A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Members Login
Post Info TOPIC: Carb issues


Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 53
Date:
RE: Leak from carb
Permalink  
 


Could it be the Carburettor inlet manifolds (carb stub) ?

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1326
Date:
Permalink  
 

Bugeye_bob wrote:

Could it be the Carburettor inlet manifolds (carb stub) ?


 No, that would effectively lean the fuel ratio but would not leak fuel as it suck air when leaking, it does not leak fuel. Furthermore, the leak pictured is at the rear of carb (airbox intake).

 

I would suggest to check the float valve is clean and the float level is set right. The AC pump does look suspect though.

Jarrah

 



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 66
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hi Brian

Not at the moment.. it cost £200+ a few weeks back to get my shock sorted to a fully working condition so I'd like to keep it that way for a bit! 

Scott



__________________


Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 66
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hi Jarrah

You should know better than to write "check the float valve is clean and the float level is set right"  

It is I, the technically inept person!! disbelief Can you offer me a bit of a "how to" that even if it goes over my head I can let my mechanically more advanced mate have a read of?

Cheers if you can   smile

Scott



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

scotty72 wrote:

it cost £200+ a few weeks back to get my shock sorted to a fully working condition so I'd like to keep it that way for a bit! 

Scott


Crikey - was that through Justin Gibbs?

Will get the O rings posted tomorrow.

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1326
Date:
Permalink  
 

scotty72 wrote:

Hi Jarrah

You should know better than to write "check the float valve is clean and the float level is set right"  

It is I, the technically inept person!! disbelief Can you offer me a bit of a "how to" that even if it goes over my head I can let my mechanically more advanced mate have a read of?

Cheers if you can   smile

Scott


 


 I connect the fuel line to see if it blocks the fuel off at the point shown below in the picture. It is the best way of knowing if this is correct. No fuel should be running or dripping out with the float level with the carb body, as shown below. You can also blow through the inlet with a long piece of pipe attached, but this tends to leave condensation in the inlet, so it's best flushed out with fuel afterwards if this method is used.
Posted Image

 When you adjust the float height, make sure tht you remove the float from the chamber. Otherwise you will ruin the valve needle return spring.


Jarrah



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

temp.jpg

 

O rings will be posted today Scott wink

When you come to refit the AP cover (part 36 in pic above), face it up on a bit of fine wet & dry paper to get rid of any corrosion or detritus and give it the best chance of getting a good seal. Also, don't forget to fit the spring!

Brian 



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 66
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks a lot Brian smile

 

It was. I think he was a bit snowed under and it turned out that the shaft was badly corroded so had to be sent off to the one place in the country which can rebuild/surface it which added around 70 ish pounds and 6 plus weeks to the process as well. Shock does seem good, but as Justin said, it is now practically 80% new!



-- Edited by scotty72 on Tuesday 17th of September 2013 10:38:33 AM

__________________


Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 66
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks a lot Jarrah smile



__________________


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 299
Date:
carb
Permalink  
 


I need the internal and external carb rubbers going from engine to carb 



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

Carb_stub_new1.jpg

Is this what you are looking for Sammy?



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 299
Date:
Permalink  
 

Yeah how much could you send a pay pal invoice to saharvey@hotmail.co.uk as need it thanks

BTW got a cylinder head for mine just few other parts and see be back on the road 



-- Edited by sammyttr on Friday 20th of September 2013 12:04:37 PM

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

See http://www.totallyttrs.com/NOS/index#carb_stub

Paypal invoice on its way.

Good to hear you found a cylinder head wink

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 299
Date:
Permalink  
 

Didn't realise it be that much crickey will need to double check mine before ordering sorry just quite a bit more than I expected,

__________________


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 299
Date:
Permalink  
 

Right checked mine and its fubor, been right bodged, not even right manifold, might be not this friday but one after when i can order one.

__________________


Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 33
Date:
carb removal
Permalink  
 


Guys

I have a gummed up carb no

Petrol not getting through from tank and the plugs bone dry.

Any ideas?

The carb looks a devil to seperate from the engine.

Cheers

Tony



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 2473
Date:
Permalink  
 

Stacks of good carburettor threads on here - mainly by Jarrah.

For starts, TRY THIS one.

If that doesn't help you then use the Search facility at the top and search for "carb" or "fuel" or something similar.

Martyn

 



__________________

You're never too old to learn something stupid

Budleigh Salterton. Devon



Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

jasperthehorse wrote:

The carb looks a devil to separate from the engine.


Remove the LH frame side strut, CDi and airbox. The carb can the be easily removed/replaced wink

It sounds a bit of a faff but a carb can be removed and replaced quite quickly using this method - other methods are available smile 

Although some owners successfully remove he carb with the airbox in situ, this does put some strain on the inlet stub and could cause the rubber section at the carb end to part from the aluminium stub that attaches to the engine. Probably more of a concern on older TTRs.

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 33
Date:
Permalink  
 

Alternatively!!

A little drop of petrol directly in the cylinder bore, plug back in. A mixtutre of petrol and brake and clutch cleaner sprayed into the air intake whilst turning it over. Couple of pops,bangs and burps and hey presto thumper lives.
Splash of redex into the tank with fresh go go juice and off for a little run around the block.
Net result? Back in love with the tough little bugger.

Tell you what I did when i got home though! Turned the petrol tap off and ran it dry of petrol in the float. Lesson learned.


__________________


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 204
Date:
carb advice
Permalink  
 


Having stripped and rebuilt the shock linkage done all wheel bearings adjusted my valves and stripped and cleaned carb bikes all back together and going great but my carb now has a leak !

Ive taken it back off and found its almost squirting from the bottom from the accelerator pump housing (ive replaced the orings with the closest fitting ones i can find and it still leaks when pushing the accelerator pump

I didnt put the bowl back on just put fuel in and pumped it and when i took it apart again the top of the diaphram is wet (dont think there should be fuel on that side ?

So am i likley to need a diaphram as well as the two o rings ?

Thanks



-- Edited by chrisstdt on Friday 10th of January 2014 01:40:33 PM

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
carb advise
Permalink  
 


chrisstdt wrote:

Having stripped and rebuilt the shock linkage done all wheel bearings adjusted my valves and stripped and cleaned carb bikes all back together and going great but my carb now has a leak !

I've taken it back off and found its almost squirting from the bottom from the accelerator pump housing (ive replaced the o rings with the closest fitting ones i can find and it still leaks when pushing the accelerator pump

I didn't put the bowl back on just put fuel in and pumped it and when i took it apart again the top of the diaphragm is wet (don't think there should be fuel on that side ?

So am i likely to need a diaphragm as well as the two o rings ?

Thanks


Hi Chris

That's a pain no 

Because of leak issues in the past, I always "face" the bottom cover on some wet & dry (placed on a dead flat surface) to make sure it has the best chance of sealing. There always seems to be a bit of corrosion or dried on crud that needs removing on the small cover plate.

For the diaphragm to work properly it needs to seal and I don't think there should be fuel on its "top" side. Is there possibly a small hole in the diaphragm?

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 204
Date:
Permalink  
 

Ok brian il give that a go now and double check the top side is getting wet , but could you pm me a price for the two o rings ,diaphram and float bowl gasket ? thanks

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
RE: carb advice
Permalink  
 


chrisstdt wrote:

Ok brian il give that a go now and double check the top side is getting wet , but could you pm me a price for the two o rings ,diaphram and float bowl gasket ? thanks


 Email on its way Chris wink



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 204
Date:
Permalink  
 

Rubbed the face down with wet and dry but still cant stop the leak ,hopefully the new parts will sort it as im going green laneing next weekend

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Lean angle of the carb!
Permalink  
 


carb angle.jpg

I had lost my refurbishment mojo so haven't done any work on my latest project bike for a long time. There was quite a layer of dust on the frame disbelief

Anyways up, I forced myself out into the workshop yesterday and rebuilt and fitted the carb. The carb lined up nicely with the notch in the inlet stub but when I stood back I noticed that the carb was at a noticeable angle - see pic above. Compare the line of the top of the float bowl to the starter motor (which I assume to be horizontal).

Is there something peculiar about my TTR or has anyone else noticed the "lean" on their carb?

Brian

PS An obvious tip that makes life soooo much easier is to fit the carb, solenoid and associated wiring (such as starter/battery cables and brake light switch) before installing the shock absorber. Install the battery box after that wink



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 204
Date:
carb advice
Permalink  
 


A big thank you to brian and the royal mail ,brian posted the parts i need to stop my carb leaking around 4.30 last night in devon and they arrived in the scottish borders at 11 this morning

Im pleased to say my carb is now back on and leak free and the accelarator jet now works just been round the yard at work on it (i love working saturdays !) and my ttr goes like the wind



-- Edited by chrisstdt on Saturday 11th of January 2014 12:48:43 PM

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

chrisstdt wrote:

A big thank you to brian and the royal mail ,brian posted the parts i need to stop my carb leaking around 4.30 last night in devon and they arrived in the scottish borders at 11 this morning

Im pleased to say my carb is now back on and leak free and the accelerator jet now works just been round the yard at work on it (i love working saturdays !) and my ttr goes like the wind


biggrinbiggrinbiggrin 



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 123
Date:
Permalink  
 

Mine was leaking from there. I put a new diaphragm and o-rings on and it sealed up great!

__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 5
Date:
Carb problem?
Permalink  
 


Hi people 

just want a quick heads up before I remove the carb.I was out greenlaneing on the old trusty TTR 250 on Sunday on the way home bike started playing up,it would start and tick over but soon as you wound throttle up to increase revs it would cut out.Plenty off fuel (half tank) no different if you removed air filter.Several miles from home managed to get home by pulling choke out mm with bike running at high revs.Must admit bike is caked in mud good day up to that point though.hmm



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 2473
Date:
Permalink  
 

Sounds to me that some of that "caked in mud" may have mixed itself with your carburettor internal workings.

Time for a carb clean - inside - and a bike clean - outside - methinks! smile

Martyn



__________________

You're never too old to learn something stupid

Budleigh Salterton. Devon



Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

Cubber is right I think - muck or water in the carb. First try draining the float bowl and see what comes out and check for any "blobs" of water or just plain muck....



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 46
Date:
Lean angle of the carb!
Permalink  
 


Defo looks off compared to one of your other bikes where the carb looks to be much more level.

Has the inlet rubber detached from the manifold and rotated a wee bit??

/download.spark?ID=1421034&aBID=139305



-- Edited by Kenny R on Monday 13th of January 2014 10:19:57 PM

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

Kenny R wrote:

Has the inlet rubber detached from the manifold and rotated a wee bit??

 


 Nope - first thing I checked. The inlet stub is solid confuse



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1326
Date:
Permalink  
 

It looks to me like the carburettor needs loosening and moving around until it is straight(ish).

Are you sure that the carb inlet stub is bolted the right way around on the motor? If it is you will be able to see 4GY printed on the carb inlet stub on the LH side of the engine (looking from the LH side).

Jarrah

 



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

TT-R250M wrote:

It looks to me like the carburettor needs loosening and moving around until it is straight(ish).

Are you sure that the carb inlet stub is bolted the right way around on the motor?

Jarrah


The stub can only go on one way and the carb is gripped by the slot at the top as indicated by the blue arrow on the pic below. 

I will have another look tomorrow but I am sure I installed the carb correctly.

Carb stub.jpg



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1326
Date:
Permalink  
 

TTRfan wrote:
TT-R250M wrote:

It looks to me like the carburettor needs loosening and moving around until it is straight(ish).

Are you sure that the carb inlet stub is bolted the right way around on the motor?

Jarrah


The stub can only go on one way and the carb is gripped by the slot. 

I will have another look tomorrow but I am sure I installed the carb correctly.

 


 I do realize that it has a spot to grip the carb but it is possible to install it the wrong way around. Just another thing to check.

I do not mean to insult your intelligence or knowledge and maybe it is just a ''Lean angle of the carb''?

It would have to be the first I have seen on that angle. confuse I would think that either the vulcanizing in the carb stub has ''let go'' and allowed it to slip around or the carb stub has a manufacturer default. The carb stub has not been changed since it was made so there is not different types.

However, I am happy to settle with the cylinder head having a manufacturer default or the fact that photos can be deceiving. smile

Does the slot in the carb stub sit at a vertical angle and sit straight(ish)?

Jarrah

 



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 218
Date:
RE: Carb problem?
Permalink  
 


http://www.ttr250.com/Removing_carb/TTR_carb_removal.htm

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t54314386/carb/

  Here are just a couple links to help you start. Do a search for Carburetor, carb, etc... and there are lots of topics that may be useful.

greg



__________________

'04 TT-R250sc Blue model U.S.A.



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1326
Date:
Permalink  
 

As mentioned check the carb and fuel for water or contaminates that may have got in.  You should be 100% sure that your carburettor is clean. This includes both the pilot and main jet, both the air jets (main jet and pilot) and your accelerator pump is working correctly.

Here are a few links (that work) to help with this-

 http://www.ttr250.com/Removing_carb/TTR_carb_removal.htm

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t55374798/rebuilding-a-ttr250-teikei-y30p-carburettor/

Any questions- ask!

Jarrah



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
RE: Lean angle of the carb!
Permalink  
 


I would like to say that I found a manufacturing defect in the manifold but, if truth be told, it was user error disbelief

Slackened off the clamp and twisted the carb back and forth and it found its sweet spot - in a much more upright position biggrin

Phew..... 



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1326
Date:
Permalink  
 

TTRfan wrote:

I would like to say that I found a manufacturing defect in the manifold but, if truth be told, it was user error disbelief

Slackened off the clamp and twisted the carb back and forth and it found its sweet spot - in a much more upright position biggrin

Phew..... 


 Ahr yes, back to the first thing I suggested-

TT-R250M wrote:

It looks to me like the carburettor needs loosening and moving around until it is straight(ish).

Jarrah

 


 Glad you found the problem was not Yamaha. biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Jarrah

 



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Newbie

Status: Offline
Posts: 4
Date:
RE: Carb issues
Permalink  
 


TTRfan wrote:

Just had this email from John. I absolutely accept that the carb info on the FAQ and elsewhere is confused and contradictory.

John gives a simple solution to the "bogging" on the Australian TTRs - see below. Feedback would be appreciated. I know of a few other blue TTR owners who feel that their bike is over-jetted with the 147 main jet.

Brian

 

I noticed in your site and other forums, a mass of info about ttr250 carby problems (some of it contradictory).  I was looking because my

2011 aust model had a "flat spot" / "stumble" / "hesitation" (the English language doesn't seem to have the right word). So i waited until it was definitely run-in (2000km), documented the problem for myself (1/3 throttle eg 60-65kph 4th gear very slight acceleration or 80-85kph ditto in 5th gear with 13T/44T with absolutely everything standard, exhaust pipe completely untouched, despite the bike shop telling me to hacksaw off the end of the header which has a small bulge/restrictor/whatever, nothing done to the airbox, standard australian #50 and #147 jets and mid needle position, problem not particularly dependent on atmospheric temp/pressure, normal fuel).

then I made just one change - I moved the needle clip up 1 (ie dropped needle to a  LEANer position) from 3rd clip to 4th clip counting from bottom).

This single change pretty much completely fixed the problem for me, here in Canberra at an altitude of 600 metres above sea level.

 

John


 

 

Hi John and TTRFAN Brian,

I have the exact same issue with the my 2011 TTR just bogging/missing/spouting at certain throttle and and rev count etc.

I cleaned the carb a million times, had it at a Bikeshop(Honda WestCoast motorcycle) which said they did a full clean of the CARB(after I already did it twice) but also remove the snorkel from the Air Box and charged 200 buks and said its just a performance thing and can't fix it. They ensisted it is 90% better, which it was not.(rant over :)) Back then when I open the airbox and close it , on the first run it will run great(which explains the bikeshop thinking it was resolved) but then second and more runs it will just be back to square one. I thought it might be the airflow and finally decided to do the mods, on exhaust(removing "restrcitor" and re-installing the snorkel but shortening it as described on thumpertalk. 

This gave me some more kick I would say but did not solve the issue. 

 

Jets are: 147 and 50

I then read about the needle clip, can you please let me know which position will you suggest I move it to in Perth please? I am in Perth 31.5 above sea level.

(Side note: I found that when the bike is really warm on a long ride home from work on warm day it has NO power) Which I hope will also be solved when I get the bogging or sputting or whatever the condition is called is gone.

 

I have to say I use it mostly to commute to work so Road use everyday. 

 

FYI I get around 167km and on tank and did not push to see how much I actually get to reserve I just fill it every two days.

 

Cheers guys, this site is awesome and Brian you have been my go to handbook when I look for instructions. I read your post and go do it and it brings me closer to fixing it. I would say you/re my mentor without even knowing it.

 

Cheers

Jacko

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1212
Date:
Permalink  
 

Mines a 2010 Ozzy one big the same but went up one size on the pilot jet starts better no flat spot at all but has opened up Airbox and staintune exhaust as well 



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 7732
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hi Jacko and good to see your first post to the forum - also for your kind words handshake.gif

A simple test to see if your carb is running rich or lean is to warm it up by riding it with the airbox cover on and then try riding it with the cover removed. If the carb is running rich then you should "feel" an immediate improvement in which case lower the needle (move the clip up one notch) to lean out the mixture and try again wink

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Newbie

Status: Offline
Posts: 4
Date:
Permalink  
 

TTRfan wrote:

Hi Jacko and good to see your first post to the forum - also for your kind words handshake.gif

A simple test to see if your carb is running rich or lean is to warm it up by riding it with the airbox cover on and then try riding it with the cover removed. If the carb is running rich then you should "feel" an immediate improvement in which case lower the needle (move the clip up one notch) to lean out the mixture and try again wink

Brian


 

 

Thanks mate,

 

I will do the test asap and do the change and get back to you. 

 

TTRBOOF, thanks too, I will first do Brians checks and changes and then if still the issue I will go a size up on the pilot jet. 

 

Thanks again..till later...

 

 

 



__________________


Newbie

Status: Offline
Posts: 4
Date:
Permalink  
 

WackoJacko wrote:
TTRfan wrote:

Hi Jacko and good to see your first post to the forum - also for your kind words handshake.gif

A simple test to see if your carb is running rich or lean is to warm it up by riding it with the airbox cover on and then try riding it with the cover removed. If the carb is running rich then you should "feel" an immediate improvement in which case lower the needle (move the clip up one notch) to lean out the mixture and try again wink

Brian


 

 

Thanks mate,

 

I will do the test asap and do the change and get back to you. 

 

TTRBOOF, thanks too, I will first do Brians checks and changes and then if still the issue I will go a size up on the pilot jet. 

 

Thanks again..till later...

 

 

 


 Hey Brian,

 

I remembered that the test you talking about is what I did inadvertently after I had it at the shop and found that it ran perfectly with the air box cover off.  Good thing, coz I already removed the carby last night to check the needle position. So this morning after my reply I went out and just to check the needle position. I already have it on the 4th setting. there is a 5th one though. I am going to test it on the 5th(last) most highest setting.(this means if the needle is pointing down I move the clip up and the needle goes deeper or drop a setting.) If not I will put it at 4 again and get a another pilot jet one size up from my current.

Cheers

Jacko



-- Edited by WackoJacko on Sunday 24th of March 2019 06:16:26 AM

__________________


Newbie

Status: Offline
Posts: 4
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hi Brian,

 

I set the needle clip to the 5th clip and the Bike went like crap. It was alternating like the fuel was inconstant going up and down in revs when going at stead speed.  I set it back to the 4th notch and the now she's going great with no issues. All though, I'm weary. I i wll give it a few rides before I except a victory. Only difference was. It was colder the few days rode her. 

If the issue comes back, i will be getting a one size up PJ

 

Cheers

Jacko

 

 



__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 5
Date:
Permalink  
 

Is it necessary to remove carb (and half of the rear end of the bike) to do any work on the carb? I want to change the main jet only...on my DR650 it was possible to rotate the carb enough in the manifold and airbox boot to get the float bowl off and change main jet.

__________________


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 846
Date:
Permalink  
 

Getting the float bowl screws off is nigh on impossible - carb doesn't rotate enough.
The more often you do it, the quicker it gets!!

__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 5
Date:
Permalink  
 

Ok thanks. Got my work for the weekend set out then.

__________________
«First  <  1 2 3 | Page of 3  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.



Create your own FREE Forum
Report Abuse
Powered by ActiveBoard