A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

barra8 · Guru

RE: Too much mud into the front sprocket, any solution?

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

Well, I do not know what you want say with your ttr had the case saver from the factory because looking your screenshots, the case saber is equal.

Personally without mud the live is not fun.;) When I have the case saver, I will tell you what I think. I´m waiting it, perhaps today, tomorrow or later, who knows?

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

I have received today the case saver, it looks great, today I will put it but probably I will not test it before the next sunday, at least if it is not raining.

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
The valves would usualy have a life span of roughly two timing chains before they need reseating
I was curious about one thing. Must be changed the timing chain? if it is correct, when? must it be tightened? I ask this because I´m curious about if my ttr consume too oil, I´m not sure because I have not looked it very well but the past year I lost oil by the front sprocket seal and the case of the oil filter, I needed replace the seals. But the unique curious thing is when I start the engine with the "starter on" and I see a big amount of smoke these cold days. It stars without problems but the amount of smoke is a little bigger than before.

The timing/cam chain cannot be tightened if you have a standard tensioner. It just does it's thing until the chain is stretched too far for the automatic adjuster to compensate. If there is no top end noise then this should be okay. You can check when you take the head cover off by looking at the timing marks.

This is with a good cam chain fitted...

Now a bad cam chain...

scaled.php?server=830&filename=087yf.jpg&res=medium

The motor above ran fine apparently see here for more info

If you want to be able to adjust it when your chain gets a little stretched,buy a manual tensioner (check ebay).

With the smoke it sounds like you will be replacing your valve stem seals sooner rather than later. These are easy & cheap to replace. See click here for a guide. Just remove the valve stems gently with a pair of long nose pliers after removing valves. See here for cheap genuine parts

If it is only smoking cold on start-up & goes away when warm it is definitely valve stem seals. But if it continues smoking your rings may be at fault.

REMEMBER:Do them one at a time so that all parts go back on the same valve & mark them so you know which ones you have done to make it easier.

If it continues to smoke after doing valve stem seals i suggest you replace rings.

Oops wrong link. Should be good now

-- Edited by TT-R250M on Sunday 10th of February 2013 10:16:30 AM

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
With the smoke it sounds like you will be replacing your valve stem seals sooner rather than later.
Does it need any special calibration or adjustment? only replace the seals?
What pieces from these must be replaced? I want calculate for sure how must it will cost here at spain.
Thanks by the answers, it will help a lot because at spain there are not too much information about it.

No they shouldn't need re-lapping but you can lap them a little if you wish (vid below) & check out this thread for tips.

You should get away with doing just the valve stem seals (if someone hasn't beat you to this previously).

It will not cost much for valve stem seals & timing chain is not much more. See part number 7 below & click here for the price. If you have to replace the timing chain guides the price will go up a fair bit.

Diagram of Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1999 TTR250LC VALVE Diagram

If you want to lap the valves just buy grinding paste & do as the vid does below once the valve is out.

-- Edited by TT-R250M on Sunday 10th of February 2013 10:35:00 AM

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

The valves would usualy have a life span of roughly two timing chains before they need reseating

I was curious about one thing. Must be changed the timing chain? if it is correct, when? must it be tightened? I ask this because I´m curious about if my ttr consume too oil, I´m not sure because I have not looked it very well but the past year I lost oil by the front sprocket seal and the case of the oil filter, I needed replace the seals. But the unique curious thing is when I start the engine with the "starter on" and I see a big amount of smoke these cold days. It stars without problems but the amount of smoke is a little bigger than before.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

With the smoke it sounds like you will be replacing your valve stem seals sooner rather than later.

Does it need any special calibration or adjustment? only replace the seals?

What pieces from these must be replaced? I want calculate for sure how must it will cost here at spain.

Thanks by the answers, it will help a lot because at spain there are not too much information about it.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

Very useful information, the seal stem has a price of 11€ each one + tax at spain, over 60 all them put at my house, it could be worse. I can handle it with my low resources.

About cheap mechanics......I do not think that I find a mechanic familiarized with this engine here, specially cheap. Usually open a engine can cost easily $300 here.

Interesting the info about the manual tensioner. Only I would like if there is a amount at miles or kilomiters for each repair. Other useful thing would be to know if I open the engine for replace the seal stem, should I replace other thing? for do not waste the open of the engine. But first probably I must check how many oil consumes the motorcycle. Perhaps it is not too. Yesterday I replaced the oil and I will check better how many it consumes.

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
Very useful information, the seal stem has a price of 11€ each one + tax at spain, over 60 all them put at my house, it could be worse. I can handle it with my low resources.

About cheap mechanics......I do not think that I find a mechanic familiarized with this engine here, specially cheap. Usually open a engine can cost easily $300 here.

Interesting the info about the manual tensioner. Only I would like if there is a amount at miles or kilomiters for each repair. Other useful thing would be to know if I open the engine for replace the seal stem, should I replace other thing? for do not waste the open of the engine. But first probably I must check how many oil consumes the motorcycle. Perhaps it is not too. Yesterday I replaced the oil and I will check better how many it consumes.

Okay....There is no specific time/distance travelled to replace the timing chain or valves because it all depends on how you ride/oil used ect.

If you are doing valve stem seals i suggest that you do the timing chain at the same time. Check that the cam/timing chain guides have no cracks & are not too worn.

Your oil problem can be due to two things.....Oil rings......valve stem seals.

That smoke that you see is oil burning from the valve stem seals worn. If it's really bad & continues smoking when riding,it could mean that your rings need replacing. If it's not smoking once it's warm it's pretty conclusive that it's your valve stem seals.

How to check rings.....

Buy a compression tester & test the compression. Check your manual for specs.

Check when cold & once it's warmed up. This will give you a good idea whether the rings are bad.

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Oh you may want to start a new thread so people looking for this info can see it.

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
What is the breather? sorry I´m from spain and I do not understand some words.

Oil breather located at your head cover & runs through a 10mm ID pipe (10mm inside diameter) to your air-box emission control unit (standard for the blue model)

Part number 17 below...

Diagram of Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1999 TTR250R - TT250RL CYLINDER HEAD Diagram

-- Edited by TT-R250M on Tuesday 12th of February 2013 11:19:24 AM

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

I do not think that it be the oil rings because the engine starts very well and it does not show compression problems. Even I can be crazy and the my ttr does not consume more oil by these problems, it could be many other things as cross deep water puddles, run very slow as at city but between trees and rocks, I remembered how in the past, when I bought the motorcycle, it had consumed more oil at summer, specially running slow and between cars.

Other curious points are how the past summer, it lost oil by the front sprocket seal and I had problems with the seals from the oil filter. Even if I added more oil, the main level could go more low and by this reason it shows as if it consumed more oil. The next days I will check it better, perhaps the weather be better and I can use the motorcycle.

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
I do not think that it be the oil rings because the engine starts very well and it does not show compression problems. Even I can be crazy and the my ttr does not consume more oil by these problems, it could be many other things as cross deep water puddles, run very slow as at city but between trees and rocks, I remembered how in the past, when I bought the motorcycle, it had consumed more oil at summer, specially running slow and between cars.

Other curious points are how the past summer, it lost oil by the front sprocket seal and I had problems with the seals from the oil filter. Even if I added more oil, the main level could go more low and by this reason it shows as if it consumed more oil. The next days I will check it better, perhaps the weather be better and I can use the motorcycle.

Make sure your breather is not blocked as this can cause the sprocket seal to leak & other seals to leak also.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

What is the breather? sorry I´m from spain and I do not understand some words.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

If I do not understand, it is the piece with a water filter, usually I drain it but never I cleaned it at 100%. I will check.

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
If I do not understand, it is the piece with a water filter, usually I drain it but never I cleaned it at 100%. I will check.

It runs back to part number 22. below

Diagram of Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1999 TTR250R - TT250RL INTAKE Diagram

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
Yes, it is the same piece, usually it has water into it and I drain it with the piece 28.

Yep,that's what I'm talking about. It usually has oily water in it. Make sure it can breath through the emission control unit too.

It is a good way to tell if the owner knows the bike & how to service when buying.

-- Edited by TT-R250M on Tuesday 12th of February 2013 11:07:47 PM

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

Yes, it is the same piece, usually it has water into it and I drain it with the piece 28.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

I wouldn't be leaving my breather pipe exposed to the elements. My filter is pre-oiled so i have no need to worry about a bit of oil vapors mixing with the fuel. Also if you want it to go faster the best way is to UPGRADE! Just new jetting/twin air filter/muffler makes HEAPS of difference.

I agree, only I read to one guy telling how the motorcycle run better without the tube number 25 connected to the air filter. But I do not agree with it and I find it very strange because usually this feature is neccesary for a good carburation. Other problem for me can be if the pressure from the oil breather is not enough and the water with mud enters in the engine.

About the air filter, I use a twin air but now I´m curious if you could replace the piece number 9, one time I see a piece different with a better breather.

I'll tell you what happens if you try to blow the breather line out with an air compressor.

I would find it normal because you are adding a lot of pressure into the engine. Usually I disconnect the oil breather from all tubes and I clean with a compressor.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

What happen if you disconnect the oil breather from the air filter? is it good or a bad idea?

TTRfan · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
What happen if you disconnect the oil breather from the air filter? is it good or a bad idea?

Why would you want to do that confuse

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

It is only a curious matter, I have read one guy who he tells how the TTR goes better without it but I do not trust it. I have seen it at other engines and without it the engine failed a lot.

verticaltwin · Member

I finally got my rear axle problem sorted out, new wheel bearings and chain, etc... Got to go riding and ended up in some serious mud and found that the front sprocket guard just completely clogged with mud... not to mention the rear wheel. I started to go down a steep drop-off and the bike wouldn't go I had to get on the throttle to go downhill it was so clogged with mud. New chain just looked like solid clay mud... glad I spent extra on an o-ring chain!

Anyone know of a source for the case saver in the US? I'd like to remove the front chain guard, but would hate to break a chain or suck a rock in there and break the case. I like the ones in the pictures earlier in this thread... Just wish they didn't have to ship from the other side of the world. I imagine that shipping would cost as much as the case saver! lol...

The ttr250 is a beast and was super fun to ride! Loved the tractor power in 1st/2nd gears. Pleasantly surprised...

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
What happen if you disconnect the oil breather from the air filter? is it good or a bad idea?

I wouldn't be leaving my breather pipe exposed to the elements. My filter is pre-oiled so i have no need to worry about a bit of oil vapors mixing with the fuel. Also if you want it to go faster the best way is to UPGRADE! Just new jetting/twin air filter/muffler makes HEAPS of difference.

On a side note: I'll tell you what happens if you try to blow the breather line out with an air compressor. It blows the (front) sprocket seal out lol. biggrin Did that once......not so fun! disbelief

verticaltwin wrote:
I finally got my rear axle problem sorted out, new wheel bearings and chain, etc... Got to go riding and ended up in some serious mud and found that the front sprocket guard just completely clogged with mud... not to mention the rear wheel. I started to go down a steep drop-off and the bike wouldn't go I had to get on the throttle to go downhill it was so clogged with mud. New chain just looked like solid clay mud... glad I spent extra on an o-ring chain!

Anyone know of a source for the case saver in the US? I'd like to remove the front chain guard, but would hate to break a chain or suck a rock in there and break the case. I like the ones in the pictures earlier in this thread... Just wish they didn't have to ship from the other side of the world. I imagine that shipping would cost as much as the case saver! lol...

The ttr250 is a beast and was super fun to ride! Loved the tractor power in 1st/2nd gears. Pleasantly surprised...

Funny you mention the wheel bearing as my rear are at the verge of busting loose from the axle lol. Not that funny though because i was REALLY looking forward to going trail riding tomorrow disbelief hmm Will have to wait until Monday until i can get the bearing now doh Love how quiet the o-ring chains are & swear by them for reliability!

Sounds like you had a good time from (TT). Always fun to get out & about! I am yet to christen my bike (stack) & dread the day as I'm usually not going so slow lol. It's usually those imbarasing moments when going slow that that happens though lol. smile Glad your enjoying your TT-R :ride:

:cheers:

verticaltwin · Member

verticaltwin wrote:

I finally got my rear axle problem sorted out, new wheel bearings and chain, etc... Got to go riding and ended up in some serious mud and found that the front sprocket guard just completely clogged with mud... not to mention the rear wheel. I started to go down a steep drop-off and the bike wouldn't go I had to get on the throttle to go downhill it was so clogged with mud. New chain just looked like solid clay mud... glad I spent extra on an o-ring chain!

Anyone know of a source for the case saver in the US? I'd like to remove the front chain guard, but would hate to break a chain or suck a rock in there and break the case. I like the ones in the pictures earlier in this thread... Just wish they didn't have to ship from the other side of the world. I imagine that shipping would cost as much as the case saver! lol...

The ttr250 is a beast and was super fun to ride! Loved the tractor power in 1st/2nd gears. Pleasantly surprised...
Funny you mention the wheel bearing as my rear are at the verge of busting loose from the axle lol. Not that funny though because i was REALLY looking forward to going trail riding tomorrow Will have to wait until Monday until i can get the bearing now Love how quiet the o-ring chains are & swear by them for reliability!

Sounds like you had a good time from (TT). Always fun to get out & about! I am yet to christen my bike (stack) & dread the day as I'm usually not going so slow lol. It's usually those imbarasing moments when going slow that that happens though lol. Glad your enjoying your TT-R

Yeah, luckily I wasn't going too fast when I went down... Just losing the front end in the slippery stuff. I have new front wheel bearings to install, new tube, and a new-er front tire too. Weather forecast calls for 60 deg. this Sunday... Hope to go riding again. My buddy says he knows a place with MASSIVE hills! In Kansas? lol... I should be able to see them from my house if they are that big...

Too bad about your rear wheel bearings... You can get one more ride out of them? Maybe? Just sayin...

Really impressed with the TTR250... enjoying it BIGTIME. Smiling right now just thinking about going out riding again soon!

BTW - On the subject of engine breather tubes. I know some flattrack racers that swear they get a more "free revving" effect by enlarging the breather tubes. Less restriction when the piston goes up and down and displaces (both blows and sucks) air in the crankcase. Some guys just plug the connection to the air box, then use a larger diameter tube and aftermarket crankcase filter, like a K&N.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-Steel-Base-Crankcase-Vent-Filter-Breather-Chrome-/181046103494?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a27304dc6&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NOS-K-N-Crankcase-Breather-Kawasaki-Z1-KZ900-Honda-CB750-K0-K5-CB750F-/280742043637?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415d879ff5&vxp=mtr

I don't think there would be much performance gain unless you enlarged the connection to the head, the tube itself, plus a high flow filter filter.

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
I agree, only I read to one guy telling how the motorcycle run better without the tube number 25 connected to the air filter. But I do not agree with it and I find it very strange because usually this feature is necessary for a good carburation. Other problem for me can be if the pressure from the oil breather is not enough and the water with mud enters in the engine.
About the air filter, I use a twin air but now I´m curious if you could replace the piece number 9, one time I see a piece different with a better breather.

You can try what verdicaltwin wrote below if with want. I am happy with how Yamaha designed it. It is there to trap the unburn oil fumes & burn them so there is less pollution/emissions. It does not help the carby as the oil particles get into the motor. It may help to cool the bike down a little but does nothing other than that. I would be more worried about water shooting up the pipe or through the filter & dust clogging the pipe personally. Of course It's your choice what you do with yours.

VerdicalTwin wrote:
Yeah, luckily I wasn't going too fast when I went down... Just losing the front end in the slippery stuff. I have new front wheel bearings to install, new tube, and a new-er front tire too. Weather forecast calls for 60 deg. this Sunday... Hope to go riding again. My buddy says he knows a place with MASSIVE hills! In Kansas? lol... I should be able to see them from my house if they are that big...
Too bad about your rear wheel bearings... You can get one more ride out of them? Maybe? Just sayin...
Really impressed with the TTR250... enjoying it BIGTIME. Smiling right now just thinking about going out riding again soon!
BTW - On the subject of engine breather tubes. I know some flattrack racers that swear they get a more "free revving" effect by enlarging the breather tubes. Less restriction when the piston goes up and down and displaces (both blows and sucks) air in the crankcase. Some guys just plug the connection to the air box, then use a larger diameter tube and aftermarket crankcase filter, like a K&N.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-Steel-Base-Crankcase-Vent-Filter-Breather-Chrome-/181046103494?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a27304dc6&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NOS-K-N-Crankcase-Breather-Kawasaki-Z1-KZ900-Honda-CB750-K0-K5-CB750F-/280742043637?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415d879ff5&vxp=mtr
I don't think there would be much performance gain unless you enlarged the connection to the head, the tube itself, plus a high flow filter filter.

I know what you mean,mine impressed me every ride

I managed to whack out some bearings out of an old wheel without damaging them so i got to ride today aww aww aww I think i cursed myself with the whole christen (stack) that i said yesterday. I have now had my first stack. Not a real bad one but enough to bend my hangers hmm doh Not too badly though but enough to notice. I'll just straighten them a little (something your not supposed to do but oh well yawn ).

Went over some massive hills today but didn't get a lot of pics (damn it). Here are a few of the not so steep section though. You should see the road leading over the next hill from these pics. There was some really rough sections that were on the steep side of things too smile

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Just a quick update on the stack that i had yesterday. I thought i had bent the handlebars but all it was was the forks twisted a little inside the tripple tree. I just loosened it up & re-aligned the steering & all is good as new (except maybe the handgaurd a little scratched). Might get a new set of handgaurds but other than that i only hurt my image :)

verticaltwin · Member

Looks like a fun place to ride! Glad you got to get out and have some fun... and didn't do too much damage when you went down. The last picture you posted the bars looked bent backwards... but I realized that was a camera lens effect. lol... Nice front brake line. Mine is getting sticky and gooey in places, would like to get a nice braided one like that!

Doesn't look like I'm going riding today after all, so I'm tinkering on the bike a bit. My stock bars are slightly bent from the previous owner, so I'm going to put on some new bars that I had in the garage. A little more rise and not as much pullback. Might fit me better as I'm 6'1" and long-armed? Worth a try I guess.

Oh... and back on the subject. I was cleaning the big chunks of mud off my bike, getting it out of the front sprocket, lower chain guide, and cleaning the chain... and realized there is somewhat of a stock "case saver" underneath the cover. So I think I'll just leave the outer cover off and that should keep the mud from packing in quite so bad.

-- Edited by verticaltwin on Sunday 17th of February 2013 04:48:07 PM

-- Edited by verticaltwin on Sunday 17th of February 2013 04:50:47 PM

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nomada_Firefox wrote:
I´m very glad, I have taken my ttr and the special front sprocket case is very good, the amount of mud into it was very low and I cleaned it very fast, I feel that it is the first time where I do not see the chain after clean it with pieces of mud because the front sprocket was not cleaned at 100%. It was very difficult without remove the original case.

Sounds like Brian has another happy customer

I wish there was some method to stopping mud entering the front sprocket totally. Got bogged yesterday more than once & lets say it wasn't the easiest thing to get out.

Maybe i should just steer clear of quagmire mud lol wink

-- Edited by TT-R250M on Monday 18th of February 2013 02:19:58 PM

TT-R250M · Super Guru

verticaltwin wrote:
Looks like a fun place to ride! Glad you got to get out and have some fun... and didn't do too much damage when you went down. The last picture you posted the bars looked bent backwards... but I realized that was a camera lens effect. lol... Nice front brake line. Mine is getting sticky and gooey in places, would like to get a nice braided one like that!
Doesn't look like I'm going riding today after all, so I'm tinkering on the bike a bit. My stock bars are slightly bent from the previous owner, so I'm going to put on some new bars that I had in the garage. A little more rise and not as much pullback. Might fit me better as I'm 6'1" and long-armed? Worth a try I guess.
Oh... and back on the subject. I was cleaning the big chunks of mud off my bike, getting it out of the front sprocket, lower chain guide, and cleaning the chain... and realized there is somewhat of a stock "case saver" underneath the cover. So I think I'll just leave the outer cover off and that should keep the mud from packing in quite so bad.

-- Edited by verticaltwin on Sunday 17th of February 2013 04:48:07 PM

-- Edited by verticaltwin on Sunday 17th of February 2013 04:50:47 PM

I was glad i got to go riding aswell. Had been waiting days but things just kept coming up to do. Had to fix up a mates xt225 so that took a day away also. Yeah,pics were taken from my Contour action cam so they come out a bit weird with the wide screen view.

I'm glad i did'nt bend mine like i first thought & only a broken front brake lever, (now fixed)scratched front gaurd & handguard to replace now so not too bad. I will keep the scratched ones for offroad.

The subject finished ages ago but we just like dragging it on lol. It's not a problem as once the subject has been dealt with it's open to off topic general chat. I'm pretty sure Nomad firefox doesn't mind wink Just to be sure,your still bolting the case saver on after removing the outer chain gaurd right?

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

I´m very glad, I have taken my ttr and the special front sprocket case is very good, the amount of mud into it was very low and I cleaned it very fast, I feel that it is the first time where I do not see the chain after clean it with pieces of mud because the front sprocket was not cleaned at 100%. It was very difficult without remove the original case.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

I find impossible be unhappy with Brian´s store.

verticaltwin · Member

Sure are a lot of great looking parts in that TTR250 site... Unfortunately I'm one of the working poor and will have to be patient while saving up some money for a few necessary parts. Mainly a skid plate and bark busters at this time!

I did put the taller bars on my bike yesterday... seems like it will fitr me better. I just need to re-route the wire going to the clutch lever perch, as it is too tight when I pull the new bars back to where I like them.

verticaltwin · Member

Ok... so off topic stuff is ok? Just wondering if I'm the only one accidentally bumping the bike into neutral while out riding? Did it several times, only once did it catch in a tricky spot, but i was able to downshift and carry on. I assume its my big floppy size 11 Thor boots... but is there an aftermarket shift lever that is a bit longer?

Just thought I'd ask... seems like the MSR lever that was on my old Honda cr250 was longer than this ttr250 lever.

Thx, Kyle

TT-R250M · Super Guru

verticaltwin wrote:
Ok... so off topic stuff is ok? Just wondering if I'm the only one accidentally bumping the bike into neutral while out riding? Did it several times, only once did it catch in a tricky spot, but i was able to downshift and carry on. I assume its my big floppy size 11 Thor boots... but is there an aftermarket shift lever that is a bit longer?

Just thought I'd ask... seems like the MSR lever that was on my old Honda cr250 was longer than this ttr250 lever.

Thx, Kyle

Funny you mention this because it happens to me with size 10's. Most gear levers interchange from dirt bikes but it's the length that matters.

verticaltwin · Member

TT-R250M wrote:
verticaltwin wrote:
Ok... so off topic stuff is ok? Just wondering if I'm the only one accidentally bumping the bike into neutral while out riding? Did it several times, only once did it catch in a tricky spot, but i was able to downshift and carry on. I assume its my big floppy size 11 Thor boots... but is there an aftermarket shift lever that is a bit longer?

Just thought I'd ask... seems like the MSR lever that was on my old Honda cr250 was longer than this ttr250 lever.

Thx, Kyle
Funny you mention this because it happens to me with size 10's. Most gear levers interchange from dirt bikes but it's the length that matters.

I spent most of my time in 2nd gear... so I figured I must be bumping it down from 2nd gear in to neutral. But to tell you the truth, in the heat of riding its hard to say exactly what happened. Maybe I should try rotating it up a notch...

TT-R250M · Super Guru

verticaltwin wrote:
TT-R250M wrote:
verticaltwin wrote:
Ok... so off topic stuff is ok? Just wondering if I'm the only one accidentally bumping the bike into neutral while out riding? Did it several times, only once did it catch in a tricky spot, but i was able to downshift and carry on. I assume its my big floppy size 11 Thor boots... but is there an aftermarket shift lever that is a bit longer?

Just thought I'd ask... seems like the MSR lever that was on my old Honda cr250 was longer than this ttr250 lever.

Thx, Kyle
Funny you mention this because it happens to me with size 10's. Most gear levers interchange from dirt bikes but it's the length that matters.
I spent most of my time in 2nd gear... so I figured I must be bumping it down from 2nd gear in to neutral. But to tell you the truth, in the heat of riding its hard to say exactly what happened. Maybe I should try rotating it up a notch...

If it's happening through first & second gear it's likely that your clutch springs need replacing (or washers fitted to compensate). The other thing is maybe your shift shaft or selector fork has wear & causing this.

Rotating it up may help if it is your foot is doing the shifting to neutral but not if it's doing this by itself.

verticaltwin · Member

Hard to say... as it was a surprise each time it happened. I assumed it was my foot... and it probably was. We'll see... but it has never happened when messing around riding with regular boots or tennis shoes.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

Unfortunately I'm one of the working poor and will have to be patient while saving up some money for a few necessary parts. Mainly a skid plate and bark busters at this time!

You are not the unique. blankstare

I'm the only one accidentally bumping the bike into neutral while out riding? Did it several times, only once did it catch in a tricky spot, but i was able to downshift and carry on. I assume its my big floppy size 11 Thor boots... but is there an aftermarket shift lever that is a bit longer?

It happens to me sometimes, I feel that it is a problem from some engines, not exclusive from yamaha, the selector runs bad and sometimes you can select neutral. I have seen it even when you go at a higher gear. It was a very known problem from the old XT.

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

Hi, I promised you many time ago photos from my TTR with mud, I could not take them before because I could not use by the rain the motorcycle. Now I have them, this is from 15 days ago. I have not a image from my last ride because I broke a knee blankstare but I fortunately I´m better than other times and I will be fixed at few time. I had the new front sproket case saver when I took the photo. It is very good, even with many mud.

About other things, I have not made nothing in the valves. At the end the amount of oil consumed is not too big, I have been checking this. The main problem was the lost of oil by several seals (front sprocket seal and oil filter seals) but now all these problems were fixed.

Paul13 · Veteran Member

TTRfan wrote:
Nomada_Firefox wrote:
I have the chain guard fitted but you are wrong about what will happen with it, the mud will continue entering it and it will be worse. I have removed it by this reason.
Just to be sure that we are talking about the same part, I have included a pic of my chain guard below. It stops a lot of mud and stones falling on the chain and being carried around the front sprocket. Like many other owners, I discarded it to make chain cleaning, inspection and lubing easier but, since refitting it, the life of my chains has considerably lengthened.

Brian, do you sell a chain guard for the OE version, as could not see it on the webpage, I think its a good idea, after seeing mine covered in mud one month ago.

Thanks, for any help

Nomada_Firefox · Veteran Member

I have one and at my opinion it is worse, the mud entered in it and the chain was more full or dirt with it. In fact my chain cover is slightly twisted by the mud. But before three months, I will need repair it because I must make the ITV to my motorcycle. An ITV is a official revision from the goverment, it is necessary at all the vehicles registered.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Paul13 wrote:
Brian, do you sell a chain guard for the OE version, as could not see it on the webpage, I think its a good idea, after seeing mine covered in mud one month ago.
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Sorry Paul - haven't seen an OE chain guard for ages
Brian