Hi petenz, very interesting project. please keep us informed and give details of the installation.
My personal opinion is that the TTR250 would be a very nice bike with a working rekluse (if it fits).
The rekluse seems to work well on various bikes including ktm etc.
I also have a postie bike (ct110) which has seen a lot of dirt action.
They only have a 4 speed (fairly close ratio) gearbox, no power to speak of, and an auto clutch.
the auto clutch saves the day for it and means no stalling.
The postie bike also offers something the rekluse does not - auto engagement on gear change.
But actually this is a pain - you get clunky gear changes unless you deliberately control the
clutch disengagement with fine movement of the gear lever (as there is no clutch lever).
Also, after an "oops" on a hill the bike won't stall, which is good, BUT the auto clutch
take up is not enough to get going - you have to do the fiddly gear lever trick to get revs and slippage.
So that is why a rekluse with full normal clutch override would be good.
If I had one I would use the manual clutch on every gear change.
Below are a list of pros and cons for the rekluse.
It would be nice to get your comments on them after you have it installed and tested..
PROS
no need to cover the clutch lever in tricky slow going;
no need to "find neutral" when stopping temporarily;
no engine braking - so no need to hold clutch in on long slow descents to avoid rear wheel lockup;
inappropriately high gears can sometimes be used without too much problem.
CONS
bump starting may not be feasible [but probably needed less, so a moot point];
bike may roll back on a hill if parked and turned off in gear;
clutch may overheat if allowed to slip too much;
need to relearn best ways of lifting front wheel over logs etc at slow speeds.
no engine braking [a matter of opinion, I personally like brake levers to control braking rather than the engine].
Hi petenz, very interesting project. please keep us informed and give details of the installation.
My personal opinion is that the TTR250 would be a very nice bike with a working rekluse (if it fits). The rekluse seems to work well on various bikes including ktm etc.
I also have a postie bike (ct110) which has seen a lot of dirt action. They only have a 4 speed (fairly close ratio) gearbox, no power to speak of, and an auto clutch. the auto clutch saves the day for it and means no stalling.
The postie bike also offers something the rekluse does not - auto engagement on gear change. But actually this is a pain - you get clunky gear changes unless you deliberately control the clutch disengagement with fine movement of the gear lever (as there is no clutch lever). Also, after an "oops" on a hill the bike won't stall, which is good, BUT the auto clutch take up is not enough to get going - you have to do the fiddly gear lever trick to get revs and slippage.
So that is why a rekluse with full normal clutch override would be good. If I had one I would use the manual clutch on every gear change.
Below are a list of pros and cons for the rekluse. It would be nice to get your comments on them after you have it installed and tested..
PROS
no need to cover the clutch lever in tricky slow going; no need to "find neutral" when stopping temporarily; no engine braking - so no need to hold clutch in on long slow descents to avoid rear wheel lockup; inappropriately high gears can sometimes be used without too much problem.
CONS
bump starting may not be feasible [but probably needed less, so a moot point]; bike may roll back on a hill if parked and turned off in gear; clutch may overheat if allowed to slip too much; need to relearn best ways of lifting front wheel over logs etc at slow speeds. no engine braking [a matter of opinion, I personally like brake levers to control braking rather than the engine].
CONS...
1.. You can bump start with the EXP unit.... Need to make a slight adjustment at the clutch lever...
2... ? not tryed with the XTR....
3.... Is a possability.... Correct clutch set up should stop slipping after ingaugement... the EXP unit inserts enough pressure
to compress the heavy duty clutch springs that come with the clutch.. You can feel & see it...Hold slight pressure on the clutch lever &
rev the motor the clutch lever moves in towards the hand grip as the Rekluse unit exspands compressing the clutch
springs & tightening the clutch stack...
4.... same as normal.... the manual clutch still works....
5.. No biggy for me... always use the brakes not the motor... the motor has no idea
Watched the videos, installation seems straight forward though I don't see exactly how the engage myself. I'm thinking the centrifugal force expands the Rekluse pack?
Then, I did a little exploring in the parts fiche & it looks as though the YZ125 (Rekluse is available) & TTR250 share the same part numbers for both friction & plate discs, so it WILL fit! The TTR just used a few less discs.
The YZ125 EXP would be set up for the wrong type of power delivery for the TTR...
And another thing to take into account is the primary reduction ratio... ie- how fast the
clutch spins compaired to the crank...
-- Edited by petenz on Thursday 18th of July 2013 07:17:06 AM
-- Edited by petenz on Thursday 18th of July 2013 09:17:38 AM
Makes sense that the 125 would be set up differently; 2-stroke, etc. but it was positive confirmation that they are physically the same size. Then I re-read your original post & saw that you mentioned that the WR/XR & TTR have that same size plates. Old news.
I am guessing the Rekluse is 3 plates thick to fit in the stack with a drive plate on each side? Will you mount it in the middle of the stack or on the outside?
The YZ125 EXP would be set up for the wrong type of power delivery for the TTR...
And another thing to take into account is the primary reduction ratio... ie- how fast the
clutch spins compaired to the crank...
-- Edited by petenz on Thursday 18th of July 2013 07:17:06 AM
-- Edited by petenz on Thursday 18th of July 2013 09:17:38 AM
Makes sense that the 125 would be set up differently; 2-stroke, etc. but it was positive confirmation that they are physically the same size. Then I re-read your original post & saw that you mentioned that the WR/XR & TTR have that same size plates. Old news.
I am guessing the Rekluse is 3 plates thick to fit in the stack with a drive plate on each side? Will you mount it in the middle of the stack or on the outside?
heres the thing.... the fitment link Brian posted & the fitment sheet that came with the clutch are diffrent as to where the rekluse
unit sits in the clutch pack.... my sheet shows it 1 steel drive plate & 1 fricton plate in..... Where the fitment link brian posted shows
the total oppisite... the WR450 unit i put in my XT660R ... sheet shows the same as this one that came with the clutch...
As a fairly novice rider, I feel uncomfortable going down steep inclines with the Rekluse clutch. I just don't feel like I have as much control without the help of engine braking.
As a fairly novice rider, I feel uncomfortable going down steep inclines with the Rekluse clutch. I just don't feel like I have as much control without the help of engine braking.
I quess it's what your are use to.... I have always just used the brakes...for me its a carry over from rideing trials..
Anyway i;m going to pull the TTR apart 2day & see if it dose fit....
Looking forward to your ride report, especially regarding the spring set-up.
An academic question since you already have a Rekluse in your other bike, do the remaining friction plates wear out quicker since there are fewer of them left?
And does the Rekluse have friction material on it? Sort of looks like it does in the pics.
Thanks for trying this & for taking the time to keep us in the loop.
the only thing I have read.. Is the Rekluse can speed up clutch basket ware... the fingers notching faster... If that dose happen I would
put a Hinton WR250F billit basket on to the TTR gear.. But Its going to take while for the basket to ware..
I will say I have not seen notched baskets on lower powered trail type motors... It seems to happen more on higher HP
out put motors...
yes there is a thin layer of fricton material on the unit... I looked at that when I done the XT660R with the WR450 unit..
figgered if it was to ware of .. you could put the Rekluse unit between 2 fricton plates...
Any way only time will tell...
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 21st of July 2013 10:14:17 AM
Looking forward to your ride report, especially regarding the spring set-up.
An academic question since you already have a Rekluse in your other bike, do the remaining friction plates wear out quicker since there are fewer of them left?
And does the Rekluse have friction material on it? Sort of looks like it does in the pics.
Thanks for trying this & for taking the time to keep us in the loop.
Got it going & had a play to set the clutch... works greats..
Can hold the front brake on while idleing in 1st.... wined the throttle
and it will spin the rear wheel on dry cement & push the locked up front
along the ground.... I would say theres no clutch slip after it ingauges..
So All done & dusted.... now whats next?..
Excellent news and thanks for the feedback with pics - a great help to budding Rekluse buyers - which might include me
What next?
I don't think we have a detailed report with good step by step pics of fitting WR or YZ forks............. If we have, someone please correct me and bump the thread
Got it going & had a play to set the clutch... works greats..
Can hold the front brake on while idleing in 1st.... wined the throttle
and it will spin the rear wheel on dry cement & push the locked up front
along the ground.... I would say theres no clutch slip after it ingauges..
So All done & dusted.... now whats next?..
Sounds like you hit the set-up first try. I had figured the Rekluse was a more substantial unit & wouldn't have thought to explore it as you did. Definitely moving this WAY up the list for my TTR.
You had mentioned USD forks which Brian & I have talked about somewhat though neither of us has taken the plunge. If you do the conversion please keep us informed.
So to further fan the flames I will share a VERY back burner idea, maybe you will be interested. I have been contemplating installing a WR/YZ swingarm & shock (though my stock shock is working fine for now) & have collected a few part to that end. I was initially interested when I was looking for tuning info/parts for the TTR & the would come across heaps of WR/YZ stuff. That combined with the replacement cost of a stock TTR shock & the glut of cheap used WR/YZ parts available on ebay has me in the planning stages.
I have 2 YZ frames on hand (a 426 & a 125) to use to make a jig to keeping the pick-up point geometry the same. I am thinking I might have to change calipers (not sure), make some sort of adapters for the axle (same diameter, hope to keep the TTR wheel) & re-weld mounts for the suspension link on the TTR frame.
This will also necessitate moving the battery but I will get a lightweight when this one gives it up & find a new spot for it.
The thought a WR/YZ-suspended, TTR325 with a Rekluse sounds like a fantastic, low maintenance bike to me.
Thanks for the update. Would shimming the springs work if you can't find replacements?
Had a ride today with a guy who has a brand new Beta 450 with a Rekluse. He's only had it since the beginning of the week but likes the Rekluse (& the bike) pretty well so far.
It now works... just need the heavyer EBC clutch springs... Done a organised trail ride 2day... (more of a Enduro) 40km track all under trees on hills... I pounded that clutch and it loved it.... One thing I did notice is you need to be heavy handed on the throttle... to get the revs up as fast as possable so it bits hard.. the track was so tight and hilly I never really got any higher than 2nd gear .. but do still have the 13/44 gearing on.. needs to be lowered...
The guy I was rideing with had a gopro... So hopefully I can get a vid posted...
The thing with the Rekluse clutch.. If yer just ride easy trails/ gravel roads
etc there is not a lot of benifit from fitting the Rekluse...
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 11th of August 2013 09:19:51 AM
Wondering if you've gotten some more seat time with the Rekluse & have any more observations?
I did a ride with a few Rekluse-equipped bikes this past weekend. Same story, they were apprehensive to get them, now they wouldn't be with out.
One KTM in particular was trying to bump-start his bike but was unable to, but I am thinking that may be a different model than what you have installed. Does the bump-start actually work on the TTR (no kicker on the TTR here in the US)?
I have had the Rekluse in just over a year now...
Not had to open the motor since I instaled it...
The only mod I have made to the system since is a
clutch arm stop to take the strain of the clutch
cable & give finer adjustment of the clutch as well
as remove the incossitanty of useing the cable to
hold the clutch stack slightly open..
Done a 40km forest single track ride on the weekend..
Now can't imagine riding terrain like that with out
the Rekluse now.. Wet sticky ground & some snow higher up..
Being able to stop on a hill/climb & start with out the bike
wheel spinning/ trying to wheel stand or bogging the motor
just 1st gear bring the revs on & all yer get is traction...
Hi all. Thanks to Pete's experimentation I've done the same mod to mine. I used the EBC springs too. Been doing a mix of rpad and trail riding for just over a week. I'm thinking of switching to the lighter tuning springs for earlier engagement. I'll also make a clutch arm stop adjuster to take the tension off the cable. So far I love the set up and can see the benefits over the cons. I can't clutch up a wheelie any more though, and I've given it a lot of goes...
I plan to order a Rekluse and I just wanted to confirm that those running the Rekluse clutch haven't encountered any issues? I can't find the "RMS-6071 EXP clutch 2.0" on their Website so I plan to just call them and order this part along with the EBC CSK014 HD Springs. My bike is used only for tight technical high elevation single track in Idaho Utah and Wyoming. I'm running 12/52 Gearing.
I also want to install a LHRB so if anyone has a specific brand that seems to fit and work well I would like to know any details on the installation also.
Rekluse make a left hand rear brake master cylinder...
once you have got used to left hand brakeing you will
never want a foot brake again....gives control your foot
can't come close to...
I have seen home made units that use a cable to the rear brake
foot lever... then you still have foot brake aswell as left hand..
So with my 2006 all I need to order is the Rekluse "RMS-6071 EXP 2.0 Clutch" use the lightest Springs that cam with the kit and also install "EBC CSK104 HD Springs" and that takes care of the Clutch correct?
Which Rekluse LHRB do I need to order since they don't list one for the TTR?
any of there master cylinders that have to correct size banjo fittings should work..
hydruilic clutch master cylinder might work and be cheap from a motorbike wreckers..
When you adjust the clutch do it on a hot motor/hot oil...cold motor/oil gives to much drag
so you get a false setting and when the oil heats up the unit slips more than it should..