A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Hi Brian

Not at the moment.. it cost £200+ a few weeks back to get my shock sorted to a fully working condition so I'd like to keep it that way for a bit! 

Scott

scotty72 wrote:

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it cost £200+ a few weeks back to get my shock sorted to a fully working condition so I'd like to keep it that way for a bit! 

Scott

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Crikey - was that through Justin Gibbs?

Will get the O rings posted tomorrow.

Brian

Thanks a lot Brian 

 

It was. I think he was a bit snowed under and it turned out that the shaft was badly corroded so had to be sent off to the one place in the country which can rebuild/surface it which added around 70 ish pounds and 6 plus weeks to the process as well. Shock does seem good, but as Justin said, it is now practically 80% new!

-- Edited by scotty72 on Tuesday 17th of September 2013 10:38:33 AM

Thanks a lot Jarrah 

Is this what you are looking for Sammy?

See http://www.totallyttrs.com/NOS/index#carb_stub

Paypal invoice on its way.

Good to hear you found a cylinder head 

Brian

Right checked mine and its fubor, been right bodged, not even right manifold, might be not this friday but one after when i can order one.

Stacks of good carburettor threads on here - mainly by Jarrah.

For starts, TRY THIS one.

If that doesn't help you then use the Search facility at the top and search for "carb" or "fuel" or something similar.

Martyn

 

Alternatively!!

A little drop of petrol directly in the cylinder bore, plug back in. A mixtutre of petrol and brake and clutch cleaner sprayed into the air intake whilst turning it over. Couple of pops,bangs and burps and hey presto thumper lives.
Splash of redex into the tank with fresh go go juice and off for a little run around the block.
Net result? Back in love with the tough little bugger.

Tell you what I did when i got home though! Turned the petrol tap off and ran it dry of petrol in the float. Lesson learned.

chrisstdt wrote:

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Having stripped and rebuilt the shock linkage done all wheel bearings adjusted my valves and stripped and cleaned carb bikes all back together and going great but my carb now has a leak !

I've taken it back off and found its almost squirting from the bottom from the accelerator pump housing (ive replaced the o rings with the closest fitting ones i can find and it still leaks when pushing the accelerator pump

I didn't put the bowl back on just put fuel in and pumped it and when i took it apart again the top of the diaphragm is wet (don't think there should be fuel on that side ?

So am i likely to need a diaphragm as well as the two o rings ?

Thanks

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Hi Chris

That's a pain  

Because of leak issues in the past, I always "face" the bottom cover on some wet & dry (placed on a dead flat surface) to make sure it has the best chance of sealing. There always seems to be a bit of corrosion or dried on crud that needs removing on the small cover plate.

For the diaphragm to work properly it needs to seal and I don't think there should be fuel on its "top" side. Is there possibly a small hole in the diaphragm?

Brian

chrisstdt wrote:

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Ok brian il give that a go now and double check the top side is getting wet , but could you pm me a price for the two o rings ,diaphram and float bowl gasket ? thanks

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 Email on its way Chris 

I had lost my refurbishment mojo so haven't done any work on my latest project bike for a long time. There was quite a layer of dust on the frame 

Anyways up, I forced myself out into the workshop yesterday and rebuilt and fitted the carb. The carb lined up nicely with the notch in the inlet stub but when I stood back I noticed that the carb was at a noticeable angle - see pic above. Compare the line of the top of the float bowl to the starter motor (which I assume to be horizontal).

Is there something peculiar about my TTR or has anyone else noticed the "lean" on their carb?

Brian

PS An obvious tip that makes life soooo much easier is to fit the carb, solenoid and associated wiring (such as starter/battery cables and brake light switch) before installing the shock absorber. Install the battery box after that 

chrisstdt wrote:

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A big thank you to brian and the royal mail ,brian posted the parts i need to stop my carb leaking around 4.30 last night in devon and they arrived in the scottish borders at 11 this morning

Im pleased to say my carb is now back on and leak free and the accelerator jet now works just been round the yard at work on it (i love working saturdays !) and my ttr goes like the wind

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Hi people 

just want a quick heads up before I remove the carb.I was out greenlaneing on the old trusty TTR 250 on Sunday on the way home bike started playing up,it would start and tick over but soon as you wound throttle up to increase revs it would cut out.Plenty off fuel (half tank) no different if you removed air filter.Several miles from home managed to get home by pulling choke out mm with bike running at high revs.Must admit bike is caked in mud good day up to that point though.

Cubber is right I think - muck or water in the carb. First try draining the float bowl and see what comes out and check for any "blobs" of water or just plain muck....

Kenny R wrote:

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Has the inlet rubber detached from the manifold and rotated a wee bit??

 

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 Nope - first thing I checked. The inlet stub is solid 

TT-R250M wrote:

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It looks to me like the carburettor needs loosening and moving around until it is straight(ish).

Are you sure that the carb inlet stub is bolted the right way around on the motor?

Jarrah

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The stub can only go on one way and the carb is gripped by the slot at the top as indicated by the blue arrow on the pic below. 

I will have another look tomorrow but I am sure I installed the carb correctly.

http://www.ttr250.com/Removing_carb/TTR_carb_removal.htm

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t54314386/carb/

  Here are just a couple links to help you start. Do a search for Carburetor, carb, etc... and there are lots of topics that may be useful.

greg

I would like to say that I found a manufacturing defect in the manifold but, if truth be told, it was user error 

Slackened off the clamp and twisted the carb back and forth and it found its sweet spot - in a much more upright position

Phew..... 

TTRfan wrote:

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Just had this email from John. I absolutely accept that the carb info on the FAQ and elsewhere is confused and contradictory.

John gives a simple solution to the "bogging" on the Australian TTRs - see below. Feedback would be appreciated. I know of a few other blue TTR owners who feel that their bike is over-jetted with the 147 main jet.

Brian

 

I noticed in your site and other forums, a mass of info about ttr250 carby problems (some of it contradictory).  I was looking because my

2011 aust model had a "flat spot" / "stumble" / "hesitation" (the English language doesn't seem to have the right word). So i waited until it was definitely run-in (2000km), documented the problem for myself (1/3 throttle eg 60-65kph 4th gear very slight acceleration or 80-85kph ditto in 5th gear with 13T/44T with absolutely everything standard, exhaust pipe completely untouched, despite the bike shop telling me to hacksaw off the end of the header which has a small bulge/restrictor/whatever, nothing done to the airbox, standard australian #50 and #147 jets and mid needle position, problem not particularly dependent on atmospheric temp/pressure, normal fuel).

then I made just one change - I moved the needle clip up 1 (ie dropped needle to a  LEANer position) from 3rd clip to 4th clip counting from bottom).

This single change pretty much completely fixed the problem for me, here in Canberra at an altitude of 600 metres above sea level.

 

John

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Hi John and TTRFAN Brian,

I have the exact same issue with the my 2011 TTR just bogging/missing/spouting at certain throttle and and rev count etc.

I cleaned the carb a million times, had it at a Bikeshop(Honda WestCoast motorcycle) which said they did a full clean of the CARB(after I already did it twice) but also remove the snorkel from the Air Box and charged 200 buks and said its just a performance thing and can't fix it. They ensisted it is 90% better, which it was not.(rant over :)) Back then when I open the airbox and close it , on the first run it will run great(which explains the bikeshop thinking it was resolved) but then second and more runs it will just be back to square one. I thought it might be the airflow and finally decided to do the mods, on exhaust(removing "restrcitor" and re-installing the snorkel but shortening it as described on thumpertalk. 

This gave me some more kick I would say but did not solve the issue. 

 

Jets are: 147 and 50

I then read about the needle clip, can you please let me know which position will you suggest I move it to in Perth please? I am in Perth 31.5 above sea level.

(Side note: I found that when the bike is really warm on a long ride home from work on warm day it has NO power) Which I hope will also be solved when I get the bogging or sputting or whatever the condition is called is gone.

 

I have to say I use it mostly to commute to work so Road use everyday. 

 

FYI I get around 167km and on tank and did not push to see how much I actually get to reserve I just fill it every two days.

 

Cheers guys, this site is awesome and Brian you have been my go to handbook when I look for instructions. I read your post and go do it and it brings me closer to fixing it. I would say you/re my mentor without even knowing it.

 

Cheers

Jacko

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Jacko and good to see your first post to the forum - also for your kind words 

A simple test to see if your carb is running rich or lean is to warm it up by riding it with the airbox cover on and then try riding it with the cover removed. If the carb is running rich then you should "feel" an immediate improvement in which case lower the needle (move the clip up one notch) to lean out the mixture and try again 

Brian

WackoJacko wrote:

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TTRfan wrote:

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Hi Jacko and good to see your first post to the forum - also for your kind words 

A simple test to see if your carb is running rich or lean is to warm it up by riding it with the airbox cover on and then try riding it with the cover removed. If the carb is running rich then you should "feel" an immediate improvement in which case lower the needle (move the clip up one notch) to lean out the mixture and try again 

Brian

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Thanks mate,

 

I will do the test asap and do the change and get back to you. 

 

TTRBOOF, thanks too, I will first do Brians checks and changes and then if still the issue I will go a size up on the pilot jet. 

 

Thanks again..till later...

 

 

 

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 Hey Brian,

 

I remembered that the test you talking about is what I did inadvertently after I had it at the shop and found that it ran perfectly with the air box cover off.  Good thing, coz I already removed the carby last night to check the needle position. So this morning after my reply I went out and just to check the needle position. I already have it on the 4th setting. there is a 5th one though. I am going to test it on the 5th(last) most highest setting.(this means if the needle is pointing down I move the clip up and the needle goes deeper or drop a setting.) If not I will put it at 4 again and get a another pilot jet one size up from my current.

Cheers

Jacko

-- Edited by WackoJacko on Sunday 24th of March 2019 06:16:26 AM

Is it necessary to remove carb (and half of the rear end of the bike) to do any work on the carb? I want to change the main jet only...on my DR650 it was possible to rotate the carb enough in the manifold and airbox boot to get the float bowl off and change main jet.