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The TTR250 FAQ web pages -> TTR250 -> Repairs and maintenance -> Dismantling the rear suspension system.
Post Info TOPIC: Dismantling the rear suspension system.
eeyore


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Dismantling the rear suspension system.
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Hi there. Wonder if someone can help me. The TTR has failed its MOT test on suspension bearing play. I've got as far as stripping out the swing arm, rear shock etc. However the collar, with the large hex head holding the relay arm to the frame seems reluctant to move (there's a welded lug to hold the hex in one position). I've taken out the bolt from the right hand side - from the garage manual it looks as if the large headed collar should drift out, is this correct? If so will it need heat to be removed or is there a better way? The relay arm moves very freely.

Also, a similar problem with the  swing arm - I'm trying to remove the connecting arm and have got as far as removing the bolt from the right hand side - is this a heat and drift situation too? Many thanks.



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boredus


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I did this job earlier this year and although it turned out positive it took some work, there were 2 other results of the work.... firstly I had a blue/yellow circular bruise on the webbing between my thumb and finger from my small hammer and the second is that I now own a 2.5 lb hammer.

so what did I learn!!! If you have to hit it hard with a hammer, get a bigger one :)

The larger hammer moved the suspension bolts and the rear axle without any heat



-- Edited by boredus on Monday 9th of September 2013 09:22:28 PM

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TT-R250M


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I think you are talking about the swingarm linkage collars/races, part number 24 below?

Diagram of Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1999 TTR250LC REAR ARM Diagram

If you are you will need to heat it up and drift it out. A press (and heat) would be the easiest way though.

If you want to replace the swivel bush (part number 36 above)- First you need to remove the circlips (part number 37 above) and then the swivel bush just drifts out easily.

Here is a link that you may find useful CLICK HERE.

Any other questions- ask.

Enjoy!

Jarrah

 

 



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eeyore


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Hi, Jarrah,

Thanks for the reply. The parts I think are seized in are Nos. 31 and possibly 26. In all the threads I've seen so far no one seems to mention any difficulty removing these. The bolt (29) flew out so I guess I'll use a longer 10mm bolt and try drifting it out with a bit (or a lot!) of heat.



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TTRfan


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Bolt 31 is invariably hard to get out as it rusts onto spacer 26.

I undo 29 just a bit at a time and put a drift on that to get the bolt 31 moving. You can't get a direct line on the bolt.

 The method hasn't failed me so far!

Make sure that you aren't hitting on 29 when it's nearly undone or you may damage the threads.

A good link here - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t49135773/fitting-an-allballs-linkage-bearing-kit/

The long swing arm bolt is a bit easier to drift out as you don't have to worry about damaging any internal threads.

Never needed to use heat on the two bolts and I have done a lot of bearing replacements.

Brian



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eeyore


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Thanks, guys. Job done. Just got a longer 10mm threaded bolt, drilled the centre of the head a few mm to give the drift purchase and gave it a few whacks! Reminds of the old rhyme......



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TTRfan


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eeyore wrote:

Thanks, guys. Job done. Just got a longer 10mm threaded bolt, drilled the centre of the head a few mm to give the drift purchase and gave it a few whacks! Reminds of the old rhyme......

biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin 



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TT-R250M


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Glad you got it sorted! headbang.gif

Some can be a bIt*h to get out and require a press and heat to get out, glad yours wasn't that hard. The bolts should just slide in and out of the collars usually. If yours doesn't, the bolt may be pitted/rusted. You probably found that out by now but anyways....  blahblah.gif blahblah.gif

Enjoy!

Jarrah



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eeyore


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The further adventures of Eeyore: all rear suspension stripped out, All Balls kit ready to go, even the awkward circlips are now removed. So here's the next problem; prior to stripping, the swing arm had no discernable play or issues - should I fix what ain't broke or replace bearings whilst in there? If the answer is replace then how as I cannot find an answer to that here despite searching.

Next, I hang my head in shame as I have destroyed one of the larger roller bearings (one of the new ones from the kit) in a gorilla like attempt to knock it in as opposed to squeeze it in with a vice. Yes, I know - what a knobhead!!! Are these available seperately or do I need a new kit? Feel like ringing Simon Mayo and confessing.......................



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TT-R250M


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If it ain't broken don't fix it (unless they are rusty or out of spec). If you want to replace them, find something suitable and knock/drift the bearings out.

The bearings (from my experience) are only sold as a kit unless you buy genuine Yamaha. These aren't cheap though. SEE HERE.

Don't worry Eeyore, we have all been there at some stage.

Jarrah

 



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eeyore


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TT-R250M wrote:

If it ain't broken don't fix it (unless they are rusty or out of spec). If you want to replace them, find something suitable and knock/drift the bearings out.

The bearings (from my experience) are only sold as a kit unless you buy genuine Yamaha. These aren't cheap though. SEE HERE.

Don't worry Eeyore, we have all been there at some stage.

Jarrah

  

Cheers, mate. Those prices don't look so bad. My local bearing geezer gonna check it out for me anyway - going to NTN direct. The swing arm bearing needles look to be in good nick and are embedded in what looks like solid custard (?Yamaha grease). Would I be ok to add new grease or just leave them be and reassemble?

When I put the bearings back I'll make sure I use plenty of heat first.

 



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TTRfan


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It isn't custard Steve biggrin

Mr Yamaha used some sort of special silicone membrane that surrounds the needle rollers and is supposed to offer life-long lubrication. Trouble is it is all too easy to disturb it and once you have it doesn't seem to want to go back in no

I think the bearing you need is NTN HK2220C

Brian



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comeragh


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I have fitted all balls kits which are comprehensive however the bearings are poor quality and seem to have play after  intensive use .

You can get a better bearing from simplybearings.uk .

They also sell a needle bearing with seals on both end .

As it is a big job to tear the swing arm down and replace them for the extra money it is probably better to fit them .

They also sell kyoto and skf explorer which i have found to last well in the wheels.

The all balls wheel bearings are not great .

Its either go cheap and do it twice or fit the best and forget



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eeyore


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comeragh wrote:

I have fitted all balls kits which are comprehensive however the bearings are poor quality and seem to have play after  intensive use .

You can get a better bearing from simplybearings.uk .

They also sell a needle bearing with seals on both end .

As it is a big job to tear the swing arm down and replace them for the extra money it is probably better to fit them .

They also sell kyoto and skf explorer which i have found to last well in the wheels.

The all balls wheel bearings are not great .

Its either go cheap and do it twice or fit the best and forget

 Agreed. The bearings I have are total toss and not worth the money - it's a buy twice scenario for me. I'll try simplybearings and let you know how I get on.



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eeyore


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IKO bearings ordered from Simply Bearings..............long drum roll...................

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eeyore


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...............................longer drum roll...............................biggrin



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