Hi, I would like know if anybody have found a solution for fix all the mud entering the front sprocket cover. My TTR250 has not digital speedometer and for me, it is the worse bad feature from the TTR. The mud enter around the front sprocket and it can break the chain easily, it has happened to me two times, specially when it has drying.
Probably somebody thinks the solution as do not put the cover but I do not see it as a great solution because if the chain breaks........it can break other engine parts.
All TTRs are prone to mud clogging behind the sprocket, especially if it's left to harden and accumulate.
The cover can be discarded to alleviate the clogging problem. To protect the area in case of possible chain breaks a case saver protector can be fitted:-
The Case Saver is engineered to help prevent the case from getting damaged in the event of chain derailment. It is made in the USA by Independent Machining LLC from 6061 billet aluminium, and has a brushed natural finish. It is embossed with the TT-R logo and looks very nice indeed!
Umm, thanks by the answer, I did see how different this is this case saver from the default aluminium piece from my TTR. Interesting.
The standard case saver is quite a bit thinner compare to the after-market version.
We are out of stock of the after-market ones at the moment but I attach a pic of a case saver I just took off a TTR. It was corroded in at the top lug and the aluminium sort of "shredded" as I prised it out. Not sure I would have trusted it to save my cases if a chain had broken - a rare occurrence I know.
Do you have the chain guard fitted, the guard will stop a lot of mud and dirt falling onto the chain from the rear wheel
I don't have one and a lot of dirt falls on my chain
but I have mostly hard ground and rock to ride on so it's not a problem
Brian says that it reduces chain and sprocket wear, makes sense, I should get one as well
Steve
I don't have the mounting points because i have the US swingarm. (wonder if it's still legal? ..must be :). I don't like those dumb looking things anyways lolz Not knocking them for anyone who does though
...............................
Each to their own.
Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
The worse is not the mud, the worse is the mod with pieces of rock. If you use a chain with a clip, it can be a problem.
Other question would be if the mud wore the seal from the front sprocket.
Other question is the price, the three wheel bearing rear are not normal as at other motorcicles, they are pieces made with car design, they are harder but they are expensive. You can easily pay 100€ by them, I payed 57€ + the seals thanks to one discount. About the wheel spacers, I have bought few days ago them to totallyttrs but I have not mounted them at a first place, I have repaired my old wheel spacers and I have mount a smaller seal, it is the cheap solution, only for people which they can work with metal.
I'm not sure what you mean by the bold section. It does'nt make sense Maybe it's just me though.
Other question is the price, the three wheel bearing rear are not normal as at other motorcicles, they are pieces made with car design, they are harder but they are expensive. You can easily pay 100€ by them, I payed 57€ + the seals thanks to one discount.
I pay AU $6.00 for wheel bearing seals & $7.00 for bearings SKF or Timken/Koyo is a little more.
I'm not knocking your opinion but i am finding it hard to put right with reason? Maybe you could find a direct bearing company? (if you have'nt already?) It saves me about $10.00-$20.00 a bearing depending on which type.
Also if you seriously have had three chain breaks i would be buying better qaulity 0-ring chains or replace them more often. (or not ride with your front wheel pointing at the sky as much :)
Of course it's up to you what you do with your bike & it won't effect me.
Hope you don't think i'm just being rude as i'm only trying to help & find reason in your logic.
..........................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 19th of January 2013 12:09:13 PM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
Just to be sure that we are talking about the same part, I have included a pic of my chain guard below. It stops a lot of mud and stones falling on the chain and being carried around the front sprocket. Like many other owners, I discarded it to make chain cleaning, inspection and lubing easier but, since refitting it, the life of my chains has considerably lengthened.
We are speaking from the same part and I disagree, with this part the mud enter the chain guard and it is sanding the chain more than if you remove it and at least at my opinion it does not prevent the mud into the front sprocket because it does not cover all the chain. Of course there is another problem, if you use a rear sprocket from 52 teeth, the space between the chain guard and the rear sprocket will be smaller.
About the bold words, sorry but I´m not english. I was speaking about the wear from the seal which you can find on the front sprocket.
WOWSERS THAT'S ALOT I pay AU $6.00 for wheel bearing seals & $7.00 for bearings SKF or Timken/Koyo is a little more.
I have not told about the seals. I have not payed more of 4€ by them. I do not think that you can pay $7 by the bearings because even the cheaper from allballs are more expensive.I was speaking about the wheel bearing. They are not the same.
If you do not know what is a bearing......
Also if you seriously have had three chain breaks i would be buying better qaulity 0-ring chains or replace them more often.
The first time was with non-o-ring chaing and it was when I discovered the problem with the mud, probably it was two years after I bought the motorcicle, never before I knew about it. The second was by a bad chain and the third.........the front sprocket was full of mud and it was dry. Of course there is one thing which I see probably you do not use. The chain is united by a clip, this piece usually is the weaker part from all the chain, a better chain will not resolve the problem. Now probably you think because I use a clip, if I do not use it and the chain breaks......it would be a big problem when I´m far from home into a forest.
This is a chain clip.
Hope you don't think i'm just being rude as i'm only trying to help & find reason in your logic.
No problem, english always is rude.;) Barra8, I´m very curious about your avatar, is it your ttr? it looks strange or different, perhaps it is the size from the image but is there a photo from it?
-- Edited by Nomada_Firefox on Saturday 19th of January 2013 03:40:56 PM
Do you have the chain guard fitted, the guard will stop a lot of mud and dirt falling onto the chain from the rear wheel
I don't have one and a lot of dirt falls on my chain
but I have mostly hard ground and rock to ride on so it's not a problem
Brian says that it reduces chain and sprocket wear, makes sense, I should get one as well
When I bought my bike second hand the countershaft sprocket area was packed full of mud and sand
Steve
I have the chain guard fitted but you are wrong about what will happen with it, the mud will continue entering it and it will be worse. I have removed it by this reason.
About this.
My original piece of aluminium broke with the past of the time and three breaks of chain. The worse is not the mud, the worse is the mod with pieces of rock. If you use a chain with a clip, it can be a problem. Other question would be if the mud wore the seal from the front sprocket. I have changed it one time, it was not a problem, I found one from SKF by no more of 3€. The seals and wheel bearing can be found easily made by other brands. Other question is the price, the three wheel bearing rear are not normal as at other motorcicles, they are pieces made with car design, they are harder but they are expensive. You can easily pay 100€ by them, I payed 57€ + the seals thanks to one discount. About the wheel spacers, I have bought few days ago them to totallyttrs but I have not mounted them at a first place, I have repaired my old wheel spacers and I have mount a smaller seal, it is the cheap solution, only for people which they can work with metal.
I have the chain guard fitted but you are wrong about what will happen with it, the mud will continue entering it and it will be worse. I have removed it by this reason.
Just to be sure that we are talking about the same part, I have included a pic of my chain guard below. It stops a lot of mud and stones falling on the chain and being carried around the front sprocket. Like many other owners, I discarded it to make chain cleaning, inspection and lubing easier but, since refitting it, the life of my chains has considerably lengthened.
Barra8, I´m very curious about your avatar, is it your ttr? it looks strange or different, perhaps it is the size from the image but is there a photo from it?
About the avatar......That is my bike. You can see more pics & stuff in my re-build thread here
I pay $7.00- $9.00 for wheel bearings & $6.00 for seals (cheap seals are about $4.00). Not sure why they are so expensive for you? Maybe you should check out ebay.. Genuine here, All balls here & here . Failing that find a suitable bearing supplier that sells these cheaper.
Also instead of using chains with a clip i use the press fit type & carry a spare link for those side of the road jobs. Not sure what you meant but maybe you mean Brian's case savers?? Never had any drama with case savers myself but i change my chain regually.
By the way.....I did have a chain break on the side of the road once(i was lazy with changing chains). I did not have a spare clip so reverted to the cave man ways &........................I broke a link, put the broken link back in with the joiner & used two rocks (one either side) to press fit it together. Not a fun job but worked a treat to get me home.
You still will need the usual tools like screwdriver ect. but you should have these on hand if adventuring off into the woods.
................................................
I am not trying to lecture you or change your way of thinking but i just can't understand your way.
Are you trying to say to NOT buy or use the *case saver or just Brian's? I would love one of Brian's myself but that's me.
As i have said i hope you don't think i'm trying to be rude as i'm merely trying to help without confusing things.
...........................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 20th of January 2013 11:44:35 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
This question about the price has a easy explanation, you live probably at EEUU, I live at spain, europe, here all products like these add a tax. Second usually buy stuff by ebay at EEUU when you live at spain is a bad idea, very bad because you have big chance from finish your buy paying the tax added on the customs house.
Of course we can not ignore how many cost send a bearing from EEUU to Spain, perhaps even more than all the bearing.......many times people do not count it and they are not telling things as they are really. ;)
But this price from the ebay link is not very different to my price, we are speaking from 13.95 per bearing, the rear wheel has 3 of these and the seals are not more expensive. Probably you did not understand me at first place because I have written the price for normal people without a discount.
Very expensive can be the price from the bearing at a yamaha store at spain, 24.91 € + IVA=a few more of 32€.
At the end, my price is not bad.
Also instead of using chains with a clip i use the press fit type & carry a spare link for those side of the road jobs
I suppose that it is a stapled from the chain, here this system is only used for road motorcicles, very few people use it at out the road because you need the tool and it is slower. I prefer carry one or two clips, even a piece of chain.
Not sure what you meant but maybe you mean Brian's case savers?
Perhaps I´m not right but probably we live at a very different terrain, my country is so green as Scotland, very wet, with many mountains, many forest and a lot of mud, when I speak from mud, I´m speaking from cross sites where the motorcicle is cover by the mud to the half. Many people think that all spain is very dry as a desert but it is not true, all the north is very wet and here rain as at UK, the unique difference is the temperature, here it is higher, at least near the coast, now it is 6º and few moments ago was hailing.
At the end, for me the TTR is not very good for the mud, it is very good swimming, I have cross deep puddles without problems when other motorcicles could not make it. But this motorcicle takes a lot of mud and it is more difficult from clean.
The next day that I will use the motorcicle into the mud, I will take a photo for you, you will be surprised.;)
Very beautiful your TTR. I have it, a simple TTR bought at 2005 by me with a old D&D graphics pack. I need replace or restore some the graphics.
Well i am glad that i have cleared up a few missunderstandings. I kinda figured that your terrain is REALLY muddy & why i did'nt mention the chain gaurd. That is very understandable & some of the reason why i don't like them as cleaning is a ''Biarch''.
The price of bearings i kinda figured would vary from country to country & i did have in mind that you ''may'' have customs tax ect. I was'nt sure as we don't here. I just noticed how much you were paying & thought maybe what i wrote may help. Obvoiusly it did'nt but worth a try
Brian's case saver on the other hand i cannot.......The chain does NOT sit on or against the case saver if it's anything like the OEM one. It merely sits there looking good (kinda but you can't see it) until you do have a chain break & then it serves it's purpose. To say it is worse for chain clips does not seem right to me.
The press fit type chains are a bit of a prick to fit but NO special tools is needed. To fit this profesionally yes but......All i do is hold a flat piece of steel one one side of it. The other i use a large punch to flatten the joiner pins out....Job done. I have never had a problem with this method & when it did brake it broke in a different spot than the spot i joined. The reason was the chain was too old.
I do believe your thoery about the mud as it had been a problem for me on my old XL185 (different bike...same issue)
Thanks for your kind words about my bike,it is appreciated.
I really enjoyed the pics of your bike....it looks awesome as. Just one thing though.....The size of your pics is too large for the screen. This makes the pic go out of the page & then we have to use the bottom scroll to scroll across. This is very annoying. If you can......go to edit.... click on the edge of your pics. An arrow like this comes up <=>. then make the pics smaller. Cheers.
Can't wait to see your TTR all muddy (& inside the screen :)
......................................
Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
The press fit type chains are a bit of a prick to fit but NO special tools is needed. To fit this profesionally yes but......All i do is hold a flat piece of steel one one side of it. The other i use a large punch to flatten the joiner pins out....Job done.
This in my country would not be a work very well done. :) Usually they are used with some like this
With this you can cut the chain and join again it. But at least for me it is expensive, I´m not rich.
Cubber has published a good shot about the mud and the chain guard with one exception, perhaps you did not discover it, the mud enter the chain guard and it need be removed and cleaned. In fact the mud and the fat are into it.
Just thought i'd say to Nomada_Firefox .......
I am not sure why your climate would be any worse than Tropical Far North Queensland?? Ever heard of tropical cyclones??? It's a common occurance here,sometimes causing it to be wet more than 6mths of the year. ....& Trust me the way i join the chain would work underwater with rocks in it
I already mentioned that the mud gets in the CHAIN GAURD. The case saver on the other hand is easy to clean......only a high pressure hose or gernie is needed (being carefull of the magneto wires. The chain gaurd is a ''self cleaning'' type & doe'snt require alot of cleaning anywayz.
I did'nt reply just to be a smartarse only to find reason in your thoughts & help. Still trying.
-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 20th of January 2013 12:35:13 PM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
The press fit type chains are a bit of a prick to fit but NO special tools is needed. To fit this profesionally yes but......All i do is hold a flat piece of steel one one side of it. The other i use a large punch to flatten the joiner pins out....Job done.
This in my country would not be a work very well done. :) Usually they are used with some like this
With this you can cut the chain and join again it. But at least for me it is expensive, I´m not rich.
Cubber has published a good shot about the mud and the chain guard with one exception, perhaps you did not discover it, the mud enter the chain guard and it need be removed and cleaned. In fact the mud and the fat are into it. Other point for me was the rear sprocket, I use a 14-52 and when the chain guard is old, the chain abrades the chain guard. At this point I removed the chain guard by one main reason, here all vehicles are revised with the past of the time, for my TTR, each two years and I need all the original pieces for pass the check, by this reason I removed the past year the chain guard and because it was breaking with the mud.
Personally at this moment I like this.
I´m thinking to make one.............at steel. It should not be too difficult, I have made the original at aluminium but it is difficult to find good aluminium with this size, it is weak.
The size of your pics is too large for the screen
I have not problems..........in fact they are limited to 1000 pixels.
Nomada_Firefox wrote:Barra8, I´m very curious about your avatar, is it your ttr? it looks strange or different, perhaps it is the size from the image but is there a photo from it?
Barra has used a very wide angle camera, probably his "Contour Helmet Camera" I would guess
You can tell by all the background objects, the world is all curved downwards, typical of a wide angle lens.
By the way, does anyone have a spare chain guard they don't want ??
Cheers All
__________________
2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.
Nomada_Firefox wrote:Barra8, I´m very curious about your avatar, is it your ttr? it looks strange or different, perhaps it is the size from the image but is there a photo from it?
Barra has used a very wide angle camera, probably his "Contour Helmet Camera" I would guess
You can tell by all the background objects, the world is all curved downwards, typical of a wide angle lens.
By the way, does anyone have a spare chain guard they don't want ??
Cheers All
Your just too smart for your own good with these things Steve It was my contour The angle of the ground does not help but it does make things bubble like if up close.
............................................
If i had a chain gaurd Steve, it would be yours free of charge. Notice i took the 250 sticker off now though...Kinda happy how it is now. Love the stickers ....Thanks heaps (again)
Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
any worse than Tropical Far North Queensland?? Ever heard of tropical cyclones???
At zones from the world where you can find tropical cyclones, only rain more at some special dates, here rains equal at summer than at winter or other date. Of course it is a temperate climate but there are a lot of mud.
The case saver on the other hand is easy to clean......only a high pressure hose or gernie is needed (being carefull of the magneto wires. The chain gaurd is a ''self cleaning'' type & doe'snt require alot of cleaning anywayz.
Well this is your opinion, at my more of 7 years with my TTR, if some I have learn, it is how difficult from clean is this motorcicle when I compare it with a more pure offroad motorcicle, specially the engine cover from CRD does not help. Other bad point is the rear suspension, it takes all the mud from the road. Other problem from the motorcicle and probably it is a problem shared with the WR would be the width, when you cross by close sites, it is not easier.
Ah now remembering the WR250R has the same problem with the mud and the front sprocket.
And speaking from other things repaired from the motorcicle, I repaired the starter engine with pieces from a car´s starter engine. If you have had problems with it, you will know what I have changed at it by nothing of money.
any worse than Tropical Far North Queensland?? Ever heard of tropical cyclones???
At zones from the world where you can find tropical cyclones, only rain more at some special dates, here rains equal at summer than at winter or other date. Of course it is a temperate climate but there are a lot of mud.
The case saver on the other hand is easy to clean......only a high pressure hose or gernie is needed (being carefull of the magneto wires. The chain gaurd is a ''self cleaning'' type & doe'snt require alot of cleaning anywayz.
Well this is your opinion, at my more of 7 years with my TTR, if some I have learn, it is how difficult from clean is this motorcicle when I compare it with a more pure offroad motorcicle, specially the engine cover from CRD does not help. Other bad point is the rear suspension, it takes all the mud from the road. Other problem from the motorcicle and probably it is a problem shared with the WR would be the width, when you cross by close sites, it is not easier.
Ah now remembering the WR250R has the same problem with the mud and the front sprocket.
And speaking from other things repaired from the motorcicle, I repaired the starter engine with pieces from a car´s starter engine. If you have had problems with it, you will know what I have changed at it by nothing of money.
So you are trying to say that i know nothing about mud because it's only wet here 4-6mths a year....how do you figure??
I think we will just have to agree to disagree on this one because we aint getting anywhere.
It's fine that you have a different opinion & i'm cool with that. If you look above you will find more people with a different opinion aswell so that's how it goes i guess. Everyone is open to an opinion & why we can all post.
As i have said...I'm not trying to make your opinion any less important just understand yours. I have got your point so that's all i wanted.
.......................
Cheers,
Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
I have not told that you do not know about the mud. But I can tell you one thing, if I tried to make a photo from my ttr at a place like your avatar photo, I should go 200 km far in the south and only in the summer. But I feel that both we do not know where the other lives.;)
Now returning to interesting stuff from TTR, when do you need to repair the valves at a TTR? my TTR has a few more of 23000 km, it runs well and it does not consume oil. I change the oil each year. The last time I used a castrol gps 15w40, I bought 4 liters with a friend, it was cheaper. He has a ktm exc 400 from 2001 (very good motorcicle even if it is older) and this oil was good for both.
About other things, if you want know, I replaced the original exhaust by a CRD absolute power. I do not know at EEUU but here the original exhaust is a ****. It is weighty and it has a bad sound. Other features are the air filter, usually I use twin air filters with oil. But I needed replace the foam under the seat, the original was very bad and the mud and all the **** from the world entered to the air filter.
Of course I like my TTR, I do not know if it is very resistant or it is because I care it but when I compare with other motorciles, I see how weaker they are.
I have not told that you do not know about the mud. But I can tell you one thing, if I tried to make a photo from my ttr at a place like your avatar photo, I should go 200 km far in the south and only in the summer. But I feel that both we do not know where the other lives.;)
Now returning to interesting stuff from TTR, when do you need to repair the valves at a TTR? my TTR has a few more of 23000 km, it runs well and it does not consume oil. I change the oil each year. The last time I used a castrol gps 15w40, I bought 4 liters with a friend, it was cheaper. He has a ktm exc 400 from 2001 (very good motorcicle even if it is older) and this oil was good for both.
About other things, if you want know, I replaced the original exhaust by a CRD absolute power. I do not know at EEUU but here the original exhaust is a ****. It is weighty and it has a bad sound. Other features are the air filter, usually I use twin air filters with oil. But I needed replace the foam under the seat, the original was very bad and the mud and all the **** from the world entered to the air filter.
Of course I like my TTR, I do not know if it is very resistant or it is because I care it but when I compare with other motorciles, I see how weaker they are.
It is the worst time of the year right now. My profile pic may not look green but i'll take a pic in a few days to show you. It is raining as i write this. Rained so much yesterday that it was'nt the best for riding so i gave it a miss. Bout to go now,bring on the mud!
The valves would usualy have a life span of roughly two timing chains before they need reseating.. Of course it would depend on the oil used,maintenence,fuel,conditions & riding style....No yours won't need doing. You will know it's time to do valves when you hear a bit more pinging in them. Also the compression becomes low,bad backfires (not just carby popping),it runs lean,gets hot at the header pipe or hard starting. Usually all these combined.
Castrol Activ 10W/50 is the oil that i use & works great! It will depend on tempreture as to whether or not it is suitable for you though. The main thing to remember is to only use a single grade oil as multi-grade will ruin the clutch plates!
I fiited an FMF 4Q & the note is supurb! Also i have #150 main + #52.5 pilot & it goes 10x from standard.
The reason i bought a TT-R250 is because they outlast anything i have come across & are the most reliable....& yes i love my TT-R250.
It's great seeing other people's opinions even if i don't believe in them myself.
I have not told that you do not know about the mud. But I can tell you one thing, if I tried to make a photo from my ttr at a place like your avatar photo, I should go 200 km far in the south and only in the summer. But I feel that both we do not know where the other lives.;)
Okay just to show you how much mud there is over here here is a few pics.
The mud as you can see is the worst kind. Red bulldust that sticks like glue. This is after 6mths no rain & one day of rain yesterday (still raining today on & off)
This is my mate stuck (would say in the mud but it's on a road) after following me...
The problem.....
Too much mud. At this stage my bike was still fine....
Alot of mud on my boots though from helping my mate....
I know the serow is a different bike but the TT-R is much better in mud. Will be comparing more bikes when i can.
This is one of both bikes together...
This was a little further on after spending quite some time getting the mud out from the xt serow.
My bike .....
It did'nt take much getting out as it has plenty of room & all that was needed was a push backwards & got the rest out....Easy.
The serow on the other hand was stuck totally again
Okay now chains....
This was my chain....
Camera getting very wet & muddy by this stage. As you can see there is alot of mud in the chain.
Now the serow with the chain gaurd....
Still clean (enough).
We had to go back at this stage as there was too much mud for the xt & mine was getting a little bit tired of this treatment (or more like i was ")
Now an action shot of me getting the mud off the easy way :)
................................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Monday 21st of January 2013 10:07:45 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
I consider this to be a challenge so my bro' and I are off out for a couple of hours this morning to see if we can find some "proper" Devon mud to show you
Brian
Yaahooohheeeee I was hoping someone would take up the challenge
Can't wait to see what colour -spelt Austalian/ the devon mud is.....I'm guessing *reddish black????
I love seeing bikes with mud on them it
..............................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Monday 21st of January 2013 11:14:32 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
I consider this to be a challenge so my bro' and I are off out for a couple of hours this morning to see if we can find some "proper" Devon mud to show you
Brian
Please remember to get lots of pics .... & don't forget your chain * gaurd as i'm interested if it makes it worse.-The mud build up that is.
I think it may help alot though but thats my guess from past experiences. Only harder to clean.
.........................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Monday 21st of January 2013 10:53:02 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
I consider this to be a challenge so my bro' and I are off out for a couple of hours this morning to see if we can find some "proper" Devon mud to show you
Very similar the last photos to my amount of mud and at this you can understand because the chain guard does not protect everything and probably it breaks if you use it. If it is a challenge, it would be about use the chain guard....tomorrow late, I will show you what happen to one chain guard with 7 years old and bending by the mud.;)
This type of suspension is really hard but it is a **** because this is the most difficult from clean.
The reason i bought a TT-R250 is because they outlast anything i have come across & are the most reliable....& yes i love my TT-R250.
This is the same reason because I bought it, I´m not rich and I could not pay the maintenance from a ktm. Specially because not allways I have used it for ride into the mud, sometimes, specially at summer, I put tyres more for the road and the TTR is perfect for it.
Very similar the last photos to my amount of mud and at this you can understand because the chain guard does not protect everything and probably it breaks if you use it. If it is a challenge, it would be about use the chain guard....tomorrow late, I will show you what happen to one chain guard with 7 years old and bending by the mud.;)
This type of suspension is really hard but it is a **** because this is the most difficult from clean.
The reason i bought a TT-R250 is because they outlast anything i have come across & are the most reliable....& yes i love my TT-R250.
This is the same reason because I bought it, I´m not rich and I could not pay the maintenance from a ktm. Specially because not allways I have used it for ride into the mud, sometimes, specially at summer, I put tyres more for the road and the TTR is perfect for it.
I think we are on the same level now. The reason i do not like the plastic chain gaurd is that it is flimsy & can break if your not carefull. My old one broke where it mounts from the mud collecting up like you see in the pics.
The chain obviously gets protected though from the mud.
It is just a ****%%$#$# as you say to clean the mud out.
I just think that ''maybe'' it takes longer to build up with the chain gaurd fitted but i could be wrong about this.
..................................
Can't wait to see your bike all muddy
..............................
Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
Holy ****, now that's mud, I'll never complain about the lame arsed excuse I have for mud again
Interesting to see how well the chain guard protected the chain
Steve
I think that is one vote for me
Honestly i did'nt have to try & did not even find a puddle. Except the creek where i rode my bike in until it was up to the bottom of the airbox to wash the mud off before it dried
It has been raining all day today with only a break here & there. It will be interesting to see the turn out when my boots are dry enough
.................................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 22nd of January 2013 09:46:29 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
If you have problems with boots and water, I recomend you it. The socks do not let cross the water. http://www.sealskinz.com/
Thanks for the link but i'm not sure it will help when i ride into the creek not thinking about my boots hahahaha Unless those socks have snorkels May buy some so my feet stay a little dry though.
Man the rain never stops when it starts here....Rain all day.....still raining
.................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 22nd of January 2013 04:16:42 PM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
This is the creek that you see me riding through two days ago. Took this pic yesterday,i actually got through today just lol the water came up to the fuel tank It has come down slightly now though.
Two days ago.....
After one day of rain...
It is still raining athough it does'nt seem to be filling the creek any more (slowed down). There has been floods not far from us on the coast. We never get floods here becuase we are up in the mountains luckily enough.
.......................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 24th of January 2013 08:27:55 AM
I have some news for show you, I have not used too much the ttr because it is raining but I have used these days for paint the motorcycle, it is not finished because I need a few graphics more but by the moment it looks like it.
About the mud, probably the next time I have added the new front sprocket cases saver, I bought one to totallyttr because they had new stock the past week and even if I load it with a lot of mud, it will look different, at least I will test the stuff.