Having recently purchased my TTR, I was told that the battery was new. It is stamp dated May 2011. The bike started fine and turned over quickly. The other day I noticed that the swinging arm appeared to have a corrosive substance on it and further investigation revealed that it was coming from the battery compartment. The battery, a GUYUE is sealed, but I believe that it has leaked. I have charged the battery and my Oxford bike charger shows that it has a full charge of 12.3 volt. However when I now turn the bike over, it turns over very slow, but increases slightly. Both brake light and head light work. Having attempted to start the bike I took the battery off and it showed that the volts had gone down. Even though it shows a full charge after charge, could it still be a faulty battery or could it be something else. Any suggestions would be greatfull.
I can't think of anywhere else that would leak acid so I think you have to accept the fact that the battery is leaking and will need replacing before any more acid damage is done Mike
I know pre-Christmas is not a good time to be spending out.
Best source for new batteries I have found is just up the road from me so I don't have to pay p&p
I thought as much but I had to ask just in case, but it does seem strange that the battery voltage is high and it still won't turn the bike over fast enough. Thankyou for your help Brian, I will have to invest in a replacement.
Logi you were right cranking voltage as low as 5, no wonder it won't turn over. I have found that the battery was leaking from the press on top, which is meant to be a sealed unit. Thasnks for the help. Mick
Logi was right, the cranking voltage was as low as 5, no wonder it wouldn't start. I have managed to source a Numax YT7B-4 from a company off Ebay called 'Batterybayuk' and with delivery it stands me at £26.94. It will be with me on Monday, as I rang them direct to make sure I caught todays post.
Logi was right, the cranking voltage was as low as 5, no wonder it wouldn't start. I have managed to source a Numax YT7B-4 from a company off Ebay called 'Batterybayuk' and with delivery it stands me at £26.94. It will be with me on Monday, as I rang them direct to make sure I caught todays post.
Secondly - face the bike downhill and put it in second gear.
Thirdly - heave the bike, in gear, backwards. This turns the engine backwards until the piston is at the top of the stroke.
Fourthly - Ignition on, if engine cold give it a bit of choke, petrol tap on then push or roll the bike downhill with clutch disengaged but still in second gear.
Fifthly - when you are free-wheeling at a decent lick ease the clutch out fully. Momentum will turn the engine over quickly enough to start it running.
If it doesn't work then push it back up the hill and try again.
Best bet is to get a new battery if yours is not holding its charge.
TTR battery (Numax YT7B-4) from Positive Batteries do a quick turnaround at a competitive price.
Thank you, I was trying it in first and just lock rear wheel when let clutch out, It is supposed to be a new battery in it I will charge it again and if that dont work bump it, wonder why yamaha never fitted a kick start as main competion of the time was suzuki dr 250 and 350, kawasaki klr 250 and honda xr250 which all had kick start and some both.
really want to find a kick start for it I normaly never buy a bike with out a kick start.
Are the polisport head lights on total ttr any good and road legal
A kickstart option was available on the metal-tanked TTRs and I have had quite a few go through TTR Towers with them fitted. All blue plastic-tanked TTRs have dual start.
ttr fan could you message me at (saharvey@hotmail.co.uk) when you get a kick start kit in, as i would be intrested in getting one asap,
dont like the head light i got on as not very secure and only got one bracket on each side and move arounds abit.
abit odd about battery, doesnt help that head light comes on straight away when you turn ignition on as that zaps abit of power.
might have to order one of those polisports units.
You are on the waiting list for a kickstart kit!
The easiest way to save the battery is to cut into the dip wire (yellow I think) when you fit your new headlight and put in a switch such as this one - http://www.ttr250.com/TTR_extras/#light_switch
The headlight always on is a safety plus though...
''abit odd about battery, doesnt help that head light comes on straight away when you turn ignition on as that zaps abit of power.''
You could just pull the low beam spade terminal off the bulb so that lights are off when the ignition is on. You still have the high beam connected when you want lights. Most bikes ride with the high beam on anyway.
The battery doesn't like going flat, best to keep an 'optimiser' charger plugged in when garaged. Even a new battery if left to go flat won't hold its charge as well next time its charged up. I would buy a new one as its always going to be a worry when you haven't got a kickstart backup.
I put the TTR project battery on charge last night and it is dead. Doesnt even register on the charger so will need to replace it.
This one is a motobatt and to be honest it 'looks' new unless it was steam cleaned while the rest of the bike was left with a layer of dirt everywhere else
Before I head off and order any old battery, which battery would you recommend as tried and tested?
I'm using a Motobatt battery now & it seems like it has heaps of go. Lasts ages cranking & plenty of power. We will see how long all those good things last
...........................
Jarrah.
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I ordered 2 Numax batteries from the Ebay store Brian mentioned but ended up with a Varta battery for my CRF250X and a dynavolt for the TTR so I wont be able to give any feedback on this sorry.
Not complaining about the replacements as both of these batteries are double the price of the numax versions!
Buy a low ampere solar panel, Thats what trickle charges my triumph thunderbird over the winter,works a treat but make sure its low amp otherwise you might boil your battery.
Look for something 1-1.5 w,no higher if you can get one less than 1 w even better,somewhere on the web is a formula for working out the correct charge rate according to your battery amp hours.
Mines actually 1.5 w but it only kicks that out on really sunny days, the uk is not sunny most of the time and therefore I get away with it as the charger is usually putting out less than the max.
-- Edited by Andy_C on Sunday 22nd of September 2013 10:45:13 PM
-- Edited by Andy_C on Sunday 22nd of September 2013 10:46:05 PM
-- Edited by Andy_C on Monday 23rd of September 2013 06:19:18 PM
i have a fully charged 12 volt car battery removed from the vehical. If i were to remove the TTR battery and connect the
postive to positive and negative to negative ( like a jump start ) but both batterys out of the machines. would it work as a trickle charge over night topping the TTR battery and keeping it healthy.
i have a fully charged 12 volt car battery removed from the vehical. If i were to remove the TTR battery and connect the
postive to positive and negative to negative ( like a jump start ) but both batterys out of the machines. would it work as a trickle charge over night topping the TTR battery and keeping it healthy.
I did A Level physics at school which included a lot of electrickery stuff but I have forgotten more than I ever learnt!
Thinking about your question, I don't think anything would happen as the TTR battery isn't going to draw current from the car battery - all will be at rest surely?
TTR. Battery now is 12.4 volt on multi meter. I cant atart the bike for another 3 months. Car battery is fully charged on 12.8 volt. I thought they may have evened them selfs out with say 12.6 in each. Damage to the TTR battery is my main worry. I will test it in the next few days and see what happens.
hi can anyone help me i was stripping my bike down today and cleaning it. when i noticed the battery negitave was going to the red wire at the top and the positave was going to the bottom look at the pic attach is this the wrong battery, and if it is wrong will it of done any damage. thanks paul
-- Edited by pauls ttr on Sunday 26th of January 2014 08:24:28 PM
without looking at mine,and going by the orientation of the battery bolts in relation to the wires,all looks ok,you could follow the lower wire and see if it goes to solenoid to put your mind at ease.
solenoid wire is the shiny black thing to the right on your pics
i only started it once when i bought it, it started ok and runs fine. what do you mean Could the polarity of the battery have been reversed in some way. wat does the red and black wire go to thanks paul
Fitting a kickstarter would be a great idea but realistically will probably never happen as they are not available from Yamaha anymore TTBOMK. There are a few kits online that I saw for around $450.00 AUD but at that price it is not worth it, although it seems to be the going price for them.
Jarrah
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Hi there all, I would like some opinions to confirm what I think?
So my lovely TTR starts first time every time on the kick, but trying the starter button just struggles to turn. So I did some checks this is what I found...
Bike running more than enough voltage and stable going to battery - 13 volts ish
Bike stopped ignition off - 12 volts ish on battery
Turn ignition on and voltage drops to 8.3 volts straight away before pressing anything
Press starter and voltage drops to 6 and then returns to 8
Ignition off only 9 volts left now
I would say that the battery is dead on this testing.. Why would a drop from over 12 to 8 happen straight after switch on??
Surely 8 volts is not enough to turn over the bike?
Any advise or ideas from you helpful people on here would be great..
Ive had a good run out of the orginal yamaha battery. Its a 2007 auzzy model and i guess the battery came with the bike from Japan in 2007. Im gunna try and get to 2017 before i replace it. ( only joking) but it is 7 or 8 years old. Winter here in Auzzyland maybe its close to its last legs. Time will tell. Bike still starts easy so far. Wonder if anyone has a battery that has lasted many years.