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Info on oil and filter
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Just wanted to know what's the best oil for enduro riding On my Ttr 250. I don't open the bike up at all just cruze the mountain side . I got a oil im watching on eBay it's putoline dx4 with a k&n oil filter price is £30 . I want the best oil I can get that will serve my engine well . Thanks all

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This is what oil I used in mine with no problems http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280707146831#ht_1625wt_1300



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I have always used Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 semi-synthetic motorcycle oil in my TTRs. See  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silkolene-Super-10W-40-Semi-Synthetic-Motorbike/dp/B007AEX40W

There is a view that it isn't necessary to use a motorcycle-specific engine oil but Super 4 isn't expensive in my view. As our engines only use just over 1 litre at each oil change, I think it is a reasonable insurance policy.

I am also of the view that an air-cooled engine, even in a moderate climate such as in the UK, needs oil with a bit of "body" to it rather than pure synthetic oil - nothing scientific to back that up - just a gut feeling wink

I have tried a lot of different after-market oil filters. I have seen the cheap re-usable ones (which have a simple screen) collapse as they have very little integral strength so I no longer use or sell those. The best made ones I have found are the Filtrex filters which are very close in design to the genuine Yamaha item.

Brian



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Thanks both for the advice I think I'll go with the silkolene oil . What do you think of the k&n filter it sayes it offers the best protection . And also where could I purchase a oil cooler for my bike and are they worth getting ? Thank

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So, how do you change the oil and filter?
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Okay, I can't find the owners manual anywhere and I don't know how to change the oil on a ttr.

Can anyone help please?



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RE: So, how do you change the oil?
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First warm the bike up..

Now find a suitable drain tray (old bottle cut ect.).

Loosen the sump plug with a 12mm socket making sure you turn anticlockwise.

Drain oil into tray.

When all oil is drained ,locate the oil filter cap on the right side of the engine. (clutch side). You will see three 5mm allen keys.

Undo these making sure you do not loose the two little o-rings inside the casing. (There will be one big 0-ring too)

Take the filter out & clean it.

Put it back together making sure both small o-rings & large o-ring is installed properly.

Refit sump plug.

Refill oil until it reads right on the looking glass. (under oil filter)

Pat yourself on the back wink

...........................

Jarrah.



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Jarrah describes the process very well biggrin

A couple of pages from the owners manual show you where the plugs and stuff are:

Changing oil part 1.jpg

 

Changing oil part 2.jpg



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I always replace the filter, how do you clean it. I would think it's not worth the risk of small holes in the filter but maybe you guys have SUPER filters. Work hardened particles can be very small. What filters are others using, I have been using a stainless type but they are so cheap I assumed they were disposal.


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If you replace your filter at each oil change then you may be better off using the cheaper disposable "paper" filters. These do filter better than the mesh type I believe.

Otherwise the mesh filters can be carefully washed out in some form of solvent such as petrol but I can't of course recommend such a hazardous procedure with such a dangerous substance!   wink

Brian



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rollingstone14 wrote:

Okay, I can't find the owners manuel anywhere and I don't know how to change the oil on a ttr..help?


I keep this site for TTR owners:   Instant Manual Download for the Blue TTR only.

Just click, it should start automatically



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TTRfan wrote:

If you replace your filter at each oil change then you may be better off using the cheaper disposable "paper" filters. These do filter better than the mesh type I believe.

Otherwise the mesh filters can be carefully washed out in some form of solvent such as petrol but I can't of course recommend such a hazardous procedure with such a dangerous substance!   wink

Brian


 I like to use diesel. Some use wax & grease remover or turps,petrol ect. Deisel cleans better than any though.wink

......................

Jarrah.



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Thanks!

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oil / Filter change
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When doing a filter change do yer have to bleed

the system ?... I noticed what looks like it could

be a bleed screw/bolt on the top of the filter houseing...

"Not got a manual"



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No need to bleed system. I would also like to know what that bolt is for ??

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noeyedear wrote:

No need to bleed system. I would also like to know what that bolt is for ??


 thanks....

In that case .... I would say it a access point  from when they drilled/bored the oil gallary...



-- Edited by petenz on Saturday 6th of July 2013 06:57:39 AM

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as has been said, I was told the same thing by the previous owner,
I do something similar on Impreza`s, by priming the oil system with the crank sensor removed,
whether its required or not Id say its good practise and it isnt going to harm anything.



-- Edited by JDM_stig on Saturday 6th of July 2013 08:09:51 AM



-- Edited by JDM_stig on Saturday 6th of July 2013 08:10:30 AM

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The bolt is there so that a re-built engine can be primed with oil before first starting.

Loosen the bolt, crank motor round till oil weeps out, tighten bolt then start engine.

It's shown on P2-23 of the Service Manual - Item 2 - Check bolt.

Also shown in this as Oil Pressure Inspection diagram:-

Image2.jpg

Martyn

 



-- Edited by Cubber on Saturday 6th of July 2013 08:13:39 AM

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It looks like we are both amending our information posts at the same time, JDM_stig. biggrinbiggrin

Same info too. wink

Martyn



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Cubber wrote:

The bolt is there so that a re-built engine can be primed with oil before first starting.

Loosen the bolt, crank motor round till oil weeps out, tighten bolt then start engine.

It's shown on P2-23 of the Service Manual - Item 2 - Check bolt.

Also shown in this as Oil Pressure Inspection diagram:-

Image2.jpg

Martyn

 



-- Edited by Cubber on Saturday 6th of July 2013 08:13:39 AM


 kool....

thank you Mr Cubber..smile



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Oil and filter changing
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There has been a number of questions about changing the TTR's oil and filter so I took some pics of the oil change I have just done.

I will explain how I do it but you may well decide to do things your own way.

Warm the engine first as the warm circulated oil will drain more easily and carry any debris with it.

Remove your sump guard if fitted and make sure that you wash off any dirt from the sump and crankcases.

I prepare by putting a sheet of cardboard covered with newspaper under the TTR as I always seem to spill oil disbelief

I cut a side out of an empty oil can and it is ideal for catching the old oil.

Oil_change 001.jpg

 

Next up is to remove the sump plug. They can be very hard to remove so make sure you use a well-fitting socket (preferably) or spanner. Mine needed a 12mm socket and a huge effort to undo it!

Oil_change 004.jpg

 

Leave the oil to drain. After a while I rock the TTR sideways a couple of times and more oil always drains out. If this is the first time changing the oil on your TTR, it will give you an idea as to how well the previous owner looked after it by the volume and colour/cleanliness of the oil.

Oil_change 005.jpg

 

Next up is to remove the oil filter cover to access and change the oil filter. If you loosen the bottom of the three cover screws before the top two it will allow the oil in the filter to drain into the sump - it's a "drain" screw. That way you don't get oil all over the place as the cover is taken off. 

Oil_change 006.jpg

 

Remove the cover and there is your oil filter. New O ring sets are available here

Oil_change 007.jpg

 

Have a good look at the old filter to see what's been caught in it. A small amount of shiny metallic particles is OK. On this occasion I didn't re-use the mesh filter as I didn't know its history and just replaced it with a new Filtrex one.

Oil_change 008a.jpg

 

Fit the new filter (it can only go in one way) and replace the cover having first made sure the two small O rings are in place. Then torque the 3 bolts up to 10Nm.

Oil_change 009.jpg

 

Replace the sump plug after annealing the washer if made of copper or replacing it if made of aluminium.

I use a small jug and funnel to refill the oil. I start with a litre of oil - I use Silkolene Super 4 10w-40 semi synthetic.

Oil_change 010.jpg

I turn the TTR engine over with the choke off to get the oil circulating before pulling out the choke and starting up.

If there are no obvious leaks then, after warming the engine up, I put some clean newspaper underneath to check for any slow leaks.

If all OK, then refit your sump guard if you have one and then top up the oil to the top mark on the sight glass.

Job done!

Brian

 

 



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Oil change
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Hi every one, which is the best oil for my ttr250 raid and where does the oil filter go in thanks Paul.biggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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Here is a good thread Paul wink

I use Silkolene Super 4 10w-40 semi-synthetic 4-Stroke Motorbike Oil.

Brian



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I use Motul 5100 in both my bikes TTR & XT660R...
Motul 5100 is repackaged & sold as Yamalube , Is
cheaper to buy it as motul...

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Any semi synthetic 10w 40 will do as long as its for motorbikes as car oil can make your clutch slip

I use the morris oil we sell at work for farm quads as its cheap as s**t ,used to put it in my raptor 700 and it was fine

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RE: So, how do you change the oil?
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This was very helpful on oil filter changes, thanks -- my first bike with an oil filter.

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How Every so many miles should we do this ?


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The manual specifies every 6,000 km or 6 months but I do mine more frequently. wink

It depends on your conscience and how you ride and in what conditions.

Image2.jpg

Martyn



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Reusable oil filter
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image.jpg

image.jpg

Got this reusable oil filter but noticed in other filter photos there is a rubber washer on the rear on the filter as well as the front. The one i bought as in my photos is missing the rear Rubber washer although it does have a ball bearing that pushes in and sprung loaded. One if my photos it looks like its a metal washer. Thats only the glare from the flash. Has anyone else used no rear washer type. Thnx. 



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image.jpg



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All the pics of your filter I just checked don't show a rubber seal on the engine side of the filter. Seems a bit odd but I guess the seal that is important is the one on the "flow" side which you have. So as long as the filter bolts in tight there shouldn't be a problem.

Brian



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image.jpg

Thanks Brian.  I seen this photo of yours and did a panic. The filter on the right loooks as if it has a rear rubber washer. 



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All the filters I have seen (apart from your s/s one) have rubber seals at both ends but your type doesn't - but that's not a problem as explained as long as it bolts up tight to the cover wink



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What's the best type of Oil Filter
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As the title says, what's the best filter

I have these mesh screen things in mine ATM but I don't really like/trust them

please supply some info of where you got them if your in AU

Thanks

 



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I use paper.... may as well toss the crap out with the filter...
filters are dirt cheap.... why try and reuse them...
And I'm prob doing 200/ 300km oil changes.. "if that"



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Thanks Pete

I looked up filters, ryco RMC115, there $12.50 each, what a ripoff, I can get a ryco for my Hilux truck for $5 ??

how much do you pay ?

 



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I buy them in packs of 10... about $30nz of Tradme a NZ site much like E-bay..

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Thanks, checked ebay, 10 for $32, much better

 



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$3 each is pretty cheap. I just keep reusing mine. Never much in/on it anyway (apart from that one time I drowned my bike), I find a microfibre cloth gets all the fine bits off nicely.

I bought a 10 pack when I got the bike and after a few changes thought it was a waste throwing them out. On the same one for a year or 2 now. Change oil every 800k or so.

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RE: Oil and filter changing
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Top job.

 

out of curiosity how much oil are you putting back in.

i ended up with app 1.1-1.2,

warm it up check the sight glass and it takes a while to get there but roughly shows half full.

 

This sound about right?



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Rule of thumb on oil capacity is:

1 litre for older 6-plate clutched models

1.1 litres for later model with 7-plate clutch (normally the blue model)

BUT add another 0.1 litre if you have an oil cooler fitted.

I then top up further with a few ceecees until I get the oil about three quarters of the way up the sight glass.

Invariably the TTR needs a tad more oil than the handbooks say.....

Brian



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Hi Brian.
So u run it then shut down then check the level after a few minutes.bike straight up.

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KMAN wrote:

Hi Brian.
So u run it then shut down then check the level after a few minutes.bike straight up.


 Yep biggrin



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oil filter HF141 or HF142?
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I have a TTR250 from the 2005, europe and I am curious about one thing which I see now. The HF142 is set for my motorcycle in the hiflofiltro catalog but other times I bought a HF141. With exception from a mm in size, what are the differences? materials? can the hf141 be used?

At the end, the HF142 is more expensive, 4€ more.

 



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Taken from the FAQ pages:

"The filters most commonly found for sale on the internet are HiFlo. The mesh style ones are HF142 and the paper ones are HF141"

Seems they'll both fit, just better filtration from the paper element, less oil pressure impedance from the mesh - take your pick!

Ride safe,

Simon.

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RE: Oil and filter changing
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I found a good video showing the oil and filter change procedure on a TTR250 Raid but it's exactly the same as for the Open Enduro.

However, note that the blue models take an extra 100cc of oil, compared to the 6-plate clutch metal-tanked models, as they have a deeper clutch casing to accommodate the 7-plate clutch.

Filters available here and an O ring set here.

Brian



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