A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Hi Vic

That's a fairly open question. Do you foresee any problems?

Have you got the full workshop manual? The diagrams etc in it are superb and it is the best starting point.

Brian

Hi all,

My 93 OE has had several regulator/rectifier failures over time.  I have a kickstart as well so I continued using the bike while waiting for parts.  Each time I've ignored this, the stator has failed and needed replacing or rewinding.

When I got the bike the wiring loom had been thoroughly butchered then taped up and there was evidence of some wires being burnt.  I have been running a UPS battery (12V 7AH) so things haven't been standard.

I recently replaced the entire wiring loom and I have now ordered a proper battery and original connecting cables as well as a 2nd hand reg/rec and my stator is off for rewinding.

Has anyone with the older TTRs (93/94) had similar problems?  Searching the web I found this page http://www19.atwiki.jp/tt-r/pages/18.html which suggests that the original reg/rec (part no. 3TJ-81960-01-00) had issues and an improved one (part no. 3TJ-81960-02-00) was made.  Looking at partzilla.com this has been standard on US TTRs (1999 - 2006).

I am running and have been running the same regulator/rectifier on both the TTR's I have owned. It came from my 1994 OE that had burnt wiring and it is still running strong.

I suggest you see THIS THREAD.

Jarrah

Your problem does seem unfortunate and hard to find. I would suggest that either your battery is spiking the system from not being the specified voltage, the stator is spiking it from not being wound properly or there is a power wire that is spiking it somewhere.

I highly doubt that the 93-99 regulator is causing this or we would have HEAPS more problems on here regarding this.

Thanks for reminding me about the charging voltage- it does charge at 13.5-V. I was thinking that it should charge higher than 12V and your post reminded me of the spec so cheers.

I would like to think that buying the 99-13 stator would solve your problem but am very sceptical about that. I hope you find your problem soon.

Jarrah

Hi Paul

Sorry to hear of the problems.

There isn't an ignition warning light on the TTR but there is a great after-market fitting.

I bought one of Andrew Ferguson's clever little LED ignition light - see here .

Andrew will custom build a unit with your own preferred settings - I chose the following:

>15.2v  red static (over-voltage)

>13.0v  green static (charging)

>12.5v  amber slow flashing (normal battery, but not charging)

<12.5v  red 4 blips & repeat  (recommended for this output to make it absolutely distinct from the one above) 

I was prompted to fit it by the need to make up a mount for the switch for my fabulous Symtec heated grips (winter is coming!) so combined the jobs.

The pic below shows the light with the engine running - green is good and means the battery is charging. The heated grips switch is on the right of the panel.

The pic below shows the red light flashing to show the voltage of the battery with the ignition switched on but the engine not started.

The light comes with a decent length of lead and it was simple job to stick the earth wire in behind the coil earth bolt and, after stripping about half an inch of wire, the positive was hooked over the brown terminal in the ignition connector block and the block connected up again.

Brian

Some advice needed please to support my basic electronics...

While checking connections trying to solve the above issue I came across this component which has a diode symbol on it...

It plugs in here...

*** photo not loading

I checked this with a multimeter and a basic bulb test. No current passing or bulb lighting either way round.

So, am I checking this correctly?

Is it part of the charging system?

Thanks

ttboof wrote:

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That would be the diode for the starter cuircuit  .

Your looking for the rectifier it's bigger with ribbed heatsink on it .towards the front of the frame 

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 Thanks. Yes I knew about the rectifier location. But it's good to know what the diode is for... Even if it might not be working as I would expect a diode to?

Paul C wrote:

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 Thanks. Yes I knew about the rectifier location. But it's good to know what the diode is for... Even if it might not be working as I would expect a diode to?

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 One side of the diode will be roughly 20~30-V AC (alternating current), the other side of it will be 12~15-V DC (direct current). You would need to test these with the ignition switch and On/Off in the On position. However, if your starter is working correctly, this will not need testing.

The blue wire with a white stripe is AC (alternating current) and the red with a black stripe is DC (direct current).

This is the starter diode as mentioned and has nothing to do with the charging circuit.

Jarrah

Every little helps.

Well, here's an interesting development...

Along with a few other bits n bobs I got one of Brian's light switches a few weeks ago. While I was digging around the bike electrics I fitted it. Very nice, thank you.

Well, testing the bike earlier I notice that with the light ON there is a very slow drop in voltage as the bike runs, whether ticking over or at a "running" rpm. Light OFF the volts rise to around 14.5+ volts which is higher than the battery charge.

My simple logic tells me that the charging system must be working as indicated by the OFF scenario. But there is some extra drain when the lights are on which the system can't manage? The switch just controls the headlamp, the rear stays on so this "problem" must be "north" of the area?

I guess I could just make sure I don't go out to play at night!

It does not sound to me like you have a problem. Is your battery going flat? lights dim? If not, all sounds good to me.

Have you checked the main earth located at the regulator/resistor? the bolt may need unbolting, cleaning (or replacing). It would also pay to check that your battery terminals are tight and have no corrosion and that no wires are exposed, cut, burnt etc.

The headlight bulb is not the problem at least as the 60/55W bulb is standard for the blue TTR's. I am guessing you have the Open Enduro model from the headlight spec of 33/36.5W?

I think maybe you are just worrying too much as 12.8-V is more than enough to charge the battery.

Happy holiday season!

Jarrah

ok, did all the diagnositcs in the book. thought it was the coil, replaced, not it. so i trailered bike to shop. he determined it was the stator.  $500 to replace.  350parts 150 labor.  I found an aftermarket for 80 and dove in.  Removed my skid plate, chain cover, and left side engine.  unplug stator and took inside.  Loosing the allen that holds the stator wire down snapped off at the head.  The other two that held the other wire were in good, doused with pb breaker. and the came out.  tried a easy out, not easy and not out.  Drilled the hole out, and tried to tap it with a 5m tap didnt hold. so head tommorow to a place that will tap it.  Are there any pics on how to run the cables under or next to the stator? hope this fixes my issues.   need it to go hunting !!

Interesting to see how a stator is made. Anyone on here put that video up and can tell us more?

Brian

Hi All

I recently replaced the stator on my 2005 model. Thanks to the great info here it was no great drama. Thought I'd  share what happened.

Over the past year the I had problems with the idle. It would be OK for a few rides, then would be too slow and stall easily so I'd adjust it quicker, be OK for a few rides, then speed up, would slow it down etc. The bike was also getting harder and harder to start. Thought it was a carby problem, cleaned it several times, no change. Eventually it wouldn't start. No spark (I could hang onto the business end of the plug while cranking and get nothing, swapped the coil off a mates bike, still nothing). So after studying the wonderful info on this site, I replaced the stator (also replaced  the coil, Yamaha Australia reckoned it was worth doing both, a bad coil can stuff a new stator).

The result, no more idle problems (could the idle be affected by a poor spark?) and the bike starts straight up ( I feel I only need to hover my thumb over the magic button and it starts).  Happy Days!

The info that is shared on this site is awesome. I had bike mechanics wanting to spend hours sussing out the wiring loom etc, but  armed with the knowledge from this site, I was confident it was the stator and saved many dollars by not having a mechanic rubbing his chin pondering the problem (I had already been through the wiring as suggested here).

-- Edited by Pendo on Wednesday 24th of June 2015 01:10:50 AM

Just to remind owners who are suffering intermittent flat battery issues that Andrew Ferguson is still selling his Monsoon Battery monitors. An excellent bit of kit that can show you what's happening on your charging system as you are riding.

Brian

Hi,

Are the stators and regulator/rectifiers the same between these models. Both my units are faulty. (Too much resistance across the stator and battery stops losing charge when regulator disconnected.) If so I'll buy them from a company in the USA called Caltric who are selling stators and regulators that 'Fits YAMAHA TTR250 TT-R250 1999-2006'.

'Totally TTRs' website meantions that a stator they are selling 'fits all models' but this site under the FAQ Y2K page talks about 'the older engine from the "white" TTR model' - so I'm worried that if engines are different the stators and regulators may be different too.

Can anyone help?

If I buy the parts I'll report back on part quality, import taxes etc to update the forum so hopefully other members can benefit from my experience.

Cheers

Tony