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Post Info TOPIC: Need advice with jetting!


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Need advice with jetting!
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Hello all. I am trying to figure out what jets to get for my bike. The only mod done to the bike is an UNI air filter. I need a different pilot jet because it starves for fuel at idle to 1/8 throttle, however after 1/8 throttel the bike runs just fine. I am trying to find jets according to THIS    topic. I am using THIS website to order parts. The part (pilot jet 43F-14342-26 (size 52)) does not exist on this website, however some main jets do. I am at 1,800 ft above sea level. What main jet should i be running at this sea level with the UNI filter? For main jets, partzilla has:

  • 4GY-14329-69   Size 137 (stock?)
  • 288-14343-70   Size 140
  • 288-14343-73   Size 146
  • 288-14329-74   Size 148
  • 288-14329-76    Size 152
  • 288-14329-77    Size 154

 

I am going to run a mikuni 42.5 or 52.5 pilot jet (not sure which one to get :) ) But I need help deciding which main jets to get. Thanks.

 



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As mentioned in your other thread, if using Mikuni jets, in theory they are 10 sizes larger than Teikei.

Note: This has not been confirmed yet so do not take this size conversion for gospel. If you find a better size conversion, please let us know.

Pilot Jet

This would effectively call for a Mikuni #42.5 if you want the same size as a Teikei #52.5 pilot jet.

Note: Make sure your pilot curcuit is not blocked first.

Main Jet

If using Mikuni main jet #130 it would be the same as a Teikei #140 main jet.

Note: Before using a larger main jet- drop your jet needle clip position to the lowest setting (sharp end) to see if it splutters at half to full throttle. If it doesn't splutter at high revs or backfire/pop in the carb on deceleration you will benifiet from a larger main jet.

 



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Just to add a little more insight into re-jetting.

I seem to find that people in countries that use an Ethanol blend of fuel, do not need to enlarge the main jets as much as countries that do not use Ethanol blend. It seems the Ethanol blend is harmful to performance and a decrease in jetting sizes is the end result. Also, different countries have different climates, so this will help to confuse things.

If the jetting is not right to begin with then re-jetting can be hard to know what setting is best for your particular climate, elevation, fuel quality and modifications made to your bike. In this situation you would be ''stabbing in the dark'' so to speak. It would be best to start with the standard jets sizes that YAMAHA brought the bike out with. This may not be the best for your particular climate etc., but should at least run nonetheless.

If you find that the standard YAMAHA sizes do not work, I would suggest that either the pilot or main circuit is blocked, diaphragm pump is faulty, or the float level is not correct. Although, this may not be the case in some circumstances.

If all of the above has been checked and it still has problems, see below.

Symptoms from idle to 1/3 throttle- Pilot Jet

First make sure that the fuel metering screw O-ring is not perished or damaged and the pilot circuit is not blocked.

Rich

Does it start without choke when cold?- if so a smaller pilot jet may be needed.

Turn your fuel metering screw all the way in- does it still idle?- if so a smaller pilot jet may be needed.

Does it run better with the fuel metering screw turned to 1.5 - 1 turns out?- if so a smaller pilot jet may be needed.

Does it splutter just off idle up until 1/3 throttle?- if so a smaller pilot jet may be needed.

Is all of the above symptoms accompanied by popping in the carb when the throttle is let off from 1/3 throttle to idle?- if so a smaller pilot jet may be needed.

Lean

Does it run better with the fuel metering screw at 3 - 3 1/2 turns out?

Is it hard to start without choke or does not idle without choke- if so a larger pilot jet may be needed.

Does it backfire in the carb when the throttle is applied from idle to 1/3 throttle- if so a larger pilot jet may be needed.

Does it get red at the header pipe when idling or 1/3 throttle- if so a larger pilot jet may be needed.

 

Symptoms from 3/4 throttle through to full throttle- Main Jet

Please note that some of the following symptoms can be from the wrong pilot jet installed, so if you have any trouble at idle to 1/3 throttle, see Symptoms from idle to 1/3 throttle- Pilot Jet. Also, not all sypmtoms will be present at once, so unless way out of specification,  you will not have all sypmtoms described in the topics below.

Lean symptoms

Choke helps at wide open throttle.

Header pipe gets red at the header pipe (even at night).

Backfires/pops in carb when throttle is applied quickly or from low revs to high.

Feels like it's running out of fuel (not to be confused with splutter-rich symptom).

Runs good but lacks power-slightly lean

A hot metallic smell coming from exhaust (extremely hard to tell).

Spark plug is clean but has a whitish deposit- extremely lean

Spark plug is very clean- lean

 

Rich symptoms

Starts up without choke (it should take quite a few turns to start when cold without choke usually).

Splutters until warm & then has flat spots.

Splutters at 3/4, unless the throttle is slowly rolled on.

Bike stalls easy.

Flat spots in carb.

Engine does not idle down fast enough when at roughly 4000 RPM & the throttle is let off.

Smells like un-burnt fuel.

Black smoke that has an unburnt fuel smell.

Hits the rev limiter too easily.

Sounds a bit like a two-stroke.

Carb pops when throttle is let off.

Black, soft,sooty deposit on plug.

 

Perfect

Bike runs great through all gears & idles smoothly.

Spark plug is a chocolate brown color.

 



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The jets in the bike are stock to my knowledge, so it only makes sense that it's too lean with the air filter on it. I know you said 10 sizes bigger in theory, but in another post, somebody used a 52.5 mikuni pilot and it worked for them, so that is why i'm still unsure. Also, I can't get the screw out that holds the lever in place which pushes the diaphragm. Is it possible to adjust the needle without taking it off?



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Yeah I saw that someone is using a Mikuni #52.5 but they have done a lot more than just an air filter change. I would like to know what the best size conversion is myself, so if you find a better size conversion, let me know.

Try using a screwdriver bit that fits into a socket to loosen the screw. If you can't get it off, you can just take the slide out without removing the diaphragm. Just be careful not to force the slider too far.



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I tried using vice grips on the screw, as it usually works for me, but it's in there good. I will just have to be careful as you said.



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If the screw is not stripped, you can use an impact driver to remove it. If you don't have one, I'm sure that your local dealer does, so it may be the best method of removal. It would not cost much to have it removed for you.

If you can explain your problem better, maybe I will have better advice on the problem.



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the screw is the least of my worries right now. As of now, I just want to get my idle - 1/8 throttle cleared up. I'm not too concerned about after 1/8 throttle because it runs good, but i'm just curious as to what it will do to the performance. I think I will order a 42.5 mikuni pilot and hopefully that will clear my problem.



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Are there any other symptoms other than ''a bog''?

What sort of ''bog'' is it- Does it splutter, pop, backfire etc.?

Does it idle right?

It sounds lean from how you described your problem, but jumping to conclusions will not help.

......................................................

I know you said that you checked your accelerator pump is squirting properly when throttle is applied (and carb is full), but if unsure it doesn't hurt to check again.

If your float level is not right, it will cause the same problem as described also, so this should be checked also.

Try taking off your airbox side cover to see if it gets better or worst. This may help to diagnose the problem.



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TT-R250M wrote:

Are there any other symptoms other than ''a bog''?

What sort of ''bog'' is it- Does it splutter, pop, backfire etc.?

Does it idle right?

It sounds lean from how you described your problem, but jumping to conclusions will not help.

......................................................

I know you said that you checked your accelerator pump is squirting properly, but if unsure it doesn't hurt to check again.

If your float level is not right, it will cause the same problem as described also, so this should be checked also.

Try taking off your airbox side cover to see if it gets better or worst. This may help to diagnose the problem.


With the fuel screw 1 1/2 turns out it:
  • Idles rough as if it is "skipping beats" although it's turned up high.
  • Will shoot the rpm's up when choke is applied even when warm
  • Will stall if quick throttel is given from idle-1/8 throttle.
With the fuel screw turned out past 1 1/2 it:
  • Smothes out idle A LITTLE
  • Does not stall when quick throttle is given from idle-1/8 throttle
  • sputters AFTER the throttel is let off and goes back down to idle.


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First thing to check in this situation is that your pilot curcuit or pilot air curcuit is not blocked.

There is little holes (air jets) at the airbox side of carb that runs through the inside of carb. The upper hole is for the pilot curcuit and goes through the side cover. The main jet air intake goes through the carb & to the main jet. These must be clean!

Also, make sure that O-ring on your fuel metering screw is not perished.



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I could try cleaning it again (I used a can of carb cleaner spray...) but i was convinced it worked because the bike ran as soon as i cleaned it with the spray (the bike wouldn't run without choke when i bought it). Thanks for the pictures, I will try to get to my bike as soon as i can. Unfortunatly, I don't have the funds right now because we just had to spend $1,100 USD to put a new turbo and fuel pump in our Saab...



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So I ordered a Mikuni n102/221 135 small round main jet as well as a vm28/486 42.5 pilot jet. They have not come in yet, however I just lowered the clip on my needle one groove. My bike not only had more power on top, but it smoothed out my idle a little bit as well. It still starves for fuel at idle, but it ran better on bottom. I find this weird since the needle should have no effect on idle...?



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Good news then thumbsup.gif

If lowering the needle position made it run better than you will benefiet from a larger main jet.

I found it weird that the main jet has such an effect to the idle cuircuit aswell. The reason for this is that the main jet opens early in the rev range (about 1/3 throttle) so it does have a noticable effect ont the idle curcuit. It also effects the choke curcuit, for example- when the main jet is too large no choke is needed to start when cold. Not a direct impact but you get the point (I think?).

Hope the jets you bought suit your set-up better, any questions or problems, let me know.

Jarrah



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Fitted a mikuni n102/221 small roud #135 into the carb. Surprisingly it helped clear up my idle to 1/8 throttle as well.



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