Hey guys. I acquired my 03 TTR 5 years ago from a friend who bought it new, but hardly ever rode, cleaned, or maintained it. I ride it hard, and always do a good job of changing the oil and filter, cleaning the air filter, and I clean my carb about once per year. But the bike has never had any major maintenance. Should I be messing with the clutch, valves, bearings, suspension, or any other components proactively to avoid a breakdown?
After dreaming of a later model bike for years, Ive finally learned that the old TTR (aka the billy goat) really is a much better machine for rough trail riding that the newer bikes. my buddies with 250 and 450 X's struggle to keep their front wheel on the ground while climbing steep hills, while I just trot right up them. Plus the thing is just indestructible. So I've decided I want to keep it, take better care of it, and do some upgrades to improve the performance. I've already read most of the upgrade posts, but my question here is about major maintenance. Any tips? I honestly know nothing about clutches and valves, so I don't want to tinker if it is better left alone. But my instinct tells me a 10 year old bike is probably do for some in-depth maintenance.
I would not mess with the clutch unless it starts slipping. You will be warned before any major break-down so there is no need to worry about that. Valves hardly ever need re-shimming but it may pay to check...
The timing chain should be replaced if it has done a few klms, the swingarm linkage bearings should be regreased with Lithium grease, the steering stem bearings should also be regreased (lithium), any pivot points should be lubricated with engine oil or grease (brake levers, side stand etc.) cables should be lubricated with white Lithium grease, brake calipers should be cleaned and the pivot pins regreased (lithium), wheel bearings should be checked/regreased with wheel bearing grease and the spokes checked for tightness.
I may be missing something?
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
I don't see any grease fitting for the steering or swing are linkage. How do I grease them? Do I have to disassemble them?
No grease nipples on the steering head bearings. A common mod is to drill the frame tube and fit a grease nipple but, be warned, it takes a lot of grease!
Older swing arms and linkages have grease nipples but later ones do not. It is possible to retrofit them.
As you suggest, your only means of greasing them is to dismantle but that at least gives you the chance to check the seals etc are OK
A common mod is to drill the frame tube and fit a grease nipple but, be warned, it takes a lot of grease!
Brian
Haha yeah, like a whole tube which adds to the weight up front. If you get ''carried away'' regreasing you will see a sticky greasy mess oozing from the mudflap/fender. This is because the steering shaft is hollow and has a hole half way up it.
I suppose the solution to this would be to fit two end caps instead of just one at the top. When regreasing, remove the top end cap and fill with grease until it starts to ooze out the top. This would stop water and dust getting in but also stop it getting out. However, if the seals were not sealing, this would cause the bearing to rust due to the water that cannot escape. The downside(s) to this mod is that it will add more weight to the front and cost a bit to regrease.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
I guess disassembling the steering column isn't a horrible notion. Then again, it's currently 10 years old and has no play in it. Perhaps I'm better offer just riding it until I notice some play, then spend the $70 to replace the bearings.
The swing arm is what concerns me a bit. I've had this bike in plenty of rain, creeks, and stuck in more mud holes than I'd like to admit. I just replaced my rear wheel bearing for the first time and there was an embarrassing amount of rust, grime and corrosion in that hub. So I'm sure all the bearings and seals on the triple clamp need replacing as well. It looks like that would run between $100 and $150 if I order all 6 bearings, seals and caps OEM. Are any of these parts generic, and available more cheaply after market?
Or are these actually designed to last indefinitely, unlike wheel bearings, assuming I do grease them?
I recently acquired a service manual, so I'm reading up on all this stuff as well.
As mentioned, you will be better off regreasing all the bearings mentioned. It is an easy job to remove the triple clamps and regrease them and check the seals.
The standard OEM Koyo tapered bearings are built tough and are made to last basically forever if they are adequately greased and kept maintained with new dust/oil seals, unlike the wheel bearings that fail quite easily if abused (as with all bikes).
There is plenty of aftermarket bearings available with brands like, Pyramid Parts, All Balls, Boss Bearings etc.. To get an idea on price, here a couple of search's from eBay.com-
I would be more concerned about the swingarm linkage bearings than anything else, these tend to fail due to the seals failing or inadequate grease. The swivel bush (lower suspension bush) is also a problem area as it has to take the load. Here is a link to Brian's thread for replacing linkage bearings just in case- http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t49135773/fitting-an-allballs-linkage-bearing-kit/
Enjoy!
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +