A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Hi,
That bolt should screw into a wedge shaped internal wedge, if you have screwed the bolt right out the wedge may have fallen down into the fork stem.

Take a look at the link below as that explains it better than I can

http://www.bikewebsite.com/adjhead.htm

Regards, ff.

fast fazer wrote:

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Hi,
That bolt should screw into a wedge shaped internal wedge, if you have screwed the bolt right out the wedge may have fallen down into the fork stem.

Take a look at the link below as that explains it better than I can

http://www.bikewebsite.com/adjhead.htm

 

Regards, ff.

-- Edited by fast fazer on Sunday 13th of April 2014 10:00:57 PM

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 Thanks, ff.

The bike came to me in pieces and very neglected although it actually is a new bike. I think its been left out in the rain by the look of it. I have an old bike of my daughters in the garage and will see if the wedge is the same size. Failing that, halfords tomorrow. At least I know what I'm looking for now. 

That website will come in handy, nice one. 

If the handlebars aren't loose and turning easily the wedge may still be in place.

Just read the last line of your post and that can't be the case if you're looking into the fork tube

Regards, ff.

I just swapped a pair of rusty handlebars last night for a mates daughter. The wedge can be very hard to find as it usually has grease on it and it gets stuck in the fork tube. I tipped it upside down, rattled (no noise), I knew it was in there even though it was hard to get out and not visible. I just put the handlebars back in and twisted it around while tightening the bolt just a little. It came straight out with no dramas.

The wedges are universal so should fit from just about any bike.

Here is a few pictures-

Jarrah

TT-R250M wrote:

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Oh, in case you are wondering- the pedals and crankshaft nut are left handed thread. The bearings usually have a steel casing that holds the ball bearings in (some don't) that will do the opposite of holding the bearings in (usually) as the casing is very weak. However, if the ball bearings are still in good shape and the casing is not broken, you can refit the ball bearings back into the casing and use pliers to clamp them back in. When doing this, make sure that you put two ball bearings in before clamping as it will make it hard to get the next one in if it is clamped. Also make sure that the casing is not holding the ball bearings too tight and they can spin freely. The same principle can be applied to all bearings.

The bearings are interchangeable between any BMX with the exception of the head stock bearings (AKA headstem bearings) and rear brake axles v's free-spin axles. Some of the collars/bearings can be a different size but the collars/bearings can be interchanged usually.

In hindsight I probably should not have loosened the headstem bolt so far as then it would have came out in one go lol. Didn't help that the headstem was rusty though.

Jarrah

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 OK. I'm going to taking everything off and regrease etc. I think I might need some specific tools though. The part where the pedals attach to the frame has notches cut into it? I could loosen it with a screwdriver and hammer I think. I'll post pics later. 

It's a Chinese made supermarket bike but I'd like to give it a new lease of life. I've scrubbed the callipers today with wire wool and its removed surface rust but the metal is pitted and flaking. I have callipers from the other bike I could change over. I'm not sure about taking the brake cables off though, they need renewed but will do for the moment. 

I've taken the wedge from the little bike and right enough it fits in the bigger bike no problem. I need to grease the stem though there's none at all in it. Bone dry. 

TT-R250M wrote:

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TheWizardofOdds wrote:

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 OK. I'm going to taking everything off and regrease etc. I think I might need some specific tools though. The part where the pedals attach to the frame has notches cut into it? I could loosen it with a screwdriver and hammer I think.

 

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 The crankshaft nut is left handed thread as mentioned. The other nut with the notches cut into it should remove easily once the locking nut is removed. You should be able to undo it by hand as it should not be too tight or the bearings will be crushed (or the crankshaft will not turn properly). If you have any dramas loosening it, use a hammer and screwdriver. REMEMBER: It is left handed thread!

The process of tightening is a lot like doing wheel bearings on a car, it should be tight enough not to have movement but not tight enough to cause the crankshaft to bind.

Jarrah

 

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 My plan was to refurbish as much as possible but the cranks are quite a bit rusted as are the callipers. I'll swap over the callipers from the other bike and then have a bash at the crankshafts. 

I've bought new inner and outer brake cables but will need to get proper wire cutters as the pliers I used to get the old cables off aren't good enough for the job. 

By the time I've refurbished or replaced everything on this bike, I'll almost certainly have been better getting a second hand one instead. It's quite enjoyable though and I'm learning at the same time so that's worthwhile itself.