I recently got another frame back from powder coating and have started to clean up the parts I took off it and hang them back on.
I am not sure what order other owners do it in but I like to get the electrics sorted first, then the engine to give stability, followed by the front forks and then the rear swing arm.
Took me a while but the forks, yokes and gaiters have been cleaned up and fitted together with the speedo. Must remember to torque up the steering head nut when I get the wheel in!
The front wheel took me a while to do as I had to replace a missing spoke and then 5 more seized ones that I found when truing the wheel
Although rusty, the front disc was good so I cleaned it up along with its bolts and fitted it.
Another job that took longer than expected was refurbishing the speedo drive gear. I had great difficulty in getting the central worm drive gear out to give the internals a proper clean and lube. Got there in the end and fitted a new stainless 3-tab washer. Interesting that the gear seems one way and its almost impossible to drive it backwards off the bike. I wonder how it copes when wheeling the TTR backwards
I jumped a few stages and the seat has been recovered. Looking very good and a nice colour vinyl.
Next up is to refurbish the swing arm and linkage arm. So far the bearings all look good so I am keeping my fingers crossed that no replacements are needed.
Despite multitudinous interruptions, and Totally TTRs getting very busy, I have managed to do a bit more to the current TTR resto.
I have refurbished the swing and linkage arms and fitted them. I was very lucky and only had to change the lower shock bearing - and that was more of a precaution than anything else. However I needed to fit a new chain slider to the swing arm as the old one had been chewed through and the chain would have soon been attacking the swing arm bearing cap.
I won't fit the swing arm decals until later on so I don't damage them whilst working on the bike.
I remembered to put the carb breathers down behind before fitting the swing arm this time - a lot easier than trying to do it afterwards.
I had already put the carb through the ultrasonic cleaner so it just needed a final check over and putting back together with a new gasket and O rings.
It is a lot easier to fit the carb and the breather hoses before the shock absorber as you have room to work.
I hope to fit the shock absorber, battery and air boxes tomorrow if no more interruptions
I refurbished the rear brake and was pleased to find that the caliper pins were in excellent condition so just had to pop on some rubber grease and stick it back together. The piston looked in good health so nothing to do there
Nice easy job to fit it.
I fitted the battery box next which, in retrospect should have been left until after the shock was fitted. The carb was only loosely fitted so I moved it to one side to make getting the shock reservoir through the gap a bit easier.
The shock slipped in nicely and there is absolutely no up and down play in the swing arm - phew
A good tip is to refit the top shock bolt from the left-hand side as this makes it possible to remove in the future without having to remove the battery box - as you have to do if it is fitted from the RH side
Next up is to fit the rear wheel and then move on to the handlebars, levers and switches!
I am now working on the "fiddly" bits but am enjoying it. I am under no real pressure to finish the project although I am keen to get it MOTd and taxed so that I can take it for a good run!
The only problem I can foresee is that the RH indicator might get a bit warm from the exhaust fumes.
In my effort to put the indicators as high up as possible, they are nearly touching the rear mudguard. I have to consider whether to pack the rear mudguard up a tad or oval the holes I drilled for the indicators to allow me to mount them lower.
I think the installation looks very neat. Next up will be to fit a number plate light and then wire everything up.
I have fitted a new battery so I am all ready for testing the lights, etc.
In order to check the indicators, I ended up fitting the handlebars, both switches, throttle body and cables, clutch perch and cable plus new open-ended grips.
To keep the wiring loom in place I also fitted a new front mudguard.
I then finished wiring in the indicators and they are all flashing at the right speed. Next I fitted and wired up the number plate light. I rested an old mudguard with brake/tail light on the frame and that all works so the wiring and connectors are good
The wires on the indicators and number plate light needed lengthening. I prefer to do this by soldering the joints, covering them in a heat shrink sheath and then slipping a protective tubing over the top. I have had problems with the car-type crimp joints failing and no longer use those.
The twin connectors that feed the rear lights were in poor shape so I replaced them. It was only recently that I found a suitable replacement - see pic below:
Here is the finished setup.
Rear wheel and chain next plus front brake assembly but tomorrow is another day and it's off to our local TRF "social" at the pub tonight
I got the rear wheel in but after tightening up the axle it showed the rear wheel bearings to have some play so out it came and I fitted new bearings and seals. The spacers were in good condition and not ridged (which lets water by the seals) so were able to be re-used.
I also fitted the airbox and a freshly cleaned and oiled air filter which then allowed me to fit back the CDi so, with a petrol tank on, the engine should theoretically run
However quite a few more fiddly bits to do first!
As in quite a few of the TTRs that I see the front hose was damaged where it slides up and down against the white plastic guides on the yokes so needed replacing. I wasn't looking forward to doing the job as it can be very difficult to bleed the front brake and, also, I usually end up getting covered in brake fluid
However, this time I was lucky and the brake bled fine
Next little job is to repair and fit the front brake light switch. I also have the rear brake light switch, brake lever and footpegs to fit. After that its just the rear mudguard, seat, petrol tank and side panels to sort out.
For some odd reason that I cannot fathom the previous owner had chopped the wires to the brake switch very close to the switch itself which makes the repair a little more difficult. The switch itself is still in perfect working order - they are usually the part that gets broken first. I could have fitted a new switch from stock but where's the fun in that?
I mentioned my preferred method of joining wires in the last post but you can't beat a picture show so here it is
First off was to slide some heat shrink over the lead. I then removed the rubber sealing cover and push it back down over the lead, followed by two smaller lengths of heat shrink for the individual wires. Important to get it all in the right order! See pic below.
I next "tinned" the wires to be joined with fluxed solder.
Not having three hands, I held the switch with Mole grips to keep it steady for soldering and joined the wires.
Heat shrink is great stuff - couldn't live without it!
I then slid the rubber cover back in place followed by the bigger diameter heat shrink and it made a tidy job.
Fitted the switch and job done!
I haven't had much success with electric soldering irons as they don't get hot enough to make the joint quickly and I used to end up melting the insulation on the wires. My son works with electronics professionally so I took his advice and bought a butane powered Weller Pyropen. Brilliant bit of kit that gets heat into the joints quickly and makes the whole job so much quicker and easier.
I realise that's all a bit of basic but I hope it helps someone!
RHS now complete with exhaust guard, footrest, kickstart and footbrake lever fitted. But, looking at the pic, I now realise I need to sort out some frame guards
Headlight and handguards are on. I need to sort out a decal for the headlight and tighten the handguards when I have ridden the bike and am happy with their positioning. I also remembered to fit the speedo cable this time Martyn
I need to torque up the sprocket nut and fit the sprocket cover and the LHS will also be finished.
Is it for you when its all finished or up for grabs ?
Once I finish a project, I get the the bikes MOTd and taxed. I run them for a while to check everything is OK (and that I have remembered to tighten all the nuts and bolts!) and then usually sell them to make room for the next project - and finance it
So this one could be for sale at some point in the future.....
I have now fitted a complete set of Enjoy Graphics so the TTR looks better all the while.
However, there has been a slight delay in completing the project as, having got the TTR all back together and getting it taxed and MOTd, I set about changing the oil and filter - see here. However, I was unlucky as, despite using a torque wrench, the bottom filter bolt stripped its thread
At this point I had to leave the TTR as Mrs TTR had booked us a short break in a wet & windy St Ives. We arrived back home yesterday evening feeling a bit knackered after a couple of days walking up and down the steep streets of both St Ives and Port Isaac (where Doc Martin is filmed) so didn't get back on the TTR until today.
Anyways up, the stripped thread has been repaired and the TTR all back together. I need to apply a few finishing touches and will then take some pics and post them up. I used the opportunity to do a "show and tell" as it's not an uncommon issue. See here
It got very cold in the workshop later this afternoon so I confess to packing up early so the finishing off will have to wait until tomorrow - grandsons allowing....
All done! Just need to put a few miles on it now to make sure the engine is as good as I think it is and check that I have remembered to tighten everything up properly!
It's very easy to be distracted on a rebuild and put nuts and bolts on finger tight with the intention of going back later to torque them up properly - but then forget
I was speaking to an experienced motorcycle mechanic and engineer the other day and he found the answer is always to tighten up right away - good advice that I will take on board for the future
I think I would be in danger of boring forum members Ian! Much of the work will be exactly the same as this finished project (for example see pic below of progress to date) but if I hit any snags or there is something new that I have to do then I will post it up. Most of it is just painstaking cleaning of parts etc.
The new project TTR was first registered in January 2006 which is the newest I have had to work on. I bought it back in Feb 2011 and it has been stored under cover until recently.
I have a note that I couldn't start the engine and, at the time, thought it was due to low compression. So this one might be a bit more interesting as I will enjoy some engine work for a change!
hi, im new to the whole DIY thing, about 6 months ago when i got the bike i tried painting the handle bars etc and not it seems to be more rusty,
is there a way to paint the bars? add primer and stuff? if so what are the steps?
how to paint the heating parts (silencer cover, engine cover, calipers)?
The biggest thing is preparation! You must ensure all rust is removed and the surface is smooth and clean. After wire brushing and sanding the rust or loose paint, the surface to be painted must be cleaned with wax and grease remover (or mineral turps). It is good to then use soapy water to wash any residue off and dry with a clean rag. Any bare metal should be primed with a super etch primer or a 2-pack primer (if using a two pack top coat).
I personally try to steer away from aerosol cans as the finish does not last as long as the real thing and the adhesion is hit and miss. Nothing beats a compressor, automotive paint and a good spray gun in my books.
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +