A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

boredus · Veteran Member

Project OE

boredus · Veteran Member

I started off working front to back.
The front wheel had a little side play so a bearing kit was ordered. The front pads were down to less than a mm so new pads were fitted too.
Caliper was removed ( but left on the hydrolic line) so that I could check the working of the brake pistons and clean out any gunk/sand that was inside the caliper.

After cleaning it up and a good spray down with WD40 the pistons were in good shape and moved very well so no need for new seals and pistons.
The Brake fluid however was another matter....

So fluid in and the removal of the hideous green bark busters!
New Front brake lever fitted and along with that came the white hand guards and grips to be fitted later on.

boredus · Veteran Member

The headstock bearings are looking good with no obvious notches or stiffness so for now I am leaving those as is and moving on. Skipping the engine as I started looking at the noisy/stiff rear wheel.

Pads recessed in to the disc. Thats new pads and disc from Totallyttrs ordered then.
The wheel was really tight so it was a struggle to remove the caliper. Once it was off, I tried getting the rear axle out.... and tried for a long time. this was rusted in place.
After a lot of WD40 and brute force it finally came out. happy to say the bearings appear in good shape but some serious cleaning of the axle was needed.

boredus · Veteran Member

With the rear wheel out it was time to tackle the rear suspension that was very stiff / stuck. With shock removed the swingarm didnt move! When I pushed it down it actually creaked and sounded like I had snapped something. An all balls lower suspension kit was ordered. There seemed to be some play in the swingarm after the kit was fitted, more about that in this thread :LINKY

I decided to move on with the few mm of play to see if it will get through the MOT when complete.

The top shock mount was worn out so I got the replacement kit which was straight forward to fit.

With the rear wheel now fitted, the play on the swingarm is about 2-3mm.

I struggled to get the rear wheel in which turned out to be the new rear disc not fitting between the new pads. I skimmed off a small amount off the static rear pad and happy days the rear wheel is in.

boredus · Veteran Member

Now that I could turn the bike around in the garage it was time to get on with the engine.
The rebore went well and the cylinder has come out perfectly with no damage to be seen. The crank/conrod look superb, like new and there is no play in the big end so happy days we can get to fitting the new bits.

It all came together nicely until when I set the timing, the timing lines were slightly off, which I see in mx bikes when checking the valve shims every few hours because the timing chain is stretching. When checking the movement, turning engine over forwards was fine, but as soon as it went backwards the chain slacked off and jumped a tooth.
Checking the timing chain and tensioner I noticed there was a blob of weld added to the tensioner so that is a good indication the chain is well past its limits.
After starting a thread about this : LINKY I ordered a new timing chain and Brian had a good 2nd hand tensioner so we were in good form again.

Brian suggested going a little deeper in the engine now as if the previous owners took the same approach to maintenance on the rest of the engine like on the tensioner and chain then there could be alsorts of nasties waiting for me.
The clutch, although all fused together looks very new and the basket has seen very little use. My first bonus point so far on this project. The internal casing looks like new. The only downside I can see is the clutch is discoloured / stained by black burnt oil. Seems the provious owners didnt think of replacing the oil either!

TTRfan · Super Guru

Great to see you posting up the project pics and details Ian biggrin

I know it's a pain taking pics as you go along but I love these project threads as there is always something to learn from how other owners go about things and the different issues they find - so keep up the good work - please!

Brian

boredus · Veteran Member

Hi all,

The bike is coming along nicely now. Had a slow down in progress this last week due to work commitments.

While taking the clutch apart I realised I would have to get a clutch holding tool to suit the TTR. As I was working on the engine over the weekend I couldnt be bothered to order one and wait for it to arrive during the week so I used a piece of 6mm alloy and traced out a design. Hindsight is a wonderful thing but more on that later!

While drilling out the inside bits I realised it was going to be a real pig to file all the teath to fit the clutch hub...... why on why didnt I leave it solid and just drill the 5 holes for the clutch spring bolts and 1 large one for the centre nut! oh well.

I ended up using a flat piece of wood for that - I have about 5 of these now! but none of them fit the same bike!!!
So the clutch bolts and the nut on the cranck shaft that I had to remove to fit the new timing chain are all torqued up ready to close up the engine.

-- Edited by boredus on Saturday 2nd of February 2013 09:04:27 PM

-- Edited by boredus on Saturday 2nd of February 2013 09:38:09 PM

boredus · Veteran Member

With the clutch cover all sealed up I tried the clutch lever, there was no way I would last 5 minutes on the trails with that so stiff/hard to pull.

A couple of suggestions in the mechanical section were to open it up and check I put it together properly. I was certain I had, but it needed checking over.

It turned out that with the new clutch was installed 5 heavy duty clutch springs. These just seemed over-kill compared to the clutches on my KXF250 and CRF250X. I know they are more than 10 years younger than the TTR but wow they are so different.

Brian was kind enough to send me some used standard springs with the sprockets I ordered this week. I have fitted 3 standard and 2 heavy duty springs. It seems a good compromise and the clutch works very well. I will find out what it is like when the oil is hot and the engine straining in the mud later this year!

Today I removed the sprockets that came fitted with the bike as they are both hooked and are the standard 14/44 set up the Open Enduro came with. After reading some threads here I ordered the 13/48 set. Getting the drive sprocket nut off was a right pain, on my own with leg flung over the bike pushing the brake leaver and trying to undo the nut was impossible. Even after I went to Halfords and picked up a 500mm breaker bar and a extended 30mm impact socket.

In the end it took 2 of us and a bar through the rear sprocket and pushed against the swingarm while I was stood on the rear brake pedal. Even with new pads and fresh oil, the brakes alone were not enough. Tightening it back up was just as painful so we used the bar through the rear sprocket agian. Not ideal really.

Someone asked the question last week, no the chain for the 14/44 setup will not fit the 13/48 sprocket set unless the wheel was right at the back of the swingarm slots before you change the sprockets.

-- Edited by boredus on Sunday 3rd of February 2013 12:01:23 AM

boredus · Veteran Member

Found this post regarding the seat. Think I will keep my eye open for a seat and a tank. which ever comes up first.
http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t49227939/raid-tank-on-a-blue-02/

-- Edited by boredus on Sunday 3rd of February 2013 12:13:33 AM

TTRfan · Super Guru

Hi Ian

Just checking, are you now looking for a standard OE tank or a Raid seat and, if so, which would you prefer?

By the way, excellent pics and update - many thanks for doing that.

I think that if someone could come up with a device to "jam" the TTR front sprocket then they would be on to a winner! I recall seeing a pic of a modifed chain device - was that on here anyone remember?

Brian

barra8 · Guru

TTRfan wrote:
Hi Ian
Just checking, are you now looking for a standard OE tank or a Raid seat and, if so, which would you prefer?
By the way, excellent pics and update - many thanks for doing that.
I think that if someone could come up with a device to "jam" the TTR front sprocket then they would be on to a winner! I recall seeing a pic of a modifed chain device - was that on here anyone remember?
Brian

Sure do remember Brian.

This was mine,....

Latest update to my engine stand. Ready for the next coat of blue engine paint smile

This was Lins...

....................

I did'nt end up having to use the chain device that i made because i used this clutch holding tool that i made using a stick welder. (mig would have been better)

I may have to one day when taking off the flywheel though without taking the clutch cover off,although putting it in gear should do the trick.

Just so you know the chain device would NOT be good for holding the clutch unless you are using one like Brian's tool that does not hold the basket. (as far as i can tell)...

Sorry bout the thread hi-jack maybe Brian can fix it if you don't want it on here boredus

.........................

Jarrah.

-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 3rd of February 2013 01:30:04 AM

boredus · Veteran Member

I just realised I have been a bit stingy with photos of the progress..... off to the garage to take some!

boredus · Veteran Member

I ordered the countersunk bolt kit from totallyttrs with the new sprockets. Good fit these are. The original bolts are flat which isnt an issue, I just found it strange the previous owner had replaced the sprockets and fitted the rear sprocket with the flat heads against the countersunk holes..... I would have just turned the sprocket around so they bolted on flush with the surface.
Here is the old set, the alloy rear sprocket is about a 1/3 of the weight of the new steel sprocket.

Here is the new one fitted

boredus · Veteran Member

New rear disc and pads all fitted too.

Sprayed the exhaust with high heat bbq paint.

Engine all back together. So quiet..... apart from the dreaded sprag clutch clunk

boredus · Veteran Member

The bike came with a Raid tank fitted, does anyone know if the raid seat will fit better? The Open enduro seat climbs up the tank and looks a bit rubbish.

boredus · Veteran Member

Hi Brian,

I like the idea of the larger raid tank so a seat would be great..... if only!

I missed a OE tank about 2 weeks ago on ebay, wish I had been a bit more interested in it then!

I was thinking of chopping up a OE seat if I could find a spare to see what it would look like

boredus · Veteran Member

Gave it a quick clean today. Things to note so far.
1. The rear brake is sticking so badly it stops the bike when I pull in the clutch.
2. The sprag clutch needs replacing.
3. Really should fit the new battery as the old one sounds like it struggles to turn the engine over..... I still dont know why I put the old one back in!!
4.Some crazy person has sprayed over the flat purple of the frame with metallica pink/purple to match the wheels..... what sort of a heathen would even think that was cool

-- Edited by boredus on Sunday 3rd of February 2013 03:37:41 PM

TTRfan · Super Guru

Looking good Ian biggrin

Rear brake doesn't sound good as a sticky one will boil up the brake fluid as well as possibly damage the pads and disc.

Don't leave the sprag too long as it can get mightily expensive if it damages the strater pinion and/or gears.

Regarding the frame spraying, you are lucky the PO didn't spray everthing near the frame as well! I bought in a TTR where that had happened and occasionally I am reminded when I pull a part out of the spares box and see it is covered in purple metallic spray paint

Brian

TTRfan · Super Guru

Your guess as to what caused the brake binding was correct then Ian.

Just a thought. One of the caliper pins slides in a rubber grommet. Could you perhap sacrifice the grommet by cutting or burning it out so that you then could rotate the caliper body slightly to help free it?

If taht sounds a bit drastic, you could just cut the outside end off that grommet then you could at least get some WD40 into that one. The other pin is in a blind hole if I recall correctly.

Brian

boredus · Veteran Member

Had a look at the locked up rear brake tonight. It is the self centering/floating caliper. The mounting pins from the braket are corroded solid inside the caliper meaning it can self adjust and keep the caliper centered over the disc.

So after some banging after 10pm....... Rear caliper 1 2lb hammer 0 !!
Sprayed some wd40 on them now and left them. Am doubtful the wd40 will work its way in as the rubber seals are still whole.

In this pic you can see the static pad locked up against the disc

Tried prizing it off but that didnt work at all. Have got it to budge a couple of mm but now wont move at all.

boredus · Veteran Member

Hi Brian,
Yes I am thinking about burning the rear most boot out and then pushing the caliper upwards on the blind one, hopefully breaking the seal on the corrosion.
Will have to find some new rubber boots to replace these then.
Ian

Cubber · Super Guru

Ian, take a look at this CLICKY - it is good advice about caliper construction and pins.

Good luck on your quest. wink

Martyn

boredus · Veteran Member

Wow Martyn, thats great thank you! have just copied the part numbers over.

boredus · Veteran Member

I ordered the new caliper pins and boots on Tuesday but they havent turned up yet so I decided to have a go at getting the old bits off whole, clean it all up and reassemble today so that I could crack on with fitting a new sprag clutch.

The culprits of the stuck caliper.

New sprag fitted and on reassbly I noticed this.... oh boy. Looks like the sprag has gone before and backlashed something terrible. The eagle eyed will notice the wiring poking out the wrong place..... that resulted in it all coming off and putting back on again!

Front indicator brackets knocked up....nothing pretty but functional

Rear flush ones fitted - bit big n clunky but will do.

Fitted a rear seat from a raid ( after a new seat cover was fitted) - notice how the side panels dont fit the shape as per the Open Enduro seat.
Tank to seat fitment is also a bit poor.

-- Edited by boredus on Saturday 9th of February 2013 06:46:28 PM

-- Edited by boredus on Saturday 9th of February 2013 06:48:44 PM

TTRfan · Super Guru

boredus wrote:
I ordered the new caliper pins and boots on Tuesday but they havent turned up yet so I decided to have a go at getting the old bits off whole, clean it all up and reassemble today so that I could crack on with fitting a new sprag clutch.

Bad luck Ian. I have found that even the big dealers like Fowlers just don't keep this sort of thing in stock and there is usually a delay.

If anyone is desperate for the parts we now keep front and rear kits in stock ready for immediate despatch - see here

I keep the parts mainly for my own use but hope that other owners might find the kits useful.

Brian

boredus · Veteran Member

:( thats about £8 less than I paid for mine.

mossproof · Super Guru

RE The poor seat to tank fit of the raid items on a oe frame, I glued some rubber strips to the seat base where it sits on the frame - an 18mm strip across the back where the bolts fit, and 9mm strips 1/2 way forwards towards the tank. (Longer seat bolts required) This pitches the seat forward so that it lies against the tank all the way up. As for the poor fit against the side panels, no solution as yet, other than filling the gap with some neoprene strip, purely for aesthetics! I don't like the "bulk" of the raid panels.
Good luck with the project. Weather the setbacks, the TTR's worth it!
Simon.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Off centre outlet.jpg

Mr Yamaha employed a trick on some blue TTR exhausts to prevent number plate issues - see pic above - spot the difference to yours Ian?

boredus · Veteran Member

Thanks Simon. I have just left it as is for now. Will see how it weathers after a few months use.
Ready for MOT this week although I think I will be leaving that until March as it is stupid cold at the moment!
She aint pretty but everything works, very well which is what I was after. I could spend another 6 weeks stripping it and making it all look like new but that will add another £500 on top of what has been spent and it is money I would rather put in to Frame guards, Bash plate and exhaust in April.

I have a full size numberplate fitted now, it has changed the exhaust note as the gases are hitting the number plate, does anyone else have this issue? I certainly dont want the plate to melt before I get to work!

Cubber · Super Guru

No problem with mine, Ian biggrin biggrin

It misses by a mile or two. smile

Yours shouldn't melt the plate but they can get a bit sooty.
Maybe you could mount it a little lower to let the gasses flow above it.

Better not put it so low that the light doesn't illuminate it at night though.

Martyn

boredus · Veteran Member

Right just done a sum up of costs so far.

Before MOT and taxing it, the total bill, including the purchase of the bike is £1068 ( Bike was £461)

So there has been no tarting it up and the bike came with a new 1mm oversize piston and gaskets so if I add them to the cost that means that this bike would have cost a total of £1200.

The only work I have not done myself is the cylinder bore for the 1mm oversize piston. Now all I need is for the MOT man to complain about the tyres!

boredus · Veteran Member

I thought about moving it over like that but it just looks wrong! must..... keep......things...... balanced! nope sorry my eyes just wouldnt let me move the number plate over!

I am using this as justification to buy the motad silcencer as I believe that has an angled outlet!

there is method in that madness somewhere

boredus · Veteran Member

Might as well throw in a picture of my other Enduro that is being sold as soon as I have replaced the front wheel bearings. I thought she was ready to go now but after a shakedown on Sat it turns out the front wheel has some play in it and I just cant let that go.
This was my pre-TTR road bike idea but it needs a aftermarket wiring and lighting system to get it through the MOT and that is around £500 so it needs to find a new home!

Cubber · Super Guru

It's the angle that makes it seem to one side.

The number plate is, in fact, dead central - it's just that it is fastened lower down.

My TTR still sports the original LONG mudguard which hasn't been chopped. wink

Martyn

boredus · Veteran Member

ahh the world has gone back to normal! thanks Martyn I see what you mean now.

I guess I could use a piece of the older numberplate on the back to drop the new one a bit - as in use the old one as a lowering bracket almost. I cant drill another set of holes in the new numberplate so that seems like a good idea.

thanks

Ian

TTRfan · Super Guru

boredus wrote:
I thought about moving it over like that but it just looks wrong! must..... keep......things...... balanced! nope sorry my eyes just wouldnt let me move the number plate over!
I am using this as justification to buy the motad silcencer as I believe that has an angled outlet!
there is method in that madness somewhere

You are absolutely right Ian - that was one of the design requirements we gave to Motad wink

Coincidentally the angled outlet pipe also helps reduce noise.

Brian

Cubber · Super Guru

What?

The rusty seat rail protects the number plate?? confuse biggrin biggrin confuse

Martyn

boredus · Veteran Member

pfft! and I even cleaned and painted that exhaust! the only part I have cleaned and painted too!

Oh well, Brian do you hold the Motad ones in stock? Payday is fast approaching!

TTRfan · Super Guru

Cubber wrote:
What?
The rusty seat rail protects the number plate??
Martyn

What rusty seat rail confuse

biggrin biggrin biggrin

TTRfan · Super Guru

boredus wrote:
pfft! and I even cleaned and painted that exhaust! the only part I have cleaned and painted too!

Oh well, Brian do you hold the Motad ones in stock? Payday is fast approaching!

Andy has them in stock all ready to go!

Click here to buy when you are ready Ian smile

Brian

PS I haven't worked out which TTRs have the offset outlet coz I hadn't realised until Andy pointed it out to me disbelief

boredus · Veteran Member

Just a quick update to say that this project has gone nowhere! Frustrated to hell with it, between the weather and work, I havent even booked the MOT :(

Finders crossed May 2013 will be better than April in both areas - worked out this morning while driving to work I havent ridden a motorbike on the road in over 2 years now

Cubber · Super Guru

Poor Ian

Two years is definitely twenty four months wasted.

I've been out today since the sun was shining and the April drought is just finished. biggrin

The lanes hereabouts are a bit wet with plenty of water lying about

I decided not to get the bike too muddy and before I did I took a shot to remind me what it was like.

Side shot.JPG

Then it was a trip up the hill to see the view of Sidmouth. blankstare

And a trip down to the County Road (signed on the post) to wash the muck off before getting home.

County Road.JPG

Since April is nearly over now, if I were you, Ian, I'd be seriously thinking that the good times are coming - better get that MoT and start riding.

Much longer and you may be having to re-take your test and get some experience. aww hmm

Good luck with the OE project - you're nearly there.

Martyn

boredus · Veteran Member

Thanks Martyn,

After the walk we had on Sunday it appears that February full dyke has moved on to March and April too! no such thing as a dry path here :(

We are coming to the end of an intense / stressful project at work on the 22 April, so fingers crossed I can actually have some 'Ian' time and maybe take a proper lunch break!

The thought of a day off work has sent shivers up my spine! might take one of those to get it done, roll on the summer!

boredus · Veteran Member

Well, Project OE has now ground to a complete halt.

Was supposed to be MOT'd today but went to start it this morning, all good. Put it in gear and it slammed forward. Started it again, little bit more revs, front brake in and engaged first, nearly threw me off.

So anyone got any bright ideas why after standing 2 months the clutch just stops working? It was working fine before the rubbish weather kicked in, I have even had a sneaky test ride amongst the side roads on our street with no probs at all.

Really dissapointed now.

TTRfan · Super Guru

That's very bad luck Ian - sorry to hear it.

It's very unusual for TTR clutches to stick but I am guessing that's what's happened if the cable adjustment etc is OK.

One way to break the stiction is to rock the TTR back and forth until you get it in top gear. Side stand up, clutch pulled in, front and rear brakes on hard or TTR parked with front wheel against a wall (preferably) and try the starter to see if the clutch frees.

Brian

boredus · Veteran Member

Thanks Brian,
I will give that a go tomorrow.
Gutted today as I had mentally crowned today as 'THE' day to get some road miles in and just break the engine in as the new Piston and rebore have 0 hours on them.
Oh well, hey its Friday and the 'Braai' is going strong.

boredus · Veteran Member

Hello All,
Diagnosis on the clutch was correct, over the time I left the bike standing the clutch plates had bound to the steels. Free'd them up yesterday and left the plates soaking in oil for a couple of hours before putting them back in. Clutch works perfectly again and the bike rides great again.

The whole job ( excluding soak time) took me about an hour and a new clutch cover gasket, now if Yamaha had been clever and just put a clutch window in there like most offroad bikes I could have done it in 20 minutes!!

boredus · Veteran Member

biggrin Hurray project OE has passed its MOT first time with only 2 minor warnings. The bright pink handlebars are a little twisted - Tester mocks me as they are the same colour as the wheels! and the front wheel bearings have some play.... which is strange as I fitted new ones so will have a look at that.

Also noted in passing was the binding rear pads.... genious that I am I havent fitted the new sliders yet. 8 months in to the project and I totally forgot about that.

The speedo is not working at all so the sender unit has been posted off to Brian to have repaired. In the meantime I have a trailtech dash that I will fit to keep me giong until the sensor is back.
Off to the garage now to do some fettling and fine tuning.

Cubber · Super Guru

That's a better report, Ian, now the light is at the end of the tunnel for you.

I'm sure it will all have been worth it - no gain without some pain. wink

Martyn

noeyedear · Senior Member

Great to here you have finally got the mot. My mate and I were bidding against you

. Hope to see you out and about sometime as I too live in woking