutral light also runs off AC (alternating current) so running 12VDC WILL burn the wiring out!

I suggested to earth the neutral wire, not run 12VDC (direct current) through it!

Jarrah



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neutral switch wire placement
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I forgot to mention- Under the seat (near the Cdi unit) there is a sky blue wire that leads from a 3-prong diode. This should be receiving AC (alternating current) from the diode . If it is not, try the feed side of the diode which is the blue wire with a Edit: yellow  white tracer. If there is 12-30-VAC when the engine is started , the diode or connector(s) is at fault.

Jarrah

 



-- Edited by TT-R250M on Wednesday 21st of May 2014 11:58:57 PM



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RE: Neutral lights not working
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My neutral light doesn't work on ac, it lights (when in neutral!) as soon as key is turned on before the engine is started, ie before ac current is produced by a running engine.

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saintken wrote:

My neutral light doesn't work on ac, it lights (when in neutral!) as soon as key is turned on before the engine is started, ie before ac current is produced by a running engine.


 I don't think you understood my post, maybe I should make it more clear...

 The neutral light uses a brown 12-VDC from the battery via the main switch to power it. However, the sky blue is AC which is also an earth for the neutral light (try earthing the sky blue wire under the chain guard to the sprocket guard bolt, you will see). When the engine is in neutral, it grounds the AC wire which in turn runs lights the neutral light. 

 Now remove the diode that uses AC under the seat, you will see that the neutral light now does not work!

Jarrah



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Wierd set up? I've not got a wiring diagram so cant comment on that!

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neutral switch wire placement
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saintken wrote:

Wierd set up? I've not got a wiring diagram so cant comment on that!


Not weird at all, considering that the neutral switch also controls the starting circuit (along with the clutch switch).

I don't need a diagram, but even if you did have one, it would not show you the 3-prong diode. That part I worked out myself.

Still feel the need to comment? wink

Jarrah



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RE: Neutral lights not working
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As it happens I do feel the need to commment, I do need a diagram, most useful would be one with a neutral light on it which is what this thread is about. I suppose you can work that out too!

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saintken wrote:

As it happens I do feel the need to commment, I do need a diagram, most useful would be one with a neutral light on it which is what this thread is about. I suppose you can work that out too!


 Sure can...

yamaha-ttr250.jpg

Jarrah



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neutral switch oil leak
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I've got an oil leak from my neutral swich, where it screws into the crankcase.  It is hard to determine if it's coming from the copper washer, or from the end where the screw secures the electrical connection, (if that is even possible).  There were also remnants of a black sleeve over the bolt, but to be honest it was such a mess down there, that may well be black silicone sealer from a previous owner!

Can anyone confirm if the copper washer is correct, and is there any sleeve over the assembly?

Cheers

Lee



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It's shown in the fiche as just a switch and a copper washer.

See here



-- Edited by Truxx on Monday 15th of September 2014 02:06:14 PM

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It's saying i posted 1 minute ago but the post won't show up ?



Anyway click here www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-ttr250rrc-2003_model11181/partslist/E-06.html

It's shown as just neutral switch and copper washer...

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neutral switch wire placement
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Robin has asked:-

"The neutral wire from base of the engine to the bullet connector under the tank, could you give me an idea of the routing:

Which side of the drive chain?

There is a oblong clip at the back of the engine that might be used to help direct it.

Many thanks,

Robin "

It's alwasy easier to "explain" routing with photos but I haven't been able to find any clear ones so have edited a few that might help.

There are two oblong “brackets” on the crankcase rear that the neutral wire feeds through. It then goes through a loop which is part of the frame and then up to its connector. A cable tie holds it to the frame and is prevented from slipping down by a pin in the frame.

If anyone has better photos can they please post them up?

Brian

Neutral wire.jpg

Neutral wire2.jpg

Neutral wire3.jpg

Neutral wire4.jpg



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