A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Mark, I noticed the same thing. Bought my 2004 a couple years ago. THE DAY I bought it. I also bought a battery also because PO said he didn't ride bike much during the years he had it. It also sounded weak the day I got it so I decided to order one so that I would not miss a day of riding. It is now over 2 years later and the sucker is stronger than my other 2 bikes (with NEWER batteries) Mine looks similar but not exactly the same:

Fladdem wrote:

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How do you know when a battery is on the way out? I went stalling in the woods on Sunday and despite doing SERIOUS road miles, 120 before getting there, the battery seemed to be going flat, and with no kicker I was worried that it might not start the bike, and my tyres aren't the greatest or grippiest so bumping may not have been an option.

 

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 Hey Adam,

Your question pretty much answers itself. Your explanation of your problem is a fine example of a battery that is on the way out.

As a precautionary measure, I would test the red wire leading from the 15A fuse to make sure you are getting at least over 13 volts, should be roughly 13.8-VDC when the engine is running (providing that the battery is okay). If it goes over 15-V, the regulator is at fault. This is to test if the charging circuit is okay (obviously).

Jarrah

Do you have a multi meter with a current measure function Brian? Should be able to track down the leakage pretty quick.

I actually think what you have might be more reliable over the long term than a switch.

-- Edited by AGman on Tuesday 24th of June 2014 11:10:03 AM

Excellent choice of meter Brian...current range goes down to micro amps which is really good. I bet you wont blow any fuses in it because I am now going to tell you to go and google "Fluke protection fuse" and when you see the price I bet you wont blow one up....ever...:)

The Flukes are really good at protecting themselves. The only time you get into trouble is when you measure a current and forget to swap the + lead out of the Current socket and and back into the Voltage socket. So next time you go to measure a Voltage (which is what we do 90% of the time with a meter), it places a short across whatever you're measuring and if there is enough current capacity, it will blow the fuse in the meter and may damage what ever you're measuring.

Electronics is my profession so if you have any questions on using the meter let me know and I will try my best to explain.

-- Edited by AGman on Tuesday 24th of June 2014 01:17:45 PM

That's pretty much it. So for example when you get your meter, put the negative lead (black) in the negative (COM) socket on the meter and the positive lead (red) in the A socket and switch the meter to the A range. Separate your installed socket and place one lead in the female connector and the other lead in the male connector and if there is current flow you will get a reading. You always start on the A range because you won't know (most of the time) what the current flow will be so you wont risk blowing the fuse on the lower current ranges. The lower ranges are set to 400mA (1000mA to an Amp) so if your reading on the Amps range is less than 0.4A (400mA) then you can switch the positive lead to the mA/uA  socket and switch the rotary dial to the mA setting and see what it reads on the display. It might show a negative value like -30mA but that's just the way the leads are installed and doesn't matter. Don't turn your key on while doing this on the lower setting! I'd say the current with the key on will be over 400mA so switch it back to the A range if you want to see how much current is drawn with the key on.

As for voltage, your black lead goes in the COM socket and your red lead goes in the VΩ°C socket, select DC volts (V with straight lines above it) and you're ready to measure DC volts.

Fluke 17B review

I have the same problem - battery drain on the metal tank model after a week, meaning I have to disconnect the + terminal between use. I took it into an auto-electrician, but they failed to find the problem while managing to melt the plastic battery flap against the exhaust pipe - and they billed me for their "work". Useless! Anyway, thanks for the suggestion that it could be electronic speedo as I had not known that was an issue with them.

-- Edited by MuzzaNZ on Sunday 31st of August 2014 06:24:00 AM

-- Edited by MuzzaNZ on Sunday 31st of August 2014 09:59:17 AM

I have a metal tanked Raid with a digital speedo and it seems to hold battery for ever, as far as I know there isn't anything fancy been done to the electrics. No switches either...

I will try and measure mine soon. but with my tank strap it maybe abit to long. The tank seems abit loose at the strap fitting. Tank can be lifted at the rear. I have to check my rubbers are ok on the frame under the tank. 

Ok thanks for trying .

Thanks Brian .

I bet they don't sell many at that price, i'll search for some the same lengths. Thankyou for the pic, very helpfull.

Well done - seems a reasonably close fit 

Don't forget to fit the strap before the airbox

Brian

Since I may go weeks between rides, I would like to add straight hard wire ('pigtail') straight to the battery. For years now, I have been removing the side cover (on/off=hard on rubber grommets attached to frame) & un-flap the battery flap/cover to reach the lower side of battery. Because the flap fits tight around battery and the pigtail has a lump where it is crimped, I can't attach 'pigtail' wire without cutting the flap a bit. My problem is I don't a'tall dig the idea of cutting this flap. I think it probably has to be done, but if so, would like this surgery to be as minimal as possible and to retain as much of the OE battery holder flap in a way that would best keep the stock look and not hinder the design/function of the flap. - Any thoughts / Pictures of someone that has taken this on?  -BTW just found a complete holder/strap/battery/bits on US-fleabay at what seems2me a fair price (buy now/$40+$6.10 USD [Shiping $37 USD to UK & Austrailia], "or best offer") ...if anyone is in need, do a search there or PM me for a link

Thanks for any ideas - hereza blurrybright 'pigtail' picture, but it shows 'hump'

Greg

Fitted some heated grips the other week and after a days riding with heat on battery looses charge enough not to start, switch them off bump start the bike leave the grips switched off and run for 10 minutes and bike will start on the button again, should the stator charge enough to run the heated grips, 

Brian if you read this the bike is still playing up, went laning all day Sat ran like a dream for about 4 hrs then it started missing, when its misfiring the engine knocks like its to advanced and firing too soon and wont tick over, stop for a rest for 10 to 15 mins  and off she goes and runs like a dream again for a while then it start missing and knocking again, any more ideas,

            Mick

If your battery voltage is OK when fully charged it may be worthwhile investing in one of these which would identify if a charging problem occurs whilst out on a ride.

Brian

rode the bike last week, hunting grouse super fun.  got two, got home cleaned the grouse.  Next day went out to go to work, left the key on.  Today i jumped it and fired right up let her run for half hour. turned off then tried to fired up, nothing, no lights, no whirrrrr of the starter?  Is the battery shot? should i try a trickle charger.  Any ideas?  Oh yeah 2006 us model, made street legal

Sweet! Hunting grouse -- with the front tire? Around here I can't ride in fall without dodging grouse and chukkers. They always seem to head straight down the road in front of me.

Maybe you have a wire issue or a battery issue but I've noticed a few times if I let it go really dead the trickle won't work, I need to jump or use a full charger to bring it back and then use the trickle. But if you jumped it and it ran for 1/2 hour you'd think it would have charged enough.

I have tried various makes of battery and Numax seem to be consistently good - and usually well-priced on eBay