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The TTR250 FAQ web pages -> TTR250 -> Projects and restorations -> 2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild nearly finished''
Post Info TOPIC: 2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild nearly finished''
barra8


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1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Rebuild started''
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IF ANYONE IS WONDERING WHY I HAVE NOT UPDATED THE WIRING SECTION IT IS BECAUSE I DO NOT HAVE THE CORRECT BATTERY OR TERMINALS(WAITING FOR THEM IN MAIL)

Now that all that shouting is done i'll turn the caps lock off wink

This is how i removed the steering bearing cups...

First thing to do is to wrap a rag around the frame to protect it like so...

Now i make the tool to do the job...

First i grind the end of of the screwdriver until it's about 2-3mm thick (too thick to use as a screwdriver)..

Next i ground both edges (you can see this from the pic above....

While doing this i was heating it up with the grinder & quickly putting it into water to soften the steel.

Now i bent the screwdriver enough so it caught onto the bearing race cup...

Okay time to get those bearing race cups out...

You can see from this pic how the bend helps to ''catch'' the bearing race...

Note: There is no bearing race cup in the frame head, this pic is for a visual only.

Notice the bottom of the frame steering head how it has a rag to protect the bearing race. To do this just stab a hole through the rag you have tied around the frame.

If you do not follow the intructions above it will be nearly impossible to get the top bearing cup out without the correct ''special'' tool.

I will be uploading more on the steering in this section when i have the triple tree to install bearings onto. I have two methods but i think i'll stick with what has worked in the past without fail. I had already sprayed a lower triple tree but when installing the bearing it got a nick on the side of the bearing which rendered the bearing useless no I do'nt really want to get the stanley out to scrape the paint back to bare metal ''again'' so i just bought another triple tree assembly.no

 .......................................................................................................

Edited: below

I recieved the bearings & triple grip in the mail today. I had the lower bearing installed for me this time to save me the trouble of welding my ''special tool'' for this. I will update this at a later date but i just want to get my bike on the road for now.

 

When installing the bearing races into the frame head, care must be taken not to scratch/damage the bearing races.

First freeze the bearing races/cups in the freezer to make it easier to install them....

I used a block of hard wood to get the top one in far enough so that when using the ''old'' bearing race as a guide,the race you are installing does not slip out. When far enough in use the ''old'' bearing race to guide it home....MAKING SURE THAT THE RACE IS ALL THE WAY IN PROPERLY.

  • You can use a copper hammer (if you have one ) to start it off although the old race is needed to safely guide it the last bit.

Note: You can tell when the race is installed properly as it hits home & the hammer starts bouncing off the race easily (& making a metal to metal sound).

The top bearing sits just below flush with the frame head.

This is the top bearing race/cup installed correctly below...

Important: Do not install the bearing race (cup) the wrong way around. I did this once ( a long time ago) with wheel bearing & it was a battle to get it out & replace it again..biggrin funny now...not at the time biggrin

 

 

 

For the lower bearing all i did was lean it back (against the back tubes) so it was easy to install the lower bearing cup.

Again i used the peice of hard wood to tap it into place...then using the ''old'' bearing race/cup tapped it home.

The lower one goes in alot further than the top bearing race/cup & sits a few mm in.

This is the lower bearing race installed...

This is my triple tree with lower bearing installed...

The grease i am reccommended to use (not wheel bearing grease) is Morey's Bigfoot EP 2 Grease. It is a waterproof lithium  based high temp grease that exeeds Tiikens standards by 75 pounds load test wink

 Edited: To install the lower triple tree...

First grease like the pic below remembering to work the grease into the bearings.

Then install the lower triple tree clamp & place the top bearing in.

Place the dust seal over that making sure that the rubber surface goes against the frame & seats properly.

Install flat washer.

Now install the large metal cover over that.

Install small flat rubber coated (metal) washer.

Then install a nut  (fingertight) to hold the lower triple tree up.

Then the large ''thick'' rubber dampening washer goes on.

Then the other nut (same as the first).

Fit the locking tab insuring it sits in the grooves on the nuts & tighten loosely.

You can now give it a little ''nip up'' while checking up & down play if you like but don't overtighten or you will ruin the bearings. Tighten until all play is gone.

Fit top triple tree clamp.

Install nut fingertight.

Note: If you are confident that you have the right adjustment you can now tighten it.

........................................................................

Now....i like to (but not nessasary if its right)...

Make sure that the steering is not too tight or loose by fitting the handlebars. If they move slowly (not too slow-not too fast) to one side when forks are elevated  this is correct.

If they do not move by themselves on a slight angle loosen it until they do.

Just make sure they don't ''whoosh'' to the side too fast. smile

Once the correct steering adjustment is found ( with no play) tighten the top triple clamp nut.

 

 

.................

Jarrah.

 

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Monday 24th of December 2012 09:25:54 AM

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barra8


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I tried to top coat my swingarm after getting it back from the ''graphics joint'' (DON'T ASK ABOUT KIT!!)...& after not getting the result that i wanted with them ie. ''NO KIT!!'' i had more great results (sarcastically). The paint i had used earlier ie. ''wheel paint'' reacted with my top coat once again no I guess this happens when using spray can (rattle)paints disbeliefdisbeliefdisbelief& it was an easy fix.hmmblankstaresmilebiggrin All i did was sand back nearly to the primer underneath & re-sprayed my ''awesome'' primer again. Result after sanding back smooth...

 

 

Still have to prep it with wax & grease remover &  will be painting very soon.

This time i will be using a duplicolor enamel with hardner out of a paint can,which should give alot better result.

Stay tuned.wink

.......................

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Wednesday 28th of November 2012 02:48:37 AM

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barra8


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First coat went on really nice

 

It did'nt react this time bleh I will be spraying the final coat shortly (45mins).

Jarrah.



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barra8


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I have been having alot of trouble with the swingarm. Last two days i had been waitn for my duplicolor paint to dry....it did'nt! . Was over waiting around so i got the thinners out (messy job) and  used my awesome primer again!  I decided to stick with the best paint.....  Dupont!

The reason i went with the duplicolor is because i was unsure whether my dupont paint was the right color. Turns out Machine Silver is perfect.

I was very impressed with the end result & think it came out better than factory...

It has sparkles in it too although it needs to be in the sun to see this properly.

......................

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 2nd of December 2012 06:54:33 AM

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barra8


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I had already done the forks but the paint cracked where the mounts are from the (sh$tty spray can ) paint. Was'nt happy no This time i decided to rub that (cr@p) off & use the proper dupont paint. The results speak for itself! I must emphesize on using the correct paint for the job. Saves time & money in the end.wink... This is my  forks primer coated with my UPOL primer (top stuff )...

Now first coat with Dupont Machine Silver....

Next coat goes on in 10 mins  (30mins after first coat)... Then clear coat 30mins after that...Stay tuned wink

...................

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 2nd of December 2012 06:49:30 AM

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barra8


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I did end up finishing the forks although a second clear coat was needed for these...

Still waiting on the triple tree clamps so i can spray the bottom one once the bearing is installed. Should be here by the end of the week

I have a bit of work to do if i'm going to beat christmas doh

Stay tuned wink

...........

Jarrah.

 



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barra8


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The motor was torqued to spec so as to make things easier. Then the brake/footrest components was installed...

At this stage i have still not torqued the oil feed pipe up as i need to either anneal the copper washers or buy new ones. Don't have gas at this time so this will be done later.

Edited: I ended up using the stove to anneal the washers. Once hot drop in water....(using pliers ''not your fingers :)

Once cool i rub the burrs of by rubbing on 1200-2000 grit sandpaper after laying the sandpaper on a flat surface.

Will be bolting more on as i go...Stay tuned wink

..........................

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Monday 24th of December 2012 05:09:17 PM

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barra8


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The horn was bolted on....In this case i bought a new ''aftermarket'' one. I will still have to test the wires as there is no + or - sign on the aftermarket horn but it should'nt matter either way...

Still alot more to come but am waiting on my triple tree as installing the rear shocky & swingarm will make installing the steering bearing cups into the frame head ''alot'' harder.

....................

Jarrah.


 



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 4th of December 2012 03:58:19 AM

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TTRfan


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barra8 wrote:

 

Still alot more to come but am waiting on my triple tree 

Happening quickly now Jarrah! Very nicely photographed and documented.

What's the issue with the triple tree? You had it all nicely painted a while back confuse

Brian 



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barra8


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TTRfan wrote:
barra8 wrote:

 

Still alot more to come but am waiting on my triple tree 

Happening quickly now Jarrah! Very nicely photographed and documented.

What's the issue with the triple tree? You had it all nicely painted a while back confuse

Brian 

 When removing the bearing it got scratched...To top it off when i installed the lower bearing it got a small nick on the bearing cage...rendering the bearing useless no I should have done this the correct way but impatience to make the tool got the better of me disbelief

...............................

Jarrah.



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barra8


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The ashes & smoke did clear now but it is still burning strong...

Sun is still red...

But managed to get a nice clear coat on...

Once it cures (about a week) it will be ready for rebuilding.

Edited: Here is the link to the re-build.... Re-building a carburetor

...............

Jarrah.

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 8th of December 2012 11:54:09 PM

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barra8


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Woke up this morning with smoke everywhere....Thought the house may be on fire???confuseconfuseconfuse Went to the front door.............Holy smoke! doh There was a big fire across the road. It has made that much smoke that the sun is only just shining through & looks red. There is bits of floating burnt debris everywhere! All over the roof ect.. I will not be able to do any clear coating until this arvo (hopefully). I did manage to colour coat my newly acquired carby though. With any luck i will be clear coating it this arvo...ready for the rebuild.

Stay tuned..wink

.........

Jarrah



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Cubber


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You're not going to want to get it muddy when it's all done, Jarrah.

It is obviously a true labour of love.

I hope the recent fire doesn't delay your works drastically. Let me know if you want me to send you some of our rain to quench the fires - we've had (and still having) plenty.

Martyn



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barra8


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Cubber wrote:

You're not going to want to get it muddy when it's all done, Jarrah.

It is obviously a true labour of love.

I hope the recent fire doesn't delay your works drastically. Let me know if you want me to send you some of our rain to quench the fires - we've had (and still having) plenty.

Martyn

 I honestly can't wait to see it all muddy wink 

It is a true labour of love so you are correct in saying that wink I have spent over AU $8500.00 now so she should be ''BETTER THAN NEW'' aww Cost more than new anyway noevileye

The fire seems to have gone the other way now & burnt all it can here (i think) so hopefully wo'nt delay my re-build too much. It has been annoying having to blow away all the burnt bits but not much delay so far. The only delay is the triple tree bearings now so i should be back under way shortly biggrin

Thanks for the feedback as it is hard to know what people think & thoughts on things over here

.......................

Jarrah.

 



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TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

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barra8


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I have now installed the carby.

To do this first install the rubber (vulcronized) boot. (i like to use a non hardening sealant like Loctite N3. Aviation around the seal )

Then install carby to the boot but don't push all the way in..

Then fit airbox intake to carby & tighten clamp.

Bolt airbox in (mentioned in previous post).

Tighten front carby clamp.

It should now look something like this...

Except maybe without the gold wink

Not so sure if i like the change i have done to the motor & carb but it may grow on me. If it does'nt i can always change the colours around later.

Still waiting on the steering bearings...please please please arrive mon  smile

.....................

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 22nd of December 2012 02:30:25 AM

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YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

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barra8


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Before installing the swingarm i thought i would upload some pics to help with cable routing/fuel lines ect. I do not have a starter lead yet so this will be updated at a later date.

The drain hole from carby does not seem to have a pipe in the manual but i put one in so the fuel is not dripping on my motor when draining fuel. You should be able to see this from the pics.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next update will be the swingarm installed.

Stay tuned wink

...........

Jarrah.

 


 



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 18th of December 2012 02:26:04 AM

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barra8


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I recieved my triple tree today & had the bearings installed for lack of time & saves effort..More details back in the steering section.

I also had to make some changes to the wiring section as it took me two goes to get it right (i admit it wink) & had tried to make it a little less clustered but have now decided that i will be sticking to the way MR YAMAHA intended (no matter how much i dislike it). I will be making some changes to the frame harness ''cable tied'' points so as not to scratch my frame (that i just painted cry). I also got all the lights/blinkers/brake light/tailight/horn/ect.. up & running so should'nt be long now.

I may beat christmas after all bleh

.................

Jarrah.

 



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TTRfan


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Great progress Jarrah! You must be getting close to getting the wheels on - always a good milestone in a rebuild smile

What are you going to do about graphics?

Brian



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barra8


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TTRfan wrote:

Great progress Jarrah! You must be getting close to getting the wheels on - always a good milestone in a rebuild smile

What are you going to do about graphics?

Brian

 Yeah very close now...just have to spray the bottom steering clamp tommorrow so i can bolt the forks on (when the paint cures:).

I am going to start bolting the swingarm on as i have now installed the steering bearing races wink

I have quite a few stickers as my old mate Steve sent me some aww He rocks! hahaha. Not sure if he is sending me the ''250'' sticker as i have'nt heard from him but if not i will be down a ''250'' sticker. Going to keep it (kinda) factory looking for now wink

................................

Jarrah.



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barra8


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I know i said the next update would be the swingarm installed....It is installed although this will b e in the next post. Gotta keep the suspense wink

This is my lower clamp...still wet & waiting on the top coat (clear)...

Will be spraying clear in 30 mins.

EDITED: TOP COAT ACHIEVED wink...

..........

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 11th of December 2012 12:16:51 AM

__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)

barra8


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2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild started''
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The shocky & linkage is now installed. To do this (because i already had the airbox installed) i slipped it through the right side of the frame. I then maneuvered the Shocky reservour into place (took some carefull tactics) then installed the lower bolt to the linkage. I then maneuvered the shocky into place & installed the top shocky bolt from the left side (took some skikllfull tactics & alot of dropping the washer :). Then once it was installed from the left side with the washer (you have to place the washer against frame mount then install bolt ''tricky'') i fitted the top washer & nut from the right side. Once again i will torque this when the weight is on the bike (to be sure).

This is the bottom linkage...

My bike now looks like this....

..........................

Stay tuned for more updates wink

Jarrah.

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Monday 7th of January 2013 11:40:14 AM

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barra8


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RE: 1999 model TT250-RLC Build ''Rebuild started''
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To install the swingarm is easy...(in my case i had to use a razorblade to take the paint off where it bolts to frame).

Just slide it in...( I had to use gentle persuision)

Then the bolt goes in from the right side & locks into frame.

Then install washer & nut.

I have not torqued the bolt yet because this is best to be done with the wheel on (weight on bike) 

 

Will be fitting the shocky & linkage shortly.

Stay tuned wink

............

Jarrah.



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nikroc


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Im watching and waiting for the battery side install...looking damn fine my man,damn fine.

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Looking good - front forks on and wheels in and you are nearly ready to start her up wink

OOI, what's the orange part showing nearest camera at the top of the shock Jarrah? 



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barra8


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TTRfan wrote:

Looking good - front forks on and wheels in and you are nearly ready to start her up wink

OOI, what's the orange part showing nearest camera at the top of the shock Jarrah? 

 Yeah still down a starter cable but it clicks so alls good wink Could ''boggy'' it but may just wait another week.

The orange part is in the pic is Morey's Bigfoot EP 2 Grease. It is a waterproof lithium based high temp grease that exeeds Tiikens standards by 75 pounds load test wink

Need to wipe the excess off though it squeezed through wink

.............

Jarrah.



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barra8


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I had to fix this rear blinker bracket that i had acquired from Brian. It seems this is a common thing to snap at the same point as my 1999 (really a 2000 model when registered i think?) came with the bracket broken (same side & place). I thought i would upload how i fixed it for others sake.

My first thought was to weld it but i would have had to brace it anyway or it would have broken easily again no

All i did was used an old muffler clamp & bent it on a 90 degree angle....drilled two holes & made one ''lock'' into the broken peice of mount. The picture below should say the rest...

 

This is when fitted to the bike...looks like factory (only with the extra bolt)

The bolt holds the broken locking tab  in place also so it was a successfull repair wink

.............

Jarrah.



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domski1 wrote:

Looking great jarrah. I have noticed in one of your pictures that the throttle cables run up the right side of the bike, mine have been routed on the left and tighten up when in full right lock. Had been scratching my head as to why, now I know!

 Thanks Adam wink The wiring & cable routing can be very confusing & helps if you have nice pics (like above) so you can see where it all fits.

Glad this thread has been usefull already

.............

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 11th of December 2012 09:02:17 PM

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domski1


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Looking great jarrah. I have noticed in one of your pictures that the throttle cables run up the right side of the bike, mine have been routed on the left and tighten up when in full right lock. Had been scratching my head as to why, now I know!

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barra8


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I did both my calipers the other day & thought i'd upload this as it is most important to clean out your calipers (especially if you ride offroad). These are 04 model TTR calipers i bought on ebay that looked nearly brand new. 


It is most important not to take anything more than what i post in this article off unless it is absolutely nessesary!
If you disassemble the brake lines be aware that you will need to clean & flush the brake lines & all parts using metholated spirits (or similar) & replace any parts nessesary (not a bad idea if it's been awhile).
Absolute care has to be taken if you undo the brake line to insure that dust & water ect. does not enter the brake line/caliper or fluid lines. Care must be taken when cleaning!

Remember: Do not push the lever in when the caliper is removed or the piston will push out!


Okay now that all the boring stuff is over time to start...


This is a pic to show all the parts (except i had not removed the caliper bracket at this stage)...


  1. First loosen the brake pins using a 5mm allen key. Note: If these are hard to loosen or look rusty i reccommend spraying with WD40 ( & leave to sit) first. Then using either 5mm socket allen key(or cutting an 5mm allen key) with a breaker bar attatched to loosen the 5mm allen key pins.
  2. Remove bolts using a 12mm spanner. Note: Put a breaker bar over the spanner if need be.
  • Now remove the caliper.

3. Remove the pad pins Note: These are usually hard to remove because of all the dirt ect. I like to fit the 5mm allen key & wiggle it side to side while using outward pressure.

  • Remove brake pads
  • Remove caliper bracket Note: This just pulls out of the rubber boots by hand (if not ceased.
  • Remove pad spring

At this point you can take the piston covers off. Clean & regrease lighty. (i used rubber grease)



4. Inspect pads for wear. Note: The wear limit on these are 1mm

  • Inspect caliper body for cracks or damage. (Not likely)
  • Inspect rubber boot for cracks or damage (highly likely)
  • Inspect caliper bracket (not likely to have damage)
  • Inspect guide pins
  • Inspect pad spring
  • Clean all components in a solvent (metholated spirits or similar) For the brake pad pins i like to use emery paper (or 1200-2000 grit sandpaper)

One of mine had a small hole in the rubber boot which i managed to fix with RTV Ultra black silicone (for now)...

     5. Lubricate the guide pins.

  • The reccommended lubricant is a lithium based grease (i used Moreys Bigfoot EP2 lithium grease) Note: Wheel grease is not reccomended.
  • Make sure any excess grease is wiped off with a clean rag

     6. Install caliper bracket (just pushes in)

    7.Install pad spring.

  • Brake pads
  • Pad pins

You can see how the pad spring should be in the pic below..

Now install the caliper.

  • If the brake pads do not fit over the caliper use a suitable  G-clamp to push the piston back in.

You can bleed the hydraulic system now if you wish but i have never needed to do this for this job.

Job done.

................

Jarrah.

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 16th of December 2012 12:43:13 AM

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barra8


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The other day i had a good lQQk at my wheel bearings...The back were stuffed...On top of this i noticed this big crack right across the rim this will have to be replaced nonodisbeliefnono It looks like going at christmas is out of the question cry I have another back rim on the way but i think christmas will come all too soon hmm

On a lighter note....I have sprayed my front rim with Dupont  Mazda 22V Sunlight silver & most happy with the result. You can't see the sparkles the clear coat from these pics but in the sunlight it is blinding wink 

 

 

.................

Stay tuned wink

.............

Jarrah.


 



-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 16th of December 2012 07:48:18 AM

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barra8


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I fitted the exhuast ect. (although this will be updated later) & got it going yesterday. I re-checked the timing,checked the ''oil check'' bolt & all was good to go. Did an update on the motor section so anyone interested can go back in this thread & see this.

The engine starts like a dream & seems to purr like a kitten...very happy biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

I also got the Tail tidy (I like to call it tidy tail :)  that i bought off Brian clear coated with sparkle...

Still waiting on the steering bearing top cover & a back rim but hopefully here before christmas??

It is getting close to the part where i reveal my secret ''goodies''. I have left clues in this thread (somewhere :) as to what these items are wink

Stay tuned for more updates wink

.......................

Jarrah.



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BM Steve


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Hey Barra, gotta tip my hat to you, the rebuild is epic.

I wouldn't have the patience for it myself, I would rather buy a new one and mod it

Or more to the point keep my old one and not give a damn about the scratches and dirt   biggrin



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 
TTRfan


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Exciting stuff - bit like a good version of Coronation Street biggrin

Regarding the rim cracking, I have had a number of rims do this and they don't get any worse than the one in your pic. They crack at the factory weld as the wheel section is made in a big length and then cut to length, rolled and welded. The important bit of the weld is in the centre of the wheel but, in any case, it shouldn't go pear shaped. It isn't going to go anywhere with a tyre mounted on it wink

Looking forward to the next bit. 

Brian



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Ironhorsend


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Very well done dude!

And here I thought I was anal lol....

Don't make me strip my bike back down again to start painting stuff!

On another note, I'm thinking a valve job might be in my near future.

 

Edit by Brian - please got to Jarrah's new thread here



-- Edited by TTRfan on Wednesday 19th of December 2012 06:53:20 PM

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barra8


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BM Steve wrote:

Hey Barra, gotta tip my hat to you, the rebuild is epic.

I wouldn't have the patience for it myself, I would rather buy a new one and mod it

Or more to the point keep my old one and not give a damn about the scratches and dirt   biggrin

 Hey Steve your back wink 

It has been epic & tests patience & comittment but well rewarding.

It will be so much better than a new bike in my eyes as i built it myself & have made it unique '' with all the sparkle ect ''' so every cent has been well spent wink

It will probably get a few scratches but i don't mind as it is easy to touch up now that i know the colours.......Just have to take some good pics first though smile

...........................................................

TTRfan wrote:

Exciting stuff - bit like a good version of Coronation Street biggrin

Regarding the rim cracking, I have had a number of rims do this and they don't get any worse than the one in your pic. They crack at the factory weld as the wheel section is made in a big length and then cut to length, rolled and welded. The important bit of the weld is in the centre of the wheel but, in any case, it shouldn't go pear shaped. It isn't going to go anywhere with a tyre mounted on it wink

Looking forward to the next bit.

Brian

Hahaha Coronaton sreet (isn't that a drama confuse smile

I was thinking it is where it was joined but not real happy with the state of the rim either ashamed (i'm fussy)

I will mount it if my other rim does not arrive quick enough though smile

..............

Jarrah.



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Ironhorsend


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Wow Jarrah!
Very nice, thorough build!
Looking fresh off the assembly line!

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barra8


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Thanks buddy Great to see feedback on it wink

.................

Jarrah.



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domski1


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Great progress jarrah, looking forward to seeing it on its wheels!
There is that much info in your thread its quite overwhelming really to read through but it will benefit forum members seeking the info for many years to come! Is this your first project thread on a forum or have you more mega threads on other forums??

Adam.

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barra8


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domski1 wrote:

Great progress jarrah, looking forward to seeing it on its wheels!
There is that much info in your thread its quite overwhelming really to read through but it will benefit forum members seeking the info for many years to come! Is this your first project thread on a forum or have you more mega threads on other forums??

Adam.

 Thanks Adam ...i look forward to it also wink

Glad it is a sight worth seeing...Even if it is overwhelming

This is the only forum that i am subscribed to so that's why i try to add as much info as possible (without confusing people)

Cheers for the feedback wink

..........................

Thanks Brian....that's perfect.

Jarrah.



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I did an update on the steering section above

I also made a short vid of me starting my bike.biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Hope this works wink 

Nope..... might have to find another way biggrinbiggrinbiggrin 
..............

Jarrah.


 


 



-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 20th of December 2012 09:46:16 AM

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This is where the video will be once it uploads..... http://youtu.be/sRV5XOWf2qo

 

 

 
Brian can you please delete my two useless posts above?? if it's not too much hassle. Cheers..
..............
Jarrah.
 


-- Edited by barra8 on Friday 28th of December 2012 02:04:53 AM

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Thank you very much for all your efforts Jarrah - a brilliant restoration thread that has gone further than most that I have seen and I look at many forums.

Brian



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barra8


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Sorry to cut this thread short but i don't think that all this was  effort that i went through is appreciated enough by some. I do not want to put any more ''OPINIONS'' into your heads so i think this is the end of the thread! It can't be too hard to put the rest together from here & you get the drift!

 

Just like to say a big thanks to Brian,Trish,Steve,Martyn, & Adam.

Well Barra8 out!

................

Jarrah.



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noeyedear


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Thanks for shareing this with us. and hopefully inspiring some to do and document something similar. keep up the good work . Adrian

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beautiful work

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barra8


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2000 model TT-R250M Build 4PX6 ''Rebuild nearly finished''
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Thanks all for the feedback

......................................................
Jarrah.


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This should explain....Damn it i will have to write it lol.

I do a fair bit off offroading. After say 6mths the lower shocky linkage (upper bracket)   comes loose somehow (even after checking) & damages the thread. It then only takes a torque to spec to strip the alloy thread cry .This time i'm putting loctite ''extra strong'' grade & it should be good. Also have a brand new bracket on the way but the 2008 one pictured in my last post   will arrive much quicker & look much better than my old one (even though i had it re-built it over a year ago). wink 


 

4GY-22219-00-00BRACKET, UPPER

Remember this shocking pic....

That was my first shocky lol

..................

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 29th of December 2012 12:45:30 PM

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barra8


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For anyone wondering...I have updated this thread in quite a few sections. Still to do more sectioning off.

I have bought a 1998 rear shocky as both the ones i have are stripped at the upper mount (looks to be called lower). I also acquired a few other things like rear pegs ect.

This is the new shocky i bought. Should clean up alright...

Should be able to put it all together in a week or so....(even though i said this 6mths ago :)

...............................

Jarrah.



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TTRfan


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barra8 wrote:

I have bought a 1998 rear shocky as both the ones i have are stripped at the upper mount (looks to be called lower). 

 Hi Jarrah. What exactly got stripped on your old shocks?



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TTRfan


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Oh dear! If it helps, the Raid's bracket is steel so I bet that would last you longer wink



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